Is this the cause of my airbag warning light?

Hi Wissel. I just changed a double seat with a single one and put swivel plates on both front seats, and it gives me airbag and seatbelt fault on the dash of an 2010 Scudo (which is identical to the Dispatch/Boxer)… Any chance you might still have the solution to this??? Would you be able to email me it/them? Thanks in advance. Sorry I’m new to this. My email is: leo_isac@hotmail.com. Thanks again! 🙏
 
Sorry, I should add that not knowing what I’m doing, I cut the plastic connectors from both the flooring and the seatbelt on new seat and connected them directly, thinking that was all that is needed. Little did I know… Anyway, I could get some connectors from the scrappy I suppose and add them in, if they are needed. It seems that the double seat had the blue one and single the while (as in the pic), and just two wires on both. Took the pre-tentioner off the double seat in case I needed it, but have no idea tbh… sorry. I’d be extremely happy for any help anyone may have. Thanks 👍
 

Attachments

  • 3576B95C-175B-4CA8-9489-7CE10C255843.jpeg
    3576B95C-175B-4CA8-9489-7CE10C255843.jpeg
    680.9 KB · Views: 60
  • EF0CBCF0-758F-4722-A3B1-5DCF8DF0B22C.jpeg
    EF0CBCF0-758F-4722-A3B1-5DCF8DF0B22C.jpeg
    466.5 KB · Views: 63
If you disconnected it, then turned on the ignition, warning light came on, and then after rejoined them, the warning will remain showing until the ignition has been cycled a few times. So try turning on and off the ignition a few times.
 
What happened to the poster who was taking his van for mot , did he solve it?

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
If you disconnected it, then turned on the ignition, warning light came on, and then after rejoined them, the warning will remain showing until the ignition has been cycled a few times. So try turning on and off the ignition a few times.
No joy. Airbag light continues to stay on and soon after fault beeps and flashes on the dash as well as airbag light on constantly
 
No joy. Airbag light continues to stay on and soon after fault beeps and flashes on the dash as well as airbag light on constantly
Ahhh. So you have a fault. Mine was just a light, no noise, and a few ignition cycles cleared it. Worth a try.
 
Ahhh. So you have a fault. Mine was just a light, no noise, and a few ignition cycles cleared it. Worth a try.
It seems that in changing the double seat and with its pretentioner it mucked to the whole system and now getting message every time I start engine on and airbag light on continually… grrr 😡
 
If you’ve got the right sized resistors installed on the correct wires......then after several power cycles of the ignition it should realise the fault has gone and go out.

You could try increasing the resistors or decreasing them, I have a resistor simulator that I use to determine what resistance make the light go out and then fit that size resistor. You could measure the resistance across the old pre-tensioner and fit resistors to that value too.


Make sure your battery is fully charged....sometimes a low battery doesn’t give enough power to achieve enough resistance, sounds odd I know, but I had a mates van where it would come back on when his van had been stood and the battery was low.
Would this method all clear the warning on the screen that flashes "Passenger Airbag Failure" or is it only for the light?
 
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
Would this method all clear the warning on the screen that flashes "Passenger Airbag Failure" or is it only for the light?
No, it won't trick the system into ignoring a failure or repair a faulty airbag ecu. The method is to delete the system looking for a seatbelt that is no longer there
 
I had the same issue a few months back.

If it's an issue where it had a double seat, but now a single, an OBD reset doesn't work (at least on a 2010 Boxer). It's a different ECU on a single seat model.

The way around it is a resistor as you already know. I have an image showing the exact wires that need cutting and bridging that I'll dig out and send you. I also have a load of the correct resistors as I bought a pack, so can send you a couple if you like?
Hi Wissel,

I too would appreciate a picture of which wires the resistor should be used across?

Many thanks,

Ian
 
Interesting that this thread has just been brought back to life.

In a few weeks I'll be looking to get the van sorted.

If anyone knows of a decent auto-electrician in Cheshire or Yorkshire let me know.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Hi all sorry to resurrect the thread again but is anyone able to tell me which wires to connect the resistors to? The are loads of threads on loads of forums about this but not a single picture! Everyone seems to PM it - is it a secret?!

My yellow plug seems to have the following wires in order.....

Orange/Blue
Orange/White
White/Black
White/Blue

I assume I would need two resistors, one connecting the Orange pair and one connecting the White pair?
free plug.jpg
 
not sure if this helps? please let us know how you get on.
 
Hi all sorry to resurrect the thread again but is anyone able to tell me which wires to connect the resistors to? The are loads of threads on loads of forums about this but not a single picture! Everyone seems to PM it - is it a secret?!

My yellow plug seems to have the following wires in order.....

Orange/Blue
Orange/White
White/Black
White/Blue

I assume I would need two resistors, one connecting the Orange pair and one connecting the White pair?View attachment 574669
If I recall correctly, then the orange pair is the pretensioner and the white, the switch in the clip
 
If anyone is near me and needs airbag light resetting, let me know.
That’s a generous offer. If I had the kit and the knowledge, I’d offer to do the same to anyone near me.

I really think that such offers, on this forum, is a valuable resource. We sometimes have all the kit and use it once. I’ve learned such a lot from so many posters but still lack confidence to attempt some tasks. With a local mentor to assist/demonstrate, I could do so much more and avoid needing to take the van to a dealer. This often involves much more than just the price of their service.
 
Is the air bag warning light actually an MOT failure? Any mechanics on here?

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Is the air bag warning light actually an MOT failure? Any mechanics on here?
Yes it is. You can buy timers on ebay that switch the warning LED on for 5 seconds with ignition so it will pass the MOT. That's what I'd do... Bypass the lot 😆
 
Yes it is. You can buy timers on ebay that switch the warning LED on for 5 seconds with ignition so it will pass the MOT. That's what I'd do... Bypass the lot 😆

How do these work? I guess there's a way to turn it off before installing this?

I'd very much like to bypass the whole system.

The "super computer" also believes (wrongly) that the back doors are open because the two sensors don't meet and therefore will not allow me to lock the drivers / passenger doors. I have to chain the front doors together and exit out the back.

If anyone makes a van with an engine and no computer b****ks I'd be first in line to buy one!
 
How do these work? I guess there's a way to turn it off before installing this?

I'd very much like to bypass the whole system.

The "super computer" also believes (wrongly) that the back doors are open because the two sensors don't meet and therefore will not allow me to lock the drivers / passenger doors. I have to chain the front doors together and exit out the back.

If anyone makes a van with an engine and no computer b****ks I'd be first in line to buy one!
Never done it but it either entails fitting your own 5mm LED in the instrument panel and powering it off the ebay timer, or disconnecting the wires from the existing LED and powering that off the timer. The timer will power multiple LEDs just remove the troublesome ones, fit and wire up new ones.


 
Last edited:
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
The "super computer" also believes (wrongly) that the back doors are open because the two sensors don't meet and therefore will not allow me to lock the drivers / passenger doors. I have to chain the front doors together and exit out the back.
I had the same problem on mine with the rear door lock. If you do not need to open it too often one way that does usually scam the system to work is with the door open pull the internal lock mechanism across as though locking it from inside. Then slam door immediately before it whirrs & clanks open again, which it will do,but don't worry as long as door is shut befores it does.
Then when you press the remote both the front & the rear & side will usually lock. It really is a joke of a system when isolating or disconnecting of the rear or side door doesn't isolate & allow you to lock the rest. Or a blatant money making scheme ensuring you buy a new lock. Eventually I bought another lock from a scrapyard here but it is all hit & miss if it has had excessive use, still 40€ is far better than 300€+iva new, or whatever they quoted me.
Hope this helps
 
I had the same problem on mine with the rear door lock. If you do not need to open it too often one way that does usually scam the system to work is with the door open pull the internal lock mechanism across as though locking it from inside. Then slam door immediately before it whirrs & clanks open again, which it will do,but don't worry as long as door is shut befores it does.
Then when you press the remote both the front & the rear & side will usually lock. It really is a joke of a system when isolating or disconnecting of the rear or side door doesn't isolate & allow you to lock the rest. Or a blatant money making scheme ensuring you buy a new lock. Eventually I bought another lock from a scrapyard here but it is all hit & miss if it has had excessive use, still 40€ is far better than 300€+iva new, or whatever they quoted me.
Hope this helps

The back doors (sliding and rear door) are fitted with slam locks not operated by the remote.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Never done it but it either entails fitting your own 5mm LED in the instrument panel and powering it off the ebay timer, or disconnecting the wires from the existing LED and powering that off the timer. The timer will power multiple LEDs just remove the troublesome ones, fit and wire up new ones.



Anyone able to fit this for me? I'm willing to travel!

Of not I might look for a YouTube how to and see how massively complex it is finding the right wires!
 
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
Anyone able to fit this for me? I'm willing to travel!

Of not I might look for a YouTube how to and see how massively complex it is finding the right wires!
Best thing to do is take the clocks out and look if it's possible to do without wrecking it, does the unit come apart? or sealed for life? Is there room to fit a new LED? Can the old one be removed easily? Or perhaps but a blob of black silicone on it? I'd do my own but I wouldn't want to butcher somebody else's 🤔

PS the existing LED might not look like a normal LED. Modern ones are tiny and are soldered right on the front of the circuit board.
 
Hi all sorry to resurrect the thread again but is anyone able to tell me which wires to connect the resistors to? The are loads of threads on loads of forums about this but not a single picture! Everyone seems to PM it - is it a secret?!

My yellow plug seems to have the following wires in order.....

Orange/Blue
Orange/White
White/Black
White/Blue

I assume I would need two resistors, one connecting the Orange pair and one connecting the White pair?View attachment 574669
HI Ian, I've just started my encounter with fitting Galaxy swivel seats to my Peugeot Boxer and so just catching up on this very useful thread. Did you get any clarification on the resistor size or the details of the connectors to bridge across for each connector ? If anyone else can forward any info would be much appreciated and apologies for starting this up again....
 
Ian won't be
HI Ian, I've just started my encounter with fitting Galaxy swivel seats to my Peugeot Boxer and so just catching up on this very useful thread. Did you get any clarification on the resistor size or the details of the connectors to bridge across for each connector ? If anyone else can forward any info would be much appreciated and apologies for starting this up again....
Ian will not able to respond he is no longer a paid up member.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 

Join us or log in to post a reply.

To join in you must be a member of MotorhomeFun

Join MotorhomeFun

Join us, it quick and easy!

Log in

Already a member? Log in here.

Latest journal entries

Back
Top