Fogstar or Roamer and why

[Al n Val]

So i’m torn between these 2 suppliers so has anyone any advice or experience or indeed suggestions of anyone else

i’m looking at minimum 400ah single or double

cheers Al

 

[These Big Adventures]

Roamer if you want the highest discharge rate, 250a on the 460ah battery. Customer service really good from my experience, my 460ah developed a fault with the BMS so they had it collected repaired and dropped back off to me pretty quickly.

 

[Al n Val]

Roamer if you want the highest discharge rate, 250a on the 460ah battery. Customer service really good from my experience, my 460ah developed a fault with the BMS so they had it collected repaired and dropped back off to me pretty quickly.

I can get 2 x 280Ah Fogstars for less than a single 460Ah Roamer, I think i’m correct when saying Fogstar are 200A discharge.

Would anyone need more than 200A discharge?

thanks for replying btw and i’m only 30 mins from Roamer so that’s in my/they’re favour as well

2 batteries rather than 1 as well, is they’re reasoning in that, both i understand have 10 year warranties

 

[These Big Adventures]

I can get 2 x 280Ah Fogstars for less than a single 460Ah Roamer, I think i’m correct when saying Fogstar are 200A discharge.

Would anyone need more than 200A discharge?

thanks for replying btw and i’m only 30 mins from Roamer so that’s in my/they’re favour as well

2 batteries rather than 1 as well, is they’re reasoning in that, both i understand have 10 year warranties

Probably wouldn't need more than 200A to be fair. The Roamer can also do 500A for 10 secs. Not sure that's worth the extra £500 over the fogstar 460ah battery though!

 

[MisterB]

Re 200amp discharge, Becs at Fogstar was testing a 4000w inverter last week. Might be an idea to see what she was powering up to get an idea of what you could get out of your proposed set up.

I have worked out I need a bigger inverter than a 2000w one if I want to power the microwave and the kettle at the same time, a single 304AH Fogstar battery seems able to deliver the power the power but the inverter trips out.

I checked the 'logs' on the Fogstar battery and it didn't report an overload from the battery, so it was def the inverter tripping.

I did look at a 400AH from Fogstar but when I went to collect I realised how heavy it was to manoeuvre it into position, so two batteries might make sense ..?

In terms of quality and after service, i think they're prob on a par after reading threads on here.

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[Steve and Denise]

So i’m torn between these 2 suppliers so has anyone any advice or experience or indeed suggestions of anyone else

i’m looking at minimum 400ah single or double

cheers Al

We have had a Roamer 300ah for 18 months now no problems I had a couple of questions in the beginning, always got a quick reply.
I can’t speak for Fogstar.

 

[bigtwin]

Life Batteries do 300A battery with a 200A discharge limit for £1140.

Ian

 

[paddymcc]

Roamer have certainly been prompt to answer questions. I have found that the Bluetooth range on the BMS isn't great. My 240Ah battery is ina compartment below a side seat and yet even with just wood and cushion above it I really have to be within a metre or so to get a connection. If I stand outside the van I have to be within about 50cm for it to work reliably.

 

[Guigsy]

My view was that they are both relatively small companies.

Roamer have done a better job at marketing and engagement with self builders (they had a stand at a camper festival last year). I expect they have a good product.

I went with FogStar because underneath, most lithium batteries are just off the shelf cells and BMS. And FogStar are more open about this and detail the components they use, which have a good reputation. A YouTube teardown seemed to think they were well built.

 

[autorouter]

I can get 2 x 280Ah Fogstars for less than a single 460Ah Roamer, I think i’m correct when saying Fogstar are 200A discharge.

Would anyone need more than 200A discharge?

thanks for replying btw and i’m only 30 mins from Roamer so that’s in my/they’re favour as well

2 batteries rather than 1 as well, is they’re reasoning in that, both i understand have 10 year warranties

If you're still at the design stage, if you are thinking about over 200A at 12V then you should consider going to a higher voltage, 24V or 48V. You could get an inverter/charger like a multiplus, and most of the solar controllers will work at 24/48V without modification. You'd need a 12 to 24/48V B2B too. But you will probably be buying a new inverter/charger and B2B anyway.

The existing 12V electrics can just be left exactly as they are, with a single 80Ah battery, powered from the existing EHU charger and split charge relay as before. The existing EHU charger can be run from the inverter to top the 12V battery up as necessary.

The existing 12V electrics is very low power, the charger is probably 20A or less, ie 240 watts. To run a 3000W inverter from a 12V system, with massive current flows and hosepipe-thick cables just to keep the same voltage is in my opinion like the tail wagging the dog. Anything bigger than a panel van uses 24V electrics anyway. And a 48V Multiplus 3000 is lighter and cheaper than a 12V Multiplus 3000, because of the weight of copper and iron in the transformer bit.

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[GMLS]

Life Batteries do 300A battery with a 200A discharge limit for £1140.

Ian

Wasn't aware of them but personally I'd like to see more confidence in their product with a longer warranty like with Roamer and Frogstar for that sort of investment

 

[Hoovie]

If you're still at the design stage, if you are thinking about over 200A at 12V then you should consider going to a higher voltage, 24V or 48V. You could get an inverter/charger like a multiplus, and most of the solar controllers will work at 24/48V without modification. You'd need a 12 to 24/48V B2B too. But you will probably be buying a new inverter/charger and B2B anyway.

I would agree with investigating this option. I would got 24V, not 48V though. 48V starts to get a bit inflexible with options and choices.

The existing 12V electrics can just be left exactly as they are, with a single 80Ah battery, powered from the existing EHU charger and split charge relay as before. The existing EHU charger can be run from the inverter to top the 12V battery up as necessary.

I wouldn't do this though. I would get a DC-DC Converter and run off the same 24V Battery Bank.
I do actually run a DC-DC converter to power all the Motorhome Hab Electrics in my own Motorhome. Use an 18A Orion Smart-Tr set in Power Supply mode as opposed to Charger mode.

The existing 12V electrics is very low power, the charger is probably 20A or less, ie 240 watts. To run a 3000W inverter from a 12V system, with massive current flows and hosepipe-thick cables just to keep the same voltage is in my opinion like the tail wagging the dog. Anything bigger than a panel van uses 24V electrics anyway. And a 48V Multiplus 3000 is lighter and cheaper than a 12V Multiplus 3000, because of the weight of copper and iron in the transformer bit.

 

[MisterB]

going to 24v is something i hadnt considered when working out how to get the best from my setup. Am i right in thinking that if two 12v/304Ah batteries are connected in parallel then that will equate to one 24v/304Ah battery (its too late for me at this point in time, but perhaps for the future ... if i can afford another 304Ah battery ....)

what are the benefits of running a 24v/304Ah battery as opposed to a 12v/608Ah battery ?

 

[donkey]

2 12v batteries in parallel, gives one large 12v battery. So you example: 2 x 12v/3o4Ah = 1 x 12v battery of 608Ah capacity.

or 2 x 12v /304Ah batteries in series = 1 x 24v battery of 304Ah capacity.

Geoff

 

[Guigsy]

24v means cables are pushing half the amps. So you need thinner cabling. You also get less loss in the cables, so it's a bit more efficient. This makes a big difference when you're looking at big invertors.

Downside is much of the system needs to be 24v or it's not worth it. Even solar panels need to be 24v or wired in series pairs to produce enough voltage, or use specific 24v panels.

You'll still need step down convertors for things that are 12v only. I don't know about the B2B chargers, I assume they are available with 12v input from the alternator and 24v output?

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[autorouter]

what are the benefits of running a 24v/304Ah battery as opposed to a 12v/608Ah battery ?

It's the same amount of energy storage: 12V x 608Ah = 7296Wh = 24V x 304Ah. The amps from each battery is actually just the same, in parallel or series, for the same power in watts. The wiring, fuses and switches only take half the amps (or a quarter for 48V) so can be thinner for the same losses.

House solar storage or off-grid installations are typically 48V, sometimes 24V.

I wouldn't do this though. I would get a DC-DC Converter and run off the same 24V Battery Bank.
I do actually run a DC-DC converter to power all the Motorhome Hab Electrics in my own Motorhome. Use an 18A Orion Smart-Tr set in Power Supply mode as opposed to Charger mode.

I bought a 48-to-12V 25A converter to replace the 12V 90Ah battery that runs the hab circuits, but never got round to installing it. I kind of like the idea of the existing 12V system being entirely separate, with its own charging supplies, so I left it as it was. If I turn off the Multiplus, the system is back as it was originally.

 

[Hoovie]

24v means cables are pushing half the amps. So you need thinner cabling. You also get less loss in the cables, so it's a bit more efficient. This makes a big difference when you're looking at big invertors.

Downside is much of the system needs to be 24v or it's not worth it. Even solar panels need to be 24v or wired in series pairs to produce enough voltage, or use specific 24v panels.

If you have more than two 12V panels, yould could wire them all in series - you don't need to have even pairs. So for example 3 12V panels in series would be fine for either 24V or 12V (or even 48V as a push)

It was mentioned that the 24V Multiplus is a bit cheaper than the 12V one? The same kind of situation is true of solar controllers if you buy right? For example, the Victron 100/30 is generally quoted as a 440W controller? that is only for a 12V system. If you fitted the 100/30 to a 24V system, you could fit upto 880W. if you only had 440W worth of panels, you would not need to get the 100/30, but could get the 75/15 or 100/15 instead at around half the price.
And if you had a 48V system, you could get the Victron 48V 100/20 and have up to 1,160W of panels

You'll still need step down convertors for things that are 12v only. I don't know about the B2B chargers, I assume they are available with 12v input from the alternator and 24v output?

You can get 12V in => 24V out; or 24V in => 12V out, B2Bs no problem.


Where it does it a little tricky is if you want to have a trickle charger for the starter battery in an economical manner. some people actually get a small B2B fitted in the "opposite" direction but that is quite a pricey option. I don't think Vanbitz's Battery Master will cope with different battery voltage setups. Ablemail make an AMT that will manage trickling a Starter Battery running at a different voltage to the Lesiure Battery however.
This is a situation where Autorouters preference of keeping a 12V hab battery can make life easier for trickling the Starter Battery.

 

[autorouter]

Where it does it a little tricky is if you want to have a trickle charger for the starter battery in an economical manner. some people actually get a small B2B fitted in the "opposite" direction but that is quite a pricey option. I don't think Vanbitz's Battery Master will cope with different battery voltage setups. Ablemail make an AMT that will manage trickling a Starter Battery running at a different voltage to the Lesiure Battery however.
This is a situation where Autorouters preference of keeping a 12V hab battery can make life easier for trickling the Starter Battery.

Or simply run a mains trickle charger from the inverter for 24 hours every couple of weeks. Alternatively if you have fitted a 24-12 or 48-12 converter, a BatteryMaster will run from the 12V side. And if the converter outputs 13.8V, as a lot of them do, that's even better.

 

[Lenny HB]

When I get the new van I'm looking at 460ah of Lithium fairly certain I'm going to go for 2 x 230 ah Fogstar 200 quid dearer than a 460 ah but has the advantage of being able to draw upto 400 amps if needed.
Also 2 x 230 easier to install, gives more flexability and some redundancy if I was unlucky enough to have one fail.

From other Funsters experience Fogstar appear to have good customer service. The only downside I can see is the BMS they use is passive balancing rather than active so uses a bit more power and not quite as good but they are looking at changing it.

 

[Hoovie]

Or simply run a mains trickle charger from the inverter for 24 hours every couple of weeks.

you could. I like the "fit and forget" solutions. You may have you van in storage and unattended for a couple of months for example.

Alternatively if you have fitted a 24-12 or 48-12 converter, a BatteryMaster will run from the 12V side. And if the converter outputs 13.8V, as a lot of them do, that's even better.

I cannot agree with that.
One of the advantages of using a DC-DC converter is you can present a proper 12V level to the habitation side and not an 'charging voltage' that can potentially damage domestic devices that are designed to work on a regulated 12V supply, not a variable one. So you have a DC-DC reg that is putting out 13.8V (sorry, but NOT even better!) and then need additonal regulators to drop some supplies down to to 12V for more sensitive kit. Messy.
For myself, this is the precise reason I fitted the DC-DC Orion, so I could have a regulated supply for the entire habitation area and could use any 12V device, be it designed for Motorhomes OR just Homes, without concern.

Also, by doing what you suggest, you are negating one of the key benefits of using a battery maintainer i.e. having it active when you are charging the leisure battery. By doing what you propose the trickle would be on all the time - may as well just fit a cable between the two batteries with a diode.

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[Geistguy]

Can't comment on Roamer but upgraded to a Fogstar 300ah in February, although delivery was delayed to circumstances beyond their control Fogstar always kept me up to date. We chose Fogstar for several reasons but mainly the size is far smaller than others, reviews were excellent and price was good. So far very pleased, the Fogstar app is excellent.

 

[Guigsy]

If you have more than two 12V panels, yould could wire them all in series - you don't need to have even pairs. So for example 3 12V panels in series would be fine for either 24V or 12V (or even 48V as a push)

It was mentioned that the 24V Multiplus is a bit cheaper than the 12V one? The same kind of situation is true of solar controllers if you buy right? For example, the Victron 100/30 is generally quoted as a 440W controller? that is only for a 12V system. If you fitted the 100/30 to a 24V system, you could fit upto 880W. if you only had 440W worth of panels, you would not need to get the 100/30, but could get the 75/15 or 100/15 instead at around half the price.
And if you had a 48V system, you could get the Victron 48V 100/20 and have up to 1,160W of panels

Good point. And even a few metres of cable gets very expensive when you're pushing that many amps. So you save money there too.

 

[Outdoors Dad]

I ordered a fogstar 230a battery in January for delivery end of March but it was delayed and I hadn't received an email. I emailed them to ask about when it will arrive and told sorry etc. Communication has been better since except another small delay in delivery.....so I was given an upgrade to the 300a battery free of charge, which was a good offer, I gratefully accepted. I can't wait to get it fitted!

 

[Oldrat]

I bought Roamer, 230ah and have had no regrets. App Xmas Bluetooth work well for me.

Can’t fault their customer service, even well out of hours late Saturday night, immediate help.

 

[Wissel]

For me, the Roamer is worth the extra cost. This is speaking as someone who has to guarantee the products I fit.

I've used Roamer for the last 18 months and had nothing but great service. The reasons I chose them in the first place were they answered every question I had fully and thoroughly, plus are a UK outfit with a good track record. So I trust their guarantee. They gave me confidence in themselves and their products.

I don't know as much about Fogster, but did contact them a while back asking similar questions and the answers I got were vague at best. In my mind, I was better sticking with Roamer. Obviously just my own opinion.

Our new premises are off-grid and just today, our new Roamer 48v CANBUS batteries arrived to upgrade the system here. Even with the small discount I get, they cost far more than the new Fogster equivalent. For me it's worth it for the same reasons I use and fit Victron chargers and inverters. I trust their products.

I'm not slating Fogster as I have no reason too. Just giving my reasons for spending more myself. I'll be fitting their 24v batteries in the Vario as well.

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[Al n Val]

If you're still at the design stage, if you are thinking about over 200A at 12V then you should consider going to a higher voltage, 24V or 48V. You could get an inverter/charger like a multiplus, and most of the solar controllers will work at 24/48V without modification. You'd need a 12 to 24/48V B2B too. But you will probably be buying a new inverter/charger and B2B anyway.

The existing 12V electrics can just be left exactly as they are, with a single 80Ah battery, powered from the existing EHU charger and split charge relay as before. The existing EHU charger can be run from the inverter to top the 12V battery up as necessary.

The existing 12V electrics is very low power, the charger is probably 20A or less, ie 240 watts. To run a 3000W inverter from a 12V system, with massive current flows and hosepipe-thick cables just to keep the same voltage is in my opinion like the tail wagging the dog. Anything bigger than a panel van uses 24V electrics anyway. And a 48V Multiplus 3000 is lighter and cheaper than a 12V Multiplus 3000, because of the weight of copper and iron in the transformer b

Theirs been some good replies so far

my motorhome is only a year old, in fact it’s just sailed through its first service/hab/check with flying colours so I’m pleased, it’s already fitted with 2 x 24v 430w Victron solar panels and a Victron MPPT 100/30 smart controller, so hopefully that’s covered but I could possibly get another 2 x 100w 24v panels up there if needed.

As standard fitment their are 2 x 90ah Super B LifePo4 batteries with Super B display above the habitation door, to add another 2 same size, or 2 x 200w and bin mine I’m looking at circa £3/3.5k which I’m not prepared to do as I’m not keen on having 4 batteries and neither is their room tbh and paying another £3.5k for 400ah seems madness to me.

I‘ve a Redarc 40A dc2dc charger fitted as standard and added a Giandel 2kw Pure sine wave inverter

I‘d possibly like to run my Truma Aventa aircon occasionally and we have other electrical appliances, air fryer, microwave, kettle, induction hob, but all used individually

I also have an as new Victron Orion 100/30 dc2dc charger and a Vanbitz battery master but not fitted

So I suppose my questions are

Do I keep my setup as is and be happy

Bin my batteries and replace with 400+ Ah of Roamer or Fogstar

I’d like to do a bit more non ehu travelling so unsure what my best route is, more solar or more battery capacity or both and do I need to fit the Victron dc2dc charger and battery master

Al

 

[Guigsy]

I was at a campervan festival at the weekend. Roamer were there. Talking to people and providing advice about installations.

 

[Al n Val]

I was at a campervan festival at the weekend. Roamer were there. Talking to people and providing advice about installations.
View attachment 746318

Guigsy

What advice did they give you if any of you don’t mind me asking

 

[Guigsy]

Guigsy

What advice did they give you if any of you don’t mind me asking

I didn't chat with them this year. But I did last year at the same festival, had a brief chat about what options I had for an under seat battery install. They did seem keen to make sure I was aware of the implications. Gave me a link to the camper electronics Facebook site they support. Felt like they weren't just pushing their product, which was good.

 

[tkk]

When I get the new van I'm looking at 460ah of Lithium fairly certain I'm going to go for 2 x 230 ah Fogstar 200 quid dearer than a 460 ah but has the advantage of being able to draw upto 400 amps if needed.
Also 2 x 230 easier to install, gives more flexability and some redundancy if I was unlucky enough to have one fail.

From other Funsters experience Fogstar appear to have good customer service. The only downside I can see is the BMS they use is passive balancing rather than active so uses a bit more power and not quite as good but they are looking at changing it.

Re the BMS, approx how much more power consumption does passive have in % or watt terms?
thanks
tk

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