How long to bring lithium battery back to life?

It sounds to me that the BMS has switched the battery off.

Most modern chargers will not charge if they do not find a connected battery.

Some, however, have a clever facility called Power Supply Mode which will charge even if there no battery there.

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Such a charger will charge your battery from totally flat.

I accept this post may not be of immediate help if you have not got such a charger. But, all is not lost if you have a good old fashioned dumb charger from the last millenium. One of those will also get you going again.
 
LithiumConvert said:
I accept this post may not be of immediate help if you have not got such a charger. But, all is not lost if you have a good old fashioned dumb charger from the last millenium. One of those will also get you going again.
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It is a good suggestion.
Another “easy” way to kick off the charging is to connect a 2nd battery in parallel (even using jumper leads). The charger then sees 12v and kicks in.

However, the massive variation between the Battery Protect and the Shunt has me wondering. Actually solved a similar issue yesterday for someone where it was a simple blown fuse. The solar provided limited power on the one side of the fuse and the BMS reported a different voltage at the battery (on the other side of the blown fuse).

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RogerIvy said:
It is a good suggestion.
Another “easy” way to kick off the charging is to connect a 2nd battery in parallel (even using jumper leads). The charger then sees 12v and kicks in.

However, the massive variation between the Battery Protect and the Shunt has me wondering. Actually solved a similar issue yesterday for someone where it was a simple blown fuse. The solar provided limited power on the one side of the fuse and the BMS reported a different voltage at the battery (on the other side of the blown fuse).
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:eek:
 
I have messaged Gary and suggested to connect a charger directly on the battery terminals.
The battery protect was not programmed properly, and unfortunately now is on a voltage recovery lock out. Until it hits that value, it will not unlock, by puting a charger on the battery, it may take a charge. As the bms has cut the discharge, it still has voltage on charge port so a charger should see it. If not, as Roger suggested, another battery in parallel. Its all down to the bms if it takes the battery voltage.
My feeling is a victron managed battery and will depend on various system parameters. But, if is a battery with internal bms it will wake up with another battery in parallel.
I also suggested to check the fuses on the sensing wires, the little glass poxy things.
 
My Relion Li battery instructions said to jump start the battery if it got to this level of lockout. May be different for Victron but it ties in with what the experts have been suggesting.
 
Raul said:
I have messaged Gary and suggested to connect a charger directly on the battery terminals.
The battery protect was not programmed properly, and unfortunately now is on a voltage recovery lock out. Until it hits that value, it will not unlock, by puting a charger on the battery, it may take a charge. As the bms has cut the discharge, it still has voltage on charge port so a charger should see it. If not, as Roger suggested, another battery in parallel. Its all down to the bms if it takes the battery voltage.
My feeling is a victron managed battery and will depend on various system parameters. But, if is a battery with internal bms it will wake up with another battery in parallel.
I also suggested to check the fuses on the sensing wires, the little glass poxy things.
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Like you I have suspicions that something in the setup or configuration is wrong. If wired correctly and everything working as designed the Battery Protect should have stopped the discharge.
Anyway, again like you I’ve been communicating with Gary over messages, and he’s confirmed that the battery itself is very low voltage so probably US.

The thing with Victron batteries is that if wired or configured incorrectly you may never know it if you never discharge fully. Maybe, just maybe Gary has never allowed the battery to completely discharge and now it’s happened ….
 
RogerIvy said:
Like you I have suspicions that something in the setup or configuration is wrong. If wired correctly and everything working as designed the Battery Protect should have stopped the discharge.
Anyway, again like you I’ve been communicating with Gary over messages, and he’s confirmed that the battery itself is very low voltage so probably US.

The thing with Victron batteries is that if wired or configured incorrectly you may never know it if you never discharge fully. Maybe, just maybe Gary has never allowed the battery to completely discharge and now it’s happened ….
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I have resuscitated a inactive battery, bypassing the bms, with the help of a bench power supply. Set CV to 3.2v and current to 1A, as the voltage moves few milivolts up, increase the current to 2A. This is done manually on each cell, till all read 2.8v or 3v. Then re connect the negative bms lead. It will wake up. After that review and correct the bms settings so this does not happen again.
Today I had to balance couple of 48v banks. One had a runner at 3.55v while the rest was at barely 3.4v. I hooked up two car headlights on a cable, and manually bled the high cells till voltage difference came bellow 40-50mv. Then let the active balancer do the rest.
On charging is the reverse, you have to jolt them with a power supply, or with a half charged spare cell in parallel. Just use two wires a meter and plenty of patience.
 
I read Fun everyday.
It educates, makes me laugh, makes me cry, sometimes annoys (not often)
I love informed opinions on current affairs, finance and politics, all the members with opposing views that post everyday with no bad language and very little vitriol, just great.

BUT threads like this is what I like the most
well informed funsters helping other members with thumb sucking, head scratching problems.

Thanks to Gav61 for starting this thread and
a big thankyou to all involved in Motorhome FUN :giggle:

Just to add a PS
The moral here is do not lend your pride and joy to anyone, far too many systems for the uninitiated to handle and break :giggle:
 
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Thank you for your kind words. And thanking everyone on this forum....it is 100% brilliant and helpful.
RogerIvy and Raul have excelled (y)
I've also noted that the gap between basic understanding ie early learning and PHd level is massive.
And yes lending things to others comes with it's risks! Luckily they all returned safely!:hugs:
 
Just for info and update.
RogerIvy has been amazing.
so helpful and kind this am.
we're currently sitting in sunshine near Portsmouth wailting for ferry tomorrow to St Malo.
New battery and bags of confidence.
Currently charging on ehu nicely.

There are many converters of vans out there but the specialist knowledge of an effective and efficient battery/electrics system is few and far between.
Big shout out for Off Grid Power Solutions .....A1.:Grin:

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Gav61 Do I understand correctly from your post #45 that you now have a new battery?
At 6.2v post #42, the cells will be damaged and not safe to charge.
The BMS should cut output at approximately 1.9v per cell and lock out completely about 1.7v per cell. Once they get to 1.4v/cell they should not be charged.
 
Drum Major said:
This is why I love Motorhome fun great advice from great funsters (y)
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TaH.....thinks I having a romance on the Internet!!!
There is much good stuff from so many people....but so little time to keep up with the chatter.....it's great!!
Keep it up people of the MH and Camper world:clap:

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Raul said:
I have messaged Gary and suggested to connect a charger directly on the battery terminals.
The battery protect was not programmed properly, and unfortunately now is on a voltage recovery lock out. Until it hits that value, it will not unlock, by puting a charger on the battery, it may take a charge. As the bms has cut the discharge, it still has voltage on charge port so a charger should see it. If not, as Roger suggested, another battery in parallel. Its all down to the bms if it takes the battery voltage.
My feeling is a victron managed battery and will depend on various system parameters. But, if is a battery with internal bms it will wake up with another battery in parallel.
I also suggested to check the fuses on the sensing wires, the little glass poxy things.
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Do i remember you mentioning that those little glass poxy things should be replaced with slightly higher ones but i cant remember what the exact spec was you suggested
 
PeterCarole29 said:
Do i remember you mentioning that those little glass poxy things should be replaced with slightly higher ones but i cant remember what the exact spec was you suggested
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If it’s a 100ma fitted ( default fitment), change to 1A, even if the fuse is rated to 250v AC , as long as it’s 1A.
The shunt accuracy will improve even more with the 1A fuse, due to lower resistance, because that feed wire is used for voltage sensing as well. This recommendation was pushed by victron stuff on their forum.
 
Glad you got sorted but even more glad I stuck with gels when I replaced my batteries 🤔

Who fitted yours, surprised these questions were not fired in that direction first it all sounds quite new 🤔
 
What’s a shunt? Still learning! Having an extra panel fitted today so starting to dip our toes into better off grid capabilities.
 
TheMachMan said:
What’s a shunt? Still learning! Having an extra panel fitted today so starting to dip our toes into better off grid capabilities.
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It’s a device that is fitted to the battery negative connection that can measure everything going in and out and therefore tell you exactly what level your battery is at.
 

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