Disconnection of the CBE522 Charger to replace with Victron XS50 B2B... what to do with these cables ? (12 Viewers)

[MarkHoughton]

So I am still in the prep stage for installing the Victron upgrade with the XS50 B2B and the Multiplus 1600va Inverter/Charger.
All the bits are mounted onto a fireproof board to be slid into place , so it's just the final cable connections now ( and the snipping of the R37 ).
I am sure I will get shot down now but please help. In the photo attached of my existing CBE522 charger, I have highlighted "B+/B-" and "D+?" wires/cables.

[1] If/when I snip the R37 what do I do with these cables ?
[2] If I remove the old charger where do I then bolt down those B+/B- cables too ?
[3] Do I just leave the white cable loose ( tie-wrapped somewhere ) or disconnect it from the CBE distribution board ?
[4] On an earlier thread ( back in 2020 ) when using a lower amp B2B posters identified the middle 50A fuse as being for the original B2B feed though I did not have a B2B. I have installed a 100a mega fuse in the spare slot which will attach to the 25mm cable run through the double floor to the "B2B in" in the garage ( via a 2nd 100a midi fuse ) then out ( via a 3rd 100a fuse to the positive busbar connection. Do I just leave the original fuses in place ?
[5] Is it good practice to have the glass "up" on the engine bay fuse or face down ?
[6] a VanBitz battery charger is connected to the B2B ( purchased from Roger Ivy at Offgrid and followed his video on how to do that ! Thank you Roger Ivy )

Earths : B2B 25mm cable fixed to the 250A busbar which is fed to ground with a 50mm cable bolted to the chassis. The inverter/charger is fed to ground with a 6mm cable bolted to another part of the chassis ( it's 50mm cables sitting on their respective +/- busbars ).
The original earth points are still in place and bolted to another part of the chassis.
At present, none of the new kit is actually connected to the existing system.

[7] What else do I need to consider ?

Thanks in advance for guidance.

 

[Lenny HB]

Blimey that was a confusing post.
Doesnt matter which way up the fuse is the glass just so you can see if it's blown.
100 amp are a bit high I would fit 80amp, you only need one the the starter battery the input cable can go straight to the B2B and just one fuse on the output lead near the leisure battery.

I think the white lead maybe the 12v to the control panel to show when mains is connected. On my unit the D+ is grey but I'm only guessing.

 

[MarkHoughton]

Blimey that was a confusing post.
Doesnt matter which way up the fuse is the glass just so you can see if it's blown.
100 amp are a bit high I would fit 80amp, you only need one the the starter battery the input cable can go straight to the B2B and just one fuse on the output lead near the leisure battery.

I think the white lead maybe the 12v to the control panel to show when mains is connected. On my unit the D+ is grey but I'm only guessing.

Hi Lenny,
The 100amp fuses were supplied in the B2B kit I purchased from VanJunkies. I did not want to guess what I needed, but relied on them to provide an adequate kit based on the 7m run from the engine to the garage.
I thought if I number my questions, I could then get answers to them individually.
Thanks

 

[AdrianChen]

1) & 2) - Those cables should go down to the B2 and GND terminals in the DS470, so you can completely remove them -
3) The small white signal wire is exactly as LennyHB says, and can also be removed from the DS as well
4) I think there would have been a 16mm cable from the fusebox to the B1 terminal in the DS470 - This is what gives you the cab battery voltage on your panel, and is also used to charge the leisure batteries via a 70amp relay in the ds470 which will be disabled when you snip the 0 ohm resistor (R28). Not sure if that is the middle 50amp fuse, but easy to check if removed the display panel will no longer show the cab battery voltage. Once the resistor is snipped, the cable will only supply the starter voltage to the panel, a bit overkill in size terms, but its there....
5) As per Lenny HB

The thin white cable in your photo labelled D+ isnt D+, it is as Lenny said just a 12v signal to show your EHU connection.

You can get D+ from your DS470, mine were FA4&5 but the labels change over the years so may be different on yours. Carthago/CBE had supplied a thin grey(?) cable and spade socket on the end of it which I found in the main bundle of cables coming from the DS - Testing it confirmed it was a D+ - Pop a couple of photo's of your DS470 up - they may be easy to spot if not hidden by the wire bundle.

The CBE522 battery charger mains connections (not labelled in your photo) I presume are to be removed/replaced for your new inverter charger?

If you have Solar remember to isolate it so you don't have a live system!

 

[MarkHoughton]

1) & 2) - Those cables should go down to the B2 and GND terminals in the DS470, so you can completely remove them -
3) The small white signal wire is exactly as LennyHB says, and can also be removed from the DS as well
4) I think there would have been a 16mm cable from the fusebox to the B1 terminal in the DS470 - This is what gives you the cab battery voltage on your panel, and is also used to charge the leisure batteries via a 70amp relay in the ds470 which will be disabled when you snip the 0 ohm resistor (R28). Not sure if that is the middle 50amp fuse, but easy to check if removed the display panel will no longer show the cab battery voltage. Once the resistor is snipped, the cable will only supply the starter voltage to the panel, a bit overkill in size terms, but its there....
5) As per Lenny HB

The thin white cable in your photo labelled D+ isnt D+, it is as Lenny said just a 12v signal to show your EHU connection.

You can get D+ from your DS470, mine were FA4&5 but the labels change over the years so may be different on yours. Carthago/CBE had supplied a thin grey(?) cable and spade socket on the end of it which I found in the main bundle of cables coming from the DS - Testing it confirmed it was a D+ - Pop a couple of photo's of your DS470 up - they may be easy to spot if not hidden by the wire bundle.

The CBE522 battery charger mains connections (not labelled in your photo) I presume are to be removed/replaced for your new inverter charger?

If you have Solar remember to isolate it so you don't have a live system!

Hi Adrian,
Thanks for the detailed replies. Am I confusing the R37 and R28 ? I presume this is the only resistor/zero ohm that needs snipping ?
I had read on other posts about a white cable potentially being the D+, so clarified that now.

Rightly or wrongly, I would welcome guidance before connecting, but was going to use the existing cables for pos/neg from the existing busbars and move them to the new busbars ? The cables are the original Carthago ones. Do I need to replace these with beefier ones given the addtion of the inverter ?
I have the solar panels isolated anyway at the moment seeing as we have precious little sunshine just now and it's plugged in EHU on the driveway.

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[AdrianChen]

Hi Adrian,
Thanks for the detailed replies. Am I confusing the R37 and R28 ? I presume this is the only resistor/zero ohm that needs snipping ?
I had read on other posts about a white cable potentially being the D+, so clarified that now.

Rightly or wrongly, I would welcome guidance before connecting, but was going to use the existing cables for pos/neg from the existing busbars and move them to the new busbars ? The cables are the original Carthago ones. Do I need to replace these with beefier ones given the addtion of the inverter ?
I have the solar panels isolated anyway at the moment seeing as we have precious little sunshine just now and it's plugged in EHU on the driveway.

The resister/link is the same, on many ds300 and others it's labelled R37, on the ds470 I think it is R28, but you can easily spot it using the colour band codes printed on it which should be a single black band.

The original Carthage cables and the fuse (60amp?) to feed the ds should be fine given you are not pushing any new loads through the cbe system. The inverter I understand is wired via busbars direct to the battery through suitable cables and fuses.

If you have a shunt that should be the only connection to the battery negative, whith the bus bar connected to the load side of the shunt