Foam Loft Insulation (Lapolla Open Cell) Costs ? Grants? Recommendations ?

Difficult to explain without photos but my upstairs in all in the confines of the roof and all rooms have sloping ceilings.
Therefore there is only about 8" gap between the underside of sloping roof and ceiling and the drop is approx 35'.
In addition once you access loft space at top of roof there is only about 3' headroom in a small triangular space.
Just reread above but not sure it is very clear.😄😄

Makes sense to me.

As you say more layers and hats 👍
 
I think you mean you have a dormer house with upstairs and very small attic space ?

What I have done, and it's not ideal way, but cut the kingspan slightly narrower than the width between the roof truss and slide sections down the gaps from the attic. Only other way is strip plaster (either plaster board or lath and plaster) insulate and re plaster board.

I think the cost would outweigh the gains.
You could batten off and use tri iso and on then plaster.

But again very costly.
 
Difficult to explain without photos but my upstairs in all in the confines of the roof and all rooms have sloping ceilings.
Therefore there is only about 8" gap between the underside of sloping roof and ceiling and the drop is approx 35'.
In addition once you access loft space at top of roof there is only about 3' headroom in a small triangular space.
Just reread above but not sure it is very clear.😄😄
Is it possible to insulate under the ceiling and plasterboard over
:RollEyes:
 
I think you mean you have a dormer house with upstairs and very small attic space ?
That's the one..
One chap I had in did indeed suggest what you say but when he went up into loft he decided max length he would be able to cut Kingspan was about 3 to 4 ft.
Also the nails holding tiles onto roof protrude up to about 2" causing added complications when trying to slide insulation down gaps.
Yes lathe and plaster.... I did mention that that could be one solution but IMV prohibitally expensive.
 
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Thats the stuff, don't forget the foil for all the joins.

Some in my van x

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That's the one..
One chap I had in did indeed suggest what you say but when he went up into loft he decided max length he would be able to cut Kingspan was about 3 to 4 ft.
Also the nails holding tiles onto roof protrude up to about 2" causing added complications when trying to slide insulation down gaps.
Yes lathe and plaster.... I did mention that that could be one solution but IMV prohibitally expensive.
Yes that can be a problem, but even cutting at 3 or 4' legnths is better than none.
 
I know dormers and flat roofs are a nightmare to retrofit insulation to,which is why we sold our rented property when the last tenants moved out,but in traditional roofs the insulation should be between and over the joists so that you keep the heat in the house and not heat the loft!
 
We had a call from "Green Energy Grant" company offering us a new boiler upgrade, plus under floor, plus loft insulation, stating that they would send a "surveyor" before install.
I then questioned what boiler they would fit, an gave them probably too much info on what they would need to replace I.e indirect hot water cylinder, Honeywell H plan valves etc. I was then told "No Problem our engineers do this stuff every day"..."the surveyor will explain everything"
I then said that I would need a power flush before fitting any new boiler as it would be silly to not do this, they then said " we can do this at additional cost, its not something we normally price for".
I then asked what boiler they would fit?, they said an Ideal boiler, but if you want a Vaillant or similar that would be at additional cost.
I was being pressured into giving the a date to install, I then mentioned the "surveyor visit" that hadn't happened, to which I was informed the surveyor visit will happen before the install, but we need you to agree the costs over and above the grant before we send out our fitters.
I the asked how long it would take to install the insulation, plus the boiler change, they said it will all be done in a day, providing you have access to the underfloor of your home.:eek:
I said I am am a retired engineer, I fitted the existing boiler & heating system, I know what would be involved in changing the boiler, plus the changes to wiring etc, then it went very quiet.
Nothing happened after that, the phone number went dead, no e-mails were returned even quoting my "Customer Reference Number"
:unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure:
A few weeks later I got a call on the mobile.
Hello Mr ####
We understand that you have recently had insulation fitted under the Gov Green Space Grant system?
Before I could say no we haven't had anything fitted yet!
He then went on to say, the insulation you have had fitted has been found to be unsafe, Carcinogenic :eek: and can cause damage in terms of condensation due to lack of natural ventilation, we will come round, remove it completely, and install safe insulation in its place.
Needless to say, I told the guy to just F Off and never call me again you F ing, ambulance chasing right hander, get a proper job.:swear::mad::mad::mad:
I know, I know it was over the top for me, but what a scam the whole Green Energy Boiler replacement scheme was.
But no way would I chose to join the ER or EI group of total idiots either.:swear:
LES
I did the Same told them to go forth a couple of weeks ago
 
If the rafters are 4 inch you need 2 inch between the overclad all with 2 inch the plasterboard if needs
 
If the rafters are 4 inch
Gosh georgio..whit you got... a Wendy hoose🤣🤣.. my rafters are nearer 10".
Yep they don't build em like they used to... I always wonder how long these new builds will be around... 150years??? NOPE.

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I have been looking at getting our loft insulated in the UK and in Spain.
the spanish one is easier.:giggle:Do you have a loft in spain ? Unusual if you do? anyway 99,9% of spanish builds are concrete columns with terracota infill+ concrete floors . Here now they spray foam both inside & outside walls & then plaster over . The roof is also reinforced shuttered concrete & once laid they spray foam over before the tiles are laid. The usual thickness is 40mm I believe & it amazingly maintains a unifrom level even when applied on vertical walls? No slump.
no idea of price now but a lot depends on access & M2 required. My neigbour had the underside of an outside space done about 10 years back , which was around 60M2 @ 6€per m2. he also had a large roofed parking /storage area done at the same time . Waterproof insulated foam at the time was 18€/m2.
I was proposing to havethe inside of any van I purchased to convert done in sprayed foam but this one came with an insulated interior.
If you have plaster suspended ceilings you can use 'lana' (sheeps wool) sheet insulation above it as long as you have a 40mm space . I did all mine when I fitted & re-fitted the suspended ceilings.

Far better than the fibreglass. no itching . Comes in packs of 60cm x 1,35m x 15 sheets= 12m2 I pay around 27 €/pack locally although I see Leroy merlin sell at 43€??
 
the spanish one is easier.:giggle:Do you have a loft in spain ? Unusual if you do? anyway 99,9% of spanish builds are concrete columns with terracota infill+ concrete floors . Here now they spray foam both inside & outside walls & then plaster over . The roof is also reinforced shuttered concrete & once laid they spray foam over before the tiles are laid. The usual thickness is 40mm I believe & it amazingly maintains a unifrom level even when applied on vertical walls? No slump.
no idea of price now but a lot depends on access & M2 required. My neigbour had the underside of an outside space done about 10 years back , which was around 60M2 @ 6€per m2. he also had a large roofed parking /storage area done at the same time . Waterproof insulated foam at the time was 18€/m2.
I was proposing to havethe inside of any van I purchased to convert done in sprayed foam but this one came with an insulated interior.
If you have plaster suspended ceilings you can use 'lana' (sheeps wool) sheet insulation above it as long as you have a 40mm space . I did all mine when I fitted & re-fitted the suspended ceilings.

Far better than the fibreglass. no itching . Comes in packs of 60cm x 1,35m x 15 sheets= 12m2 I pay around 27 €/pack locally although I see Leroy merlin sell at 43€??
Hi,

Thanks. No we don’t have a loft(s).

I think I may be able to access the main bedroom by knocking through the ceiling. The roofs are all up and down.

I had considered fitting kingspan or similar to the concrete under the floors. I have an underbuild crawl space. But someone told me the heat will just go out of the wall at the side of the concrete Floor. I still going to try it though.
 
the spanish one is easier.:giggle:Do you have a loft in spain ? Unusual if you do? anyway 99,9% of spanish builds are concrete columns with terracota infill+ concrete floors . Here now they spray foam both inside & outside walls & then plaster over . The roof is also reinforced shuttered concrete & once laid they spray foam over before the tiles are laid. The usual thickness is 40mm I believe & it amazingly maintains a unifrom level even when applied on vertical walls? No slump.
no idea of price now but a lot depends on access & M2 required. My neigbour had the underside of an outside space done about 10 years back , which was around 60M2 @ 6€per m2. he also had a large roofed parking /storage area done at the same time . Waterproof insulated foam at the time was 18€/m2.
I was proposing to havethe inside of any van I purchased to convert done in sprayed foam but this one came with an insulated interior.
If you have plaster suspended ceilings you can use 'lana' (sheeps wool) sheet insulation above it as long as you have a 40mm space . I did all mine when I fitted & re-fitted the suspended ceilings.

Far better than the fibreglass. no itching . Comes in packs of 60cm x 1,35m x 15 sheets= 12m2 I pay around 27 €/pack locally although I see Leroy merlin sell at 43€??
Here are my roofs
482481C3-F362-4952-B352-6865B2F3666F.jpeg
 
But someone told me the heat will just go out of the wall at the side of the concrete Floor. I still going to try it though.
yes if it has been built the usual way with the 10cm terracota blocks meant only for summer use' the heat will just go out the walls & , to a lesser extent , heat up when the temperature is high.. That's why now they either spray foam or use the insulated 32cm thick multi honey combed insulation terracota blocks. Lot dearer though.
Yes, I would guess they are just tiled straight on to the concrete as they were always constructed.Still plenty doing the same now.

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This was meant to be linked


Fix my ceiling onto the short vertical walls ( yes vertical ceiling) and then up the sloping roof to the top... and then try to insulate behind... that's what I have got. Little space between outside wall/roof and internal fittings.
 
Hello. We just moved to a new house last year and had the loft insulation checked and I understand it needs raising to newer standards. Had one quote which felt a lot (£6k) to remove old stuff, replace it, raise joists and then re-board. I don't know whether (a) that's a lot or (b) it needs doing in that way. Thoughts on that? But also, is spray foam for the underside of the roof a cheaper alternative?
No to spray foam, it will cause condensation and will be a nightmare if ever you need a new roof

Just buy extra insulation yourself and lay on top, 6k good grief that’s pinching money, if it’s got some in already and it’s also boarded over the top, the boards will also offer some insulation.

When it’s frosty outside does the frost quickly melt on the roof or does it stay?

How much insulation is actually in there do you know?

Can you get a free grant for it?

Plenty of options?
 
Another big NO to spray foam... May seem an easier option.. but as said can cause condensation which then rots the underside of roof whick goes unnoticed until it is too far gone....and mortgage company's don't like it when you come to sell..... buyer "may" have trouble getting mortgage..

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I know dormers and flat roofs are a nightmare to retrofit insulation to,which is why we sold our rented property when the last tenants moved out,but in traditional roofs the insulation should be between and over the joists so that you keep the heat in the house and not heat the loft!
Our insulation is between the joists it looks like a cloud ☁️ all fluffy and certainly keeps the heat in. The bedrooms were noticeably warmer as soon as we did it and that was some 15 years ago. If I place my hand under the insulation it’s warm and very cool on top.
 

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