Just use varnish or is there something better?

[kevenh]

I look after most motorhome maintenance but mrskevemh thinks there’s some painting to do.

the first pic is showing the woodwork our sink is recessed into.
The second is our main table.
Both need some TLC
Maybe with a varnish coat.
But mrskeveh wonders if the sink area needs a specific product.

Does a product for that wet area exist?

 

[almichie]

Make sure you don’t use water based - either satin or gloss - it won’t last 5 minutes and will discolour with any water on the surface.

 

[Gellyneck]

That's a good point - I have in the past used Ronseal Diamond hard varnish on some indoor shelves that went on really well and had a really 'hard' finish which suited the look I was after - but that was the old 'pollute the world' formula which I don't think you can get anymore.

I see Rust-Oleum gets a good review but is a tad pricey £54 for a quart on Amazon! I'll only used a tiny amount .................!

I used Ronseal Diamond on our beech floor in the kitchen many years ago and it was very good so when it came around to doing it again about 3-4 years ago like a stoopit mullet just went out and got the same not realising it had changed from solvent based! Guess what, needs doing again!

 

[Abacist]

If you use varnish the first coat needs to be well thinned so that it is thin enough to be absorbed into the wood to seal it or it will look awful. It takes a lot of thin coats of varnish to make it look good and perform a good seal and obey the timing of re-coating instructions or you have to sand down with wet and dry paper for a smooth finish. The first few coats tend to raise the grain of the wood which needs to be sanded down As well!

Another Wayfarer owner in a previous life though glass fibre with mahogany wood seats and fittings from Moores at Wroxham - W1242 1965 vintage!

 

[Gellyneck]

Have a look at a 2 part floor varnish. (If u can still get it)
Very hard wearing but not cheap.

This stuff is the bees knees if you want to go to the effort!

Morrells | induro® Acid-Catalyst Flooring Lacquer

A quick drying, low odour, high build acid-catalyst lacquer designed for application to wooden flooring by mohair roller, big-foot applicator or T-bar.

www.morrells.co.uk

A number of manufacturers still do two part water based varnish.

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[deleted79651]

I look after most motorhome maintenance but mrskevemh thinks there’s some painting to do.
View attachment 543780

View attachment 543781
the first pic is showing the woodwork our sink is recessed into.
The second is our main table.
Both need some TLC
Maybe with a varnish coat.
But mrskeveh wonders if the sink area needs a specific product.

Does a product for that wet area exist?

Cheapest option is to tell Mrs H that you've gone all French, and are leaving it as is, because it's chabby chic, or, better still, 'un peu vetuste'. All of friends will want the same if you add that it's in keeping with the post COVID style for this season ...

I could have been an Estate Agent ...

Steve

 

[Stag man]

You have 2 completely different problems to deal with.
Starting with the hardest (the sink)
1. remove the drainer
2. sand off to remove old sealant, by hand
3. treat with oxalic acid to remove discolouration (as per recommendation by Geo)
4. re-coat with danish oil ( Dux is spot on)
5. reassemble
Then the table
1. sand to base wood everywhere
2. danish oil or varnish
3. drying time
4. open bottle

 

[DuxDeluxe]

You have 2 completely different problems to deal with.
Starting with the hardest (the sink)
1. remove the drainer
2. sand off to remove old sealant, by hand
3. treat with oxalic acid to remove discolouration (as per recommendation by Geo)
4. re-coat with danish oil ( Dux is spot on)
5. reassemble
Then the table
1. sand to base wood everywhere
2. danish oil or varnish
3. drying time
4. open bottle

…..and for perfect results or even simply results, always make sure that No.4 is always last

 

[DuxDeluxe]

If you use varnish the first coat needs to be well thinned so that it is thin enough to be absorbed into the wood to seal it or it will look awful. It takes a lot of thin coats of varnish to make it look good and perform a good seal and obey the timing of re-coating instructions or you have to sand down with wet and dry paper for a smooth finish. The first few coats tend to raise the grain of the wood which needs to be sanded down As well!

Another Wayfarer owner in a previous life though glass fibre with mahogany wood seats and fittings from Moores at Wroxham - W1242 1965 vintage!

Yep… I was proud of W33. Still original solid mahogany CB case and brass eyes in the original side decks for the row locks. On minimum weight with max 7kg of correctors it was still a very fast boat (by waybarge standards) when I sold her. Still racing on the circuit

 

[Puddleduck]

I'm glad someone asked this question - I need to do this job on my Hymer sink surround which I think is made up of a thick piece of ply with top made of some sort of covering. The ply edges are in good condition but I think could do with a refresh.

I'm drawn to Ronseal having used their products in the past. Any other good manufacturers to consider?

International

I worked for them many many years ago

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[rangi]

Sand the old stuff off, use 80 grit at first, then 120 grit, to get a really good finish after applying the first of an oil based varnish , wait at least a week, them either give the final sand with wire wool. or, one of those green fabric kitchen scourers, then two coats of your original stuff. On no account use any water based stuff.

IF! you really want a good lasting finish , and if you can get hold of it, tiz as rear as hens teeth, get some SHELLAC, it should come in a fine flake base, mix with meths, The beauty of Shellac is, you can apply several coats in a day . tiz very quick drying, and ! is as tough as Kelver Armour plating .

Problems tho! you can't put anything over the top of it, ie , another paint/varnish/whatever!

 

[Eddiex]

My sink ...............................being some sort of ply construction, and having read some of the comments, I'm thinking maybe a yatch varnish might be better to waterproof the exposed wood??

 

[Gellyneck]

My sink ...............................being some sort of ply construction, and having read some of the comments, I'm thinking maybe a yatch varnish might be better to waterproof the exposed wood??

You might also want to consider a "matching" Formica (or similar) strip cut to width and adhered with a waterproof contact adhesive? It would take away the "raw edge of the plywood.

 

[TDub49]

+2 for Danish oil and go easy on the sanding around the sink, it's likely that the wood finish is a pretty thin veneer. You can keep the dish oil finish topped up yearly with much less hassle than dealing with varnish. Oxalic acid will help lighten the water stain but don't expect perfection there. Try buying the oxalic as a powder from your local chemist or on eBay - way cheaper than the commercial products containing it and just as effective.

 

[deleted79651]

You might also want to consider a "matching" Formica (or similar) strip cut to width and adhered with a waterproof contact adhesive? It would take away the "raw edge of the plywood.

Or an aluminium profile attached with silicone glue made by Sika Group as 'Colle Mastic' in France] to match the hob surround and complement the worktop colour.Very Lawrence Llewellyn Bowen, flashing my billowing cuffs beneath my velvet jacket ...

Steve

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[Stag man]

As an afterthought, finally after you have sanded, rubbed, treated, stuck and/or varnished, seal the bottom edge with a clear silicon mastic.
Just a bead around the bottom edge should be enough to stop any further water penetration screwing up your good work.
You should find that a wet pinkie (licked) will nicely smooth the newly placed bead to a neat convex radius, earning you copious Brownie Points.
After that, eat out and avoid washing up….
Just sayin

 

[Eddiex]

My sink ...............................being some sort of ply construction, and having read some of the comments, I'm thinking maybe a yatch varnish might be better to waterproof the exposed wood??

View attachment 544521

Having searched elsewhere I have been told that my van sink top is made from marine ply. I assume that, whilst the vehicle is 18 years old and has been 'used' as intended, I do not have any delaminating of the plywood top. It seems that a lot of owners of these model Hymers with the same kitchen have had theirs for longer that me and also have not had any issues with water ingress or damage. Maybe I'm overthinking it ................ but I'm always looking for jobs/improvements to do!!

Thanks for the replies - just got to decide now which of your recommended products to use.............. apologies to the OP for hi jacking his original thread!!

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

My sink ...............................being some sort of ply construction, and having read some of the comments, I'm thinking maybe a yatch varnish might be better to waterproof the exposed wood??

View attachment 544521

Is that the finished edge, with the sink sitting below the worktop ?If so, well I've never seen such an arrangement, well not since the demise of the old clip on draining boards for a "Belfast Sink".
Mike