Kitchen tap leak

[3crispies]

We have manufacturers crimp fit ear clamps on tap and dealer fit jubilee on outside shower, we have a leak between tap and worktop so assuming there is a washer under. Have doubled pipe to stop hot water from leaking as we have no isolation valves locally. Last pic is isolating valves but appears to be dead end as its teed off run to kitchen. Going away in a few days so need a better fix.
Tia

 

[62272]

Is the leak coming from one of the push fit tee junctions? It could be a seal that has failed. or have you identified it as the pipe connection with the clips?

it looks like the water drips are further up than these junctions, where the pipes are crimped with the zip tie perhaps?

 

[3crispies]

Seems to be coming from the top of the pipes where they connect onto tap, so either it's loose where ear clamp is or there is a leaky washer

 

[DBK]

You will need to locate the leak. Try drying the pipes with kitchen paper and then, with a dry bit of paper, touch the various joints until you find one which wets the paper.

Until you can locate the source I don't anyone can offer much advice.

 

[3crispies]

You will need to locate the leak. Try drying the pipes with kitchen paper and then, with a dry bit of paper, touch the various joints until you find one which wets the paper.

Until you can locate the source I don't anyone can offer much advice.

Totally agree, my question was is there a washer on the tap body as it leaks where base meets the worktop and doesn't appear to be leaking but as mentioned will try the paper trick much appreciated

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[DBK]

Totally agree, my question was is there a washer on the tap body as it leaks where base meets the worktop and doesn't appear to be leaking but as mentioned will try the paper trick much appreciated

My experience of kitchen taps is if it is leaking from some sort of internal fault it won't be easily repaired. We had one which leaked from around the base and it turned out the body of the tap had cracked and a new tap was required.

You haven't shown the tap but if it's one with ceramic discs then it may need to be replaced.

 

[donkey]

Could we have a photo of the tap please?

Geoff

 

[Rich-H]

In the last photo, I think they are drain valves, so with the water pump off you should be able to drain the pipes down (water comes out under the van).

 

[3crispies]

Apologies only have original picture when we bought it and had to zoom in. It was leaking on top of worktop where highlighted so assuming it's internal.

 

[3crispies]

My experience of kitchen taps is if it is leaking from some sort of internal fault it won't be easily repaired. We had one which leaked from around the base and it turned out the body of the tap had cracked and a new tap was required.

You haven't shown the tap but if it's one with ceramic discs then it may need to be replaced.

Thanks again

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[62272]

It looks similar to my kitchen pillar tap. The latest pic and symptom provides more clarity.

I would guess (having serviced my tap in the last week) is that the lower seal within the tap column is failing.

Questions:

Do you have a pressurised system (i.e. Pump activated when a tap is turned on - i.e. Not by a microswitch within the tap lever mechanism), so that a drop in pressure on the pump outlet causes the pump to come on. Or do you have a micro-switched activated pump?

Regarding the leak, is any seepage coming out of the tap spout, or is it just pooling at the base of the pillar?

Does it only leak when the tap is activated - i.e. if you dry the base off fully, then leave it for an hour does any water pool? Or only when the tap is activating?

It is likely that your column tap has two rubber ‘o’ring seals, one set slightly beneath the spout, and one just above (around the inner pillar column). This allows water (hot and/or cold) to enter the space between the two seals and pour out the spout when you activate the lever.

This arrangement allows the pillar tap to be rotated to position the spout.

If the bottom of the two ’o’ rings is failing then when activated the water will weep, or leak out of the seal and find its way through the unsealed gap at the base (as per your symptom).

If the leak is occurring when the tap is not in use, then it is likely that you have a pressurised system and the main tap lever seal is failing in addition to the bottom pillar seal, otherwise the tap would simply drip out of the spout.

There is just one more thing it could be, if it happens when the lever is activated, there is a seal which is half way between the spout and the main pillar which could have failed, although personally I would put money on the lower pillar ‘o’ ring failing.

Be aware that whilst you can buy general replacement ‘o’ ring kits from plumbers merchants, I have found that the diameter of the rubber (not just the O ring size) can be critical as to whether it will work. Use silcone grease on the inner surface of the outer pillar body, and the seals. It could be that a bit of silicone may sort it out, if its become dry.

These are just my thoughts having service a number of taps, but I am not an expert!

 

[3crispies]

It looks similar to my kitchen pillar tap. The latest pic and symptom provides more clarity.

I would guess (having serviced my tap in the last week) is that the lower seal within the tap column is failing.

Questions:

Do you have a pressurised system (i.e. Pump activated when a tap is turned on - i.e. Not by a microswitch within the tap lever mechanism), so that a drop in pressure on the pump outlet causes the pump to come on. Or do you have a micro-switched activated pump?

Regarding the leak, is any seepage coming out of the tap spout, or is it just pooling at the base of the pillar?

Does it only leak when the tap is activated - i.e. if you dry the base off fully, then leave it for an hour does any water pool? Or only when the tap is activating?

It is likely that your column tap has two rubber ‘o’ring seals, one set slightly beneath the spout, and one just above (around the inner pillar column). This allows water (hot and/or cold) to enter the space between the two seals and pour out the spout when you activate the lever.

This arrangement allows the pillar tap to be rotated to position the spout.

If the bottom of the two ’o’ rings is failing then when activated the water will weep, or leak out of the seal and find its way through the unsealed gap at the base (as per your symptom).

If the leak is occurring when the tap is not in use, then it is likely that you have a pressurised system and the main tap lever seal is failing in addition to the bottom pillar seal, otherwise the tap would simply drip out of the spout.

There is just one more thing it could be, if it happens when the lever is activated, there is a seal which is half way between the spout and the main pillar which could have failed, although personally I would put money on the lower pillar ‘o’ ring failing.

Be aware that whilst you can buy general replacement ‘o’ ring kits from plumbers merchants, I have found that the diameter of the rubber (not just the O ring size) can be critical as to whether it will work. Use silcone grease on the inner surface of the outer pillar body, and the seals. It could be that a bit of silicone may sort it out, if its become dry.

These are just my thoughts having service a number of taps, but I am not an expert!

thanks for detailed reply pump operates on opening of tap and leaked all the time, have isolated it as it was dripping inside of underneath cupboard so isolated it with a cable ties as thats all I had when away. Was hoping I could source O ring before it is taken apart.

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

Wiensberg. Probably a cartridge then, and that will be the lower seals,[ see photo below]. If it's the same as our Sunlight, [ highly probable] you can buy a factory replacement £30.00, or the Screwfix alternative at £4.50.
Mike.