HUAWEI 4G+ Router on 12volt

[autorouter]

Years ago when we had our old Hymer, I was looking at buying a voltage stabiliser to protect our 12v LED TV. It was then that I was advised that apparently the MH electrics on Hymer group vehicles (Schaudt) has voltage stabilising built in, as was reverse polarity sensing, which protected both the electrics and the occupants.

Not sure how accurate that info is, but as you are a Hymer owner, it might be worth looking into, before purchasing unnecessarily.

Some Hymers have voltage stabilisation on the mains input, to protect the charger from grid supply surges. They call it OVP (OverVoltageProtection). Unfortunately the 12V supply is just like any other, and varies from 11 to nearly 15V on a regular basis, as the batteries are being charged.

 

[OldAgeTravellers]

Sounds like you need some regulation
Like this
Takes a DC input & puts out 12v DC from it. Even if the input is a low 10v DC or high 36v DC

Sorry kevenh I somehow missed your post and opened Manics one instead. That looks a nice unit. A bit more expensive but stabilised and should be good for the HUAWEI especially as I want to have it on 24/7. It just looks like bare wires so will have to find the correct plug to fit the router. Thanks for posting.
Steve

 

[Manic]

HUAWEI especially as I want to have it on 24/7.

If having on 24/7 you maybe better looking at something like this.
<Broken link removed>

 

[OldAgeTravellers]

If having on 24/7 you maybe better looking at something like this.
<Broken link removed>

Thanks but see post 1, that’s what I have. Great 4G router with a phone connection.

 

[OldAgeTravellers]

Just done some searching and it seems to be a 5.5 x 2.1mm barrel plug on the B535.

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[kevenh]

Sorry kevenh I somehow missed your post and opened Manics one instead. That looks a nice unit. A bit more expensive but stabilised and should be good for the HUAWEI especially as I want to have it on 24/7. It just looks like bare wires so will have to find the correct plug to fit the router. Thanks for posting.
Steve

No worries.
My idea has quite a specific input & output voltage range.
That is a match to your intended use, imo.
But Manic's box is pretty flexible.
As it happens, due to an MHF member's generosity I now have that one to try out.
It is pretty flexible. My 1st test was to take a 6vDC input to have the gadget become a USB charger for an iPhone.
Need to get into the MH to try some 12v applications...

 

[Manic]

Thanks but see post 1, that’s what I have. Great 4G router with a phone connection.

Oh yes sorry forgot that, was just suggestion from previous reply.
Thats what I’m going to use, its working real well in house and hopefully when my antenna arrives today it will be working well in the van

 

[autorouter]

That is a match to your intended use, imo.
But Manic's box is pretty flexible.
As it happens, due to an MHF member's generosity I now have that one to try out.
It is pretty flexible. My 1st test was to take a 6vDC input to have the gadget become a USB charger for an iPhone.
Need to get into the MH to try some 12v applications...

I notice that the box in Manic's post is a step-down regulator, but the one in kevenh's post is step up and down.

A step-down regulator will have difficulty supplying 12.0V from a supply that is less than about 12.4V. It needs some voltage headroom (aka dropout). You may not notice this because the voltage will rarely drop below the minimum, but if you are doing tests, you could include a test for that.

A step up and down regulator will output 12.0V whatever the input voltage is, provided it is within the specified range. They are a bit more expensive than a simple step-up or step-down regulator. If you wanted 5V (USB) or 19V (laptop) you could choose a step-down or step-up type, but because you want 12V you might need the step up and down type.

In some ads, step-down = buck, step-up = boost, and step up and down = buck-boost.

 

[OldAgeTravellers]

Oh yes sorry forgot that, was just suggestion from previous reply.
Thats what I’m going to use, its working real well in house and hopefully when my antenna arrives today it will be working well in the van

Yes my Mimo-3-V2-12 with the 2mt cable arrives tomorrow hopefully. The one with the 30cm cable that I wanted is obsolete it appears. Got a good price from 4Gon antennas.
where we are quarantining is a mobile black hole. But luckily can connect to sons Wi-Fi
the HUAWEI B535 was so good on the journey from France with great telephone connectivity and 4G that I am now reluctant to be without it.
Without antenna I am getting zero bars at the moment be interesting to see what the Antenna does.
I found this interesting article by Poynting which bears out what Lenny HB was saying.
will compare notes when it’s done. I just need somebody to go to Screwfix to get me a 22mm hole saw! Grovel to daughter in-law I think
Steve

 

[OldAgeTravellers]

Right, I have investigated the best position fo access to the tech cupboard which will put the Mimo-3 about 20cm from an aluminium framed solar panel and about 40cm from the Oyster satellite dish. The van is aluminium skinned so there is an added ground plane. I can’t see the solar panel being a problem but the sat dish is a big bit of metal a bit higher than the antenna. Any thoughts? It would obviously be better in the middle of the van but that would mean trunking across the ceiling which would be awful.
The other possibility is to put it on the other side of the van above the Wardrobe. I can get power from the Hymer panel or Trauma but can’t then use Ethernet cables if Inwant to at any time.
All comments welcome.
Steve

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[Manic]

Yes my Mimo-3-V2-12 with the 2mt cable arrives tomorrow hopefully. The one with the 30cm cable that I wanted is obsolete it appears. Got a good price from 4Gon antennas.
where we are quarantining is a mobile black hole. But luckily can connect to sons Wi-Fi
the HUAWEI B535 was so good on the journey from France with great telephone connectivity and 4G that I am now reluctant to be without it.
Without antenna I am getting zero bars at the moment be interesting to see what the Antenna does.
I found this interesting article by Poynting which bears out what Lenny HB was saying.
will compare notes when it’s done. I just need somebody to go to Screwfix to get me a 22mm hole saw! Grovel to daughter in-law I think
Steve

I also got a good deal from Solwise, I ordered the cheaper version( with less fixing options and 300 mm cables), which I knew was out of stock but didn’t mind waiting but then Solwise emailed to say poynting are no longer doing that one so offered the dearer one with 2 m cables and gave me £16 discount for trouble

 

[OldAgeTravellers]

I also got a good deal from Solwise, I ordered the cheaper version( with less fixing options and 300 mm cables), which I knew was out of stock but didn’t mind waiting but then Solwise emailed to say poynting are no longer doing that one so offered the dearer one with 2 m cables and gave me £16 discount for trouble

I was going to order from them but they have taken the 300mm version off the website today so found 4Gonwho did it for £127 Hope they are next day.

 

[Lenny HB]

Right, I have investigated the best position fo access to the tech cupboard which will put the Mimo-3 about 20cm from an aluminium framed solar panel and about 40cm from the Oyster satellite dish. The van is aluminium skinned so there is an added ground plane. I can’t see the solar panel being a problem but the sat dish is a big bit of metal a bit higher than the antenna. Any thoughts? It would obviously be better in the middle of the van but that would mean trunking across the ceiling which would be awful.
The other possibility is to put it on the other side of the van above the Wardrobe. I can get power from the Hymer panel or Trauma but can’t then use Ethernet cables if Inwant to at any time.
All comments welcome.
Steve

How about having a play with the aerial in the garden, put it on a table and put a dustbin or similar big bit of metal near it and see if it makes a difference, providing you can get a signal.
If you mounted it above the wardrobe couldn't you run an ethernet cable down under the double floor to somewhere near where you might need it.

 

[OldAgeTravellers]

How about having a play with the aerial in the garden, put it on a table and put a dustbin or similar big bit of metal near it and see if it makes a difference, providing you can get a signal.
If you mounted it above the wardrobe couldn't you run an ethernet cable down under the double floor to somewhere near where you might need it.

Good thinking Lenny.

 

[Manic]

I was going to order from them but they have taken the 300mm version off the website today so found 4Gonwho did it for £127 Hope they are next day.

That’s what I got the dearer version for from Solwise.

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[autorouter]

Right, I have investigated the best position fo access to the tech cupboard which will put the Mimo-3 about 20cm from an aluminium framed solar panel and about 40cm from the Oyster satellite dish. The van is aluminium skinned so there is an added ground plane. I can’t see the solar panel being a problem but the sat dish is a big bit of metal a bit higher than the antenna. Any thoughts? It would obviously be better in the middle of the van but that would mean trunking across the ceiling which would be awful.
The other possibility is to put it on the other side of the van above the Wardrobe. I can get power from the Hymer panel or Trauma but can’t then use Ethernet cables if Inwant to at any time.
All comments welcome.

I seem to remember from fitting mine that it said a ground plane wasn't actually necessary, but 400mm ground plane would be of some benefit. So I think as long as it is 20cm or more from the edge it won't make much difference.

 

[DBK]

Right, I have investigated the best position fo access to the tech cupboard which will put the Mimo-3 about 20cm from an aluminium framed solar panel and about 40cm from the Oyster satellite dish. The van is aluminium skinned so there is an added ground plane. I can’t see the solar panel being a problem but the sat dish is a big bit of metal a bit higher than the antenna. Any thoughts? It would obviously be better in the middle of the van but that would mean trunking across the ceiling which would be awful.
The other possibility is to put it on the other side of the van above the Wardrobe. I can get power from the Hymer panel or Trauma but can’t then use Ethernet cables if Inwant to at any time.
All comments welcome.
Steve

Have you got some Sikaflex to stick it down? I suspect the spigot on the bottom may not be long enough to reach all the way through the roof. I didn't have this problem with my PVC but you might with a roof made with a sandwich construction.

 

[autorouter]

My Poynting antenna came with a small bag of bits that included an extended spigot, long enough to go through the Hymer roof.

Also came with 2 small adapters for the aerial connectors. Wifi antennae are usually a slightly different type to the standard sockets, and these adapters were needed to fit them. Technically, the connectors on the wires were standard SMA, but the connectors on the router were RP SMA. They look very similar at first glance, but there is a definite difference.

 

[DBK]

My Poynting antenna came with a small bag of bits that included an extended spigot, long enough to go through the Hymer roof.

Also came with 2 small adapters for the aerial connectors. Wifi antennae are usually a slightly different type to the standard sockets, and these adapters were needed to fit them. Technically, the connectors on the wires were standard SMA, but the connectors on the router were RP SMA. They look very similar at first glance, but there is a definite difference.

The spigot extender is a new thing I think. But it probably needs a drill bigger than 22mm.

 

[Manic]

The spigot extender is a new thing I think. But it probably needs a drill bigger than 22mm.

Yes they did one with 18 mm thread and 300 mm cable but they don’t do that anymore and now it comes with 2m cable and two spigot lengths, the long ones 60 mm.

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