iveco minibus conversion

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Got the other two dining area seats fitted, just need a table to complete this area, will recover the seats at a later date
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We too are newbie Iveco conversion owners - we were lucky enough to find a minibus that had already been converted but never used, as the previous owner had it done and then found that the vehicle was too big for him. Lots of jobs planned for over the Winter - we've just had the passenger seat out to treat the flooring and check over the night heater...should keep us warm on those chilly evenings! I'm midway through tinting the windows, but it's a bit of a bugger - attracts every bit of fluff or dust that you can't see until you smooth it out, by which time it's too late. Want to add some more cupboard space as it was done for a guy in a wheelchair, so everything is at low level, not utilising the space properly. Need to remove the wheelchair lift...any advice would be welcome!...fit curtain tracks, change the lights to LEDs...lots of little jobs!
You seem to be getting on well with yours and I look forward to seeing more of your progress!
 
We too are newbie Iveco conversion owners - we were lucky enough to find a minibus that had already been converted but never used, as the previous owner had it done and then found that the vehicle was too big for him. Lots of jobs planned for over the Winter - we've just had the passenger seat out to treat the flooring and check over the night heater...should keep us warm on those chilly evenings! I'm midway through tinting the windows, but it's a bit of a bugger - attracts every bit of fluff or dust that you can't see until you smooth it out, by which time it's too late. Want to add some more cupboard space as it was done for a guy in a wheelchair, so everything is at low level, not utilising the space properly. Need to remove the wheelchair lift...any advice would be welcome!...fit curtain tracks, change the lights to LEDs...lots of little jobs!
You seem to be getting on well with yours and I look forward to seeing more of your progress!
The wheelchair lift came out easily enough but take care they're extremely heavy and could even take your fingers off if they are caught between the mechanism. I'm a 19 stone reasonably strong man and me and another two similar guys had real trouble holding it. I'm glad i sold it first and didn't try to take it out myself. I did a lot of research before deciding to buy Iveco, they're an excellent vehicle and will often click up in excess of 500k but it's essential to change the oil regularly, (I'm thinking every year or 10k whichever comes first) and keep the cambelt change up to date. The interval for this is every 70k i think but I'm going for every 50k max. Then you will have many hassle free miles in it. What gvw do you have? mines plated at 5.2 but that was with the lift in and 11 more seats. I will take it to a public weighbridge as soon as ive got the water tank fitted. Then I'll have a better idea whether to get a mortgage for lightweight furniture board or use standard chipboard :think:
 
Ours is on the log book at 4.2t with the lift and classed as 8 seater. As I said it's had all the major conversion done but we'll be tweaking things to fit our needs - adding extra storage, rewire, etc. I'm thinking of using veneered furniture board, it's a bit overkill on the thickness but should give a nice finish and a lot cheaper than ply and veneer. I'll be glad when the windows are done, talk about a nightmare job and I'm a bit of a perfectionist!
 
Ours is on the log book at 4.2t with the lift and classed as 8 seater. As I said it's had all the major conversion done but we'll be tweaking things to fit our needs - adding extra storage, rewire, etc. I'm thinking of using veneered furniture board, it's a bit overkill on the thickness but should give a nice finish and a lot cheaper than ply and veneer. I'll be glad when the windows are done, talk about a nightmare job and I'm a bit of a perfectionist!
Would be a good idea to weigh it once the tail lift is out, and again once refitted. That will give you a clear idea of payload. As a truck driver I'm all too aware of the penalties for exceeding gvw. :shake: I'm still researching furniture board, the lightweight is advertised as being half the weight of standard chipboard but when i did a direct comparison with Wickes standard board there was only 6kg in it (ie: 32kg as opposed to 26) but wickes was £60 compared to £120 for lightweight, very limited colour choice with Wickes though. :oops2: Nothing wrong with being a perfectionist, too many people make an appalling job of self builds in my opinion.

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I have sent pm regarding if you have any spare sets for sale
Bilk
 
Would be a good idea to weigh it once the tail lift is out, and again once refitted. That will give you a clear idea of payload. As a truck driver I'm all too aware of the penalties for exceeding gvw. :shake: I'm still researching furniture board, the lightweight is advertised as being half the weight of standard chipboard but when i did a direct comparison with Wickes standard board there was only 6kg in it (ie: 32kg as opposed to 26) but wickes was £60 compared to £120 for lightweight, very limited colour choice with Wickes though. :oops2: Nothing wrong with being a perfectionist, too many people make an appalling job of self builds in my opinion.
I've seen some nice looking walnut veneer chipboard in B&Q buts its 18mm, so thicker than I was planning - thinking it could be nice with aluminum trim, though! I've got time yet before needing to buy as hubby has decided he wants to rewire the main electrics and I need to make sure I'm happy with the existing layout - we've got one of the bench seats that converts to double bed and I'm not sure if I want it where it is...seems to be that we start one job and make ourselves 3 others!
Thanks for the advice on the weight issue, we're not planning on having a water tank as we'll mainly be using on sites with facilities (with a 13 year old) rather than being off grid, so we're hoping weight shouldn't be an issue as it was originally an NHS bus.
 
chipboard in a motorhome is an absolute no no. it absorbs water and disintergrates and the structural strength is no where near suited to a vehicle. the extra few quid to buy the correct vohringer lightweight faced ply is well worth it
 
chipboard in a motorhome is an absolute no no. it absorbs water and disintergrates and the structural strength is no where near suited to a vehicle. the extra few quid to buy the correct vohringer lightweight faced ply is well worth it
Great advice I will be honest I done a van using reclaimed internal roof bording frome a statick that had Ben written off
It was OK
Bill

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chipboard in a motorhome is an absolute no no. it absorbs water and disintergrates and the structural strength is no where near suited to a vehicle. the extra few quid to buy the correct vohringer lightweight faced ply is well worth it
Sorry but that is utter nonsense. I've had two previous self- builds (not done by me) both had standard chipboard throughout and never had a problem. I personally have no issue with it other than the weight and would always advocate sealing any bare edges with a 50/50 mix oil based varnish and white spirit as standard.
 
have built a few homebrews myself and speaking from experience. one van i bought was already badly converted with chipboard cupboards and beds. it litterally fell apart inside, so i did it again right. sold 5 years later at a profit, still as strong as when i fitted it out. talking with other diy converters, several had seen the same issues with chipboard
 
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Got the fresh water tank fitted today, its underslung, went for fiamma 70litre and am impressed with the quality although I'm thinking of fitting another breather tube nearer the top as the supplied version seems too low down to allow filling to the top. Didn't get time to fit the lockable filler as it took ages to drill through the floor due to the amount of unwin tracking in this area, need to invest in better quality holesaws for sure :rollingeyes:
The green banding is powder coated 'band-it' stainless steel banding each piece has a breaking strain of 450kg and is through the chassis.:whatthe: The finished result is nice and solid, although I've yet to put a strip rubber between the tank and bracket to guard against noise/chafing.
 
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Got the fresh water tank fitted today, its underslung, went for fiamma 70litre and am impressed with the quality although I'm thinking of fitting another breather tube nearer the top as the supplied version seems too low down to allow filling to the top. .
That's because you've mounted the tank 'on edge' rather than on its base. The cap is meant to be at the highest point . Then the filler & overflow are at the top. As it is the filler will also only fill to the point where it is connected, halfway roughly.To continue o use it like that you will have to install a new filler & overflow right at the top & blank the existing ones.
 
That's because you've mounted the tank 'on edge' rather than on its base. The cap is meant to be at the highest point . Then the filler & overflow are at the top. As it is the filler will also only fill to the point where it is connected, halfway roughly.To continue o use it like that you will have to install a new filler & overflow right at the top & blank the existing ones.
Mounted in accordance with the instructions that came with it actually :wait:

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Just can't see how it can fill past half way ish with the inlet that low ? :unsure: I'd be thinking either the tank is wrong or the instructions are ?
 
Water will find its own level, but will fill more slowly due to the pressure when it reaches the fill connection.. Moving the breather pipe to the top will help.
 
but if the water level is above the inlet, which you are trying to do, it will then come back out. Water level can only be as high as the inlet.
If you did fill it to the top having put in a higher level breather , then as soon as you take the hose out it will pour back out & find its natural level at the filler inlet.
 
but if the water level is above the inlet, which you are trying to do, it will then come back out. Water level can only be as high as the inlet.
If you did fill it to the top having put in a higher level breather , then as soon as you take the hose out it will pour back out & find its natural level at the filler inlet.
No - the filler is well above the top of the tank.
 
are you not insulating the floor? 25mm celotex cut to cover the track then a plywood floor. will be cold in winter otherwise

Hia. I just bought an Iveco 65c15 to convert too. I have absolutely NO experience in anything DIY based, so reckon it'll be a journey! My first mission is to insulate and sort the floor. Any chance you could give me a step-by-step about the celotex option? Do I have to stick it down - if so, can you recommend a good glue? [nervous of that as me and the cat will still need to still sleep in the van as I do it!] - or can I simply lay it? Do I have to cut space underneath for the tracking to keep it level, or can I just squidge it on top?! I know these are stupid questions... but I'd rather know every detail before I begin to help me to get it right!!
... And then 8mm ply? Do I stick or drill it on? I have never even used a drill so even knowing drill bits and what kind of nails and stuff is handy too!!! - I know... it's mental I've taken this on right?!
And then finally the floor. Going to sand and use bits of palette wood in a herringbone design. Reckon that's the bit I'll find easier!
Any advice is VERY welcomed!!
 
Hia. I just bought an Iveco 65c15 to convert too. I have absolutely NO experience in anything DIY based, so reckon it'll be a journey! My first mission is to insulate and sort the floor. Any chance you could give me a step-by-step about the celotex option? Do I have to stick it down - if so, can you recommend a good glue? [nervous of that as me and the cat will still need to still sleep in the van as I do it!] - or can I simply lay it? Do I have to cut space underneath for the tracking to keep it level, or can I just squidge it on top?! I know these are stupid questions... but I'd rather know every detail before I begin to help me to get it right!!
... And then 8mm ply? Do I stick or drill it on? I have never even used a drill so even knowing drill bits and what kind of nails and stuff is handy too!!! - I know... it's mental I've taken this on right?!
And then finally the floor. Going to sand and use bits of palette wood in a herringbone design. Reckon that's the bit I'll find easier!
Any advice is VERY welcomed!!
bond strips of wood to the floor in lines spaced at 300mm to 400mm centres using sikaflex. then cut and lay celotex insulation between the wooden strips. You can lay conduit to hide cables under the floor at this point. Then cut plywood panels to fit over the insulation and wood. lay loosely at first until you have all the panels cut. then lift up and apply sikaflex to the wooden strips and put the boards back on top. once set you wont get a second chance to do it right.

use celotex and expanding urethane foam to insulate the walls and roof as well using the same technique. but use thinner ply for this to save weight.

if you subscribe as a member, there are a few threads on the forum detailing some absolutely brilliant self builds
 
So did we ever get to see the finished van?
 

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