Do I need vents if....

I'd block both vents for now Lyn and see how the new fridge runs once it's installed.
Be easy enough to uncover 1 or both vents should you find you need to.
I've gotta take the old fridge out first, still not put my battery charger in yet 😂
Couple of jobs for next weekend
 
If I get rid of my 3 way fridge ( which doesn't work on gas anyway)
Can I, internally, cover up the vents?
Yes you can . There's no vents in the wall behind your fridge in the house , you don't need them in the van.


I had a 240v fridge in my euramobil that ran of inverter 24/7 first thing I did was blank the vents inside and fit vent covers on the outside.

Who needs unnecessary drafts
 
No you don’t but you have ventilation all round and at the top
Generally Motorhomes have it a tight fit all round
You compressor fridge will be getting too hot fan will be cutting in too often
Where? In every house I owned with an integrated fridge there was a worktop on top and cabinets either side. Same as in a camper.

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Where? In every house I owned with an integrated fridge there was a worktop on top and cabinets either side. Same as in a camper
Have you got out of the wrong side of the bed today
I,m bored if you dont understand simple practicle advise thats given on instalations I,m wasting my breath
Its simple just because you have experienced instalations that should have ventalation doesnt make it right
No one is saying your fridge wont work
The idea is to give correct advice and people can take it or leave it
No bang on about it
 
I have just installed my compressor fridge .It is completely sealed from the inside of the van. The condenser is fan assisted . I've left the vents in as if they were blocked the sun on the outside wall of the van combined with the fan trying to cool the condenser would only result in the air in the trapped space getting hotter & hotter & in a short while the compressor would be dead.
 
I would just make this comment that fridges/freezers in your kitchen have a larger area so vents are unnecessary.
 
If you look at any Dometic fitting instructions you should have through ventilation for compressor fridge
Just because people don’t doesn’t mean it’s not good practice
Actually Dometic is quite clear about just the opposite.

" If the compressor fridge replaces an absorption unit, you have to
make sure, that the external ventilation grills are completely closed,
otherwise there is the risk, that the compressor will not run at low
ambient temperature (~below 0 °C)."
(https://www.dometic.com/externalassets/rcl10-4et_9600049608_99491.pdf?ref=1160961906)

They also state that the performance starts to suffer at <10c ambient and the freezer is the first to warm up.

Most compressor fridges are optimzed to work at room temperature and the efficiency suffers if you stray too far either way, even if I would like think cold surroundings would make it easier for the fridge :) I think the main reason is that the ambient temperature affects the coolant properties, it will become thicker in low temperatures.
 
Actually Dometic is quite clear about just the opposite.

" If the compressor fridge replaces an absorption unit, you have to
make sure, that the external ventilation grills are completely closed,
otherwise there is the risk, that the compressor will not run at low
ambient temperature (~below 0 °C)."
(https://www.dometic.com/externalassets/rcl10-4et_9600049608_99491.pdf?ref=1160961906)

They also state that the performance starts to suffer at <10c ambient and the freezer is the first to warm up.

Most compressor fridges are optimzed to work at room temperature and the efficiency suffers if you stray too far either way, even if I would like think cold surroundings would make it easier for the fridge :) I think the main reason is that the ambient temperature affects the coolant properties, it will become thicker in low temperatures.
Hi Thanks I know this You have jumped the gun the diagrams are showing internal ventilation but thankyou for explaining in detail

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Most compressor fridges are optimzed to work at room temperature and the efficiency suffers if you stray too far either way, even if I would like think cold surroundings would make it easier for the fridge :) I think the main reason is that the ambient temperature affects the coolant properties, it will become thicker in low temperatures.
So pretty much no different to what was happening with these fridges years ago as I mentioned in my post #16, they don't like really cold weather! I well recall one funster who at the time had an Autocruise Alto I think who was having problems due to the fridge not liking the colder weather so they had to put the heating on to warm it up so it worked properly. :rolleyes:
 
So pretty much no different to what was happening with these fridges years ago as I mentioned in my post #16, they don't like really cold weather! I well recall one funster who at the time had an Autocruise Alto I think who was having problems due to the fridge not liking the colder weather so they had to put the heating on to warm it up so it worked properly. :rolleyes:
Yep and for some the optimal temperature range is actually quite high. For example one Thetford fridge I was looking at had 18c lower bound for operating range in the datasheet. Personally I think that's so high that I'm unsure if that fridge is actually good for winter use at all, even without external vents. Placed against the wall inside the cooking block or cupboards and -20c outside, I suspect the +18c will be hard to reach behind the fridge even if the living space is +20c. Unless you do some extra modifications to ensure enough warm air circulates behind it, of course.
 
Thanks guys, I don't have the vents that can be covered externally so it's a pain to unscrew them to stop the wind, very noticeable over the last 2 days, I think, as said I might cover the lower one permanently and leave the top one
I'm a bit late to this, but one important thing is that you should never be getting draughts and wind into the habitation area from the vents at the back of the fridge, if it's a 3-way gas-powered fridge. If you're getting a draught, that's a sign that the seal sound the edge of the fridge at the back is not complete, and fumes/carbon monoxide from the gas flame could be leaking into the habitation area.

A 3-way fridge isn't 'room-sealed' like a Truma gas heater, which has an inlet and outlet in the same flue pipe, sealed off from everything. A fridge on gas has the air inlet open at the back, and the flame exhaust fumes rise up through a flue to the outside. The whole thing is not sealed, so there is a possibility of fumes blowing into the habitation area.

To prevent this, the fridge rear area must be enclosed round the edges, usually with plywood boxing, and sealed with foam. If the fridge is removed and replaced, people unaware of its purpose may not ensure that the foam sealing the edges is back in its proper place. If you are getting a draught from the vents, something is very wrong in there.
 
Hi Autorouter, as I said, the fridge has never worked on gas and I don't use hook up so it seems a massive inconvenience to have the draught without even the benefits of a working fridge.
I've been looking at various options but at the moment I'm toying with the idea of reconfiguring the inside so I'm not gonna make a decision too soon but the bloody vents are getting covered 😂
 

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