Has anyone fitted an external switch to isolate their inverter? How did you do it please?

[dunnah01]

Could you just extend the existing on/off switch wires to a new switch mounted on the panel you want to use?

 

[tonyidle]

Does the inverter have an on/off switch? I don't fully understand the problem - are you trying to identify the wires from that switch?

 

[MisterB]

Could you just extend the existing on/off switch wires to a new switch mounted on the panel you want to use?

i could if i knew which wires were the correct ones. i actually cut the wires that i though were the ones, and soldered a new switch wire - but they werent the correct ones, and im struggling to find the correct ones

i cant physically remove the switch as it has a pcb attached - as shown on my first photo - i assume thats what needs to happen but am reluctant to go outside of my competence levels!

 

[MisterB]

Does the inverter have an on/off switch? I don't fully understand the problem - are you trying to identify the wires from that switch?

yes - look at my first post in this thread and it shows you what i have !

 

[Hoovie]

thanks, i know that is one option, but i just wanted a simple (small) unobtrusive switch that fitted in with the existing switches in the motorhome already.

I used to make and sell an "inverter remote control" kit that could be fitted to any inverter without having to start taking the covers off and getting the soldering iron out
I don't do them anymore but basically what you do is get a Power relay (large enough to suit the Inverter, so maybe a 100 or 200A version?), fit that in series on the 12V+ DC line, then you run a lead to a switch located where you want it to turn the relay on and off. Buy a suitable switch that blends in with the existing switches (I used to use the CBE style mounts as they are very common on British and some continental Motorhomes). Job Done.

Better than butchering the inverter (which would also void the warranty when (not if, but when in most cases with inverters) it breaks and save having to mess around again with the replacement inverter)

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[tonyidle]

yes - look at my first post in this thread and it shows you what i have !

In that case unsolder the switch & extend its connections?

 

[MisterB]

In that case unsolder the switch & extend its connections?

If only I could !!

 

[MisterB]

I used to make and sell an "inverter remote control" kit that could be fitted to any inverter without having to start taking the covers off and getting the soldering iron out
I don't do them anymore but basically what you do is get a Power relay (large enough to suit the Inverter, so maybe a 100 or 200A version?), fit that in series on the 12V+ DC line, then you run a lead to a switch located where you want it to turn the relay on and off. Buy a suitable switch that blends in with the existing switches (I used to use the CBE style mounts as they are very common on British and some continental Motorhomes). Job Done.

Better than butchering the inverter (which would also void the warranty when (not if, but when in most cases with inverters) it breaks and save having to mess around again with the replacement inverter)

Like this one?

12V 200A Car Truck Auto Automotive Relays 200 AMP SPST ON/Off Relay 4 Pin 4P | eBay

Heavy duty make or break (on/off) relay. Ideal for universal 12V applications. Color: black.

www.ebay.co.uk

Your suggestion seems like a very simple solution that even I could do lol!

 

[Hoovie]

Like this one?

12V 200A Car Truck Auto Automotive Relays 200 AMP SPST ON/Off Relay 4 Pin 4P | eBay

Heavy duty make or break (on/off) relay. Ideal for universal 12V applications. Color: black.

www.ebay.co.uk

Your suggestion seems like a very simple solution that even I could do lol!

Well, that one is a little odd - I don't know why it is labelled "2.4W"? That would have to be a tiny voltage for a 200A relay to make sense (If you do the maths, 200A at 12V is 2400W. Maybe "2.4W" should be "2.4KW"? or maybe they mean "24V"? I would not get that due to the confusing labelling.
As an example, this one looks identical and the writing on the relay tells you what it will do

Go for one with sensible labelling


I used to sell quite a few of these kits to camper and boat owners. Basic wiring is:

=== Heavy (power) Cable; ---- Light (control) Cable;

BAT +ve ==== FUSE ====== RELAY (PIN 30)
RELAY (PIN 87) ========== INVERTER +ve
BAT -ve =============== INVERTER -ve
BAT -ve ------------------------- RELAY (PIN 85)
RELAY PIN 30 --- fuse ---------- SWITCH IN
RELAY PIN 85 ------------------- SWITCH -ve (this is needed for the LED in the switch to work)
RELAY PIN 86 ------------------- SWITCH OUT

This method removes DC power, so it is important if you have been running the inverter on a high load and it has a fan to let it run for a while before switching off.
You could easily incorporate a countdown timer on the Pin 30/Pin 86 control circuit so when you turn the switch off there is a delay before power is disconnected to make it even easier to use if you want to ensure the fan can stay active for a while.

 

[tonyidle]

If only I could !!

You could! Cheap iron, heat each switch connection in turn whilst gently pulling.

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[MisterB]

You could! Cheap iron, heat each switch connection in turn whilst gently pulling.

I can't dismantle everything to get at it !!

I think Hoovie has an ideal solution that would allow a change of inverter if required in the future and will look at installing that solution when I get round to doing it!

 

[MisterB]

Well, that one is a little odd - I don't know why it is labelled "2.4W"? That would have to be a tiny voltage for a 200A relay to make sense (If you do the maths, 200A at 12V is 2400W. Maybe "2.4W" should be "2.4KW"? or maybe they mean "24V"? I would not get that due to the confusing labelling.
As an example, this one looks identical and the writing on the relay tells you what it will do
View attachment 682152

Go for one with sensible labelling


I used to sell quite a few of these kits to camper and boat owners. Basic wiring is:

=== Heavy (power) Cable; ---- Light (control) Cable;

BAT +ve ==== FUSE ====== RELAY (PIN 30)
RELAY (PIN 87) ========== INVERTER +ve
BAT -ve =============== INVERTER -ve
BAT -ve ------------------------- RELAY (PIN 85)
RELAY PIN 30 --- fuse ---------- SWITCH IN
RELAY PIN 85 ------------------- SWITCH -ve (this is needed for the LED in the switch to work)
RELAY PIN 86 ------------------- SWITCH OUT

This method removes DC power, so it is important if you have been running the inverter on a high load and it has a fan to let it run for a while before switching off.
You could easily incorporate a countdown timer on the Pin 30/Pin 86 control circuit so when you turn the switch off there is a delay before power is disconnected to make it even easier to use if you want to ensure the fan can stay active for a while.

ive ordered the one you suggested, thanks
i have also got a CB switch with led so i can see of its on or off, not sure when i will get chance to fit it but its on 'the list' !!

 

[Raul]

The 2,4w is the consumption of the coil when in energised state, and continue to draw as long as it stays on that position.
Also the switching on/off for the power supply cables will cycle the caps in the inverter every time you swich. That’s why you have a swich on the pcb to maintain the power cables on so the caps are full. On switching with a relay on the 12v power supply, you will always have that surge until the caps charge.
The power drawn by the caps to maintain full state, is tiny in comparison to a relay coil.
Each to their own.

 

[rod_vw]

I have a very simple but effective solution BUT bear in mind that I have an inverter only supplying one dedicated 13A socket.

I have a small microswitch fitted in the top of a CBE 13A socket which closes when a plug is inserted and the guard slides up. This operates a high current relay to energise my inverter.

There is no reason why the same idea could not be added to all CBE sockets with the microswitch connections connected in parallel on them all thus ensuring that the inverter was active if any socket had a plug inserted.

A little inventive circuitry could be added if a change over were required to feed the same sockets from an EHU connection, it only needs the inverter relay circuit to be interrupted when EHU power is connected thus ensuring that the inverter is disconnected both from the sockets as described by another poster above and the 12v supply to it also removed.

 

[Hoovie]

The 2,4w is the consumption of the coil when in energised state, and continue to draw as long as it stays on that position.
Also the switching on/off for the power supply cables will cycle the caps in the inverter every time you swich. That’s why you have a swich on the pcb to maintain the power cables on so the caps are full. On switching with a relay on the 12v power supply, you will always have that surge until the caps charge.
The power drawn by the caps to maintain full state, is tiny in comparison to a relay coil.
Each to their own.

The relay will only draw power when it is on, as you correctly state. If the inverter is on say 20 minutes a day, that is 0.8W/Day draw. Important to compare the correct consumptions.
Also, as the relay is only on when the inverter is intended to be used, if it is say a 1000W inverter, what difference does 2.4W make when pulling 1000W+?

if the inverter is fitted out the way somewhere the on-off switch is not easily accessible and so using that switch could be very awkward and the alternative likely used is to leave the Inverter powered up. On a daily basis, that will drain power massively more in zero-load condition than the amount of power a relay used (whose draw is irrelevant anyway, as explained above).

I would much prefer to remove 12V power into an inverter except when it is in use rather than leave it on all the time. Of course the inverter could be installed so the on-off switch can just be flicked on and off easily, but if that was the case, this whole thread would not have been started and the discussion redundant so we have to assume that is not the case.
The best option is to have an Inverter with built-in remote control of the power-state. Some have a wired control panel (the EDECOA amongst others have this). Some just have a remote jumper link that can be extended to go to a switch (the Victron inverters use this method).

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[Hoovie]

FWIW, the last inverter I installed was a Victron Phoenix.
With that one I also fitted the Bluetooth Dongle that allows you to turn the inverter on and off (or into the auto-on ECO mode) via the Victron Connect App. But if BT dongle was not wanted, could have replaced the standard Jumper with a twin wire link to a switch.
And in addition to that dongle, I also wired the output into a pair of switches that I fitted into a CBE mount which allows the AC Circuits installed into the Garage and the Kitchen to be independently turned off.
Handy as you don't have to remember to unplug stuff (e.g. eBike charger) in the garage in order to use the socket in the kitchen (in this case, to use an Induction hob on a driving break to save having to go into the gas locker to turn the gas on, and then off again once kettle boiled).
For me, the whole experience of using a Motorhome should be as simple and easy as possible. Put the extra effort in when installing the kit to avoid having to think to much about using it when away (after all, when you use some electrical appliance in the house, how much do you need to think before using it? (Not withstanding thinking about the cost of using them of course nowadays )

 

[Rob Turner]

This is all I did on a couple of previous vans.
30a relay, power in, power out and one to the inverter. It works an absolute treat.
No switches, it just changes over automatically.

 

[MisterB]

This is all I did on a couple of previous vans.
30a relay, power in, power out and one to the inverter. It works an absolute treat.
No switches, it just changes over automatically.
View attachment 682882

thanks, but isnt that just to auto change the power supply from EHU to battery? wouldnt it leave the inverter 'switched on' all the time its not on ehu?

 

[Rob Turner]

thanks, but isnt that just to auto change the power supply from EHU to battery? wouldnt it leave the inverter 'switched on' all the time its not on ehu?

No, just turn the inverter on when needed.

 

[MisterB]

No, just turn the inverter on when needed.

lol, not sure you have read the whole thread, but that is what the thread is about - being able to isolate/turn off the inverter remotely .....

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[Chris CM]

This is my solution, the switch is connected to the control connection on my Victron Inverter and it matches the other sockets and switches in the van

 

[Rob Turner]

lol, not sure you have read the whole thread, but that is what the thread is about - being able to isolate/turn off the inverter remotely .....

Ahh, sorry.
I just left mine on and used the remote on the panel.

 

[MisterB]

Ahh, sorry.
I just left mine on and used the remote on the panel.

no probs, i cant find the remote for the inverter and would prefer a switch anyway (with led so i wont forget to turn it off) i actually do intend doing what you have done and have already bought the relay! nice to see it laid out so neatly !!!

can you post your wiring diagram for the relay please so i can confirm what i am doing ? thanks

 

[Hoovie]

no probs, i cant find the remote for the inverter and would prefer a switch anyway (with led so i wont forget to turn it off) i actually do intend doing what you have done and have already bought the relay! nice to see it laid out so neatly !!!

can you post your wiring diagram for the relay please so i can confirm what i am doing ? thanks

The Auto-switching Transfer Switch works well but be VERY careful you wire it correctly as any mistake will be costly (you don't want to be feeding 240V INTO the Inverter, that's for sure )

 

[Hoovie]

Do you have an online shop?

it's in my Signature

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[GMLS]

it's in my Signature

Arr cheers

 

[Peregrinator]

I want to set my inverter up via relay, so it automatically becomes 'live' when not on EHU it I also then want to be able to turn the inverter off when not actually being used. I want to fit a switch with a led so I can see when it's on or off.

I identified what I thought were the wires to the switch inside the inverter but they weren't the correct wires.

Can anyone offer some sort of insight please (or offer a suggestion recommendation) where I might be able to get a switch fitted please.

Happy to pay of course!!
View attachment 675115

The switch is connected to the square circuit board. I thought it was one if the red wires, but it isn't, so it might be via the ribbon connection?

I installed a 300w inverter for my laptop changer (130w), it has a built in switch & led, although I also installed a Main Switch Disconnector just as an added safety measure.

 

[Trackman]

The inverter on my boat & also the one in my PVC have remote switches. Both came with sockets for a remote, & you just needed to buy the remote & cable as accessories. Simple to plug in the cable, route it where you want & fit the remote on the end.

 

[Excaliber]

Having just upgraded my 12v system with twin solar panels and 2 x lithium batteries + B2B charger, this thread has been very useful as have decided to now fit a 1200/1500 inverter
I’ve been advised that never plug mains cable in if inverter is ‘ON’ is using the auto change over switch as suggested going to prevent this very situation or do I still need to ensure that inverter is OFF before using mains
I think I would also install the relay as suggested

 

[autorouter]

I’ve been advised that never plug mains cable in if inverter is ‘ON’ is using the auto change over switch as suggested going to prevent this very situation or do I still need to ensure that inverter is OFF before using mains

You want to avoid having the EHU mains and the inverter connected at the same time, even for a fraction of a second. Mains AC voltage averages 240V, but in fact varies from +340V to -340V 50 times per second. The EHU and inverter mains will not be synchronised, so if you're unlucky there could be 680V between them.

To avoid tedious and error-prone unplugging, often a manual switch is fitted to switch between them, to disconnect one and connect the other. A further step is to fit a relay instead of the manual switch, to automatically switch between them. Typically it disconnects the inverter and switches to EHU whenever the EHU is plugged in.

The relay has already been described, but here's a manual switch which is an alternative.
Amazon product ASIN B07LD6FWY1

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