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100%For that task I would look at Wago connectors. Quick and very hard to make a bad connection.
For that task I would look at Wago connectors.
the melting has been caused by overheating due to poor / high resistance connections,.
scrap it , make new ends off, and use a 240v 16amp
Thanks for the replies. When unscrewing the junction box and turning it on it's side, I see that there are 3 x 3 terminals in the box. I'm a bit wary to cut the wires at the moment. I've not seen a box like this one before.Personally I'd use insulated crimp butt ferules.. but they require a ratchet crimping tool, which is not particularly cheap, so few DIY bods have them.. hence not suggesting.
either way, you would still need to use an junction box..
The box is just a cover for some spade connectors. I wouldn't worry too much about that.I'm a bit wary to cut the wires at the moment. I've not seen a box like this one before.
The wire itself should melt before those terminals do. But spade connectors can come loose over time and can get high resistance causing just this problem.What I would be thinking to be honest is why has it over heated?
Are the connections loose?
Or to much being drawn current wise?
I would fix and when next using the van use a clamp meter and see what the current draw is just to be on the safe side.
Thanks for the replies. When unscrewing the junction box and turning it on it's side, I see that there are 3 x 3 terminals in the box. I'm a bit wary to cut the wires at the moment. I've not seen a box like this one before.
View attachment 811734
a fuse wouldn't stop it melting due to the terminals high resistance, unless it was caused by an overload.. and i have no doubt there is an MCB protecting these circuits.Think I’d want some fuses along the line somewhere
Mcb did trip but didn't stop it from catching firea fuse wouldn't stop it melting due to the terminals high resistance, unless it was caused by an overload.. and i have no doubt there is an MCB protecting these circuits.
My wife was using a hairdryer shortly before.Mcb did trip but didn't stop it from catching fire
not the cause in itself,My wife was using a hairdryer shortly before
Are they also known as boot lace ferules . Answer yes just checked. And i've got a crimp tool. When someone suggests a method or tool i like it when they suggest the best method and an appropriate practical alternative.Personally I'd use insulated crimp butt ferules..
Not the same thing no. If you tried to use the tool for a bootlace ferule on it you wouldn't get it off the cable afterAre they also known as boot lace ferules . Answer yes just checked. And i've got a crimp tool. When someone suggests a method or tool i like it when they suggest the best method and an appropriate practical alternative.
err..no, bootlace ferules are not the same as butt ferules ..but the names vary ..Are they also known as boot lace ferules . Answer yes just checked. And i've got a crimp tool. When someone suggests a method or tool i like it when they suggest the best method and an appropriate practical alternative.
Spade connectors are friction fit, not positive pressure. So over time the connection does weaken especially if the wires are not hard fastened down to avoid all movement.When I was sorting out Tam's Northernraider van, mains wiring all burnt out same type push-on connection block must be an Italian thing. They are not really suitable for high cirrent mains.
I cut all the connectors off and joined the wires with Wago connectors and put them in a junction box.
I linked the lever typeFor stranded wire you will need the 221 wago lever type. The push on it’s for solid core wire only.
For that task I would look at Wago connectors. Quick and very hard to make a bad connection.
Does that also apply to non branded wago style. Is there something specific about the wago brand not in the generic? Is wago a generic name or a specific brand should be first question.For that task I would look at Wago connectors. Quick and very hard to make a bad connection.
It's a specific brand. I think there are other similar ones. They come either in a one time only push fit or a reusable lever type. I think they're great as they grip the wire well and are very easy to use I always use the lever type.Does that also apply to non branded wago style. Is there something specific about the wago brand not in the generic? Is wago a generic name or a specific brand should be first question.
Never actually used them, been out of the electrical 'game' for a while, things move on, but can see why they are popular..For that task I would look at Wago connectors. Quick and very hard to make a bad connection.