Be careful which wiring diagram you look at for the EBL as the fridge plugs look the same on many but are wired differently. I dont mean after the EBL I mean they connections differ inside.
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However, everything still works fine with the fuse not functioning (20 amp AES fuse on ebl removed also)
It does beg the question - why did Burstner fit a fridge fuse to the leisure battery if it is designed not to use the leisure battery? The manual clearly states it is the fridge fuse but the fridge has never functioned unless the engine is running. Maybe I should have taken this one out before.
Always best to use Littlefuse or MTA fuses a known quality.apart from going to a reputable supplier and probably paying more.
There is a warning on my Nordelectrica block about inserting a fuse in the AES slot but my Thetford 3 way Fridge still needs a D+ from the alternator to run off 12v so inserting the fuse makes no difference. If the engine is off it won't run on 12v.I will look at that later. From memory though, selecting 12 volt when the engine is not running just results in a red flashing error light on the fridge. I never thought running it off the leisure battery was a possibility.
That is an odd one, do you have a 20 amp fuse by the starter battery?
Just a thought, do you have a B2B?
What I'm thinking is the fridge has been wired to be powered by the leisure battery when the engine is running and it is relying on the B2B to supply enough power for battery charging and running the fridge.
That is an odd one, do you have a 20 amp fuse by the starter battery?
Just a thought, do you have a B2B?
What I'm thinking is the fridge has been wired to be powered by the leisure battery when the engine is running and it is relying on the B2B to supply enough power for battery charging and running the fridge.
So if you remove the 20A fuse, the one that melted, exactly what stops working and what carries on working?