Help! Boiler Water Valve Malfunction

[Jack TGA]

The cold safety valve on my truma water boiler trigger, dumping water when I'm driving. When I try to reset it by pulling it up, it won't stay up. I've tried gently to twist it in case there is a twist lock but it doesn't stay up. I've also tried turning on the 12v while pulling it up but it still won't stay up. What am I doing wrong?

 

[Robbie7q]

Now attached

 

[ED O'DARAC]

Hi, a peg is the simplest answer. Or you can run the heatng sde of your boiler which will warm it enough to pull the red button up and it will then stay.
If you use a peg, be sure to remove it before you lay the vehicle up as the red button is the 'boiler saver' in frosty conditions. 12v needs to be on for the red button to stay up.

 

[JockandRita]

Hi, l have the same problem with exactly the same valve. I have attached the page from the Truma manual that says at temperatures of 8 degrees or less you have to turn on the heater first then lift the valve. I have tried this yesterday without much success, shortly after turning the heater on and lifting the valve the red light comes on the heater control and this closes the valve and dumps the water again. Any ideas anyone? I will try some of the suggestions on here today.<Broken link removed><Broken link removed>

A solid red light usually indicates no gas, ie, run out, or isolation valve closed. If using butane (rather than propane or UK Autogas) in these recent cold temperatures, that would cause a lack of gas pressure to the boiler.
A flashing red light usually indicates low battery voltage.

HTH,

Jock.

 

[Robbie7q]

I have two very new very full gasit bottles, maybe l should look at a new regulator.

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[JockandRita]

I have two very new very full gasit bottles, maybe l should look at a new regulator.

What's your gas supply to the burners on the hob and to the fridge like?
Although the boiler is the biggest consumer of gas, the size of flame on the burners would give you a rough idea of decent pressure, or not.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Robbie7q]

I’ll check it out Jock
thenks
Rob

 

[JockandRita]

I’ll check it out Jock
thenks
Rob

Once the burners are lit and looking good, try the heating again Robbie. You might be pleasantly surprised...................providing of course that the boiler gas isolation valve is open.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Adriaadventure]

The tall thin 'Truma' valve with the blue turn-lever on the top shown in the photo near the top of this thread is also used on Alde systems and is listed and badged as an Alde part !
Its completely a mechanically operated device and has no electrical connections.
Last winter my valve opened due to cold conditions and after resetting it would not completely close with water dripping from the drain pipe occasionally. I found it leaked only when the water pump was near its cut-off pressure so would cause the pump to occasionally start for a few seconds then stop after replenishing the small amount of water lost in the system. This got progressively worse and I found that pressing/wedging the 'reset' button a bit further in stopped it leaking.
Before spending £70+ on a new one I decided to open the unit up ( just 4 screws holding the sides together ) and found there is a notched wheel inside which allows some adjustment of how much pressure is applied to hold the valve closed ( it also may alter slightly the temperature at which the mechanism releases, but I dont think very much as that part is a sealed unit inside and not adjustable ).
This 'wheel' adjustment fixed the dribbling-under-pressure problem and even though it is now 'drained down' for winter I had confirmation it works correctly the other day when, after the temperature had gone down to about 3deg overnight, I found it had tripped open as it should.
Pity this doesn't work on the prostrate problem !