First Motorhome - VW 2.4D 1994 Auto-sleeper

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Hi Folks. I'm looking to get my first camper, on a budget. I've for my eye on a 1993 VW autosleeper 2.4 diesel, with 90000 miles.
It has been well looked after, and I would plan to keep it looked after, with regular servicing and usage and tlc/money spent. Realistically though, can someone advise, what level of trouble/breakdown/expense I should expect from a 30 year old vehicle? Thanks very much. Kev.
 
yes! I like the idea of stopping in suitable lay-by and being self sufficient and also able to go in and out of towns relatively easily.
 
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Just be aware that it is illegal to overnight in most if not all lay bys.
Not saying you can't get away with it but most councils don't allow it.
 
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We have a 1995 Autosleeper Clubman GL, 2.4D, AAB engine. Bought in 2018, currently on about 70k miles. In our case we had to have a short engine pretty soon after buying it as the oil pump went and took the rest of the engine with it.

MPG varies from about 24 to a miraculous 30 on one occasion (maybe I got the math wrong).

Not had any issues getting spares at all, there are still a lot of T4s around so there's plenty of breakers, and pattern parts.

Agree the the T4 forums are font of knowledge and there are some extremely well regarded independent mechanics dotted around the country.

Usual T4 rust spots are wings, sills, front crash bar, windscreen surround. All easily fixed except the screen for the clubman because of the rain gutter getting in the way and it being almost impossible to remove (normally having to be cut off and reattached somehow)

Really only seen one Clubman that had rust troubles so think they're normally well looked after.

Biggest issue with an honest old polluting diesel is the emission zones that are restricting areas to visit. Needs thinking about if you want to get to those places.
 
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Biggest issue with an honest old polluting diesel is the emission zones that are restricting areas to visit. Needs thinking about if you want to get to those places.
This will likely get worse over time, we are in a similar situation with an old MH. Plan is to use public transport where possible to get in to town centres with restrictive zones or Bikes if we carry them. Think it is all part of the adventure to be honest.

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Plan is to use public transport where possible to get in to town centres

I used a bus for the first time in 13 years this summer. I found it quite an exciting novelty.
I was surprised that maybe 8 out 10 of those getting on, mostly wrinklies and students, had free bus passes. It did make me chuckle that many of the wrinklies sighed or panicked and made a big fuss searching their cardigan pockets and bags for theirs whereas the youngsters just flashed their phones at the machine whilst hardly even stopping.
 
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dont T4s often get slammed on coilovers, which ruin all other suspension parts and rattle the crap out of it. Voice of experience and still running around in a T2 50mm off the floor....
 
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Hi again folks. Thanks again for your helpful comments so far. So I went to see the van. I really liked the size, shape ad layout - it's just the kind of van I'm after. However, there's a few 50p piece sized spots of rust turning to holes that can be seen, and one particularly bad section inside driver side wheel arch causing bumper to be quite loose. The engine bay has signs of rust but seemed solid. However, the van has clearly been left standing unused for a long time, and the rear kitchen woodwork was rotten in places, needing some repair work to be done, and signs of water ingress around floor level woodwork. Sitting inside, it was quite dirty, and it smelled like a derelict house, so really not good and not something I want to invest in.

Autosleepers do an identical model on a Ford Transit 2.5 Diesel, mid 90s for around £13k. Can anyone advise how these compare to the T4?

Thanks again. Kev.
 
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Hi again folks. Thanks again for your helpful comments so far. So I went to see the van. I really liked the size, shape ad layout - it's just the kind of van I'm after. However, there's a few 50p piece sized spots of rust turning to holes that can be seen, and one particularly bad section inside driver side wheel arch causing bumper to be quite loose. The engine bay has signs of rust but seemed solid. However, the van has clearly been left standing unused for a long time, and the rear kitchen woodwork was rotten in places, needing some repair work to be done, and signs of water ingress around floor level woodwork. Sitting inside, it was quite dirty, and it smelled like a derelict house, so really not good and not something I want to invest in.

Autosleepers do an identical model on a Ford Transit 2.5 Diesel, mid 90s for around £13k. Can anyone advise how these compare to the T4?

Thanks again. Kev.
My first reaction just from your above description would be to walk away quite quickly!

I can't comment on the Ford Transit option as I've been a VW nut since 1968. If the expletives that I heard in my converter's workshop last week are an indication of camper converting on a new Ford Transit are anything to go by I wouldn't even go there!

Be patient Kev, keep searching and you will find a good-un.

My son has just bought a 1989 VW Westfalia T3 (Type 25) which is in excellent condition bodily and interior wise but needs serious engine work for quite a bit less that you are talking and his will be an appreciating asset when the engine is done. The diesel engine in that is a modified VW Golf unit so relatively easy to get parts for and he is capable of doing whatever is needed.

His is like this but not this actual one.

1700392429449.png
 
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Walk away from that, sounds like a real uncared for, damp example and that’s just your first impression without more careful scrutiny, which will inevitably lead to a lot more problems.

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Leave it.
Most motorhomes are fitted out internally before the sides and roof are fitted
Repairing rusted or leaky motorhomes can entail labour intensive removal of internal units, ceiling and wall linings, carpets, flooring, wiring, plumbing in order to gain access to damp or prevent fires when welding. You'll either spend frustrating weekends doing the work or possibly a thousand or much more with a restorer and once rust, corrosion and leakage gets going it's rarely a simple task to fix it.
 
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Leave it.
Most motorhomes are fitted out internally before the sides and roof are fitted
Repairing rusted or leaky motorhomes can entail labour intensive removal of internal units, ceiling and wall linings, carpets, flooring, wiring, plumbing in order to gain access to damp or prevent fires when welding. You'll either spend frustrating weekends doing the work or possibly a thousand or much more with a restorer and once rust, corrosion and leakage gets going it's rarely a simple task to fix it.
This was a van conversion not a coach built but I understand what you are saying.
 
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Lots of councils have by laws banning over nighting in lay bys.
Lots of lay bys have signs saying no camping over night.
Have you not seen any ?
I've seen loads.
lorries overnight in lay byes all over the uk where did you find it was illegal

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Lots of councils have by laws banning over nighting in lay bys.
Lots of lay bys have signs saying no camping over night.
Have you not seen any ?
I've seen loads.
Councils putting up signs saying no parking does not necessarily mean it's illegal.
 
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Councils putting up signs saying no parking does not necessarily mean it's illegal.
It does if the council have a by law against though doesn't it ?
My sister's SIL was fined last year in Pembrokeshire for parking in a lay by over night.
He had to pay or be taken to court and have the fine increased.
I'm pretty sure therfore that what he had done was illegal.
2 weeks ago in Powys I saw plenty of lay bys with no overnight parking signs.
 
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It does if the council have a by law against though doesn't it ?
My sister's SIL was fined last year in Pembrokeshire for parking in a lay by over night.
He had to pay or be taken to court and have the fine increased.
I'm pretty sure therfore that what he had done was illegal.
2 weeks ago in Powys I saw plenty of lay bys with no overnight parking signs.
True if there is a by-law. But I said not necessarily. Sometimes the signs are just bluff and cannot be enforced.

Many laybys are provided for trucks to rest and sleep and they re ok.

Wouldn't stay on any myself 😉
 
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True if there is a by-law. But I said not necessarily. Sometimes the signs are just bluff and cannot be enforced.

Many laybys are provided for trucks to rest and sleep and they re ok.

Wouldn't stay on any myself 😉
It could be a Welsh thing as our glorious leader Mark Dripford and his Labour cronies in the Sennydd are anti tourism.
 
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Hello again folks.

I've revised my expectations a little having spoken with someone who bought an R =reg Fiat Ducato for £10k. She reckons a good one can be a great motorhome. Any thoughts generally and also on the best age to go for on something like this?

I'm currently looking at this one

Also, Fbook Maketplace seems to be full of far too good to be true motorhomes at cheap prices - are there a lot of scammers on there?

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I'm currently looking at this one

I'd want assurance that the corrosion has been properly sorted, although in fact I wouldn't buy the vehicle as rust and corrosion can be a never ending and very expensive pit.
Here's what it failed on at last year's MOT...............

1702980684298.png

Also, Fbook Maketplace seems to be full of far too good to be true motorhomes at cheap prices - are there a lot of scammers on there?

Many posts on here about scammers on all platforms.
 
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Has it had one careful owner and several not so careful owners. You will never know the true history unless the current keeper has been the only owner. As vehicles get older, spares become more problematic, the saving grace is likely that VW/Fiat/Peugeot are common around the world so in theory spares should be available but might require some digging to source. Who knows about trouble and breakdown expense. You might be lucky, but equally unlucky that just after you buy it something breaks. We took a punt on a 21 year old Ducato based Swift with 45K on the clock.
With the VW chassis, spares should not be a problem but I cannot comment on the body.
 
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Thanks Spriddler! I guess at this age and this price rust is going to be inevitable? What would I be likely to need to budget for in terms of annual treatment of corrosion? And is it all fixable?
 
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What would I be likely to need to budget for in terms of annual treatment of corrosion?
It's impossible to guess. The problem with rust on older vehicles is that one never knows for sure the exact extent of it until starting to investigate the dodgy areas or remove panels.
I can only repeat the comment in my earlier post #43 when I replied that...... repairing rusted or leaky motorhomes can entail labour intensive removal of internal units, ceiling and wall linings, carpets, flooring, wiring, plumbing in order to gain access to damp or prevent fires when welding. You'll either spend frustrating weekends doing the work or possibly a thousand or much more with a restorer, and once rust, corrosion and leakage get going it's rarely a simple task to fix it.

The rust/corrosion on the subject vehicle may have been very thoroughly, extensively and professionally dealt with but I doubt it because with a low selling price it's likely that it has been patched up just enough to get an MOT and last a while and in a couple of months it may need more work for the next MOT in March.
Do you have any history for it? E.g. for how long has the seller owned it? Perhaps the seller knows more work is needed and is getting rid whilst there are still a couple of months left on the MOT.
 
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this is where anyone with welding skills comes into their own ..... if you have the skills and time then everything can be sorted, otherwise i would walk away from anything with excessive rust HOWEVER its worth asking for some prices on these repairs as they seem fairly localised and might all be replaceable as opposed to need welding? some of the things that wont be on the MoT though is the condition of the floor in the habitation part of the motorhome and all the ancillary eqpt.

this is a potential replacement that MIGHT sort out the 'rust' if you have the skills .... I am not advocating you go down that path, just highlighting that there is actually a path there should you choose to take it! if you did go down that path i would make sure that all the rubber bits and joints were replaced while its on the ground, then they will likely last for a few good years and you can always provide documents/repair history to show it wasnt just 'bodged' when you sold it on?

 
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