Lizbiebrowne
LIFE MEMBER
Thanks Russ for going to all that trouble. I only hope I can translate your comprehensive instructions into a positive result.This one will move the TRAILING EDGE of the door in and out of the doorframe and also lift or lower the trailing edge of the door in relation to the doorframe. To adjust the door OUT of the door frame you will need to loosen the torx bolt next to the three white adjustment lines and pull the door OUT of the doorframe. To adjust the door UPWARDS in relation to the door frame you will need to loosen the bottom nut on the bolt that acts as the hinge and correspondingly tighten the top nut by the same number of turns, every full turn will translate to about 1-1.5mm up/down vertical movement of the door relative to the door frame. You may have an issue with the door dropping so lifting the trailing edge of the door will help, however I still think the issue is the latch mechanism.
This one will move the LEADING EDGE of the door up and down and in and out in relation to the door frame, it has to be adjusted UP AND DOWN at the same distance as the corresponding slide mechanism at the top of the door ( the photo below) To adjust the door UPWARDS relative to the door frame you will need to loosen the three torx headed bolts ON THE DOOR, by a max of 1 turn each to give you some friction between hinge and door and prevent the door from going completely out of alignment, to make the door move UPWARDS relative to the doorframe use a lever or a strong helper to lift the bottom edge of the door making the hinge move down the door (I hope that makes sense!!). TIGHTEN AT LEAST ONE TORX BOLT IMMEDIATELY! To make the BOTTOM OF THE DOOR move IN AND OUT of the doorframe you need to loosen the grey nut and move the door in or out according to the three guide marks.
THE TOP OF THE DOOR MUST BE ALTERED UP OR DOWN AT THE SAME TIME AS THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR, IT DOESN'T MATTER TOO MUCH ABOUT IN/OUT.
This one alters the UP AND DOWN and IN AND OUT of the top of the door, it works a bit like the trailing edge adjuster in that there is a threaded hinge that allows the door to move up/down relative to the door frame. To move the door UP loosen the top nut by the same amount you moved the bottom plate/door joint (pic above), then tighten the bottom nut by the same number of turns. To move the TOP LEADING EDGE of the door loosen the bolt in the middle of the mechanism and adjust in or out accordingly.
Having said all of this I still think your issue is the latch/lock mechanism. My reasoning is that the stick on decals on the trailing edge of the door seem to line up perfectly with the those on the side of the van, the swage or fold contours in the door seem to line up well with the the door frame when the door is shut, and you say the lock/door opening has gradually become more of a problem. My experience of dropped doors is that it looks really obvious that it's dropped because the swage lines are out of alignment and getting the blighter to open or shut is a pain in the Arras all the time and doesn't materialise gradually.
Hope this helps!!
Cheers!
Russ