Help needed..... Water ingress (1 Viewer)

[GaryGavlaar]

I could really do with some advice on what to do with my motorhome as I'm at the depressing point of just seeing it turning more and more towards a scrap item if I don't do something to stop the issue.

I know there will prob be damage internally as I don't know how long this water has been getting in, but I have a couple of external damaged areas I've found, and water has clearly been getting in, as internal wall board is slightly soft although no damp patches as such.

I just need to work out what I can do to stop any more getting in and deal with any internal structure issues once I know it's sorted, but I'm not sure the best course of action.

First is the hab door.....

Above the door is soft on the wall board where someone has badly installed an external light

I thought I just needed to deal with the holes left by that, but it looks I may have an issue with the fit of the door frame itself.

The side of the mh has a slight bulge for some reason at top right of door and I think this may be where water is still getting in. It's a plastic style body not sure on the material, but it's not the aluminium skins you see on some.

I don't know if I should remove the door to refit, or just run some kind of sealant round it. There is a load of old mastic around it though and I'm not sure if sealent will adhere or react or if it's even a good idea....

Pictures attached of where bulge is and where soft internally.

Is there anywhere northwest that deals with this sort of stuff that anyone would recommend speaking to? She's an old girl... 99 bessacar e695.

Any advice really appreciated. Please don't just say it's scrap or you've bought a nail.....I already know this but I need to now try and keep this thing going as long as poss. I can't afford to just chuck many thousands of pounds down the drain..... Although it's kind of feeling a little like I've done this.

 

[Jimbohorlicks]

Have you checked around inside with a damp meter?

 

[HKF]

Someone will be along soon to offer you some good advice.

I kind of understand how you feel, as we had water coming in through the roof, had it fixed, then more water came in! It's all done now but I was so near the point to just giving it away. I was so fed up with it! Yours will be fixable, too, and there are lots of nice people on here who can guide you. Please don't give up xx

 

[Figaro]

There are many threads on here about fixing damp issues and loads of help from knowledge funsters.
What make and model is it ?
Anything can be fixed especially if you're handy and willing to get stuck in
Just reread and seen make and model

 

[GaryGavlaar]

Not myself. It had had a hab check a bit before I bought it where from what I could see were some suspect areas which were explained away and sorted. I got the check done again and the areas that had been flagged seemed to show better results so confirmed in my head the issues had been sorted.... This was my first rodeo so to speak and unfortunately I know more now than I did then about the structure of motorhomes etc.....

Not sure I need to use a damp meter though if I can feel soft wall boards.... I think that's enough for me isn't it?

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[Figaro]

I can feel soft wall boards.... I think that's enough for me isn't it?

Probably, you need to strip out and see the extent of the damage then repair source to stop further damage.
I'd recommend you read the other threads for advice. I can't find them atm but I'm sure others will be along to point you in the right direction
Don't dispair, it can be fixed

 

[GaryGavlaar]

Probably, you need to strip out and see the extent of the damage then repair source to stop further damage.
I'd recommend you read the other threads for advice. I can't find them atm but I'm sure others will be along to point you in the right direction
Don't dispair, it can be fixed

I can't bring myself to start stripping out anything internally until I know the external areas are sorted.

Do you know what the method is of repairing cracked motorhome body, or warped areas? I think the warped area is stopping a decent seal for the door frame for a start, so until that is sorted I'm fighting a losing battle I think.

 

[Puddleduck]

Don't panic, it can be fixed.

I am no expert but there are plenty of Funsters that are and that have made this type of repair.

You will feel you are going backwards before you get into a forward gear but don't despair as it can be fixed.

 

[Figaro]

Sorry I'm not familiar with construction of swift motorhomes but others will be along soon to advise I'm sure

 

[Boldly]

Normal advice on here is to find a boatyard that does repairs as they are likely to be cheaper than motorhome specialists.

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[L' Hobo]

Sorry I cannot give advice without seeing vehicle BUT as we are coming into the time of year when it's wetter and colder, if I had similar problems, I would be trying to find some dry storage where I could work on my vehicle.
Chat to local farmers etc who might have a empty barn and willing to hire for the winter doing anything in the open brings time pressure and bodged work.

In the meantime, if you do find any suspect area's of water ingress, wide 3inch gaffer tape makes a good temporary cover as long as there is clean solid area's for it to adhere to.

Good luck and remember, with water, where it's showing isn't always where it's entering!

 

[berni109]

You need some positive thinking. Of course you can fix it. Or worst case get someone else to do it.
If it were me I would remove the door and then the frame. Strip the old sealant then refit with either non setting mastic (which is what looks to be there now) or puraflex or stixall.
With the doorframe out you will be able to see what the damage is to the interior of the wall structure and wallboard which you should be able to repair from inside.

 

[GaryGavlaar]

You need some positive thinking. Of course you can fix it. Or worst case get someone else to do it.
If it were me I would remove the door and then the frame. Strip the old sealant then refit with either non setting mastic (which is what looks to be there now) or puraflex or stixall.
With the doorframe out you will be able to see what the damage is to the interior of the wall structure and wallboard which you should be able to repair from inside.

Do you know how these doors come out. I can't see any screws. Are they rivited in?

 

[berni109]

I was assuming ( perhaps wrongly) that you had the skills and the tools necessary to do the door striping.
Your going to have to drill the rivets out I'm afraid.
Holding the door while getting it out and putting it back is definitely a 2 person job.

 

[Bessy765]

Having done a few, if you can stand back a bit from the door and take some interior pictures showing from the ceiling down, do not attempt to remove the door frame at this stage. Check any roof lights for leak as water flows in some strange places. If after looking at your photos the probable course of action is not to touch the outside at all to start with other than removing any sealant etc from around the door frame.. If it was me I would remove the internal board slightly wider than above the door frame to get an idea of how far the damp has spread also if you can see any daylight. Probably a wooden frame with insulation bonded to the outer skin. When it is cleared away and dried out, possible ways to correct the bulge are cut a piece of marine or varnished 3mm ply bond both surfaces with good contact adhesive and have someone outside with a thick piece of ply wrapped in a blanket press the bulge in hold it there whilst you put the 3 mm ply up against it from the inside if the bulge won’t flex you may have to drill some small holes right through the skin outer and inner ply and use threaded bar to clamp it together the fill and cover the holes. With respect given the age a couple of small holes will not effect its value but fix your problem..

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[Derbyshire wanderer]

The water is almost certainly getting in at a higher point than the door top so you can assume that if it’s not the door seal itself, it will be the roof joints.
I would remove as much mastic as I could, clean everything to perfection and reseal again with new mastic whether it currently looks like it needs it or not. This first stage is relatively simple and doesn’t need any amazing DIY skills.
Once the structure is sealed, dry the interior and then decide if it is going to be good enough to leave alone or if it will need stripping back and replacing. This will be more involved and expensive but it shouldn’t be getting any worse if the outer skin is watertight.

 

[L' Hobo]

You don't show the top of your van but, in my experience, if you have skylights (and I assume you have) check the sealant around those first and replace if needed.
Often, just parked up, water will pool on your roof and seep in.

It did in mine but showed at the top of one of the side windows.
As I said before, where the water is obvious is not where the leak is. Good luck!

 

[GaryGavlaar]

Having done a few, if you can stand back a bit from the door and take some interior pictures showing from the ceiling down, do not attempt to remove the door frame at this stage. Check any roof lights for leak as water flows in some strange places. If after looking at your photos the probable course of action is not to touch the outside at all to start with other than removing any sealant etc from around the door frame.. If it was me I would remove the internal board slightly wider than above the door frame to get an idea of how far the damp has spread also if you can see any daylight. Probably a wooden frame with insulation bonded to the outer skin. When it is cleared away and dried out, possible ways to correct the bulge are cut a piece of marine or varnished 3mm ply bond both surfaces with good contact adhesive and have someone outside with a thick piece of ply wrapped in a blanket press the bulge in hold it there whilst you put the 3 mm ply up against it from the inside if the bulge won’t flex you may have to drill some small holes right through the skin outer and inner ply and use threaded bar to clamp it together the fill and cover the holes. With respect given the age a couple of small holes will not effect its value but fix your problem..

It's soft across the whole top of the door and can tell it's bad in the center where the whole comes through for the outside light. I think I've got that temporarily sealed though but after rain this weekend I think water was still getting in where the bulge is on the outside. I tested this by sliding tissue paper in above the door frame from the inside.

It's not soft in the cupards or any further than round the top of the door and there is no evidence of water getting lower to the floor or anything.

The outside light I pulled off had basically had a big open hole so god knows how much has been getting in through there and for how long.



I've got a gutter exterior light that I was hoping to fit to divert some of the water away from the door, but the bulge is making that a bit awkward.

 

[GaryGavlaar]

You don't show the top of your van but, in my experience, if you have skylights (and I assume you have) check the sealant around those first and replace if needed.
Often, just parked up, water will pool on your roof and seep in.

It did in mine but showed at the top of one of the side windows.
As I said before, where the water is obvious is not where the leak is. Good luck!

 

[GaryGavlaar]

I don't think skylights leak as everything is nice and crisp around them with a nice high pitch dry tappy sound when checking.

There was a satellite gland that had been leaking at some point, but that's been sorted... Ceiling a little soft near that in cupboard but very localised to the gland, and walls near that seem OK. No staining or softness.

The hole in the side of the van where the exterior light has been very badly installed is a dead giveaway of where it's been getting in, in this area.

I am a little wary of that awning rail thats been added at some point too.... Not sure if it's a standard attachmemt or not. I don't need it, but daren't take it off as not sure how to make good if I do as I I'll have a load more holes in the van if it goes.

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[Bessy765]

Can you see where the awning rail is fixed should be 4 or 5 points.

 

[GaryGavlaar]

Can you see where the awning rail is fixed should be 4 or 5 points.

Yes there is 3 on this one.... One is damaged, right at the back though and she's 7. 2m so a fir distance away from this area. That's another area I will move onto once I know best cause of action for the door as more action needs taking on the interior there. The others seem fine around them. No softness or deep thud tapping.

Is there a recommended damp meter I could buy to help look for damp areas that may not be totally apparent.

 

[Figaro]

The bulge in the door looks quite bad but might be repairable if you can remove it and dismantle it ? Can you rig up a temporary cover for the door opening whilst you repair it ?
Is it aluminum skinned ?

 

[GaryGavlaar]

The bulge in the door looks quite bad but might be repairable if you can remove it and dismantle it ? Can you rig up a temporary cover for the door opening whilst you repair it ?
Is it aluminum skinned ?

No it's the plastic type body.

 

[Figaro]

It might need a new skin and insulation but you won't really know until you dismantle it

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[L' Hobo]

View attachment 950183View attachment 950184

I don't think skylights leak as everything is nice and crisp around them with a nice high pitch dry tappy sound when checking.

There was a satellite gland that had been leaking at some point, but that's been sorted... Ceiling a little soft near that in cupboard but very localised to the gland, and walls near that seem OK. No staining or softness.

The hole in the side of the van where the exterior light has been very badly installed is a dead giveaway of where it's been getting in, in this area.

I am a little wary of that awning rail thats been added at some point too.... Not sure if it's a standard attachmemt or not. I don't need it, but daren't take it off as not sure how to make good if I do as I I'll have a load more holes in the van if it goes.

IMO I still think the sealant around skylights looks old and suspect and there is evidence of pooling water on the roof between the solar and awning + others places and the sealant at the front of the solar and where the cable enter the roof looks rough.

Initially, I would put the rear wheels on ramps or axle stand so the water didn't stay pooling on the roof and who knows what's under the Solar panel?

Now the good news, if you have HAD a leak and it's been resolved, what you have is, POSSIBLY, a past problem but I think you need a professional opinion from someone who can examine it closely?

 

[GaryGavlaar]

It might need a new skin and insulation but you won't really know until you dismantle it

As in outer skin? Whole motorhome side?

 

[gus-lopez]

As in outer skin? Whole motorhome side?

no the door.
I would check the seals around the little chimney from the fire/boiler & the socket that the solar panel cables go down inside through.As well as all the edge of the roof. I can also see to the right of where the outside light was it is bubbling .Could the water have entered through where the light wires are?

 

[GaryGavlaar]

no the door.
I would check the seals around the little chimney from the fire/boiler & the socket that the solar panel cables go down inside through.As well as all the edge of the roof. I can also see to the right of where the outside light was it is bubbling .Could the water have entered through where the light wires are?

Yes it's def had water coming in there, but that is temporarily sealed. There is still water getting in somewhere though, as if I slide tissue paper between the inner rubber seal and wall board the tissue paper still gets wet, and my suspicion is where the "bubbling" is, as that's where the tissue gets wet. The bubbling has prob opened up the seal slightly between door frame and motorhome skin. However I'm just not sure what to do to get a good seal , as even if i removed the door and refitted as it's no longer a flat surface.

I think I need a repairer of some kind.... But my experience so far is they are mostly doom and gloom and just want to scrap old motorhomes and sell new ones, or maybe they just dont want the work.

 

[Figaro]

I think I need a repairer of some kind.... But my experience so far is they are mostly doom and gloom and just want to scrap old motorhomes and sell new ones, or maybe they just dont want the work.

I think ideally you need to get your hands dirty and get stuck in diy if you are able to.
It's not rocket science and within the abilities of most with a little guidance which you'll get on here.
I appreciate, circumstances may prevent you from diy ?

It could become really expensive to get someone else to do it as the extent of damage isn't readily apparent and that gives a repairer the opportunity to keep increasing the bill
Good luck, let us know what you decide