Help!!?? Rotten Motorhome

I fixed one two years ago don't think I would do another one but it's still going strog and no leeks can't find the thread but it might help sum
And don't rip it out in one go repare I bit at a time one meter sections at a time
Bill
 
This is a bit of a wild shot but did he provide a Habitation check document when you bought the motorhome ? Was the damp only visible after you removed the roof or could you see it before moving any of the exterior panels. He/she may argue it was sold as seen and the damp was clearly visible although the true extent unknown. I'm clearly clutching at straws here but just trying to get my head round why it was sold in this condition without you being aware of the damp until after the point of sale.
 
This is a bit of a wild shot but did he provide a Habitation check document when you bought the motorhome ? Was the damp only visible after you removed the roof or could you see it before moving any of the exterior panels. He/she may argue it was sold as seen and the damp was clearly visible although the true extent unknown. I'm clearly clutching at straws here but just trying to get my head round why it was sold in this condition without you being aware of the damp until after the point of sale.
i thought this as well, without some sort of photo or something we cant really tell, one persons nice condition might be totaly un live in by another, and if nothing was actually showing what made the op start pulling down the ceiling
 
sorry just read the op again and see it was raining in, but still if its as bad as claimed something should have been there to see.

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i thought this as well, without some sort of photo or something we cant really tell, one persons nice condition might be totaly un live in by another, and if nothing was actually showing what made the op start pulling down the ceiling
Looking at the initial post again the OP did say he noticed the roof leaking after a bout of heavy rain which may explain why he missed it before hand. Even so, I would have thought there would be evidence of a leaking roof from the inside of the motorhome, visually and by the old smell test.
 
no sign of a value but just done a quick google and see this model is around 15 years old so very dubious if its worth a lot of repairing, could be one thing after another, its before they were galvanised so the chassis needs a good look at, id go for getting what you can off the seller and get rid and put it down to experiance, i know it sounds hard but we have seen these things to often before.
 
Repairing the van is not impossible but unless you bought it very cheaply - half price, not something you should have to do.

I'd be looking to return it - you bought a motorhome not a project

Contact the seller to see what reaction you get before taking legal action....

Good luck

(y)
 
It is all of course repairable but needs time and patience. I can offer advice and technical support as you progress with the repair. Have carried out a fair few repairs like this over the years
There will be tears and frustration as you begin the process, but if you have good basic skills, there is no reason for a bad outcome
 
Thanks everybody. The motorhome was stored inside a barn when I bought it. It all appeared very dry inside.

A short test drive in some heavy rain, and no water appeared inside.

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Sorry that you got stroked, hope it turns out to be not too big a job.
 
Bart, unfortunately, I already know it's gonna be a massive job..:(
 
The aluminium roof skin is a concern
The ally corrodes and produces hundreds, if not thousands, of tiny pinholes.
that can be fixed with a coat of tanking paint as used on swimming pools etc
 
that can be fixed with a coat of tanking paint as used on swimming pools etc
Can't see that being flexible.
The roof skin isn't bonded and will expand and contract.
I would think a proper rubberoid RV roof paint would be more suitable.

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As mentioned in a previous reply have you got legal cover with your house insurance?
Or Motorhome insurance, union membership, etc. They all sometimes come with it as a free bolt on, and you get £50k of “free” advice to fight your case.
 
Can't see that being flexible.
The roof skin isn't bonded and will expand and contract.
I would think a proper rubberoid RV roof paint would be more suitable.
The tanking paint is flexible and contains strands of rubber. It is the same thing as RV rubberoid paint at a fraction of the cost. Similar again to truck bed liner paint as used to repair cracked shower trays, exactly the same product
 
Thanks... I'll check my policy in a bit. I don't remember adding it on though.

If I do end up replacing these timbers myself. Can I ask a few questions?

What adhesive do I use to bond the timber to the FRP siding?

If I need to replace some polystyrene areas, what adhesive would I use for bonding Celotex to the siding?

Once all the framework and insulation is repaired, what adhesive is used to bond the interior panel to the celotex and timbers?

Thanks, hope you guys don't mind all the questions.

Cheers
Matt
 
sikaflex will bond timber to ali and celotex but can effect some polystyrene
 
Thanks... I'll check my policy in a bit. I don't remember adding it on though.

If I do end up replacing these timbers myself. Can I ask a few questions?

What adhesive do I use to bond the timber to the FRP siding?

If I need to replace some polystyrene areas, what adhesive would I use for bonding Celotex to the siding?

Once all the framework and insulation is repaired, what adhesive is used to bond the interior panel to the celotex and timbers?

Thanks, hope you guys don't mind all the questions.

Cheers
Matt

Hi Matt,

Please check out my thread ‘My DIY damp repair’ it should answer a lot of your questions.

Naturally you will feel desperate and helpless. I did too. Mostly everything is repairable. It’s the not knowing how part that drives you around the bend. With time, patience and some half decent diy skills you’ll be able to rescue your MH.

The Big1 is a good resource and a very helpful guy.

To answer your questions:
I used Sikaflex 512 to bond replacement timber to aluminium outer skin
Use the same stuff to bind the replacement polystyrene too.
I preferred to use wallboard adhesive to bond the plywood wallboard to the polystyrene and wood battens rather than Sikaflex

Any questions then just ask. Lots of people here ready to help.

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sikaflex will bond timber to ali and celotex but can effect some polystyrene
Sikaflex in tubes?
Does the bond need to be more complete than a few beads or dabs of adhesive? As it is a sandwich board?
 
You could always stick thin sheet aluminium on top of what’s there, it comes rolled up so glue and roll it out.
 
Sikaflex in tubes?
Does the bond need to be more complete than a few beads or dabs of adhesive? As it is a sandwich board?
yes in tubes, you will get through a fair bit. it needs more than a few dabs as it forms part of the structural strength. be aware, it goes off fast
 
Hi Matt,

Please check out my thread ‘My DIY damp repair’ it should answer a lot of your questions.

Naturally you will feel desperate and helpless. I did too. Mostly everything is repairable. It’s the not knowing how part that drives you around the bend. With time, patience and some half decent diy skills you’ll be able to rescue your MH.

The Big1 is a good resource and a very helpful guy.

To answer your questions:
I used Sikaflex 512 to bond replacement timber to aluminium outer skin
Use the same stuff to bind the replacement polystyrene too.
I preferred to use wallboard adhesive to bond the plywood wallboard to the


Thanks... wallboard adhesive sounds more like what I was thinking. Is this a specialist product? Or general building material?
 
Sikaflex 512 for timbers.

Potentially 512 or wallboard adhesive for boarding.. great, thanks

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Here you are Taffymat The krakens thread.

John.

 
the roof leaks badly, and has completely rotted out the roof ( sandwich ply-polystyrene-paper face ply).
:
The tops of some of the sidewalls have also rotted out, the facing ply and the timbers behind.

As it was stored in a barn it's possible the person didn't know or forgot it was a leaker. This rot however doesn't fit the descrbed condition of 'nice condition' in any way, shape or form and should not be your problem.

The courts don't like it if you have made no attempt to redress issues so you need to contact the seller and politely point out that the top and sides of the van and rotten, and that you'd like your money back please.

The fact you have had to inspect the damage by cutting the interior is IMO irrelevant because it's already rotten, and any remedial work needs the damage to be assessed.

Good luck, but also you need to stop 'owning' this problem and politely and firmly reject it as 'not as advertised', because no judge in the land is going to describe a van rotten on the top and sides as 'nice condition'. If you need to go to small claims BTW it's pretty quick, cheap and easy these days, but first of all try being polite, notify them of the problems and ask for your money back.

Essentially you bought it on the basis of it being in 'nice condition', but it isn't.
 
Yes... the aluminium roof is corroded into small holes. There is at least one large hole approx 2" diameter in the aluminium.

A previous repair by somebody was to rivet large sheets of checker plate on top to seal the roof. They did a poor job, and it leaks like a sieve. I was planning on replacing the aluminium roof sheeting, I'm a lot more comfy working with metal than wood.

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