Help with faulty tap on Hymer

[Toady]

The tap in the bathroom is not working and I believe the micro switch is faulty.

The kitchen tap is working and activating pump.

Please can you advise me on how to strip down tap to access micro switch.

I can see an Allan key screw on rear of tap.

I assume you remove hot/cold cap shown in pictures to access screw to dismantle tap?

Pictures attached.

Thanks

 

[jockaneezer]

I think you might also have to undo the two supply pipes underneath the sink and the big nut that holds the tap in place too ?
It's quite a while since I did mine, but access to the pipes was abysmal (yours doesn't look any easier either !)
Take a couple of pics with your phone's camera from underneath the sink to firstly check that one of the micro switch wires hasn't just worked loose at the crimped connection and also to check access to the nut and pipes. Sometimes the pipes are just a push fit, but are held in place by a small (usually red) plastic clip that you have to pull out with long nose pliers first.

 

[Stealaway]

My one has the tap top fastened to the cartridge.
Then a screw on the chrome Piller (Allen screw?) is removed to slide the chrome body up and off, exposing the micro switch

 

[SandraL]

Microswitch in hymer tap

My kitchen tap mocroswitch has packed in and it's a right pain in the ass. Has anyone replaced one of these on a 2004 era hymer that can show me which type is fitted and how I access it. I'd rather get a new switch from somewhere before I remove tap etc

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

Does this thread help?

 

[Toady]

My one has the tap top fastened to the cartridge.
Then a screw on the chrome Piller (Allen screw?) is removed to slide the chrome body up and off, exposing the micro switch

Hi Stealaway,
Thank you. It looks like mine is the same.

Was the micro switch difficult to replace and can you remember where you ordered it from?

It looks like I will have to cut the cables beneath the sink and reconnect using chocolate box connectors.

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[Abgs]

My tap is slightly different but under the red blue hot cold indicator is a small hex bolt. The plastic cover pops off - I used a pin to lever it off.

I undid the hex and pulled the lever off. Then sprayed the micro switch with contact cleaner. That fixed it.

 

[Stealaway]

Hi Stealaway,
Thank you. It looks like mine is the same.

Was the micro switch difficult to replace and can you remember where you ordered it from?

It looks like I will have to cut the cables beneath the sink and reconnect using chocolate box connectors.

They are available on eBay for about £18. I managed to pulled out enough wire to make jiont with the wiring

 

[Toady]

My tap is slightly different but under the red blue hot cold indicator is a small hex bolt. The plastic cover pops off - I used a pin to lever it off.

I undid the hex and pulled the lever off. Then sprayed the micro switch with contact cleaner. That fixed it.

View attachment 609911View attachment 609912

Thanks for the advice. I will give that a go and get back to you

 

[Toady]

The van was booked in today for it’s annual damp check at Highbridge to ensure the warranty remains in place.

I asked them to fix the tap whilst in the workshop because the boss was nagging for it to be done ASAP.

Guess what? Van spent a few hours in the workshop but too busy to fix tap. Job for me I suppose.

 

[Toady]

Hi Guys,

I have managed to remove retaining screws in top and rear of tap but I cannot separate top section.

I advice would be much appreciated.

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[Abgs]

Hi Guys,

I have managed to remove retaining screws in top and rear of tap but I cannot separate top section.

I advice would be much appreciated.

Mine is a different tap but the top section pulled off once the retaining screw was removed. I did have to lever it apart with a plastic tool that I use to remove iPhone screens. Looks a bit like plectrum.

 

[Toady]

Mine is a different tap but the top section pulled off once the retaining screw was removed. I did have to lever it apart with a plastic tool that I use to remove iPhone screens. Looks a bit like plectrum.

Thanks Abgs

I have used some plastic tyre levers to lever it apart but whilst it has parted slightly, it will not split completely. I do not want to break the top section.

I am continuing to use some gentle persuasion.

I have posted on Hymer UK group as well.

Thanks again

 

[peterc10]

Hi Guys,

I have managed to remove retaining screws in top and rear of tap but I cannot separate top section.

I advice would be much appreciated.

If you feel the back of the tap close to the basin there is another little recessed screw. The problem is getting a screwdriver to it and I never did find out what head. That was because I got so frustrated trying in Portugal a few years ago I called in a mobile repair man to fix it for me.

 

[Toady]

If you feel the back of the tap close to the basin there is another little recessed screw. The problem is getting a screwdriver to it and I never did find out what head. That was because I got so frustrated trying in Portugal a few years ago I called in a mobile repair man to fix it for me.

Hi Peterc10,

Thank you for your advice. You were spot on.

I located recessed screw, unscrewed main nut holding tap in place and turned complete tap to access screw head.

Once I removed screw, the main tap cover was removed allowing me access to switch. The main pos cable had broken off at the micro switch.

I refitted cable and switch turned on. I am currently in the process of ensuring the broken cable is securely fastened before assembling the tap.

Thank everyone for your advice and guidance.

Few pics for your information

 

[Toady]

Screw head for info

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[Toady]

Unfortunately, due to the micro switch being so small, I was unable to solder pos cable back into switch or secure it by other means (glue or tape)

Such a faff stripping it down and reassembling.

I therefore bought two new switches off fleabay (one as spare) and hopefully I can complete the job by the weekend.

Unbelievable set up these micro switches. May consider fitting a shurflo pump in future.

 

[Lenny HB]

I have the same tap on my wash basin, wire broke off in the same place. I cut the plastic back around the connection, soldered the wire on then covered in epoxy glue. Incredably difficult getting the tap back together so the wires don't snag.
After several breakages I gave up and fitted a Shureflo pressure switched pump.

 

[Toady]

I have the same tap on my wash basin, wire broke off in the same place. I cut the plastic back around the connection, soldered the wire on then covered in epoxy glue. Incredably difficult getting the tap back together so the wires don't snag.
After several breakages I gave up and fitted a Shureflo pressure switched pump.

I tried the glue approach before moving on to solder. Nightmare! Especially when trying to reassemble the tap. Easy Peasy if there were no wires. Every time I reassembled tap the switch would work initially and then nothing.

I may pick your brains in due course in swapping over to Shureflo. Cannot understand why Hymer have not fitted Shureflo from the start.

I am going to try again with a new micro switch as I cannot let this thing beat me. Wish me luck!

 

[Lenny HB]

I may pick your brains in due course in swapping over to Shureflo. Cannot understand why Hymer have not fitted Shureflo from the start.

You trying to confuse us, your profile says you have a Pilote

I am going to try again with a new micro switch as I cannot let this thing beat me. Wish me luck!

You need more than luck, those taps are an awful design.
Also the screw that holds the lever on is unolated changed the screws in all 3 taps on mine for stainless.

 

[Lenny HB]

Fitting Shureflo to the Hymer.
Don't use a coloured hose for the pickup tube it grows algae, I changed it for white speedfit pipe.

Lenny's Modding the new Gin Palace

How long did it take you to move the steering wheel, gear knob and pedals. Thinking about doing that to my van so my wife can drive instead of me (y) I would complain you have been sold a duff van, proper German vans always come with the steering wheel on the left & a driver's door.:LOL:

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

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[Toady]

Hi Lenny,

Not updated profile yet. We now have a Hymer B704PL.

I agree, the screw was rusty and I am in the process of renewing the screws on both taps.

I intend to renew the micro switch on this occasion but change to Shureflo if problem persists.

Thanks
Toady

 

[Lenny HB]

I agree, the screw was rusty and I am in the process of renewing the screws on both taps.

Don't forget the shower tap

 

[Lenny HB]

I intend to renew the micro switch on this occasion but change to Shureflo if problem persists.

There is no if about it, it will.

 

[tony_g]

Does anyone have a tap like this?
On mine, the microprocessor works partially, i.e. the pump operates when rotated fully to hot and for about 20% of rotation, then cuts out. I have concluded that the connections must be be grotted up inside. I have tried electrical contact cleaner squirted into the works and vigorous rotation back and forth. No good. I might try the same procedure with limescale remover kitchen cleaner or white vinegar. But if I need to get into the inside, do I lever off the red/blue disc on the top and hopefully reveal a screw. The tiny screw at the back only detaches the 'sleeve' on the column.

 

[Lenny HB]

Yep same as mine, the wire to the microswitch will have broken.
Yes take the cap with the red & blue markers out a socket cap screw holds the lever on.
Towards the bottom on the tap piller on the back there is a very small torx head grub screw that holds the body on.
When you refit the lever replace the rusty unplated screw with a stainless steel one I did that on all my taps.

I got fed up with the wires breaking & fitted a Shureflo pressure switched pump.

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[Toady]

Does anyone have a tap like this?
On mine, the microprocessor works partially, i.e. the pump operates when rotated fully to hot and for about 20% of rotation, then cuts out. I have concluded that the connections must be be grotted up inside. I have tried electrical contact cleaner squirted into the works and vigorous rotation back and forth. No good. I might try the same procedure with limescale remover kitchen cleaner or white vinegar. But if I need to get into the inside, do I lever off the red/blue disc on the top and hopefully reveal a screw. The tiny screw at the back only detaches the 'sleeve' on the column.View attachment 613687

Hi Tony,

I have now sorted mine.

As Lenny said, remove the hot cold cover and this allows you to remove the rusty screw. You should be able to remove the top lever.

The next step is to remove the grub screw at the rear of the tap near the basin. Leave the top grub screw alone.

I used a small mirror to locate this screw.

To gain better access to this grub screw, unscrew the big plastic nut under the basin where the hot and cold feed enter the tap. You will seen the pos and neg cable feeding into the tap from this location also.

Once the nut is undone, you can turn the tap to gain access to the lower grub screw.

Take out the screw and this will allow you to pull off the whole tap.

Take your time now and take pictures.

The next step is to lift the chrome top holding the micro switch in place.

I would replace the switch with a new one from e-bay for £19.00.

You must ensure the new switch is located back in the same position and the cables run accordingly with enough slack to turn the tap. Refer to the pictures you have taken.

I would test the switch when the new switch is assembled. Make sure the tap is in the off position and you have some towels handy.

Once working, reassemble the tap, testing as you go.

As Lenny said, you will be better off replacing the rusty top screw with a stainless steel one. In the meantime, put some copper grease on it.

Good luck and I will monitor the thread in case you need any additional advice

 

[Toady]

The tap is called a Reich Vector S with a micro switch.

 

[mitzimad]

it amazes me how they let the bean counters ruin years of engineering know how ,steel screws in a tap is a problem waiting to happen

 

[tony_g]

Hi Tony,

I have now sorted mine.

As Lenny said, remove the hot cold cover and this allows you to remove the rusty screw. You should be able to remove the top lever.

The next step is to remove the grub screw at the rear of the tap near the basin. Leave the top grub screw alone.

I used a small mirror to locate this screw.

To gain better access to this grub screw, unscrew the big plastic nut under the basin where the hot and cold feed enter the tap. You will seen the pos and neg cable feeding into the tap from this location also.

Once the nut is undone, you can turn the tap to gain access to the lower grub screw.

Take out the screw and this will allow you to pull off the whole tap.

Take your time now and take pictures.

The next step is to lift the chrome top holding the micro switch in place.

I would replace the switch with a new one from e-bay for £19.00.

You must ensure the new switch is located back in the same position and the cables run accordingly with enough slack to turn the tap. Refer to the pictures you have taken.

I would test the switch when the new switch is assembled. Make sure the tap is in the off position and you have some towels handy.

Once working, reassemble the tap, testing as you go.

As Lenny said, you will be better off replacing the rusty top screw with a stainless steel one. In the meantime, put some copper grease on it.

Good luck and I will monitor the thread in case you need any additional advice

Well, thanks for all the helpful advice. I have managed to dismantle the tap and, as predicted, found the brown wire completely detached. Also the top screw pretty rusty. Stripping back the detached wire, I have found that the microswitch still works; but how to re-attach it securely? Me and soldering went our separate ways after year 2 metalwork at school! I see replacement switches come with a long length of wire but I would prefer not be rummaging around under the sink. Also, where on earth do I find one or three stainless screws? Not Wickes, I'll be bound!

 

[Toady]

I tried soldering and gluing the detached brown wire back in place but the switch is very small and it was impossible.

If I was you I would order a new switch and fit it knowing that once you have reassembled everything, fingers crossed the wires are secure.

I cut the wires under the sink and used connectors to attach the new switch.

You can order stainless steel bolts on line. I have not ordered any yet but it is on my to do list.

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