How to Use a Multimeter to Test Power in PSU to Boiler

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I want to test below but not certain which settings I should use and which holes to plug cables into on Multimeter (Image attached)

1. 12 Cable from PSU to boiler to see if I have 12 Volt power
2. 3.15 Am Fuse
3. 10 amp fuse
 

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I would use the 20v setting and test the ends of the wire, looking for a reading around 12v + if power is on.
the continuity setting for fuses
always have the probes in the outer ports on mine but your pictures show probes in middle and right. Some useful YouTube videos out there.

im sure someone with more accurate info will be along soon

happy to be schooled and learn if wrong
 
Last edited:
I would use the 20v setting and test the ends of the wire, looking for a reading around 12v + if power is on.
the continuity setting for fuses
always have the probes in the outer ports on mine but your pictures show probes in middle and right. Some useful YouTube videos out there.

im sure someone with more accurate info will be along soon

happy to be schooled and learn if wrong
Thank you so much

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If checking current don't forget to put your leads back to the other connections after before checking volts otherwise you will blow a internal fuse. A easy mistake to make
 
When you say check the fuses you can only as far as I'm aware test whether the fuse has blown or is still usable you can't check it's rating. Unless someone knows different
 
Thanks, I have attached image as not sure which is positive and which is negative? and the fuse I wanted to test is the 3.15 amp one in green box Tried about 5 now thinking this is problem in getting no power to Alde control panel? Appreciate help so far

PSU to Boiler.jpg
 
In the PSU I took out fuse in bay no 4 which said was heating fuse and red light came on. Went off again when I replaced but stillnothing on control panel so trying to establish if Fuse, PCB or panel itself. Probably a trip to Alde northants if I cant solve problem
 
Thanks, I have attached image as not sure which is positive and which is negative? and the fuse I wanted to test is the 3.15 amp one in green box Tried about 5 now thinking this is problem in getting no power to Alde control panel? Appreciate help so far

View attachment 848752
Alde heating way above my experience. Shouldn’t matter which probe goes to which wire, you will just get a negative reading one way round and positive the other. As said above, if you get continuity across a fuse then it should be working at its rating.

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In the PSU I took out fuse in bay no 4 which said was heating fuse and red light came on. Went off again when I replaced but stillnothing on control panel so trying to establish if Fuse, PCB or panel itself. Probably a trip to Alde northants if I cant solve problem
I would say not a fuse issue. You appear to be going down the right fault finding path. Don’t give up but may need alde experts, sorry.
 
At my level of expertise if the fuses are ok I'd take it to alde or at least phone for advice.
If one of the fuses has blown id probably swap it once but if it blows again go to alde.
 
Thanks, I have attached image as not sure which is positive and which is negative? and the fuse I wanted to test is the 3.15 amp one in green box Tried about 5 now thinking this is problem in getting no power to Alde control panel? Appreciate help so far

View attachment 848752
In this image the white and orange cable should be negative.

In the PSU I took out fuse in bay no 4 which said was heating fuse and red light came on. Went off again when I replaced but stillnothing on control panel so trying to establish if Fuse, PCB or panel itself. Probably a trip to Alde northants if I cant solve problem
If the fuse failure light (red light) came on when you removed the fuse, as has been said above its probably not the fuse.

The control panel doesn't have its own power supply it is fed via the red cable seen in your picture above.
 
In this image the white and orange cable should be negative.


If the fuse failure light (red light) came on when you removed the fuse, as has been said above its probably not the fuse.

The control panel doesn't have its own power supply it is fed via the red cable seen in your picture above.
Thank you, just waiting amazon multimeter and I can at lease verify that power is going to Boiler. If it is then assume PCB, Control panel or both? Thanks again
 
Have you tried the trick of warming the control panel for an hour or so - they're susceptible to moisture apparently.....

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Have you tried the trick of warming the control panel for an hour or so - they're susceptible to moisture apparently.....
Worth a go, thank you just off to detach it. Cheers
 
Last thing for the moment, if I take the red wire out of control panel, is there a device that can check if power is actually coming through at Panel end? Looks like to telephone wire connection ?
 
Thank you, just waiting amazon multimeter and I can at lease verify that power is going to Boiler. If it is then assume PCB, Control panel or both? Thanks again
Last thing for the moment, if I take the red wire out of control panel, is there a device that can check if power is actually coming through at Panel end? Looks like to telephone wire connection ?
 
Last thing for the moment, if I take the red wire out of control panel, is there a device that can check if power is actually coming through at Panel end? Looks like to telephone wire connection ?

I'd leave that if you don't know what it's for, sounds like sensor connections or signals. The multimeter won't tell you much anyway.
 
Checking for voltage, if it's your first time check the voltage straight across the battery. Red to pos and black to neg. This will give you a reading of somewhere around 12.7v if you have the meter set and the leads in the right place. If you get a -ve reading then the leads are reversed. This will prove you have it set correctly and give you confidence that you are using it correctly. You can check fuses in situ by taking your black lead, connecting it to any earth/neg which could be the battery neg or any part of the chassis then put the red probe on one side of the fuse you should see 12.7v again then test the other side. With a good fuse you will see 12.7v on both sides of the fuse. Now go to your plug and try for voltage across the 2 wires. You should see 12.7v again. If you don't then you have to prove that the neg/earth is good and prove the pos side is good. Normally the neg side is good unless there's a wiring fault as it isn't fused. All of this is done using the volts scale on the meter.

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You can check for power by using a lamp in a holder (or solder the wires directly to a low wattage tail light or indicator bulb.
Even though I have a multimeter, it's sometimes easier to use a test lamp, especially if you're working over a bit of a distance or working a remote switch ?
20231228_110359.jpg
 
Worth a go, thank you just off to detach it. Cheers
Didnt work still I did also replace again the 3.15 amp fuse but to no avail. On the main command interface panel it states HEATER PANEL BUSY whatever that means. Just waiting for multimetere to arrive and see if I am actually getting power from PSU to boiler so what that first step does Thank you
 
Have you tried the trick of warming the control panel for an hour or so - they're susceptible to moisture apparently.....
Didnt work still I did also replace again the 3.15 amp fuse but to no avail. On the main command interface panel it states HEATER PANEL BUSY whatever that means. Just waiting for multimetere to arrive and see if I am actually getting power from PSU to boiler so what that first step does Thank you
 
Didnt work still I did also replace again the 3.15 amp fuse but to no avail. On the main command interface panel it states HEATER PANEL BUSY whatever that means. Just waiting for multimetere to arrive and see if I am actually getting power from PSU to boiler so what that first step does Thank you
Oh well, worth a try - it would need a while to dry if it is damp though

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Oh well, worth a try - it would need a while to dry if it is damp though
Appreciate help. Its a brand new panel from 5th December and seems perfectly dry. Lets see what testing happens from PSU to boiler. My first step later today when amazon get here. Thanks again Steve
 
Appreciate help. Its a brand new panel from 5th December and seems perfectly dry. Lets see what testing happens from PSU to boiler. My first step later today when amazon get here. Thanks again Steve
Good luck with it - hopefully it will be a simple issue and not the PSU
 
Good luck with it - hopefully it will be a simple issue and not the PSU
Someone somewhere will probably just click or push a button and it will be back on. Im a computer man but electrics do my head in :) everything was fine a week ago?
 
Could try this guy (off a different forum)

Don't know who Alde UK have given you but the person I've used for parts is
Graham Cutmore 00441933622593.
He is ex Alde and superb, I'm in France and his service has always been excellent and very quick, nice guy to talk with as well.

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