Fridge fans (1 Viewer)

[Richard n Ann]

Internal fans will make it use more gas because the thermostat will never cut out. The thermostat is designed for a static plate evaporator, which should switch off at around -11c. That will never happen with a fan blowing on it.

External fans will reduce gas usage because they will lower the condensing temperature of the refrigerant... the evaporating temperature will come down with it and thermostat cut out sooner.

That's the theory anyway

 

[Guigsy]

Internal fans will make it use more gas because the thermostat will never cut out. The thermostat is designed for a static plate evaporator, which should switch off at around -11c. That will never happen with a fan blowing on it.

But hopefully you'd be able to reduce the setting on the thermostat as it didn't need to be set so high to get the fridge properly cold.

 

[Richard n Ann]

But hopefully you'd be able to reduce the setting on the thermostat as it didn't need to be set so high to get the fridge properly cold.

Hopefully yes, I don't know about 3 way thermostats but similar plate evaporator thermostats have a maximum cut out of about -5c. If converting a normal fridge to fan assisted evaporator you'd fit a bottle cooler stat that will cut out at up to +6c

 

[Richard n Ann]

Here's the Danfoss small thermostat chart with the cut in/out ranges

 

[eddie]

Yes forces fridge to work harder, I really noticed it with an internal fan.
Small price to pay for cold beer.

I have a separate beer fridge

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[scotjimland]

I have a separate beer fridge

Of course you do, I thought everyone had one ..

 

[EuroTrotters]

Internal fans will make it use more gas because the thermostat will never cut out. The thermostat is designed for a static plate evaporator, which should switch off at around -11c. That will never happen with a fan blowing on it.

External fans will reduce gas usage because they will lower the condensing temperature of the refrigerant... the evaporating temperature will come down with it and thermostat cut out sooner.

That's the theory anyway

It’s true

 

[EuroTrotters]

Manual switch to dual 12v fans.

Then fitted a 240v compressor tabletop freezer via inverter in a cupboard.

Never with out cold or frozen anything

 

[RGR723]

Hi Funsters

I have been following every posting on this thread and any other over the last few days with great interest since suffering 'warm' fridge problems in Spain this year.

Am wary about attempting to much as I do not wish, to possibly prejudice the warranty in any way, its only 18 months old. However being newish doesn't make the fridge work any better when subject to pretty much direct sun as it was when earlier this year.

I have pretty much decided initially to just go down the two computer fan route with an on/off switch. If I manage this simple route first and it works. I may try and add thermal control and temperature control later.

Today I found the thermal fridge supply incorporated in the fridges wiring and tested that is live with the required 12 volts. Step 1 done .

Please see attached picture. Can any of you knowledgeable people tell me the name of the connectors I need to get to mate up with them? the wire is quite short and there not much room around to enable cutting back and fitting different connectors.

Also any suggestions with regard to an inline fuse and switch would be helpful.

Thanks for your anticipated help

RGR723

 

[Richard n Ann]

Hi Funsters

I have been following every posting on this thread and any other over the last few days with great interest since suffering 'warm' fridge problems in Spain this year.

Am wary about attempting to much as I do not wish, to possibly prejudice the warranty in any way, its only 18 months old. However being newish doesn't make the fridge work any better when subject to pretty much direct sun as it was when earlier this year.

I have pretty much decided initially to just go down the two computer fan route with an on/off switch. If I manage this simple route first and it works. I may try and add thermal control and temperature control later.

Today I found the thermal fridge supply incorporated in the fridges wiring and tested that is live with the required 12 volts. Step 1 done .

Please see attached picture. Can any of you knowledgeable people tell me the name of the connectors I need to get to mate up with them? the wire is quite short and there not much room around to enable cutting back and fitting different connectors.

Also any suggestions with regard to an inline fuse and switch would be helpful.

Thanks for your anticipated help

RGR723View attachment 926005

It will already come from the fuse box so no fuse required. Don't know what the connector is called
You can get little rocker switches that use a round hole on ebay, 15mm if I recall correctly

Edit:

5 x Miniature 15mm Round Black On-Off Rocker Switch SPST | eBay

The switch is designed for snap-in mounting and is suitable for a wide range of applications. Panel cut-out: 15mm. Maximum current: 3A.

www.ebay.co.uk

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[RGR723]

It will already come from the fuse box so no fuse required. Don't know what the connector is called
You can get little rocker switches that use a round hole on ebay, 15mm if I recall correctly

Edit:

5 x Miniature 15mm Round Black On-Off Rocker Switch SPST | eBay

The switch is designed for snap-in mounting and is suitable for a wide range of applications. Panel cut-out: 15mm. Maximum current: 3A.

www.ebay.co.uk

Richard n Ann
Thanks very much for the info, especially that about the fuse.
RGR723

 

[1967bowesj]

They look like normal bullet connections inside the plastic sleeves.

 

[RGR723]

Those fans are commonly available on ebay / amazon but the Temu price is also ok.
Forgot powerbanks etc, just wire into the 12v supply.
Also buy a W1209 thermal digital switch. This will allow you to set a temperature when you want the fan to operate. The system is same as what i fitted some time ago and works well. All parts were off ebay cost me under £10 but that was back in 2022.

12V Digital Thermostat Temperature Controller Sensor Relay Switch -50-110°C | eBay

LED Indicator: LED off indicates the relay off;, indicates the relay is closed. -Refresh Rate: 0.5s. press the "SET" button, press " + or - " to set the desired temperature (long press " + or - " to quickly increase or decrease).

www.ebay.co.uk

W1209 Case 12v Digital Temperature Controller Board Micro - Temu United Kingdom

Find amazing deals on 2pcs w1209 with case 12v digital temperature controller board micro digital thermostat 50 110 c electronic temperature module switch with 10a relay and on Temu. Shop on Temu to start saving.

www.temu.com

Hi tonka

As a DIY novice that normally gets there in the end

I am at the moment actually just looking at two fans and simple on/off switch method of attempting to get the fridge to operate better . Although am wondering if I should try and take the bull by the horns and add the w1209 controller (you mention) if I do will I also need to fit thermal cut out switch?

A simple circuit wiring diagram would be helpful as well if you have one.

RGR723

 

[WESTY66]

I have 3 fans on top vent and the best temperature in the fridge of the weekend was……….12.5 degrees(first thing in the morning)

I’m thinking of sticking another 3 on the bottom vent pulling air IN from outside
These fridges really are

 

[tonka]

Hi tonka

As a DIY novice that normally gets there in the end

I am at the moment actually just looking at two fans and simple on/off switch method of attempting to get the fridge to operate better . Although am wondering if I should try and take the bull by the horns and add the w1209 controller (you mention) if I do will I also need to fit thermal cut out switch?

A simple circuit wiring diagram would be helpful as well if you have one.

RGR723

It's been a while since I did mine but it came with a sensor so it can be set to the temperate you want it to kick in at. Just did a bit of trial and error on mine. Think the wiring details are supplied with the control board.

As you attending any rallies like Drax ? As I might have a spare one lying around, if not they are quite cheap on eBay etc

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[Rob Turner]

I have 3 fans on top vent and the best temperature in the fridge of the weekend was……….12.5 degrees(first thing in the morning)

I’m thinking of sticking another 3 on the bottom vent pulling air IN from outside
These fridges really are

Good idea about the fans on the bottom vent.
Another mod to add to the list.

My fridge isn’t too bad tbf but if it does start to affect the beer temp then it’ll be ripped out and a compressor put in its place.

 

[WESTY66]

Good idea about the fans on the bottom vent.
Another mod to add to the list.

My fridge isn’t too bad tbf but if it does start to affect the beer temp then it’ll be ripped out and a compressor put in its place.

Yes I know what you mean, I’m probably building up to that

 

[Two on Tour]

Yes I know what you mean, I’m probably building up to that

Already beat you to it.

 

[WESTY66]

Already beat you to it.

View attachment 926435

You put a compressor fridge in??

 

[RGR723]

It's been a while since I did mine but it came with a sensor so it can be set to the temperate you want it to kick in at. Just did a bit of trial and error on mine. Think the wiring details are supplied with the control board.

As you attending any rallies like Drax ? As I might have a spare one lying around, if not they are quite cheap on eBay etc

Thanks for very prompt reply as you say they are available on ebay at modest cost hence my thoughts on fitting one.
I assume the sensor needs to be as close to the compressor/cooling fins as possible, touching?
I'll probably end up bottling out especially as I've just seen another post with three fans fitted a cross the top who is considering putting more on the bottom vent!

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[Two on Tour]

You put a compressor fridge in??

No, a fan in the bottom vent to push air up to the 3 fans in the top vent on our Dometic 3 way, which stays lovely and cool after a lot of fiddling with in general.

 

[WESTY66]

No, a fan in the bottom vent to push air up to the 3 fans in the top vent on our Dometic 3 way, which stays lovely and cool after a lot of fiddling with in general.

I’m putting two fans on the bottom

This blummin fridge needs some fiddling with

 

[WESTY66]

No, a fan in the bottom vent to push air up to the 3 fans in the top vent on our Dometic 3 way, which stays lovely and cool after a lot of fiddling with in general.

Uncle Lenny HB is gonna have a fiddle with it at Lyndon top

 

[WESTY66]

No, a fan in the bottom vent to push air up to the 3 fans in the top vent on our Dometic 3 way, which stays lovely and cool after a lot of fiddling with in general.

well I’ve got the two fans pushing in and three fans pulling out and the temp in the top vent dropped from 33.4 to 29.6 in 5 mins!!
Put covers back on and it’s a constant 30.0 now fridge been on 10 mins and inside fridge temp gone down from 23.4 to 22.7 and freezer gone down from 23.2 to 16.0
So we’ll see whether it’s made a difference I’m still thinking the paste needs re doing and whilst the covers were off I cleaned the flue (pretty clean) and the burner (it doesn’t roar like some fridges I’ve heard could that be a factor?)
If you blow the flame out it re ignites immediately, so Two on Tour Paul, I don’t know what else to do

 

[Two on Tour]

Evening Adi, a few things, where are you taking your temperature reading at the top vent?

I removed the mesh from the rear of my top and bottom vents to improve the air flow. I don't worry about stopping flies and bugs getting in through the vents, as they only get sucked in and blown out the top vent.

It's important that the thermal paste is in direct contact with both the evaporator pipework and the backplate of the cooling fins in the fridge/freezer compartments.
If you redo the thermal paste then don't go wild and apply too much as you only need enough to cover the contact area of the evaporator pipework and the backplate of the cooling fins to form a bridge to transfer the heat out of the fridge/freezer compartments to the evaporator pipework. I use GD900 thermal paste as it has the best thermal conductivity for the price with a thermal conductivity of 4. 8 w/m-k or better, and 30 grams should be enough for you to do both the fridge and freezer fins.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16687763...pid=5339023013&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

Check that the burner jet is clear of any debris. If you remove the gas feed pipe to the burner, you will find the jet located at the end of the threads in the burner barrel and the gas feed pipe will have been holding it in place, so you might need to give it a few taps to encourage it out. It will be obvious with the shape of the jet which way round it needs to go back in. I use a fine sowing needle to clear the jet, but go gentle with it.
Do you have the pipe type burner with the slots in it or the round type burner?

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[WESTY66]

Hi Paul, I have the slots and yes the reading was at the top vent, just had a look and it’s only gone down to 21 inside fridge and 12 in freezer (after 90mins) and the fans are still going
I think I put too much paste on last time when I did it, Lenny is going to have a go at re doing it for me!
Can you buy new burner jets? If so where from??
I’m really at my wits end with this fridge I can see a compressor fridge going in over the winter

 

[1967bowesj]

Yes I know what you mean, I’m probably building up to that

Do it, you won’t regret it

 

[Two on Tour]

Hi Paul, I have the slots and yes the reading was at the top vent, just had a look and it’s only gone down to 21 inside fridge and 12 in freezer (after 90mins) and the fans are still going
I think I put too much paste on last time when I did it, Lenny is going to have a go at re doing it for me!
Can you buy new burner jets? If so where from??
I’m really at my wits end with this fridge I can see a compressor fridge going in over the winter

The top vent temperature needs to be measured directly on the condenser tube between the fins, somewhere about halfway along the fins, not at the vent itself, regardless of what Lenny says.

There are a lot of different jets available, and you will need to know the size of the aperture in your jet to get the correct one. Just making sure the aperture is clear in your jet with a fine needle will do the job, that's all I normally do.
If you do decide to go all out and buy and new jet or burner, then this seller on eBay knows his stuff if you message him your Fridge details. guyuk10

 

[DerryW]

I wouldn’t bother with it personally.
You could either buy a Titan fan kit from Amazon or build your own kit which is relatively easy.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F2K5GCW?tag=mhf04-21

Just ordered Titan dual fan kit from Amazon £65. Being delivered on Friday. That’s my weekend sorted.
Thanks for the tip.

 

[pwilmo]

Considering this also .. where do you connect for permanent power? and does the cabling from the control have to be threaded into the hab area, I was thinking ..have it set to auto and leave it all in the bottom left corner of the lower vent/as far from the heat tubes as possible.
Any advice on fitting these Amazon fans !?

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