Is this bad advice for flooring?

Wild Brambles

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I watched this video by a guy who was installing a floor in a self-build -


The video is 10 mins long, so just in case you don't want to watch the whole thing, I'll list the 2 points that made me feel uncomfortable. The first is the way he attaches the battens. He lays out the pattern, and then drills pilot holes through the wood and the metal floor. He then drives screws down to secure them. Obviously this creates a good solid structure, but my feeling is that it could introduce potential rust problems in the future. My inclination would be to glue the battens to the floor - would this be a better option?

The other thing he suggests is an engine oil wash over the battens and the floor. His theory is that this gives protection if the van develops a leak, but I think it creates a serious health risk, I think I would prefer to use a decent paint,or maybe even just leave it untreated.
 
I think that wiring needs to go into trunking before using expanding foam around it.
1. it makes it possible to re-wire, by 'pulling through'.
2. some foams attack the wiring insulation.
 
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It's not just the fact he's making a pretty poor job of it, it's also because he's telling everybody how to do it.
I would say to him great, it's your van your job, do it how you want, but don't publish it as if you are some kind of expert... The Internet is full of it. ?

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I've started to stick Reflectix on the inside as a vapour barrier (well the Lidl equivalent).
I'm very taken with sheep's wool insulation for acoustic, thermal, environmental and hygroscopic properties
I would avoid using anything that absorbs moisture. It will get wet and stay wet. That's the last thing you want. Closed cell foam would be my recommendation. But of course, just my opinion
 
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I've watched most of the others he's done. Amazed at the underbed toilet, though it looks like hes left too little room to remove the cassette once full.
 
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I think that wiring needs to go into trunking before using expanding foam around it.

I think this is a sensible suggestion, and I've run some garden hose down both sides of the van. I'm such a cheapskate, but I believe it is good enough for 12 volt wiring, and I hope it will keep the rats off the wiring. :)

With regards to sheep's wool, there is an interesting article about its insulating properties on the green age site - https://www.thegreenage.co.uk/advantages-sheep-wool-insulation. It seemed to me to be ideal, especially when used in conjunction with a wood burner.

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“Sheep wool can absorb 33% of its weight in moisture without compromising its insulating ability. The core of the sheep wool fibre is hygroscopic, meaning that it will absorb water vapour“

Im not an expert, by any stretch of the imagination. Ive made loads of errors, Im learning how to do all this myself. But that to me is a red flag. Your in a metal box, the last thing you want is something that absorbs moisture, especially if it retains that moisture.

I have recently been on the phone to structural engineers, building inspectors and insulation specialists for this exact reason. They told me regarding steel structures, (this was regarding box section, I beams and C section but i think it is still relevant) always leave the cavity empty, and insulate around, and over it with closed cell type insulation not to use anything with hygroscopic properties . You will get condensation, you want it to be able to evaporate, not be absorbed and hang around.

I've ran test, as i doubt everything ?. In my garden ive left cut offs of box section for the elements to abuse, all have been painted on the outside.

One hollow
One hollow but sprayed with waxoyl
One partially filled with foam (by that i mean I've left cavitys to try replicate blind filling)
One filled with fiberglass wool

The waxoyled piece is rust free.
The hollow one has a dusting of surface rust but very minor, nothing to worry about.
Foam filled is slightly more rusty.
The wool filled one has extensive rust. It has penetrated the surface of the metal.

I put this down to the fact it has been wet the entire length of the test, the others are able to dry.

Again i know little about the properties of sheeps wool. But i have recently learnt this. Hope you find it useful ??

P.s. Good luck with your project. I hope you have great success ?
 
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

I have just spent the last half hour looking at his other build progress videos
JESUS CHRIST, what a cluster ****
Every video he does the EXACT opposite of what you should do.

I was rather hoping it would have been in the scrapyard by now having failed the MOT on loads of rust but nope, taxed and tested til 2020 :o
 
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

I have just spent the last half hour looking at his other build progress videos
JESUS CHRIST, what a cluster ****
Every video he does the EXACT opposite of what you should do.

I was rather hoping it would have been in the scrapyard by now having failed the MOT on loads of rust but nope, taxed and tested til 2020 :eek:
Agreed, his solar set up is terrible, 2 separate systems, inverters, 230v lights?!?
And he's showing everybody how to do it ?
 
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You guys are so cruel. Sharpen the knives for my conversion when it happens.
I'm expecting lots of hieroglyphics when I talk about my temporary wood burner insulation..

Re: the sheep's wool. I plan to glue Reflectix to the metal van skin as a vapour barrier. I'm hoping that the wood burner or the summer sun will reduce the build up of any water that the wool may collect. If it disperses fairly quickly, then it may be better there than collecting in/on other stuff in the van.
 
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Re: the sheep's wool. I plan to glue Reflectix to the metal van skin as a vapour barrier. I'm hoping that the wood burner or the summer sun will reduce the build up of any water that the wool may collect. If it disperses fairly quickly, then it may be better there than collecting in/on other stuff in the van.
As my previous post i would recommend a 50/50 mix of sheep and mineral wool.
I had it in my bongo for 6 years without the rear arch rust they are famous for.
First job was to uy a fresh import, remove the plastic interior trm waxoyl the inside of the wheel arches (30% added white spirit to realy get in the nooks and crannies).
It will stink for a couple of months. Insulate with wool refit plastic panels and add furnature. A point to note although the panels are impervious there are breathing slots alowing any condensation soaked wool to dry out.
the current B&q wool has a polyester content, possibly a more modern version of the one i used.
 
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I was thinking of using the stuff from Celtic -
 
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Looks good to me, even uses the caravan word, and recycled polyester for even better performance and greener credentials. Have look at b&q for specification and price.
 
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Come on, own up, who has subscribed to his channel???

Left my work PC on one of his vids when I went home Friday, just got back and hit refresh, it's leapt up from 626 to 628 ? ?

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If you ever get a new or second hand van ply lined post factory. Most installers simply wood screw the panels through the metal.

They are just protecting the outer skin from internal damage, not insulating it.
 
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