Front suspension low, rear high

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Shortly before we purchased our 2006 Fiat Burstner motorhome I think the rear leaf springs were replaced. Since we've had it, the motorhome always seems to dip at the front and be higher at the back. Can't really afford air suspension but is there anyway of making the front higher? Perhaps some new springs and shock absorbers? Many thanks
 

pappajohn

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Only 2 options, one of which you said you don't want.
The other is higher rated front springs but the don't increase height very much.
If you raise the front don't forget to adjust the headlamps by the next MOT at the latest
 
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Thank you. Any product you would recommend
 

68c

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Most vans are like that. Probably relates to their early design life as delivery vans so would sit square when loaded. And of course fashion requires them to be higher at the rear to give them that sporty look.

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I fitted uprated front springs and gained 50mm of height and a far better ride/handling.
 
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I appreciate that but mine is about 100mm difference. It makes levelling it very tricky. Plus the ride is so hard.

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If you look, the majority of Ducato based PVCs and motorhomes have ramps at the front because they naturally tilt nose down. You often see vans on ramps on a level car park.
 

Lenny HB

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If you look, the majority of Ducato based PVCs and motorhomes have ramps at the front because they naturally tilt nose down. You often see vans on ramps on a level car park.
Our new van has VB springs & it sits level my mates almost identical Compactline has standard front springs and sits nose down.
 
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I have had Mercedes and Ford and they were all up at the back. Helps with levelling on a slight slope just turn the right way.
 
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I'm sensing a bit of a split in opinion here. Haha.
If the difference wasnt so bad I probably wouldn't be concerned but the last place we camped at I couldn't get it level with the ramps, I had to resort to doubling the ramps on one side and using the scissor jack on the other. Plus the ride is so hard
 
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I fitted these to the front of my 2001 Hymer, lifted the front about 60mm.

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I'm sensing a bit of a split in opinion here. Haha.
If the difference wasnt so bad I probably wouldn't be concerned but the last place we camped at I couldn't get it level with the ramps, I had to resort to doubling the ramps on one side and using the scissor jack on the other. Plus the ride is so hard
Regarding the hard ride, what tyres have you got and what pressures are you putting into them?

Camper tyres have stiffer walls which cause harsher rides and, to make it worse, most converters always recommend the highest pressure from Fiat. If you have Continental Campers tyres go to a weighbridge and and get the axle weights when fully ladened. Continental will then tell you their recommended pressures for your actual axle loads. Other companies, with the exception of Michelin, do this as well.

To make the ride even more comfortable scrap the Camper tyres and use van tyres and again get the manufacturers' recommendations for pressures for the actual tyres and axle weights.
 
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I fitted these to the front of my 2001 Hymer, lifted the front about 60mm.
Did you replace shocks, tops mounts or just the springs?
 
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Regarding the hard ride, what tyres have you got and what pressures are you putting into them?

Camper tyres have stiffer walls which cause harsher rides and, to make it worse, most converters always recommend the highest pressure from Fiat. If you have Continental Campers tyres go to a weighbridge and and get the axle weights when fully ladened. Continental will then tell you their recommended pressures for your actual axle loads. Other companies, with the exception of Michelin, do this as well.

To make the ride even more comfortable scrap the Camper tyres and use van tyres and again get the manufacturers' recommendations for pressures for the actual tyres and axle weights.
Continental camping tyres and yes maximum pressure. Will it really make much of a difference
 
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I fitted new springs at front similar to Manic + also fitted KYB shocks all round.
Coil springs in my case were Kilen 12205, and got me 80mm extra heught.
 
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I appreciate that but mine is about 100mm difference. It makes levelling it very tricky. Plus the ride is so hard.
The 50mm raise I got by fitting new heavier duty springs was on a newer vehicle than yours, so possibly your springs have sagged more, or you may have even broken a coil off. Even if not a 50mm raise halves your issue and puts you in a much better situation when levelling with ramps.

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Continental camping tyres and yes maximum pressure. Will it really make much of a difference
It will stop your fillings from falling out! Phone up Continental and ask what they recommend for your axle weights. My 2015 Hymer's front axle load is about 2000kg and they recommended 3.7bar (54psi), which is a lot less than what you have got on the front I bet. All you have to pay is the cost of a weighbridge readings.

And once you are due to change the tyres I would recommend putting on van tyres instead of campers, as many of us on this forum have found out. I am now running on Falken EuroAll Season Van11 (on 225/75R16C) and they have made a lot more difference. And they cost £100 less for EACH tyre.
 
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Adria Sonic 700i SL
Shortly before we purchased our 2006 Fiat Burstner motorhome I think the rear leaf springs were replaced. Since we've had it, the motorhome always seems to dip at the front and be higher at the back. Can't really afford air suspension but is there anyway of making the front higher? Perhaps some new springs and shock absorbers? Many thanks
Hi, I have a similar issue on our Adri sonic, the rear is high due to it having air suspension (fitted as standard) but the front is low. Have you sourced replacements for your yet, if I may ask what you have chosen ?
 
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I'm still wondering. I think firstly I will take it to the weighbridge and see what axle loading I have for the front and back. I will probably try reducing the tyre pressures first and see how it goes. I've had a look at replacing the suspension and dampers but from what I can see, it can't be done from the engine bay and needs to be done by removing part of the dashboard
 
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Yes you need to some work inside including moving the internal fuse board.

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Fitted upgraded coil springs/shockers last year.
Passenger side just glove box partial removal to get at the 3 top strut securing bolts. Drivers side yes the fuse board needs dropping slightly out of the way, including drilling out of one rivet type screw.
That was the easy part.
Disconnecting bottom end of strut is more of a faff.
But fairly straightforward, just have to be careful to avoid drive shaft popping out and losing gearbox oil.
It happenned to me, but was doing it without help.
 

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