Hymer habitation electrics

The engine battery if it starts the vehicle isn’t knackered usually, however if it has been left to go flat and is 4 years old ish, I would replace it as they have a habit of suddenly dying in the colder weather.

A heavily discharged habitation battery might pull more than 50 amps on an unregulated split charge so it wouldn’t surprise me if it was the cause if the engine was running, especially as you have 2 hab batteries.

If the van starts though, the starter battery should be good. 👍
 
Thanks googlebot👍 engine battery ok as starts easily. New hab batteries arriving today, so will swap out and see what happens. Needs to warm up a bit first though😂 brrrrr!
 
Thanks googlebot👍 engine battery ok as starts easily. New hab batteries arriving today, so will swap out and see what happens. Needs to warm up a bit first though😂 brrrrr!
Tell me about it. 🥶 👍
 
Hi Guys
Been a while, but here’s the update!

Replaced both hab batteries with like for like, Varta Hobby 110 ah.

Followed the correct procedure.

All appeared good, control panel fired up and all 12 volts resumed operation, thought I was a happy chappy! However, this might be something, or maybe not, perhaps one of you knowledgeable people can assist me here?

My leisure batteries are currently showing 12.5v on the control panel, and I am not hooked up to ehu. It has been sunny and when I check the solar input on the panel it is reading 0.
I have put a meter across the plug that goes into the electrobloc from the solar control and it is reading 9.5 volts input. However it is showing 0 on the panel?

Am I being a bit dim or does the voltage in the batteries have to drop further before the electrobloc starts to input solar to the batteries?

Before I had the issue with the old batteries everything worked fine, so nothing has really changed?

Do you think there might be a problem with the electrobloc? Hope you can help guys?
Thanks for all previous assistance. This is such a brilliant site with very knowledgeable people as members😁
 
Electroblock us a straight though connect on the more sophisticated ones it may go via a shunt. So it should read the same as the output of the solar controller, 13.6v to 13.8v on float or up to 14.2v when charging.

If the batteries are fully charged they should be at 12.7 to 12.9v or up to 14.2v if receiving a charge from the solar.

Best to measure the voltages directly on the batteries with a multimeter and check voltage going into and out of the solar controller.

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