CamperLife2024
Free Member
- Jun 1, 2024
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- Funster No
- 103,535
- MH
- Adria Sunliving
My panel will not work and I have been told the electrics are messed up.
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I left big gaps in mine so the rain can blow through and dry outDoes the conduit need to be sealed off it is only to stop the wire’s flapping about? More important that the cable is sealed where it goes into the van,
I know why some use it but it’s not the proper job.The conduit is used to stop the cable from flapping about on the roof and to have a better cosmetic look, so doesn't need to be water tight.
The gland looks like this type as far as I can tell from the pic same as on our Frankia.
View attachment 903980
What is the proper job then?I know why some use it but it’s not the proper job.
The top pic for a start!!Just sent some pics below can you see them?View attachment 903856View attachment 903857View attachment 903858View attachment 903859View attachment 903861
Re W255H - I have has this when the Hot water has been heating on 240v and the EHU has been disconnected. Reconnect to EHU or switch Hot water to off. Should fix it
I think there are a few on this thread but not necessarily the OPI think this is a wind up merchant.
Or Yesterday!!Take it back right now!
Ah, I have never seen that one before. Looks pretty smart. Although seems like it may hold water in if not fully sealed at the entrance.The conduit is used to stop the cable from flapping about on the roof and to have a better cosmetic look, so doesn't need to be water tight.
The gland looks like this type as far as I can tell from the pic same as on our Frankia.
View attachment 903980
First for me as well a couple of weeks ago it's used on teleco satellite's.Ah, I have never seen that one before. Looks pretty smart. Although seems like it may hold water in if not fully sealed at the entrance.
I think they had a fault code showing on the Truma panel which will most likely reset easily, then they have obviously looked on the roof and seen that a bit of cable trunking isn’t sealed at its end, some people think this is an issue but I am not convinced personally although I would want it open at both ends so it doesn’t fill with waterI am trying to work out what the issue is. Has anyone worked out what is being asked
You are right but such shoddy workmanship should not be accepted. Was the SP factory fitted or an extra? If an after market extra please publish who fitted it as they need avoiding like the plague! The Truma error message is common when no power to the unit. As many have suggested another run through of how things work at the dealer might help.Does the conduit need to be sealed off it is only to stop the wire’s flapping about? More important that the cable is sealed where it goes into the van,
Ah well, say no more, usual shoddy workmanship from Eddie and his offspring!Our after market solar panel was fitted with trunking like that by Vanbitz, to give a neat finish to the cable reaching over to the “electrickery” cuboard. Would not have been possible to feed it directly to inside because of internal washroom etc under the solar panel.
View attachment 904192
AgreedI think they had a fault code showing on the Truma panel which will most likely reset easily, then they have obviously looked on the roof and seen that a bit of cable trunking isn’t sealed at its end, some people think this is an issue but I am not convinced personally although I would want it open at both ends so it doesn’t fill with water
I suppose it's understandable, you hear 'combi boiler' and assume it's like your mains gas combi boiler at home, until you learn otherwise!You are right but such shoddy workmanship should not be accepted. Was the SP factory fitted or an extra? If an after market extra please publish who fitted it as they need avoiding like the plague! The Truma error message is common when no power to the unit. As many have suggested another run through of how things work at the dealer might help.
On a different tack we were camped at Stratford racecourse in our Autotrail Apache and there was another one there. The guy was having that same problem and asked me to show him how it worked. Having done so his wife was complaining that it was still faulty as there was no hot water. You need to give it time to warm up I advised. Oh no she said it’s instant, it’s a combi boiler and she was insistent it was faulty. Be patient, give it 40 mins or so and try it again I advised. The guy came over a while later and said everything was tickety boo. Whether the salesman had wrongly advised them or they had misheard at the handover?? She was convinced the second she turned the tap on it should have been hot and initially would have bet the vehicle in it!
Pictures are useless without full information. Make model etchJust sent some pics below can you see them?View attachment 903856View attachment 903857View attachment 903858View attachment 903859View attachment 903861
Hi, the sealant should be an easy fix. The panel looks like the boiler needs resetting which is done by pushing a little switch in that is on the boiler. It’s only easy if you know where on the boiler it is and how to get to it. On ours it’s next to a plastic cover which protects the boiler electric terminals. I would send you a photo but currently in Toronto and Motorhome is at home in our garage.My panel will not work and I have been told the electrics are messed up.
The pictures were a bit misleading to me. I thought the cable entry box was part of the vehicle and nothing to do with the cables.Agreed
So far you seem the only other non hysterical commenter on this thread .
OK so the sealant is a little untidy but let's be honest the stuff is a nightmare to work with. The conduit doesn't need to be sealed up , the gland is the important bit. I've used that conduit on several vans with no issues . It does the job well.
As for the electrics it's most likely operator error as the op sounds like a newbie to me.