LOL ! Northern speke and technology ! Serves me right !What we call flat is actually 50% charge still so take one at 50% and one at 100% and balance them out you get two at 75%.
Martin
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LOL ! Northern speke and technology ! Serves me right !What we call flat is actually 50% charge still so take one at 50% and one at 100% and balance them out you get two at 75%.
Martin
the inverter will also consume current whilst charging as will the charger itself and at some point the inverter and charger will not be receiving enough supply from the battery to continue to charge.
Would this do the job then?
So would would the bottom one actually charge as well as maintain when batteries topped up?There is this one but I still dont think its big enough.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30w-Sola...943815&hash=item4b0fb8e8e9:g:1FkAAOSwsB9WAHC4
This could be a better proposition.
I have a 100 watt folding panel from Photonicuniverse. I connect it to the engine battery, because this is the one feeding my Cat1 alarm. I also have a Sterling 2 amp battery maintainer between the engine and leisure batteries. The solar panel faces south and unlike a roof mounted one is angled to get the best light. The sysrem has been working well for the last couple of years keeping all batteries topped up. A smaller panel I had previously put up internally on the dash board did not keep up with demand.So would would the bottom one actually charge as well as maintain when batteries topped up?
Thanks for this but I do not need any of this I was just questioning the sense of charging a battery this way, It's pointless. If one is going to bring out a fully charged battery to a storage location where there is a flat battery in a motorhome it's obvious to me a straight swap is the answer. Attaching to an inverter then a charger to charge the flat battery is madness.The point of using a movable battery/inverter/charger combination to charge a fixed battery is that the fixed battery ends up completely fully charged. On a CTEK charger a green LED shows that the charging is complete and it's switched to trickle charge (maintenance) mode.
If the fixed battery is very low, the movable battery will run out of charge before the fixed battery is charged. You then have to take the movable battery back home to charge it up again, and come back to repeat the process.
If it's a real effort to travel to the storage place then maybe this method is not for you. I used it when I was working away, and I was allowed to use the company car park to store the MH. I could easily visit it any day, and transport a battery to and from my flat. Another time I used it was when the MH was parked in a common parking area over the road from my flat.
It's maybe not worth buying a spare battery, charger and inverter just to do this. But if you already have them, it's just a matter of connecting them together.
and its Chinese so don't have much confidence in the quality of the parts, but that's a different thread altogether.
Attaching to an inverter then a charger to charge the flat battery is madness.
You can use another charger with an Electroblock 29, I imagine others models are similar but no harm in checking. This is the advice I got from Schaudt:
the best would be to mount the sterling charger directly to the battery you like to charge.
The mains connection please leave at the EBL. Just remove the 20A fuse at the EBL´ s front side. This is the fuse “internal charger” (internes Ladegerät).
Then the indication light at the panel will shine when the 230V is there and the starter battery will get a fload charging. The connection to the leisure battery is cut.
Best Regards
Udo.
What Udo was saying is that you can leave the battery connected to the Elektroblock, so that it continues to distribute the 12v as normal but that you can disconnect the charging circuit by simply removing the fuse.In other words "disconnect/remove the batteries from the Elektroblock"
Where is your source tom support that statement please! I am fully aware that modern intelligent chargers can be left indefinitely connected and switched on without causing any damage to batteries. This is in writing in the user instructions for CTEK chargers and Sargent chargers to name two. I'm certain there are many others who will also have this in their user instructions.But you also say that these quite new batteries were kept topped up, by the previous owner, using EHU. Topping up on EHU on a regular basis is fine but, leaving them permanently on EHU may well have damaged them. You should not leave a MH connected to EHU, when not in regular use.
I
Have you considered (as a means of getting sufficient power into a flat cab battery to start the engine) Connecting the pos terminal from one of your leisure batteries to the pos terminal of your cab battery. It may take 30 minutes or so to transfer sufficient power to start the engine but is an easy fix.On the face of it, it does sound a trifle hare-brained. Not the first time I've had comments like that.
I have four 100Ah batteries, plus a starter battery. To swap the starter battery I have to remove the alarm (thanks to a previous owner) and awkwardly lift a heavy battery at armslength. Then refit the alarm and re-enter the radio code. I can transport one battery strapped to the footwell of my scooter.
Visiting it once a month there was enough charge in one battery to top up the other three leisure batteries and the starter battery. As I said, it was easy for me to visit the storage place any day, this may not work for others. It's not ideal. Since it was outdoors and in the sun I changed to using small solar panels on the dash to keep the batteries charged. But indoors or under trees it's back to the inverter/charger madness.
I searched for a device like a Batterymaster or B2B that will charge a fixed battery from a movable battery without using an inverter, but can't find one. Suggestions gratefully accepted, as long as it fully charges the fixed battery from the partly charged movable battery.
Where is your source tom support that statement please! I am fully aware that modern intelligent chargers can be left indefinitely connected and switched on without causing any damage to batteries. This is in writing in the user instructions for CTEK chargers and Sargent chargers to name two. I'm certain there are many others who will also have this in their user instructions.
OK understand where your coming from ! Whilst ' aandcaravanservice' may be reputable repair specialist, his/their knowledge is not greater than those professional bodies who design and manufacture intelligent chargers and many of theses have been installed in a wide variety of motorhomes for some time now. It is perfectly safe to leave a motorhome connected to a EHU and it's charger left alone to maintain batteries. If anyone is saying anything differently, they are simply wrong.Follow the link that I gave and at the top of the page select "EHU Full Time Yes or No". If I understand CTEK chargers correctly(?) they would be connected directly to the batteries and do control the level of charge to avoid cooking the batteries. That's different to EHU through the MH's normal charging system. Hope this helps?
OK understand where your coming from ! Whilst ' aandcaravanservice' may be reputable repair specialist, his/their knowledge is not greater than those professional bodies who design and manufacture intelligent chargers and many of theses have been installed in a wide variety of motorhomes for some time now. It is perfectly safe to leave a motorhome connected to a EHU and it's charger left alone to maintain batteries. If anyone is saying anything differently, they are simply wrong.
Have you considered (as a means of getting sufficient power into a flat cab battery to start the engine) Connecting the pos terminal from one of your leisure batteries to the pos terminal of your cab battery.
To swap the starter battery I have to remove the alarm (thanks to a previous owner) and awkwardly lift a heavy battery at armslength. Then refit the alarm and re-enter the radio code.