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That would explain why I have never thought about it. We don't do UK vans.Turning off the 12v when the engine is running is a UK thing because it is a requirement of the NCC (the middle C stands for Caravan). That is why most, if not all, UK converters do so. It may be sensible for a caravan, with nobody in it while the tow car engine is on, but daft for a motorhome IMHO. Our previous Adria and present Hymer keep the 12v on until we choose to switch it off. That enables us to charge stuff while we drive along. And we can keep the Alde heating on using the engine heat exchanger to keep all of the motorhome warm and have hot water when we stop.
Also saves the converters having to spend loads of money on EMC testing.As someone above says, turning the leisure 12v off British thing promoted by the idiots of the NCC and so called Clubs.
You may find if you switch the 12v habitation power off your fridge still works this is what happens on the Hymer I suspect the same will happen on your Adria it’s worth double checking.Our Adria has a compressor fridge so 12v needs to be on when driving.
Have tried that but the fridge switches off.You may find if you switch the 12v habitation power off your fridge still works this is what happens on the Hymer I suspect the same will happen on your Adria it’s worth double checking.
We turn ours off having had a fountain in the kitchen on one occasion.Don't know any reason to turn off 12v when travelling.
Why not just turn the pump off.We turn ours off having had a fountain in the kitchen on one occasion.
We have one of these taps that the end swivels upwards to allow the sink lid to close. It also features a mixer handle that is up for hot but is made solid metal. Driving along a rough road, a combination of vibration and gravity took over and opened the tap! Believe me, a lot of water gets pumps in the time it took the navigator to vacate her seat and get back to turn it off.
That's the only reason though, and never have on the two previous vans.
Same for usOur UK Motorhome sorts out the fridge’s 12v supply when engine is on.
Rest of habitat electrics are isolated with the ignition engaged.
Never needed the habitat area powered when driving so handy that the fridge is on its own circuit
No1 on the checklist, but occasionally we forget the checklist.Why not just turn the pump off.
I do that as well. Belt and braces. Really not a mopping up experience I want again. It was wet and cold outside so drying it while away wasn't easy.Why not just turn the pump off.
That's the reason for it: nothing to do with NCC or Clubs.Also saves the converters having to spend loads of money on EMC testing.
If it's a Hymer, as in your avatar, the fridge control board and the heater controls should remain powered if you switch off the habitation power using the display panel switch. The fridge relay will automatically power the 12V fridge element from the alternator/starter battery.Do you have to leave the 12v on when traveling, the question is mainly aimed at powering the fridge when the setting is on the cab battery?
Been wired incorrectly it should have a permanent 12v supply.If I turn off the 12v the truma frost valve will release and dump all fresh water, also we would need to turn it back on at every stop to enable toilet flushing.
Mike and Ann
That is very odd. There is no electrical connection to the Truma frost valve.If I turn off the 12v the truma frost valve will release and dump all fresh water, also we would need to turn it back on at every stop to enable toilet flushing.
Mike and Ann
I think there was on older versionsThat is very odd. There is no electrical connection to the Truma frost valve.
Odd, my manual says turning off the 12v at the electroblock will open the dump valve. The old type with the red lift up knob definitely needed an electric supply to keep it closed. The later blue one perhaps not. Mine is the blue one, but the manual may be wrong.That is very odd. There is no electrical connection to the Truma frost valve.