Do solar panels on modern Burstners charge only the hab battery?

[Essgeebee]

My 2021 Burstner has been parked without EHU for almost three weeks. I check the batteries about twice a week using the vehicle’s control panel. The hab battery remains fully charged but the starter battery has dropped gradually to 12.2v.
The last time it was parked for a while the same happened. There’s been plenty of light for the solar panel.
Does the panel charge only the hab battery I wonder? If so, is that normal? I worry that I might not be able to start it after a longish layover.

 

[Nuno Gomes]

Yes they are. I think I lowered the front flap and unclipped the tie wraps on the heater pipes and then slid the tray out. Then slid the seat forward and made connections through the back.

It was a while ago. Was a little tricky but not too bad.

Fitted mine this week to the electrobloc under the passenger seat. Fortunately on my Burstner getting to the rear of the seat wasn't too difficult (see earlier pictures). I could just manage to get to the terminal screws and fitted the 2 positive connections but the space was too small for the negative as there was already 2 wires in there. Got around this by earthing the battery master to the seat support. Fiddly but job done and battery level on the cab already up from 12.2 to 12.7v

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

solar will work all the time if yours isnt charging the leisure batteries either theres some thing wrong or your drawing more than it produces

 

[GeoffnDee]

I had a go over a week ago. Whatever way you approach it is tricky - I chose, following another post, to remove the metal plate and plastic vent guard behind the passenger seat. That exposed the battery connection block. It was a fiddly job making the connections but I did it. After all the fiddle and faff, I have yet to see the gratifying red light on the battery master indicating charge is flowing to the engine battery, even on hookup.

Essgeebee The LED charge indicator light on the battery master should be on all of the time it is connected (either red or green) ,The red light should be on straight away, showing that a trickle charge is taking place, if all of the connections are correct , with the light turning green and remaining on when the batteries are about equally charged ,

 

[Essgeebee]

Essgeebee The LED charge indicator light on the battery master should be on all of the time it is connected (either red or green) ,The red light should be on straight away, showing that a trickle charge is taking place, if all of the connections are correct , with the light turning green and remaining on when the batteries are about equally charged ,

Yes, that’s what I understand. I haven’t seen the light turn red at any time after installing it. It’s been continuously green, at least every time I look. On my control panel, the hab battery has been up at about 13.2v and the cab at 12.2. I thought that would trigger a trickle charge but the battery master light stayed green. Since then the hab battery has dropped a bit and the cab stays at 12.2v.

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[GeoffnDee]

It is possible to check that it is working ok , EHU disconnected, if you turn on the ignition ( do not start the engine) , hazard warning lights, heater blower and headlights you should see the light change to red as it tries to replace the power being taken from the starter battery. If you then turn these things off it will eventually turn green again when the power has been replaced in the starter battery .If this basic test does not confirm all is ok there is further testing instruction that can be found if you google vanbitz battery master testing (A pdf that can be downloaded)

 

[Nuno Gomes]

Yes, that’s what I understand. I haven’t seen the light turn red at any time after installing it. It’s been continuously green, at least every time I look. On my control panel, the hab battery has been up at about 13.2v and the cab at 12.2. I thought that would trigger a trickle charge but the battery master light stayed green. Since then the hab battery has dropped a bit and the cab stays at 12.2v.

I found that simply plipping the central locking would momentarily make it red.

 

[Essgeebee]

It is possible to check that it is working ok , EHU disconnected, if you turn on the ignition ( do not start the engine) , hazard warning lights, heater blower and headlights you should see the light change to red as it tries to replace the power being taken from the starter battery. If you then turn these things off it will eventually turn green again when the power has been replaced in the starter battery .If this basic test does not confirm all is ok there is further testing instruction that can be found if you google vanbitz battery master testing (A pdf that can be downloaded)

Thanks. Tried what you suggested, several times. I couldn’t do the ‘crank test’ but even with everything on and the voltmeter on the panel showing 11.4, there was not a blink of red so I think there’s something not quite right. I followed the installation instructions carefully so I’m sure it’s wired up correctly. My battery doesn’t seem to be on the blink (two years old at most).
Bummer.

 

[GeoffnDee]

Is it possible that a battery supply fuse (near the battery terminal) has blown ,causing the green light to stay on , as shown as a possible cause in the Battery master testing PDF download , if not maybe it would be worth talking to vanbitz for other ideas as to what could be wrong. (or eddievanbitz may have a suggestion)

 

[Essgeebee]

Is it possible that a battery supply fuse (near the battery terminal) has blown ,causing the green light to stay on , as shown as a possible cause in the Battery master testing PDF download , if not maybe it would be worth talking to vanbitz for other ideas as to what could be wrong. (or eddievanbitz may have a suggestion)

Yes you could be right. I’ll get the battery covers off in the morning and see what I can see. Nothing ever seems to be straightforward with motorhomes, does it.

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[j8snl]

We have a 2019Iexe 736, the solar regulator is under the front passenger seat, it charged both batteries but only kept the engine battery at around 12.2. Check the voltage at night and around midday. Don’t forget the security system/immobiliser will draw some current so if the engine battery is only down to 12.2 something is keeping it topped up or it would be a bit lower I should think

Hi Bessy765,

Thanks for this post, an older one but I got a Burstner Lyseo recently and been challenged by this as well. My previous AutoSleeper everything was easy to see and the control panel would show the charge coming from the solar and the charge in both batteries so I knew it was working.

Not so easy with the Burstner, the control panel just has the LED's and no way to know, yes the leisure battery charge moves up but the engine battery simple hovers around 12.2. I'm usually parked up for no more than 2 weeks without being away somewhere and the Phantom Tracker app keeps an eye on the battery, where you see it slowly drop down whilst idle but never below 12.2. Image from my Phantom App Battery History attached.

I have the solar regulator under the passenger seat next to the EBL and can see at least 4 connection wires into it so assumed both batteries were connected, but I've found this system a lot more difficult to get my head around that the Sargeant control panel in my Auto Sleeper and just wasn't sure if it was really working but thought something needs to be keeping it topped up at 12.2 if I'm idle for 2 weeks.

 

[Essgeebee]

Hi Bessy765,

Thanks for this post, an older one but I got a Burstner Lyseo recently and been challenged by this as well. My previous AutoSleeper everything was easy to see and the control panel would show the charge coming from the solar and the charge in both batteries so I knew it was working.

Not so easy with the Burstner, the control panel just has the LED's and no way to know, yes the leisure battery charge moves up but the engine battery simple hovers around 12.2. I'm usually parked up for no more than 2 weeks without being away somewhere and the Phantom Tracker app keeps an eye on the battery, where you see it slowly drop down whilst idle but never below 12.2. Image from my Phantom App Battery History attached.

I have the solar regulator under the passenger seat next to the EBL and can see at least 4 connection wires into it so assumed both batteries were connected, but I've found this system a lot more difficult to get my head around that the Sargeant control panel in my Auto Sleeper and just wasn't sure if it was really working but thought something needs to be keeping it topped up at 12.2 if I'm idle for 2 weeks.

I’m the OP and had been worried about the engine battery being around 12.2v after standing for several weeks. The hab battery was up around 13+v.
Anyway, having fitted a Battery Master two weeks ago, nothing at all has changed. The most important thing to me is that today for the first time in about 7 weeks, I started her up and the engined turned over and fired first time. Perhaps my fears were unfounded and I didn’t need the BM after all. Based on your experience, that seems about right.

 

[j8snl]

I’m the OP and had been worried about the engine battery being around 12.2v after standing for several weeks. The hab battery was up around 13+v.
Anyway, having fitted a Battery Master two weeks ago, nothing at all has changed. The most important thing to me is that today for the first time in about 7 weeks, I started her up and the engined turned over and fired first time. Perhaps my fears were unfounded and I didn’t need the BM after all. Based on your experience, that seems about right.

Thanks Essgeebee,

So, yes the same for me with the setup I have, although as stated mines never sits idle for more than 2 weeks, and has always started first time, not even a struggle.

However, reading this sent me to the MoHo at lunchtime to have a check and now I'm really not sure, and absolutely not qualified to know if this is really working. Yes I have two sets of two wires coming out of the LR1218 next to my EBL119 one set going to the solar module connection and one set going to what seems to be the leisure battery, nothing connected to the starter.

So, now I really don't know if it's working as it should or it's just running every two weeks and not dropping below 12.2v, my guess is it's not doing what I thought, as I'd expect all those 3 connections wired on the top right of the LR1218 not 2, the starter is missing.

I also had a look under the drivers seat where the leisure battery is and found these two cables connected to nothing.

If anyone has any thoughts I'd welcome them, but better keep a close eye as trips become less

 

[VXman]

Hi Bessy765,

Thanks for this post, an older one but I got a Burstner Lyseo recently and been challenged by this as well. My previous AutoSleeper everything was easy to see and the control panel would show the charge coming from the solar and the charge in both batteries so I knew it was working.

Not so easy with the Burstner, the control panel just has the LED's and no way to know, yes the leisure battery charge moves up but the engine battery simple hovers around 12.2. I'm usually parked up for no more than 2 weeks without being away somewhere and the Phantom Tracker app keeps an eye on the battery, where you see it slowly drop down whilst idle but never below 12.2. Image from my Phantom App Battery History attached.

I have the solar regulator under the passenger seat next to the EBL and can see at least 4 connection wires into it so assumed both batteries were connected, but I've found this system a lot more difficult to get my head around that the Sargeant control panel in my Auto Sleeper and just wasn't sure if it was really working but thought something needs to be keeping it topped up at 12.2 if I'm idle for 2 weeks.

My Burstner gauge invariably reads 0.2-.0.5volt lower than my multi reader. I don't think the Burstner gauges are very accurate.