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An 1100 watt kettle should even allowing for inverter efficiency only draw around 100 amps so the trip could be faulty. Depending on the type trip/MCB' normally need twice the rated current for 10 seconds to trip or much longer times at lower overloads the spec should have a graph showing trip time versus current.we have the same inverter but 200ah of pure lead Carbon batteries, may i ask if you have a fuse/trip between the inverter and batteries and if so what size is it.
Using our new 1100w Kampa kettle it trips my 150a trip switch before boiling so i'm asking if i need to go higher with the trip current rating
Any help from anyone would be really appreciated
thanks Al
Correct, if the 1400 watt load is the max, ideally you need 600ah of batteries, if only used occasionally for short periods you could get away with 400ah.I use the inverter in the main to run a 750w little coffee machine, charge Mac laptop (85w) and using a 1400 w Dyson hairdryer. Now on the inverter I have 200A fuse and 25mm cables. The hair dryer when operated is for around 10 minutes off and on in the morning only when the shunt shows the batteries at 100%. From the comments around C/5 ( a first for me on this info) is it said that I simply do not have enough battery bank power.
That’s certainly more than we ever had to run 1000/1200watts, 2x80ah gel for a good few years and then doubled it to 320ah but 10 years on the originals are still OK.Correct, if the 1400 watt load is the max, ideally you need 600ah of batteries, if only used occasionally for short periods you could get away with 400ah.
If you want to use the full output of the inverter you need around 900ah, or for ocassional short period use 600ah.
If you want to be sure your batteries are going to last stick to the C5 rate. Many over crank their batteries and get away with it like you. I have a 1000 watt inverter with 3 x 78ah Gels and I do occasionally take 66 amps out of them for 3 or 4 min (small kettle on the tunnel).That’s certainly more than we ever had to run 1000/1200watts, 2x80ah gel for a good few years and then doubled it to 320ah but 10 years on the originals are still OK.
I do think it’s important to select the heaviest battery possible though.
Start with the power that is needed. For example 1000w divide by 12v operating system. That’s 83a needed to come out of the battery. A lead of any kind can discharge a max C/5 current. The C is your total battery capacity divided by 5. In our case we have 83a needed times 5 = 415ah battery bank to sustain a 1000w load. Any more is abuse on batteries. When you have a large load and small battery bank, you help it with direct solar production and engine alternator. If you want large power draw lithium is your friend.
I am very reluctant to offer advice, especially for free so instead I offer my experience and people can then make up their own minds play safe vs take a gambleIf you want to be sure your batteries are going to last stick to the C5 rate. Many over crank their batteries and get away with it like you. I have a 1000 watt inverter with 3 x 78ah Gels and I do occasionally take 66 amps out of them for 3 or 4 min (small kettle on the tunnel).
But it would be wrong to advise people on a forum to over crank their batteries, I like advise what is acceptable not what they might get away with.
In theory yes it would work but you only really want to do it when driving. Modern diesels should not be started and run on tickover they should be driven off straight away.Raul - If I could be a bit cheeky and pick your brains. I have 2xlead acids with 190Ahr(VartaLFD90s) in total. Using the C/5 approach this means I shouldn't go over 36A. So lets say I want to run a microwave every 2nd day for 2mins. Roughly speaking I'm going to need to supply 90A. Up my sleeve I have a 60A Sterling B2B. If I start the van and wait the 2 mins for the B2B to kick in, can I then assume that my B2B will throw in the 50Amps and the batteries take up the remainder. You can assume that wiring and fuses would be appropriately sized. TIA
I would do the same if I was in your position, as a temporary solution, just add 2mins running the engine after the microwave off. That will level off the starter battery. The power has to come from somewhere, the B2B will deliver its rates output.Raul - If I could be a bit cheeky and pick your brains. I have 2xlead acids with 190Ahr(VartaLFD90s) in total. Using the C/5 approach this means I shouldn't go over 36A. So lets say I want to run a microwave every 2nd day for 2mins. Roughly speaking I'm going to need to supply 90A. Up my sleeve I have a 60A Sterling B2B. If I start the van and wait the 2 mins for the B2B to kick in, can I then assume that my B2B will throw in the 50Amps and the batteries take up the remainder. You can assume that wiring and fuses would be appropriately sized. TIA
Hi LennyAn 1100 watt kettle should even allowing for inverter efficiency only draw around 100 amps so the trip could be faulty. Depending on the type trip/MCB' normally need twice the rated current for 10 seconds to trip or much longer times at lower overloads the spec should have a graph showing trip time versus current.
One thing you need to is to at least double the size of your battery bank if you want your batteries to last.
At that price I wouldn't hold out much hope for it why not just fit a midi or maxi fuseHi Lenny
its this one or at least very similar
<Broken link removed>
I had actually thought it may be faulty tbh, would you advise me to up the rating and if so what to?
I'm only on non ehu occasionally, would you still advise me to double up my batteries to 400ah or go down the lithium route, bearing in mind I’ve a Victron MPPT controller 75-15 with a 140w panel separate to a 100ah panel via the Sargent EC700, also I’ve a Victron 12-30 DC to DC charger
Al
we have the same inverter but 200ah of pure lead Carbon batteries, may i ask if you have a fuse/trip between the inverter and batteries and if so what size is it.
Using our new 1100w Kampa kettle it trips my 150a trip switch before boiling so i'm asking if i need to go higher with the trip current rating
Any help from anyone would be really appreciated
thanks Al
we have the same inverter but 200ah of pure lead Carbon batteries, may i ask if you have a fuse/trip between the inverter and batteries and if so what size is it.
Using our new 1100w Kampa kettle it trips my 150a trip switch before boiling so i'm asking if i need to go higher with the trip current rating
Any help from anyone would be really appreciated
thanks Al.
I thought that but replaced breaker same problem think breakers are a bit sensitive.that’s what i’m wondering tbh, unless it is a faulty breaker
that kettle should be using a shade under 100 amp at 90% efficiency thats only 110 amps , i wonder wh
I have seen those trip switches and wouldn’t trust them.I thought that but replaced breaker same problem think breakers are a bit sensitive.
The way to find out is to test it. Someone already did it and posted on YouTube. Did a proper tear down and testing under different currents with inconsistent results. It’s a bi metal thermal expansion contractor with a spring loaded trip. Very poor. Fuse or midnite proper electromagnetic breakers. Schneider does dc breakers to, for a price.I’ll certainly fit a proper fuse but wanting to know what rating is correct, is a 150a fuse the correct size does anyone know
Al
Well i’ve ordered a couple of fuses care of Lenny’s link so let’s hope that cures the issue.The way to find out is to test it. Someone already did it and posted on YouTube. Did a proper tear down and testing under different currents with inconsistent results. It’s a bi metal thermal expansion contractor with a spring loaded trip. Very poor. Fuse or midnite proper electromagnetic breakers. Schneider does dc breakers to, for a price.