Horse lorry to camper.. in 4 months

[tacr2man]

Snug fit is ok , you only need as much sealant as there is gap to seal , I take it you are using means other than just sealant to fix door frame ?

 

[Jamesh]

Where did you get the door?

Looks neat?

Are you leaving the frame in primer and fitting sides. Might be worth giving them the final coat before installing the side panels? But I'm sure you have thought it through.

Good work....

Looking forward to another build myself.

Cheers James

 

[NopocketAces]

Thanks for the comments! Snug fit it will be then! I was going to fill the voids with sikaflex and there appears to be screwholes in the internal frame so am assuming these are for a further fixing on the inside. Frame will be painted this week in the orginal blue... yes, before the final panel fit. However still havent decided if the look will be OK with blue verticals and a white panel. I suppose I will have to wait and see and then if it looks crap, get some mad street art collective a few cans of spray paint and let them go mad.....

 

[Jamesh]

Another just a thought.

Could you put some white triangle section prices at the bottom of each bay so that muck dosen't get a chance to hang around? Or even some clear sealant / glue at a bevel?

Cheers James

 

[NopocketAces]

HI James

Not sure what you mean by traingle sections. In between the verticals is clear so water/muck will drop straight off...no lip to get anything caught. I will seal each panel against the verticals and to the rebated floor section with loads of sealant/adhesive to fully seal the join. if this doesn't work or it looks like not a good join then a right angle aluminium section will go over the join.... just got to see what it comes out like when the panels are glued into place

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[Jamesh]

I'm guessing the frame work is outside the grp sheets. And much might sit on the bottom of each bay.

Cheers James

 

[NopocketAces]

Framework is outside the sheets but is like a ribcage so no metalwork extends outside the verticals - I'll post a photo to show what I mean..

 

[Minxy]

Is it just me from the description of what the exterior will look like who is thinking 'mock Tudor'?

I can't quite visualise what the finished look is going to be ... will the metal be totally expose on the exterior or sheeted?

 

[NopocketAces]

No, metal will be totally exposed, like a whales skeleton! I cant envisage it either so might be buying more grp sheeting to cover up the look... at least I will be able to get another 25 mm of insulation in between the ribs if I do that.... and have nice window sills..

 

[Minxy]

No, metal will be totally exposed, like a whales skeleton! I cant envisage it either so might be buying more grp sheeting to cover up the look... at least I will be able to get another 25 mm of insulation in between the ribs if I do that.... and have nice window sills..

I think if you don't cover the metal work you will be giving yourself a headache in the future when it starts to deteriorate and needs repair, putting on another sheet of GRP with insulation between the metal will certainly give you a nice cosy MH, of course you'll need to decide what to do about your door though so don't go fixing it in the existing wall panel yet, same with the windows - windowsills are very useful!

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[Jamesh]

Is it just me from the description of what the exterior will look like who is thinking 'mock Tudor'?

I can't quite visualise what the finished look is going to be ... will the metal be totally expose on the exterior or sheeted?

Like horse boxes always were I guess to make them clear to muck out!

Cheers James

 

[NopocketAces]

Got to get everything in to see what it looks like! If I did decide to skin over the metal frame I could just edge in a sill for the door and windows - they are tight to the cut out slots in the frame but not tight enough to cause a problem with a sill. Really dont want to go down that route anyway if I can avoid it so if you see me on the road in July, A, you will know its me and B, I am a skinflint for not doing it!

The ribs were in superb condition conisdering the box is 27 years old so hopefully they will last for a bit longer without deterioration..

 

[NopocketAces]

Has anyone fitted Sietz s4 windows to a wall over the recommended width of 26mm? My walls are 30mm and it says I need a 4mm h x 7mm w insert inside the two frames, obviously to allow the inner and outer to be separated. However, if I am using inserts in the wall for support all around the windows, why do I need a fiddly 4mm x 7mm insert? My skills don't go as far as 4 x7 mm!

 

[Raul]

The insert is to make the reveal deeper without separation gap. What I did on double skin is make the outside opening to fit the outside frame, and the inside skin bigger to take the inside frame in the opening. I used 24mm batten sandwiched, and then made the reveal around the inside frame with wall board. It gives a nice depth window cill.

 

[NopocketAces]

Thanks Raul
Have you got a photo so I can visualise. I think the difference I have got is a single 30mm composite panel so cant cut the different cut out sizes. I am thinking there is no real need for the insert if I dont mind the inner frame butting against the wall - the strength of the wall inserts should proved enough stability and not crush the two halves together... or is the whole point not to have the inner frame touching the inside wall.

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[Raul]

I will take a photo tomorrow. In your case you may need to rebate the inside opening to allow inner frame to reach outside frame. If they don’t meet, there will be a gap all around on 4 reveals. Otherwise you will need the kit to allow thicker sandwich between the frames.

 

[NopocketAces]

Many thanks for your help Raul!

 

[Raul]

I took some photos, I’m underneath a tree, light is not brilliant, but I think you will see the idea.

 

[NopocketAces]

Brilliant-- understand now... thank you very much for the effort!

 

[NopocketAces]

OK 1st side panel in! and the windows and doors fit...Just added 2 more batteries after everyones advice...many thanks... now got 440Ah so hopefully non one will come back and tell me to go for more!

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[NopocketAces]

B*****cks.!!.. fitting the Fiamma Aqua F pump to the undercarriage and dropped it... broke the BSP water inlet ,,, anybody have any ideas if they do spares,,,? It is the one piece on the various websites which does not have a part number and Fiamma ain't responding to emails! Not a great day but managed to weld a new battery tray and rubbed down the red oxide on t'other side of the beast for painting and cut the the bulkhead panel ready for fitting once the framework is painted.

 

[Landy Andy]

Stick a pic up of what you’ve broken.

 

[NopocketAces]

That was a struggle on a Mac.. but here it is...
Thanks

 

[Lenny HB]

Any help.

Awning Spares

Awning Spares

www.fiammastore.com

Fiamma Pump Spares For Sale at The Fiamma Centre

Fiamma Pump Spares For Sale at The Fiamma Centre, The UK Fiamma Supplier

www.thefiammacentre.co.uk

 

[NopocketAces]

Had a look at that and the part is listed but as a whole unit rather than just the inlet/outlet .. and not sure if it fits the Aqua F... I'll give them a ring in the morning... Thanks

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[Landy Andy]

cant see that part listed separately although you can buy an “upgrade kit” that has a new head as part of it.
13litre version

Login

www.fiamma.it

10litre version

Login

www.fiamma.it

 

[NopocketAces]

Thanks Landy Andy... the 13 upgrade is almost the same price as the pump but the Aqua 10 might fit the 13 model which I have! And what does an upgrade kit do.. is it worth having anyway... looks likely a wifi something....

 

[Landy Andy]

I couldn’t workout what the upgrade kit did.

 

[NopocketAces]

I know...no infomration anywhere on it! Anybody else got one... and still trying to figure out what it does!

 

[Landy Andy]

You need to find someone who is doing the upgrade and get the bits they are removing.

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