The bed system used on most A class vans are pretty simplistic. My latest, for example, uses scissor arms at each side operated by 12v linear actuators. Fully down the actuators are stopped by their internal limit switches. Fully up they're each stopped by a microswitch on the top side of the bed. The only "safety" device was a central leather strap with a hole in it for a turnbuckle attached to the bed. That would not support the weight of the bed & lasted only a week before I forgot it when lowering which pulled the turnbuckle through the hole (with no noticeable effect on movement which is why I didn't spot it until it was too late). I've removed the remains on the basis that for the bed to drop from the up position both actuators would have to fail mechanically at the same time (at which point the strap would have failed as well).
Bed is at the front and I don't much need views when lobbing out some zzzz's 
i have not contributed to this thread as all this tecnical stuff is way above my head, but now you are on to leaving the bulkhead in i am in my element , i converted an ambulance this year as you may have seen by my posts on here and we chose to leave the bulkhead in against most peoples advice , and dont regret it for one moment for the reasons you state as well in our case it even leaves you with more space as you dont have to leave space for getting through to the front or turning your seats round , we have the cooker and fridge across ours and it then leaves you with full width further back and you dont have to have a 'corridor ' through to the back.As a fulltimer comfort comes over such niceties as views. There are a number of reasons I choose to have a bulkhead between living and driving.
1) Condensation. Even with the best exterior screens you will still get some condensation in the cab area. Behind my dashboard has rusted badly due to this.
2) Insulation. The cab area is nigh on impossible to insulate to a good enough standard.
3) Security. I like having the hab area seriously secure separately from the cab area. If someone smashes the side window I don't want them being able to access my living area without a fight.
4) lighting when off griding. If I am parked in a car park overnight, I want to be able to make the cab area appear to be unoccupied so as not to attract unwanted attention. Putting silver screens up and curtains tends to attract that attention. Personal experience on that one.
But for me the biggest one is heating/insulation. Much easier if it is separate. As I will have windows on the back and sides and the lounge area is at the back I will be pointing that end at the good views anyway
Wasn't so much the view (a bonus) as use of the space for seating. However I'd certainly accept better insulation as a good reason for a van conversion if not so much an A class. A class side insulation, door or not, is as good as the rest of the van & double glazed side windows are an option. An insulated roller blind solves the windscreen problem at night. I completely agree about insulation in a coach built. And I accept the security concerns especially for full timing.
I think you've got your mm and cm mixed up there Grom!
Would you like a new tape measure for Christmas???? 
You are of course correct. I put it down to me posting just before bed after 20 hours of being awakeI think you've got your mm and cm mixed up there Grom!
Hello, I'm looking to build my 1st #vanlife and I'm unsure where the 2nd of 2 drive bars is? If anyone has more info on his lifting bed, please let me know. I looked at the Jack type lift and also a manual hydraulic bar lift, so still deciding on the best bed type and lifting type.
There is only 1 drive bar. It has a double drum at each end. If you look at the image you can see the inner drum that has the webbing for the one it is closest to. Then the outside drum has webbing that goes all the way under the bed to the other side.
You're going to have a lot more weight than an empty top box though and it's going to be in a moving vehicle. If it was quick to raise and lower it might be worth lowering it for travel.Interesting...
I'm considering using one of those roof box lifters you get for garages etc.
Possibly inverting it so the mechanism is in the bed frame rather than in the ceiling.
I'm guessing the winch could be motorised fairly easily if desired but I don't mind the idea of it being manual.
Just looked at a couple of adverts one said 30 kg the other 40. You could do something similar with pulleys designed for boat use and a block and tackle to lift rather than a drum. We're in the process of making something similar for a man overboard winch if one of us takes a dip you need to get out of the north sea fast!Interesting...
I'm considering using one of those roof box lifters you get for garages etc.
Possibly inverting it so the mechanism is in the bed frame rather than in the ceiling.
I'm guessing the winch could be motorised fairly easily if desired but I don't mind the idea of it being manual.
That is the same as the design I linked except it uses ropes rather than seat belt webbing?Interesting...
I'm considering using one of those roof box lifters you get for garages etc.
Possibly inverting it so the mechanism is in the bed frame rather than in the ceiling.
I'm guessing the winch could be motorised fairly easily if desired but I don't mind the idea of it being manual.
Look closely, the one I showed does do all 4 corners.
Join us or log in to post a reply.
To join in you must be a member of MotorhomeFun
Join MotorhomeFun
Join us, it quick and easy!
Log in
Already a member? Log in here.
