Is Sikaflex 512 man enough?

[Euro330]

Yeah considered both of these points. The question is which one. Spoken to van conversion companies who always say Sika products and say non-setting bedding mastic tapes are not as waterproof! Still non the wiser. Cheers. G

 

[IRHP]

I used Sikaflex 292i to fix the brackets for my solar panels, if they can hold a yacht keel on I reckoned they would hold the solar panels! Expensive though!

No yacht keels are held in with any sika. Keel bolts yes and Sika as a sealant

 

[MacroMad]

When using ANY adhesive there are things you must do to both surfaces.
As said above, depends on the shape and size.
If you want to "Glue" a flat surface to your "Flat" camper/Motorhome roof i would use a piece of flat timber with a good surface are and thick enough to screw my appliance to that, that would allow you to remove it if and when you liked. Just an idea.
What i would not use is any SILICONE adhesive, if it smells like "Pear Drops" its probably Silicone.

 

[MacroMad]

Spoken to van conversion companies who always say Sika products and say non-setting bedding mastic tapes are not as waterproof!

"non-setting bedding mastic tapes" i presume they mean "Butyl" tape/roll, if that stuff leaks then it has not been applied correctly.
Make sure both surfaces are clean and dry, apply Butyl tape (do not stretch it) do not overlap the join, i have seen so called installers telling you to "Overlap", no dont do that, butt the ends together with a clean sliced end. I use it and dont seal the unit with any other "sealant". It dont leak.

 

[sallylillian]

When using ANY adhesive there are things you must do to both surfaces.
As said above, depends on the shape and size.
If you want to "Glue" a flat surface to your "Flat" camper/Motorhome roof i would use a piece of flat timber with a good surface are and thick enough to screw my appliance to that, that would allow you to remove it if and when you liked. Just an idea.
What i would not use is any SILICONE adhesive, if it smells like "Pear Drops" its probably Silicone.

I had a two part base welded up with the bottom half having 4 studs and adhering it the roof. The other half with fixings to suit the item and 4 holes for the studs to pass through and be bolted up. Easy removal then of a failed device.
Michael

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[tonyidle]

I would simply have mounted the mifi aerial as intended - through the roof.

 

[Euro330]

"non-setting bedding mastic tapes" i presume they mean "Butyl" tape/roll, if that stuff leaks then it has not been applied correctly.
Make sure both surfaces are clean and dry, apply Butyl tape (do not stretch it) do not overlap the join, i have seen so called installers telling you to "Overlap", no dont do that, butt the ends together with a clean sliced end. I use it and dont seal the unit with any other "sealant". It dont leak.

That is all great advise. However once again, whose advise do I take.? Proffessional van fitters who I watched doing the live van conversion build at the SECC, Glagow, or a person I know nothing about giving an opinion. Yes I have used thes before myself. Still non the wiser (again)

 

[Landy Andy]

Landy, a question if you dont mind.
I have asked here before but none of the replies really answered my question.
I am changeing the external Thetford Storage/Locker doors, door No`s 3 + 4 + 5 and frames, Fresh water filler neck and EHU 240v external socket on my moho from original White to Black. What sealant/adhesives would you recommend? None of the changes are load/weight bearing or taking weight at all and all will be re-fitted to MoHo (Bailey Approach Advance 640 2016) useing original fixing points, all identical swap overs. Also I am fitting new GRP panels (Prima Leisure) into the Thetford doors. Again what would you recommend for sealing those and what best to use for cleaning excess sealant/adhesive away (White Spirit/Meths/soapy water/Rubbing alcohol)?
I have used Sikaflex EBT+ before for other jobs but thought it stayed a bit tacky!
You mentioned you use sealants for a living and I prefer asking advise from people in the know rather than peops with the best of intentions but not much of a proffessional idea.
Cheers. Graeme.

I go against what many people do/say and glue things in place. In my experience if things are fitted correctly in the first place they won’t need to be removed and resealed later on. If the item fails or gets broken then you don’t have to be careful removing it as you are fully replacing it, but yes it will take longer. To me the most important thing is to keep water out, and things stuck where I want them. One of my go to sealer/glues is tiger seal. It’s a great product and available in different colours, gives a nice clean finish and allows some movement. (<Broken link removed>). Other Sika sealers are good, but I won’t bother with 512 any more having had a couple of issues that have caused me problems.

i use silicone blade to give me the finish I want (https://www.cramer.gmbh/en/silicone-joints/fugi-professional) and will clean up after with wounder wipes (https://www.everbuild.co.uk/product/multi-use-wonder-wipes/)

 

[tonyidle]

That is all great advise. However once again, whose advise do I take.? Proffessional van fitters who I watched doing the live van conversion build at the SECC, Glagow, or a person I know nothing about giving an opinion. Yes I have used thes before myself. Still non the wiser (again)

Van converters consider cost, speed of application, and effectiveness of any product they use. A simple example is butyl sealant: a 'professional' would use it from a gun whereas an individual would use tape-form butyl. There's a tendency to over-think certain jobs.

There are two types of sealant to use on a motorhome or caravan: the first is a sealant without strong adhesive properties where it is likely that ease of future removal is important and where screws or compression are the fixing method; the second is where a sealant with strong adhesive properties is used as the primary or only method of attachment. Wherever fixture is not important a butyl mastic provides an excellent seal. Correctly applied it will still be fresh years afterwards. In my experience in excess of ten years after application. In the limited number of applications where the sealant is the primary (or only) fix then a safe and strong PU adhesive sealant is essential.

In both cases users will have their favourite brands based on their experiences. However no case can be made for using the incorrect type for a particular application - as anyone who has had to remove a rooflight or window sealed with a PU adhesive will attest.

 

[Euro330]

I thought my original question would be an easy answer. Probably is I am sure, as someone out there will have the answer. I was looking for advise based on useage, good or bad, recommendations through proffessional or informed DIY`ers, not `I wouldnt use that` or `I use sticky pads stuff cant remember the name of it` and also how useable a product is, does it set hard, remain flexible.
I appreciate peops messages but really have to wonder are some bits of `advise`, people just wanting to tell how they did it and it really will be best or as they used it and wouldnt consider it might not be correct and so called conversion specialists should not be listened to.
No I am not going to do calculations with physics or gravity v 50mph around a corner to work out if a

Having spent last weekend cutting off the 512 and having to redo a glue and fixing job, I won’t be using it again. Not impressed with it, and yes it was applied properly and all that. I’m used to sealing things for a living. 29i would be a better call.

I go against what many people do/say and glue things in place. In my experience if things are fitted correctly in the first place they won’t need to be removed and resealed later on. If the item fails or gets broken then you don’t have to be careful removing it as you are fully replacing it, but yes it will take longer. To me the most important thing is to keep water out, and things stuck where I want them. One of my go to sealer/glues is tiger seal. It’s a great product and available in different colours, gives a nice clean finish and allows some movement. (<Broken link removed>). Other Sika sealers are good, but I won’t bother with 512 any more having had a couple of issues that have caused me problems.

i use silicone blade to give me the finish I want (https://www.cramer.gmbh/en/silicone-joints/fugi-professional) and will clean up after with wounder wipes (https://www.everbuild.co.uk/product/multi-use-wonder-wipes/)

Good man, sound like good advise, thats what I was looking for, someone who has used a product, why they have used it, pros and cons and how to clean/treat excess away. I will look into that today. Cheers G

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[Euro330]

I go against what many people do/say and glue things in place. In my experience if things are fitted correctly in the first place they won’t need to be removed and resealed later on. If the item fails or gets broken then you don’t have to be careful removing it as you are fully replacing it, but yes it will take longer. To me the most important thing is to keep water out, and things stuck where I want them. One of my go to sealer/glues is tiger seal. It’s a great product and available in different colours, gives a nice clean finish and allows some movement. (<Broken link removed>). Other Sika sealers are good, but I won’t bother with 512 any more having had a couple of issues that have caused me problems.

i use silicone blade to give me the finish I want (https://www.cramer.gmbh/en/silicone-joints/fugi-professional) and will clean up after with wounder wipes (https://www.everbuild.co.uk/product/multi-use-wonder-wipes/)

Hi again Landy, looked it all up. I can get Puraflex 40 locally today, Is that comparable to the Tiger Seal? Or I can just send of for the Tiger Seal. Cheers G

 

[Landy Andy]

Euro330 the Puraflex will do what you require, it’s not as good as Tiger, but you aren’t needing the best.

If your not great a sealing, or are a messy boy, I highly recommend the application tools and the wipes. I much prefer the “too much” sealer, and then clean up option knowing it’s done correct the first time

 

[Euro330]

Yeah can get the wipes no problem, not the best at applying sealants though, my mate is somewhat expert though in building trade sealing, he will do that for me, he has the Hilti applicator gun. Cheers for informed replies, I agree with the toom much rather than not enough policy aswell, and much appreciated, I will get some pics your way when finished. I have already Plasticote`d the Dometic Fridge vents and Whale vent with heat resistant coat with a clear cote and put on other Bailey matching Decals from other models on front bumper and overhead cab. Looks good. Just takes away the bland White of the MoHo. Cheers again. G

 

[MacroMad]

A simple example is butyl sealant: a 'professional' would use it from a gun

I dont think so, it is what it is, a product in tape form not extruded from a gun.

Wherever fixture is not important a butyl mastic provides an excellent seal. Correctly applied it will still be fresh years afterwards. In my experience in excess of ten years after application.

Absolutely agree with you there, just a tip, whenever i remove "old" butyl tape from a window or whatever, iroll it up into a ball and keep it.
You can use it as "Dum Dum", just pull a piece of at any time and block up a hole, or stick something in place.

However no case can be made for using the incorrect type for a particular application - as anyone who has had to remove a rooflight or window sealed with a PU adhesive will attest.

Also remember that most PU adhesives need a primer and a cleaner.

 

[tonyidle]

I dont think so, it is what it is, a product in tape form not extruded from a gun.

Here you go:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=273661294247

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[MacroMad]

This is not "Butyl" tape in a tube, its just not. impossible to extrude what you get on a roll out of a 10mm hole in a tube.
This is the description........
"DESCRIPTION:- Butyrub is a permanent plastic one-component sealant based on polybutene.
CHARACTERISTICS
- Very easy to apply
- Forms an elastic and tight skin
- Can be painted over after 24 hours
- Very good adhesion on many building surfaces"
Butyl tape does not form a skin, as you yourself said earlier, "it stays fresh", which it does.
That stuff is just a sealant, probably for caulking.

 

[footscray188c]

Puraflex 40 from toolstation industrial PU adhesive without the Sikaflex price.

 

[MacroMad]

Never hear of that before but it looks and sounds about right.
Usually these PU adhesives need a cleaner to clean both surfaces to be bonded, and then a "primer" which is actually an activator that gives the adhesion to the surface's and also to the adhesive itself.
If the surfaces are not prepared correctly the adhesive (once it has cured) can in some circumstances be pulled away quite cleanly.