Dometic Fridge - Help!!

[Scotch mist]

I’m a heating engineer BUT have never had the privilege to work on any 3 way fridges , so don’t know exactly how they work

just some thoughts, so be easy on me if I’m way out

Having a flame on the thermocoupling won’t necessarily allow gas on to the main burner , the main burner may be operated by a diaphragm valve , electro magnetic valve or solenoid valve controlled by the thermostat

 

[Wee Bold Davy]

@JFD We had a very similar problem when we bought our new van last June. The Dometic fridge worked on perfect on hookup and worked on the gas for an hour or so then cut out. We booked it in to be fixed under warranty. We were told there was two possible causes. The easy fix was a new thermo coupler or if that didn't work, the fridge would need to be taken out and a new fridge regulator would need to be fitted.
The easy fix worked for three hours before cutting out, so it had to be plan B. I can't be sure exactly what he did but he did fit a new fridge regulator as far as I'm aware and it's been OK ever since.
Why not contact Dometic and ask them what the problem could be before you end up with a huge bill, could be something simple
I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for them to reply to your email. I've been waiting for a fortnight for them to get back to me regarding a problem with my wind out awning creasing and not winding back in properly

 

[JFD]

Thanks, . These three way, absorbent fridges are a little odd, to say the least! There is no main burner, the single flame is enough to effect the change to the refrigerant, as does the 240v element when on mains, and the 12v element when on vehicle battery.

Thanks, too, , I was going to call them, but the problem seems to be resolved, although I am not totally sure why!!

 

[Scattycat]

Had a similar problem last year when in Spain. Turned out to be the burner, had it replaced and it's been fine ever since

 

[Scotch mist]

Thanks, . These three way, absorbent fridges are a little odd, to say the least! There is no main burner, the single flame is enough to effect the change to the refrigerant, as does the 240v element when on mains, and the 12v element when on vehicle battery.

Glad to hear it’s working

(Trying to educate myself here)
I’m assuming there is a thermostat that controls the amount of gas that goes to the single flame thus controlling the temperature?

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[Jaws]

Glad to hear it’s working

(Trying to educate myself here)
I’m assuming there is a thermostat that controls the amount of gas that goes to the single flame thus controlling the temperature?

Not really and yes at the same time !
The gas supply IS controlled by a thermostat, but it is not incremental ... Just on or off

 

[SuperMike]

It’s lump hammer time.

 

[Jaws]

It’s lump hammer time.

 

[Badknee]

We were in Spain for the winter in 2017 without ehu for weeks and noticed the fridge was getting warmer. @gus-lopez took us to a workshop where they used a bottle brush with a big long wire handle that went in the bottom of the flu and reached to the top and a vacuum cleaner was placed under it to catch all the crud, easy.
Now the odd part. The flame looked ok but the mechanic decided to fit a new jet. In it was a 45 but he only had a 46 but we thought it would be better. That didn’t work any better so he rang Dometic with the model number and our fridge should have had a size 15! Why? Where had my 15 gone? A new one was ordered and two days later fitted and all has been well since, mind you it sounds like a blow lamp on full now

 

[Jaws]

mind you it sounds like a blow lamp on full now

It always shocks folk just how loud the gas sounds !
Especially as the jets tend to block VERY slowly so they do not notice the gradual quietning down.. Then when it comes back up to ful strength they are shocked !!
Often get the comment 'bloody hell, that will empty my gas in a day !!!'

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[Martyh]

If the fridge works ok on gas but fairly frequently the igniter begins to click as if trying to light again then you may find the multi connector going to the burner control device is loose and the little connectors are not making a good connection. The first pic is the connector, the second pic if you look close you can see the gap and then the third pic with the gap closed. Mine has been perfect since.

View attachment 300570 View attachment 300571 View attachment 300572

I have discovered exactly the same connection problem fault with my connection block. How did you remove the connectors from the connector block. I don't want to just pull the cable, and assume they are held in place by a lug of some sort. I hadn't realised until I saw your pictures that they were removable for adjustment and cleaning.

 

[dpsuk999]

I have a set of pin removal tools like in the picture below, if you haven’t got these then a small needle will work

 

[Martyh]

If the fridge works ok on gas but fairly frequently the igniter begins to click as if trying to light again then you may find the multi connector going to the burner control device is loose and the little connectors are not making a good connection. The first pic is the connector, the second pic if you look close you can see the gap and then the third pic with the gap closed. Mine has been perfect since.

View attachment 300570 View attachment 300571 View attachment 300572

If the fridge works ok on gas but fairly frequently the igniter begins to click as if trying to light again then you may find the multi connector going to the burner control device is loose and the little connectors are not making a good connection. The first pic is the connector, the second pic if you look close you can see the gap and then the third pic with the gap closed. Mine has been perfect since.

View attachment 300570 View attachment 300571 View attachment 300572