If you are unsatisfied with your blown air heater's comfort level, read this.

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May 29, 2021
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Hymer Van
My experience is from Truma, but will most likely be the same with any other blown air heater. Might also including systems like Alde, but as they are slower to react (heat) it's maybe not something affecting those kinds of systems. I've been meaning to write this years ago, but now as I've had the same problem (and fix) on two diffrent vans, I may really be on to something so I thought I'd share this now.

Our previous PVC was a Hymer 2011 with 4kw gas Truma. In the autumn when the temperatures started to be around 0c I noticed that heating was kind of shit. Especially the hysteresis was enormous, I believe it was even up to 5 degrees. Meaning the temperature fell very low before the heater started to do what it's meant to. Also, every time something was cooked, the heater went to low power or even shut down completely. Everone knows how quick you get the chills if it's 0c outside ant the heater decides to take a break.

Our current van is a Hymer PVC 2024 with a 6kw diesel Truma, and even before we got it I noticed on youtube videos that yep, same idiotic design still. When the van came and summer turned in to autumn, the same idiotic behaviour of the heater. Exactly the same problem as with the previous one. I was furious even if I knew it was coming. Why do they keep doing it this way!

With the first van I quite quickly thought it has to do with the placement of the temperature sensor. It was above the sliding door (LHD, slide on the right) and when you cook something the heat goes there and the heater think it's warm and no need to heat. Also, as warm air goes up, the heater was satisfied with it's work eventhough there was much colder on the lower level. At this point I also noticed that some manufacturers place the sensor significantly lower, and that's what I ended up doing.

Took the sensor away from the original place up high and placed much lower and oh my god. It was like a completely new heating system! Temperature stayed much more constant and cooking made no difference any more. Naturally when you're boiling potatoes for 45 minutes the temperature goes slightly up but that's much easier to deal with. The much more even heating did increase the gas consumption quite noticeably, but I never thought of reverting back to the old system.

And as with the new van, even sillyer design. The sensor was just behind and above the driver's head, so in addition to the same problems as with the older, this also made the heater to usually turn off while driving as the sensor got heat from the car's heater and thought all ok no need to heat. That then leads the living area getting cold as well as all the water systems. With this van there were slight problems with the modification so I ended up getting it done only in February, and oh boy was I pissed on my trips until then. But when I got it done, it's been pure perfection ever since.

So, if your heater doesn't work quite as you'd expect and the temp sensor is high above, you might consider this. Just make sure it's positioned that way that it doesn't get any direct - or hopefully not even indirect - heat blown in to it, that way it's probably going to get even worse :-) In the picture you can see the approximate positions I've used. The green is the new one, didn't really want to go that low but it was the easiest place to try so I went for it and works just fine.

And yes I'm pretty sure there are people who have their sensors high and feel it works just great, guess the manufacturers wouldn't keep doing that if it didn't work. But from my experience I don't get it.

1742036437717.webp
 
I too have noted huge hysteresis in my gas only Trauma.
But I also note when the heating is 'turned off' when the set temperature is reached the heating does not turn off completely.
A 'tick over ' is maintained, at least on mine.
This may account partly for the 'delayed' switch back on?
 
That age won't have, it's on the CP Plus digital controller from around 2014.
I may be wrong but I would think the offset is to adjust what you set your temperature to and what you achieve.
I don't think it will affect the systems hysteresis.
 
Can't say that I have had a problem with Truma Combi heating on 2 6m caravans with combi 4's and 3 6 m motorhomes with combi 6 using just electric or gas, I always leave the water heating on hot so when the heating cuts in it's immediately blowing warm air at around 50 degrees c this helps with hysteresis as the air comes out hot almost immediately.
 
What is hysteresis ?
Basically the difference between the temperature you set and how far the temperature drops or rises before the heating cuts in or out there is a choice of 2 settings on the combi control panel.

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What is hysteresis ?
I had to look it up too


What is hysteresis in simple terms?


As a general term, hysteresis means a lag between input and output in a system upon a change in direction. Hysteresis is something that happens with magnetic materials so that, if a varying magnetizing signal is applied, the resulting magnetism that is created follows the applied signal, but with a delay.

In this case heating / temperatures
 
So what is the Offset function that you can set in newer models and how can you identify where your sensor is located. I font really understand the former and have not seen anything suggesting the sensor in my van.
 
Most, if not all, blown air heaters have a noticeable hysteresis. It's my understanding that this is to ensure that the heater burner chamber can cool and purge completely before the next fire up as fans keep running after the flame is extinguished.
I have seen a suggested wiring option for heater thermostat sensors that can provide alternative switched locations notably for daytime and nighttime.
In my case I have opted for both a Truma 4E and a 4kW diesel Eberspacher thus three different energy sources if you count the 240v option of the 4E. Usually the preference for habitation area heating the diesel Eberspacher is used with the Truma reserved for water heating powered by gas..
 
PDrill The mistake you have been making all these years is boiling your potatoes for 45 minutes. Twenty minutes should suffice.:LOL:
Being serious now - that is very good advice you have given us. Thank you.

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My experience is from Truma, but will most likely be the same with any other blown air heater. Might also including systems like Alde, but as they are slower to react (heat) it's maybe not something affecting those kinds of systems. I've been meaning to write this years ago, but now as I've had the same problem (and fix) on two diffrent vans, I may really be on to something so I thought I'd share this now.

Our previous PVC was a Hymer 2011 with 4kw gas Truma. In the autumn when the temperatures started to be around 0c I noticed that heating was kind of shit. Especially the hysteresis was enormous, I believe it was even up to 5 degrees. Meaning the temperature fell very low before the heater started to do what it's meant to. Also, every time something was cooked, the heater went to low power or even shut down completely. Everone knows how quick you get the chills if it's 0c outside ant the heater decides to take a break.

Our current van is a Hymer PVC 2024 with a 6kw diesel Truma, and even before we got it I noticed on youtube videos that yep, same idiotic design still. When the van came and summer turned in to autumn, the same idiotic behaviour of the heater. Exactly the same problem as with the previous one. I was furious even if I knew it was coming. Why do they keep doing it this way!

With the first van I quite quickly thought it has to do with the placement of the temperature sensor. It was above the sliding door (LHD, slide on the right) and when you cook something the heat goes there and the heater think it's warm and no need to heat. Also, as warm air goes up, the heater was satisfied with it's work eventhough there was much colder on the lower level. At this point I also noticed that some manufacturers place the sensor significantly lower, and that's what I ended up doing.

Took the sensor away from the original place up high and placed much lower and oh my god. It was like a completely new heating system! Temperature stayed much more constant and cooking made no difference any more. Naturally when you're boiling potatoes for 45 minutes the temperature goes slightly up but that's much easier to deal with. The much more even heating did increase the gas consumption quite noticeably, but I never thought of reverting back to the old system.

And as with the new van, even sillyer design. The sensor was just behind and above the driver's head, so in addition to the same problems as with the older, this also made the heater to usually turn off while driving as the sensor got heat from the car's heater and thought all ok no need to heat. That then leads the living area getting cold as well as all the water systems. With this van there were slight problems with the modification so I ended up getting it done only in February, and oh boy was I pissed on my trips until then. But when I got it done, it's been pure perfection ever since.

So, if your heater doesn't work quite as you'd expect and the temp sensor is high above, you might consider this. Just make sure it's positioned that way that it doesn't get any direct - or hopefully not even indirect - heat blown in to it, that way it's probably going to get even worse :-) In the picture you can see the approximate positions I've used. The green is the new one, didn't really want to go that low but it was the easiest place to try so I went for it and works just fine.

And yes I'm pretty sure there are people who have their sensors high and feel it works just great, guess the manufacturers wouldn't keep doing that if it didn't work. But from my experience I don't get it.

View attachment 1028652
My experience is from Truma, but will most likely be the same with any other blown air heater. Might also including systems like Alde, but as they are slower to react (heat) it's maybe not something affecting those kinds of systems. I've been meaning to write this years ago, but now as I've had the same problem (and fix) on two diffrent vans, I may really be on to something so I thought I'd share this now.

Our previous PVC was a Hymer 2011 with 4kw gas Truma. In the autumn when the temperatures started to be around 0c I noticed that heating was kind of shit. Especially the hysteresis was enormous, I believe it was even up to 5 degrees. Meaning the temperature fell very low before the heater started to do what it's meant to. Also, every time something was cooked, the heater went to low power or even shut down completely. Everone knows how quick you get the chills if it's 0c outside ant the heater decides to take a break.

Our current van is a Hymer PVC 2024 with a 6kw diesel Truma, and even before we got it I noticed on youtube videos that yep, same idiotic design still. When the van came and summer turned in to autumn, the same idiotic behaviour of the heater. Exactly the same problem as with the previous one. I was furious even if I knew it was coming. Why do they keep doing it this way!

With the first van I quite quickly thought it has to do with the placement of the temperature sensor. It was above the sliding door (LHD, slide on the right) and when you cook something the heat goes there and the heater think it's warm and no need to heat. Also, as warm air goes up, the heater was satisfied with it's work eventhough there was much colder on the lower level. At this point I also noticed that some manufacturers place the sensor significantly lower, and that's what I ended up doing.

Took the sensor away from the original place up high and placed much lower and oh my god. It was like a completely new heating system! Temperature stayed much more constant and cooking made no difference any more. Naturally when you're boiling potatoes for 45 minutes the temperature goes slightly up but that's much easier to deal with. The much more even heating did increase the gas consumption quite noticeably, but I never thought of reverting back to the old system.

And as with the new van, even sillyer design. The sensor was just behind and above the driver's head, so in addition to the same problems as with the older, this also made the heater to usually turn off while driving as the sensor got heat from the car's heater and thought all ok no need to heat. That then leads the living area getting cold as well as all the water systems. With this van there were slight problems with the modification so I ended up getting it done only in February, and oh boy was I pissed on my trips until then. But when I got it done, it's been pure perfection ever since.

So, if your heater doesn't work quite as you'd expect and the temp sensor is high above, you might consider this. Just make sure it's positioned that way that it doesn't get any direct - or hopefully not even indirect - heat blown in to it, that way it's probably going to get even worse :-) In the picture you can see the approximate positions I've used. The green is the new one, didn't really want to go that low but it was the easiest place to try so I went for it and works just fine.

And yes I'm pretty sure there are people who have their sensors high and feel it works just great, guess the manufacturers wouldn't keep doing that if it didn't work. But from my experience I don't get it.

View attachment 1028652
Why would you boil potatoes for 45 minutes?
 
How do you find the heat sensor? What does it look like?
 
How do you find the heat sensor? What does it look like?
On my system, Truman from 2006, it's a small black plastic half sphere about 15mm diameter. Mine as with the OP is above the door next to the control panel.

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My experience is from Truma, but will most likely be the same with any other blown air heater. Might also including systems like Alde, but as they are slower to react (heat) it's maybe not something affecting those kinds of systems. I've been meaning to write this years ago, but now as I've had the same problem (and fix) on two diffrent vans, I may really be on to something so I thought I'd share this now.

Our previous PVC was a Hymer 2011 with 4kw gas Truma. In the autumn when the temperatures started to be around 0c I noticed that heating was kind of shit. Especially the hysteresis was enormous, I believe it was even up to 5 degrees. Meaning the temperature fell very low before the heater started to do what it's meant to. Also, every time something was cooked, the heater went to low power or even shut down completely. Everone knows how quick you get the chills if it's 0c outside ant the heater decides to take a break.

Our current van is a Hymer PVC 2024 with a 6kw diesel Truma, and even before we got it I noticed on youtube videos that yep, same idiotic design still. When the van came and summer turned in to autumn, the same idiotic behaviour of the heater. Exactly the same problem as with the previous one. I was furious even if I knew it was coming. Why do they keep doing it this way!

With the first van I quite quickly thought it has to do with the placement of the temperature sensor. It was above the sliding door (LHD, slide on the right) and when you cook something the heat goes there and the heater think it's warm and no need to heat. Also, as warm air goes up, the heater was satisfied with it's work eventhough there was much colder on the lower level. At this point I also noticed that some manufacturers place the sensor significantly lower, and that's what I ended up doing.

Took the sensor away from the original place up high and placed much lower and oh my god. It was like a completely new heating system! Temperature stayed much more constant and cooking made no difference any more. Naturally when you're boiling potatoes for 45 minutes the temperature goes slightly up but that's much easier to deal with. The much more even heating did increase the gas consumption quite noticeably, but I never thought of reverting back to the old system.

And as with the new van, even sillyer design. The sensor was just behind and above the driver's head, so in addition to the same problems as with the older, this also made the heater to usually turn off while driving as the sensor got heat from the car's heater and thought all ok no need to heat. That then leads the living area getting cold as well as all the water systems. With this van there were slight problems with the modification so I ended up getting it done only in February, and oh boy was I pissed on my trips until then. But when I got it done, it's been pure perfection ever since.

So, if your heater doesn't work quite as you'd expect and the temp sensor is high above, you might consider this. Just make sure it's positioned that way that it doesn't get any direct - or hopefully not even indirect - heat blown in to it, that way it's probably going to get even worse :-) In the picture you can see the approximate positions I've used. The green is the new one, didn't really want to go that low but it was the easiest place to try so I went for it and works just fine.

And yes I'm pretty sure there are people who have their sensors high and feel it works just great, guess the manufacturers wouldn't keep doing that if it didn't work. But from my experience I don't get it.

View attachment 1028652
Where did you take the wiring from. I was thinking of doing this but my sensor is on the opposite side of the Motorhome to where I want to put it.
 
My wife has health issues which means she can often feel cold when it isn't, I've often seen her on a warm day on a campsite sitting in denims and sweatshirt while everyone else is in shorts and t-shirts. At home we have a thermostat for the heating which you can place wherever suits you. Only in the past week, instead of constantly turning it up a degree or so (it sits on the coffee table level with the sofa) I simply lift it and put it on the floor and soon the house is cooking (too hot for me!) The stat may be set at 21.5 degrees when it's on the floor, if I lift it back onto the table it reads the temperature as 23.5 - 24 . I can't believe that 18 inches could make such a difference (y)
 
My experience is from Truma, but will most likely be the same with any other blown air heater. Might also including systems like Alde, but as they are slower to react (heat) it's maybe not something affecting those kinds of systems. I've been meaning to write this years ago, but now as I've had the same problem (and fix) on two diffrent vans, I may really be on to something so I thought I'd share this now.

Our previous PVC was a Hymer 2011 with 4kw gas Truma. In the autumn when the temperatures started to be around 0c I noticed that heating was kind of shit. Especially the hysteresis was enormous, I believe it was even up to 5 degrees. Meaning the temperature fell very low before the heater started to do what it's meant to. Also, every time something was cooked, the heater went to low power or even shut down completely. Everone knows how quick you get the chills if it's 0c outside ant the heater decides to take a break.

Our current van is a Hymer PVC 2024 with a 6kw diesel Truma, and even before we got it I noticed on youtube videos that yep, same idiotic design still. When the van came and summer turned in to autumn, the same idiotic behaviour of the heater. Exactly the same problem as with the previous one. I was furious even if I knew it was coming. Why do they keep doing it this way!

With the first van I quite quickly thought it has to do with the placement of the temperature sensor. It was above the sliding door (LHD, slide on the right) and when you cook something the heat goes there and the heater think it's warm and no need to heat. Also, as warm air goes up, the heater was satisfied with it's work eventhough there was much colder on the lower level. At this point I also noticed that some manufacturers place the sensor significantly lower, and that's what I ended up doing.

Took the sensor away from the original place up high and placed much lower and oh my god. It was like a completely new heating system! Temperature stayed much more constant and cooking made no difference any more. Naturally when you're boiling potatoes for 45 minutes the temperature goes slightly up but that's much easier to deal with. The much more even heating did increase the gas consumption quite noticeably, but I never thought of reverting back to the old system.

And as with the new van, even sillyer design. The sensor was just behind and above the driver's head, so in addition to the same problems as with the older, this also made the heater to usually turn off while driving as the sensor got heat from the car's heater and thought all ok no need to heat. That then leads the living area getting cold as well as all the water systems. With this van there were slight problems with the modification so I ended up getting it done only in February, and oh boy was I pissed on my trips until then. But when I got it done, it's been pure perfection ever since.

So, if your heater doesn't work quite as you'd expect and the temp sensor is high above, you might consider this. Just make sure it's positioned that way that it doesn't get any direct - or hopefully not even indirect - heat blown in to it, that way it's probably going to get even worse :-) In the picture you can see the approximate positions I've used. The green is the new one, didn't really want to go that low but it was the easiest place to try so I went for it and works just fine.

And yes I'm pretty sure there are people who have their sensors high and feel it works just great, guess the manufacturers wouldn't keep doing that if it didn't work. But from my experience I don't get it.

View attachment 1028652
How did run a connection down to the seats as shown? What did you do to fill the hole that was left afterwards
 
How did run a connection down to the seats as shown? What did you do to fill the hole that was left afterwards
You could keep the defunct thermostat in place so no hole and a new one for lower level would be about £20
 
Where did you take the wiring from. I was thinking of doing this but my sensor is on the opposite side of the Motorhome to where I want to put it.
Yup, me too... Also need some more info of how to get to the Offset on the control panel. I know where it is but having owned it for 9 years I have never used anything but the standard stuff without going into area where this is and a bit of help for a 70 year old...
 
So not really the fault of the heater but simply down to converters putting the sensor in stupid places. Put it high and you are going to get a problem. Put it lower down (eg below the cooker burner levels and distanced from the heater outlets) and you'll be fine and not have the heater going off every time you cook something. It's very easy really - all you need to know is that heat rises!
 
Hey. When you have spent the last 10 years in a Ford transit with no heating whatsoever. Anything that Truma blows at me in the new van is fine by me .... :giggle:

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