Fire in junction box. Can anyone suggest where i can get the parts for this? Or, can i use a standard junction box? From a Ci Carioca 54 plate.

Dunks

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Ci Carioca
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For that task I would look at Wago connectors.

Personally I'd use insulated crimp butt ferules.. but they require a ratchet crimping tool, which is not particularly cheap, so few DIY bods have them.. hence not suggesting.

either way, you would still need to use an junction box..

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the melting has been caused by overheating due to poor / high resistance connections,.

scrap it , make new ends off, and use a 240v 16amp

Personally I'd use insulated crimp butt ferules.. but they require a ratchet crimping tool, which is not particularly cheap, so few DIY bods have them.. hence not suggesting.

either way, you would still need to use an junction box..
Thanks for the replies. When unscrewing the junction box and turning it on it's side, I see that there are 3 x 3 terminals in the box. I'm a bit wary to cut the wires at the moment. I've not seen a box like this one before.

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What I would be thinking to be honest is why has it over heated?

Are the connections loose?
Or to much being drawn current wise?

I would fix and when next using the van use a clamp meter and see what the current draw is just to be on the safe side.
 
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What I would be thinking to be honest is why has it over heated?

Are the connections loose?
Or to much being drawn current wise?

I would fix and when next using the van use a clamp meter and see what the current draw is just to be on the safe side.
The wire itself should melt before those terminals do. But spade connectors can come loose over time and can get high resistance causing just this problem.

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Thanks for the replies. When unscrewing the junction box and turning it on it's side, I see that there are 3 x 3 terminals in the box. I'm a bit wary to cut the wires at the moment. I've not seen a box like this one before.

View attachment 811734

Make sure you have plenty of spare cable each side of the cut.
 
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My wife was using a hairdryer shortly before
not the cause in itself,

it's been a combination of high resistance connections and the load causing the heat.. the MCB would trip when the insulation melted and the L and N, or L and E shorted out .. it would on fire before the short occurred.
 
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Personally I'd use insulated crimp butt ferules..
Are they also known as boot lace ferules . Answer yes just checked. And i've got a crimp tool. When someone suggests a method or tool i like it when they suggest the best method and an appropriate practical alternative.
 
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Are they also known as boot lace ferules . Answer yes just checked. And i've got a crimp tool. When someone suggests a method or tool i like it when they suggest the best method and an appropriate practical alternative.
Not the same thing no. If you tried to use the tool for a bootlace ferule on it you wouldn't get it off the cable after :p
 
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Are they also known as boot lace ferules . Answer yes just checked. And i've got a crimp tool. When someone suggests a method or tool i like it when they suggest the best method and an appropriate practical alternative.
err..no, bootlace ferules are not the same as butt ferules ..but the names vary ..

boot lace ferrule
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through or butt ferrule

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When I was sorting out Tam's Northernraider van, mains wiring all burnt out same type push-on connection block must be an Italian thing. They are not really suitable for high cirrent mains.
I cut all the connectors off and joined the wires with Wago connectors and put them in a junction box.
 
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When I was sorting out Tam's Northernraider van, mains wiring all burnt out same type push-on connection block must be an Italian thing. They are not really suitable for high cirrent mains.
I cut all the connectors off and joined the wires with Wago connectors and put them in a junction box.
Spade connectors are friction fit, not positive pressure. So over time the connection does weaken especially if the wires are not hard fastened down to avoid all movement.
They also oxidise even if they do not loosen. I really do not like spade connectors for anything other than temporary connections.
I prefer bullet connectors over spade but best of all are Wago.

I didn't like wago at first. I thought they were gimicky and stuck with screw terminals. Until I spoke to a couple of sparky friends from my youth who raved about them. So did a bit of youtube searching for actual tests and they were all positive.

So now, it is pretty much the first thing I reach for in pretty much any application.
 
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I used the wago ones for the solar panel and discovered all the original ones are wago ones too in our Chausson.
 
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For that task I would look at Wago connectors. Quick and very hard to make a bad connection.
Does that also apply to non branded wago style. Is there something specific about the wago brand not in the generic? Is wago a generic name or a specific brand should be first question.
 
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Does that also apply to non branded wago style. Is there something specific about the wago brand not in the generic? Is wago a generic name or a specific brand should be first question.
It's a specific brand. I think there are other similar ones. They come either in a one time only push fit or a reusable lever type. I think they're great as they grip the wire well and are very easy to use I always use the lever type.
 
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For that task I would look at Wago connectors. Quick and very hard to make a bad connection.
Never actually used them, been out of the electrical 'game' for a while, things move on, but can see why they are popular..

Just my thoughts...

Pros
Hard to make a bad connection.
No special tools required . ie ratchet crimping tool ..but would advise to use an automatic wire stripper.
Quick to make off
Good conductivity

so ideal for unskilled labour, ie on electrical panel production lines
also easy for the DIYer

Cons
relatively expensive for everyday use
bulky compared to using insulated ferrules.

I can certainly see the attraction, but for myself, probably not ,
I have bags of insulated ferrules of all sorts to last a lifetime
 
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