Heating the habitation area in transit and, roof lights

[Gorse Hill]

Just get a new cowl which means you can use the gas fire on the move and crank the heating up to toasty!
I looked at the secure motion regulator thingy but as someone who uses their mobile on a petrol station forecourt and is still here,decided that in the event of a serious crash that may rupture a hose and may catch fire,My chances of winning the lottery are better and when I do I'll buy a van with a built in sprinkler system!


Vlad the warmer

Any idea where you can buy the special cowl vlad, I have the same problem and was considering using the gas blown truma heating on the move and did consider the secure motion regulator until I read your post which seems very logical regarding this.
Thks

 

[Allanm]

I'd be interested in the cowl too and a way to keep the Truma heater working whilst on the move. As soon as the engine starts, all the lights go off and the gas is automatically shut off
Allan

 

[Vlad The Impaler]

If your going to use the heater whilst driving truma recommend fitting a T2 or. T3 cowl top.
I got mine off ebay less than a tenner delivered,simple to fit yourself just screw on.





Vlad

 

[jonandshell]

I'd be interested in the cowl too and a way to keep the Truma heater working whilst on the move. As soon as the engine starts, all the lights go off and the gas is automatically shut off
Allan

Am I right in thinking you have a combi Alan?

The existing flue cowl is OK for in motion use from what I have read.

As for your electrical system, keeping the lights on with the engine running requires knowing which wire to cut!

 

[Terry]

Am sorry but I do not understand any of this. All motorhome heaters should be possible to be used whilst in transit. I was told this by a Truma trained fitter. If the habitation area is cold, switch the heating on. Whats the problem.

Hi Dave if it's the Trumatic blown air E2400 type of heater then yes it can be used on the move -(probably spoke to the same engineer ,it says so in the bumph ) don't think the similar Propex ones can be used on the move -so it probably comes down to which heater you have --I certainly have used mine whilst moving without a problem
terry

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[Jaws]

Ok.. so the T3 goes on top of the flue on the roof by the looks of it.. What about the balanced flue bit on the side of the van ?
This could all be the answer to womans prayers !

 

[Vlad The Impaler]

I just remove the cover from the side of the van when the fire's on,as you would when parked up.
Never had any problems yet.


Vlad

 

[busby]

It's not the vent above the cooker as that's where the factory fitted A/C is mounted. The rooflight in question is forward of that and it's not operated by a crank handle but, a U shaped lever which is held locked by a sprung button. The lever has pins which engage in tracks each side of the light.

I have queried Brownhills diagnosis with their Customer Services department and, I'm awaiting their response.

You will be lucky to get any satisfaction from BROWNHILLS....BUSBY.

 

[Jaws]

I just remove the cover from the side of the van when the fire's on,as you would when parked up.
Never had any problems yet.


Vlad

Right.. T3 on order !

 

[Speve]

If you look at the flues on the newer Autotrails it's just a round balanced flue with no cover mine is on the side and heating works on the move.

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[Jaws]

If you look at the flues on the newer Autotrails it's just a round balanced flue with no cover mine is on the side and heating works on the move.

Yessss.. that is the type we had on the Miller.. The one on the Autotrail ( even though a slightly newer MH ) is the old type with that big cover on it

 

[John & Joan]

This problem keeps cropping up with Brit vans.
I reckon it must be an NCC requirement to have bored, cold rear passengers who can't see what they are doing through lack of light, no power for their gadgets, no heating and draughty rooflights!

Many vans (mostly those built on the continent, away from the mediaeval constraints of the NCC) have en-route heating, better-sealed vents and a fully operational electrical system whilst the van is in motion. The result is happier passengers!

To overcome your problems, you need to fit an en-route heating system. This can either involve making your present heater fit for en-route use by way of a Secumotion high pressure hose and regulator plus the correct flue for in-motion use or fitting an auxillary bus type heater somewhere under your back seats.
The bus heater will need plumbing in to your engine cooling system for its hot water supply.
The alternative is to fit a diesel heater such as a Webasto Airtop or Eberspacher Airtronic.

British Motor Caravans are built as caravans not as Motor Homes. The NCC standard is for touring caravans. They even specify emptying all of your tanks for stability while on the road. Payloads are a laugh. That is why I bought an old Hymer with a real payload and insulation.

 

[tonyidle]

The reason that habitation power is turned off on the move is that each electrical item in a vehicle has to be tested and certified to confirm that it has no ill effect on the vehicle ECU systems. It's an expensive process and rather than have every last MH/caravanning light, heater, or accessory certified converters simply switch them all off when the engine is started. Given that there's nothing in the habitation section likely to cause any interference at all (compared with all the motors, solenoids, etc already in use when the engine's running) arranging to keep all the electrics functional on the move is a no-brainer.

As for any safety element running heating when on the move: LPG-powered vehicles deliver liquid to the under-bonnet area to supply the engine. The outlet from the LPG tank can remain open up to the first (not very robust)solenoid valve fitted on or near to the tank. Habitation LPG is fed as a gas from the top of the tank / cylinder. Any leak or fire as a result of an accident would involve a (admittedly substantial) blow-lamp sized flame from a broken pipe. As opposed to the same volume of liquid turning into vast amounts of gas as it left the broken pipe from a tank supplying the engine.

 

[jonandshell]

Ah! So that explains all the continenal motorhomes careering off the roads on a daily basis!

 

[Jaws]

Right you lot !
My T3 big cowl has arrived..
Having read instructions I think I know how to construct a tin mine or some such but as far as fitting the bloody cowl goes.. useless ! !

Can some one give me a run down in English please ?

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[Vlad The Impaler]

I put my one on a couple of years ago and having a memory like a sieve can't accurately remember!
I seem to remember just pushing two parts together then unscrewing the old one ,replacing with the new one.


Vlad

 

[rolandrat]

Regarding the Auto-Trail roof lights, I used to own a 634 rear lounge which had a very leaky wind up panoramic roof light. It was modified at the factory by having some rubber beading put round the edge which rested on the outer frame work and some of the ventilation was blocked off which resulted in a much warmer habitation area on the move. It also prevented rainwater from blowing underneath and dripping on to the floor and furnishings. There's supposed to be some rule that caravans and motorhomes have to have a certain amount of ventilation because of gas appliances being fitted. I think that they have gone way over the top with that regulation. I don't think that it would be a problem if you were to do it of your own accord as you would only have yourself to blame if something was to happen.

 

[Jaws]

I put my one on a couple of years ago and having a memory like a sieve can't accurately remember!
I seem to remember just pushing two parts together then unscrewing the old one ,replacing with the new one.


Vlad

Yesss..... Well I was gonna do a bit to it this afternoon anyway so went up on the roof to have a look.
Really easy as it turned out.. I could see exactly what to do MAINLY COS THERE WAS ALREADY ONE BLOODY WELL FITTED !!! Doh !!!!!
So anyone want a T3 flue cowl it is up for grabs,,, £7.00 plus £2.80 postage