Insulation comparison: coachbuilt, PVC, campervan?

[Pocket Rocket]

We have previously owned a coachbuilt motorhome (sadly had to sell due to unexpected health issues). We have really missed “motorhome life” so are now considering getting a smaller vehicle - either a PVC or a VW LWB campervan.

We have some concerns about insulation (for hot / cold weather, but also external noise eg roads). Our previous motorhome had “Grade 3” insulation and even when it was over 30 degrees outside it would stay cooler in the van.

We’ve looked at a few reputable VW converters, and although they state insulation, there’s still a lot of “metal body work” eg round edges of doors etc.
Does anyone have any experience of the insulation levels in PVC’s and campervans?

I’m not sure if we’re looking for a moon on a stick! A well made, well insulated small vehicle for tiny alpine roads and Welsh lanes

 

[hja]

Our Globecar has insect net as standard. Really useful. No idea about the insulation. Seems ok to us. Draft from between sliding door and floor. Hopefully resolved with length of pipe insulation for use when necessary.

 

[gus-lopez]

It has made a massive difference in terms of noise levels - that door shuts with a solid thump and no rattles.

It is worth doing just for that .

 

[nicholsong]

We have an IH PVC and apparently that has level 2 insulation. Consort PVCs have level 3 which is better.

I know this thread des not include 'A' Class but since Leve 2 and 3 have been mentioned, I have no idea what level of insulation is in our N&B Arto 2003.

Does anyone know?

 

[Bertilak]

One statistic I found is
Mild steel has 1600times the thermal conductivity of PU insulation. -at that multiplier it doesn't really matter what quality of insulation you have. One 0.5mm steel rib will suck out all the heat you've saved by an insulated panel 800mm long next to it... and thats only on one edge.
So until you've got all the steel covered you will have limited overall effectiveness. Then the limiting factors become the effectiveness of covering the steel, then the glass.

For winter use you get the need for airflow to stop condensation and keep a healthy comfortable humidity level. I think optimising that is harder the smaller van you have, unless you have heating power to waste, though that is more likely. Probably survivable for individual nights, but locking down a few days without being able to leave the doors open would be horrendous.

Hover in a summer heatwave (in our limited experience) surviving in a poorly insulated van is more about promoting air flow than perfection in the insulation; hence the popularity of the Maxxfans etc.
Also consider bed size- we think you need more space when it's hot, - and in our MWB Fiat we are happy to have forgone a shower cubical to get a 4'6 wide bed with elbow room.