Jane & Rog’s Balkans Tour

[Jane And Rog]

I’m enjoying this too - yes Morocco is still higher on the list but Albania is now definitely on the list - which it wasn’t before. Scenery amazing but weather a bit dubious!
I have a handful (or fewer) of posts I look out for and check in with every day and yours is one of them. Please don’t stop (or go over to journal format!).

I think it’s just the weird weather pattern all over southern Europe. Everyone here is saying they’ve had masses more rain than usual. Just our luck not to stay at home as the weather changed - we’d had a dreadful spring and fancied some sun!

 

[Dutch 68]

Keep going , best travel thread atm

 

[Rogerwyn]

well written and informative I dont post regularly but have enjoyed another great adventure by your selfs, you have a better following on here than Hamstreet as when I met up with Benson in the beginning of May I asked him regards your selfs Jan/ Rog, who he said but he does have the attention span of a goldfish

 

[Jane And Rog]

well written and informative I dont post regularly but have enjoyed another great adventure by your selfs, you have a better following on here than Hamstreet as when I met up with Benson in the beginning of May I asked him regards your selfs Jan/ Rog, who he said but he does have the attention span of a goldfish

Tell him he refused to take on our garden

 

[Rogerwyn]

Tell him he refused to take on our garden

Get Rog to punch him and tell him it’s a Rog thing

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[Riverbankannie]

By the way, are people enjoying this blog?

yes, yes, yes
I love your writing, please never stop.

 

[Mikey RV]

Just keep posting, really enjoy your adventures and appreciate the time you put in to post and photos.

 

[HugoBNB]

Map showing the campsite, castle & restaurant.

View attachment 767285

By the way, are people enjoying this blog? It doesn’t feel as engaged as Morocco - either Albania is less exciting, more people are off on their own adventures, or we’re not very funny or interesting these days. Probably the latter! I could always leave it and the few who are reading can just sign up to emails from our blog.

We sure are! Keep up the blogging. We are going to be tracing your footsteps next year. Not as far as Albania, but a good bit of it.
BTW. Are you related to Alan Wicker?
All the best! BnB

 

[Jane And Rog]

We sure are! Keep up the blogging. We are going to be tracing your footsteps next year. Not as far as Albania, but a good bit of it.
BTW. Are you related to Alan Wicker?
All the best! BnB

My Dad’s called Alan but it ends there!

 

[Poms_from_Adelaide]

Please keep posting - I look forward to your updates every day and it's the only thing keeping me (sort of) sane at the moment!

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[Jane And Rog]

We had intended another night on the beach and got within a few km of the site west of Durres we got cold feet, read the reviews more closely and scarpered inland.
We wound up at a tiny campsite called Camping Apollonia (///mediating.toughen.flirting ) named for and near the Greco Roman ruins of Apollonia.

The route over was uneventful except for one slip road onto the SH14 which handily had a couple of massive unmarked sleeping policemen just as you’re getting up speed. Denby bounced over them with a menacing crash from the hold.
When we arrived at CampApollo I surveyed the damage. Regular readers will remember running repairs to our crappy plastic B&Q drawers in Morocco. This was much more serious. The entire frame had shattered. Cracked drawers were a secondary issue.

Still, never underestimate the power of duct tape.

After a couple of hours and a whole roll of tape we were back in business. I’m not sure how well they will hold up under driving but at least we felt able to explore Apollonia.

Appalonia was founded in 600 BCE by Corinthians but flourished as an academic centre under Roman rule in the 2C BCE. The city itself is mainly ruins excavated by the French in the 20s. It’s not much to look at as a town but the Albanian government have let it become park like with trees for shade, meadows for chasing tortoises and a bar for beer.

1000 years after the Romans lost interest because an earthquake diverted the river away from Apollonian the site was used as a monastery. The frescoes in the refectory remain and across the courtyard is the richly iconicified church. Like a scene from a horror film where they discover the murder’s lair, all the eyes have been scrubbed out. This was the work later pilgrims who made a cure all potion from the paint!

Dinner was a BBQ with a lovely sunset lighting the Apollonian hills.

 

[Langtoftlad]

got within a few km of the site west of Durres we got cold feet

Why the cold feet?
The dodgy route or the dodgy site reviews?

 

[Miggs]

I'm reading this whilst sitting on a broken camping chair which I have been inspired to repair with duct tape. Please don't stop!

 

[Viennese]

I am enjoying your thread. There are lots of Albanians in Oxford - one cleans my van for me. I always enjoy telling them that in the 1960s my sister had a boyfriend who was the nephew of the last king of Albania King Zog. Alex Zogu was studying textiles at Huddersfield Tech! King Zog was removed when Mussolini invaded Albania, and his son then became 'King'. Alex (Skender) was his cousin and is now heir to the throne!!.

 

[weekenders]

Map showing the campsite, castle & restaurant.

View attachment 767285

By the way, are people enjoying this blog? It doesn’t feel as engaged as Morocco - either Albania is less exciting, more people are off on their own adventures, or we’re not very funny or interesting these days. Probably the latter! I could always leave it and the few who are reading can just sign up to emails from our blog.

Always read your blogs with interest

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[Jo662]

By the way, are people enjoying this blog?

Im really enjoying your travel thread.Mainly to see places I may/will never visit in our motorhome. At least not until I downsize to a PVC.
I will make more of an effort to engage on your thread,as I do understand it’s nice for you to see some reactions.

 

[Jane And Rog]

By the way, are people enjoying this blog?

Im really enjoying your travel thread.Mainly to see places I may/will never visit in our motorhome. At least not until I downsize to a PVC.
I will make more of an effort to engage on your thread,as I do understand it’s nice for you to see some reactions.

Yes, exactly. I think in Morocco people were able to help with advice (as a lot went wrong for us) - but it’s great to hear from people anyway as otherwise it feels like shouting into the void.

 

[chaser]

Yes, exactly. I think in Morocco people were able to help with advice (as a lot went wrong for us) - but it’s great to hear from people anyway as otherwise it feels like shouting into the void.

Always read read your posts but not a lot I can add as you have covered it all and not having been can't express much of an opinion but do add likes when I have read them so you know we are still here.

 

[3DOM]

Keep posting, many on here so look forward to following
your trip, myself included.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Why the cold feet?
The dodgy route or the dodgy site reviews?

I think is was the approach road and surroundings made made us check the reviews and read them with a more critical eye.

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[Jane And Rog]

There are lots of Albanians in Oxford - one cleans my van for me.

I’m not sure if it’s surprising or not but there are loads of car washes in Albania. Far more than in the uk. We assume they’re staffed by Albanians too.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Map showing the campsite, castle & restaurant.

View attachment 767285

By the way, are people enjoying this blog? It doesn’t feel as engaged as Morocco - either Albania is less exciting, more people are off on their own adventures, or we’re not very funny or interesting these days. Probably the latter! I could always leave it and the few who are reading can just sign up to emails from our blog.

Loving it, keep going please

 

[Rogerwyn]

We had intended another night on the beach and got within a few km of the site west of Durres we got cold feet, read the reviews more closely and scarpered inland.
We wound up at a tiny campsite called Camping Apollonia (///mediating.toughen.flirting ) named for and near the Greco Roman ruins of Apollonia.

View attachment 767815

The route over was uneventful except for one slip road onto the SH14 which handily had a couple of massive unmarked sleeping policemen just as you’re getting up speed. Denby bounced over them with a menacing crash from the hold.
When we arrived at CampApollo I surveyed the damage. Regular readers will remember running repairs to our crappy plastic B&Q drawers in Morocco. This was much more serious. The entire frame had shattered. Cracked drawers were a secondary issue.

View attachment 767816

Still, never underestimate the power of duct tape.

View attachment 767817

After a couple of hours and a whole roll of tape we were back in business. I’m not sure how well they will hold up under driving but at least we felt able to explore Apollonia.

View attachment 767820

Appalonia was founded in 600 BCE by Corinthians but flourished as an academic centre under Roman rule in the 2C BCE. The city itself is mainly ruins excavated by the French in the 20s. It’s not much to look at as a town but the Albanian government have let it become park like with trees for shade, meadows for chasing tortoises and a bar for beer.

View attachment 767821
View attachment 767823
1000 years after the Romans lost interest because an earthquake diverted the river away from Apollonian the site was used as a monastery. The frescoes in the refectory remain and across the courtyard is the richly iconicified church. Like a scene from a horror film where they discover the murder’s lair, all the eyes have been scrubbed out. This was the work later pilgrims who made a cure all potion from the paint!

View attachment 767822

Dinner was a BBQ with a lovely sunset lighting the Apollonian hills.

View attachment 767824

That kept Rog busy for a while

 

[jockaneezer]

They're very enterprising these Albanians, we had three here two weeks ago who were growing weed in the old Olivetti typewriter place in town !

 

[mackeellan]

Map showing the campsite, castle & restaurant.

View attachment 767285

By the way, are people enjoying this blog? It doesn’t feel as engaged as Morocco - either Albania is less exciting, more people are off on their own adventures, or we’re not very funny or interesting these days. Probably the latter! I could always leave it and the few who are reading can just sign up to emails from our blog.

I read you and follow you but rarely comment. Thanks for all hour input.

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[Jane And Rog]

That kept Rog busy for a while

I did point out that the blog missed out the top to toe cleaning Denby got while he was playing around with gaffer tape!

 

[DerryW]

Keep posting, really informative and lighthearted. Enjoy the rest of the trip.

 

[Jane And Rog]

We’ve just had two nights at Riverside Camping in Berat. It’s a bit of a functional campsite, chosen for its easy access to town rather than its large pitches or scenic views.

Berat is a fantastic town, UNESCO listed, and my favourite in Albania so far. It’s very beautiful - white houses climb the steep hills either side of the river. It’s easy to see why Berat is known as the “city of 1000 windows.”

Unfortunately, the weather has been unkind to us, and there have been thunderstorms and heavy rain every afternoon. We managed a quick snoot around, then lunch on Monday - the latter at Beratino where we shared rice-stuffed peppers and this view.

On our way back, the heavens opened and we were very soggy on arrival back at Denby.
After a dull, rain-imprisoned afternoon, we got some sunshine in the evening and managed to score the best table in the house at “Tradita E Beratit.”

The meal was one of those all-in affairs that seem popular here, but get a bit samey. It was mainly notable for the cheese-stuffed beef (yum) and the house kitten (v. cute).

On Tuesday, we made an early start to get to the castle in the cool but not yet rainy weather. It was still a long, hot 45 minute hike, though. The castle is a magnificent 13C beast - the largest in Albania. It’s really a citadel, a small town, with narrow cobbled streets winding their way between houses, shops, former churches, restaurants and museums.

Our first stop (well, second after second coffee and water for Flynn) was the Onufri Icon Museum. Onufri was the greatest of a group of 16C Albanian icon-painters, and the museum was quite special. Even if you’re not so much of an icon specialist, it’s well worth a visit for all that golden paintwork - and all three of us put ourselves in that class, with Flynn not even being allowed in to improve himself.

Because of the dog-banning, we each took it in turns to gaze on gold, while the other explored the narrow streets.

Don’t miss the view from licks.materials.goodbye - amazing.

By now, Flynn was very hot, so he was taken to cool off in the muddy waters of the Osumi.

This time we made it back to the campsite before the rain started. I even managed to get a quick run in, while there was a short break in hostilities.

At our evening meal, I managed to try Tavë Kosi - a dish of lamb baked with rice, yogurt and lemon. Delicious, rather like a moussaka but made with whole chunks of lamb. The sun shone on our walk home. Berat was good, despite the rain!

For various reasons, including the weather, we’re bringing our ferry to Italy forward a week. We’ll still have had three weeks in Albania, and have explored a good chunk of it. We’ll mostly be missing the hiking we’d hoped to do around Permeti.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Our route south initially went north. The road up the Onufri valley eventually becomes a track before petering out. We’d planned to go up there and walk but the weather is against us. Still, all the better to visit the Çobo winery (///mewing.arrested.austerely) reportedly, Albania’s best.

It was certainly smart. And expensive. After a breakfast of their two whites and cheapest red we bought three bottles including a bottle of fizzy wine at a price that would make you think twice in Ashford’s finest wine boutique (Waitrose). Still, our days in Albania are now numbered on the claws of one paw (excluding dew claws) so our minds have turned recklessly towards souvenirs.

From Çobo towards Gjirokastër. I just searched in the guide book for some useful fact about Gjirokastra (we aim to educate and entertain). I didn’t find anything and the reason why hinted at in the previous sentence. Albanian has noun case and Gjirokastër is the indefinite case of Gjirokastra. Grammar school education and everything, I have no idea which one I should be using when.


On the way towards Gjirokastër we stopped at a roadside stall for food (///undergone.cradled.arrears). They had a tiny kitchen and a single wood oven. The food was delicious. Possibly the best we’ve eaten in Albania. We bought more souvenirs: olive oil and a massive jar of honey so black, even the white bits are black. We still have some of the Moroccan olive oil left, we’ll have to host a cheese and oil party or something.

We also gave Flynn a swim as Denby reported an outside temperature of 37C (and 34C inside when we got back)

Finally, Gjirokastra; another well preserved ottoman town with a huge citadel castle and bazar. Albania seems to have an embarrassingly large number of well preserved town nestling on hills overlooking empty lush green valleys.

To contrast the orthodox icons yesterday we visited one of Hoxha’s nuclear bunkers under the castle. Throughout the 70s Hoxha spent 20% of Albania’s GDP building bunkers. There are hundreds across the country, apparently enough to hold all of Albania’s then 1,000,000 population. Sadly for your 70’s Albanian, quantity comes at the expense of quality. This place was much less impressive than Tito’s bunker we visited last month. Still, Albania wins because Flynn was allowed to come on the tour with us.

We also bought another souvenir! A painted good luck ball that we’ll be putting to use on the Christmas tree.

We parked for the night at The Barrels (///excavates.teaming.parked) another winery with a restaurant.

The Barrels is a much more laid back affair than Çobo. The wine on offer was “red or white”, no mention of different years, specific fields or even types of grape. We ate excellent grilled pork under the vines the wine came from.

 

[MartynShaw]

Good luck with the weather! We are about 70 miles south in Corfu and have had rain today and the promise of more tomorrow :-(

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