disconnecting leisure battery with solar panel - is it safe?

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Hi all,
first night away at Stratford on Saturday & the leisure battery was completely flat when we came back from watching 'Peter Kay' so we had to start the engine just to get a light on!!
We have a solar panel & that was working fine a few weeks ago but now I'm getting 14+ volts in the morning but down to 10v by the evening with nothing switched on (that I can find).
I want to disconnect the leisure battery and charge & test it but will the solar panel be OK or do I have to turn something off first - obviously I won't let the terminal touch anything!

cheers
Chris
 
Hi all,
first night away at Stratford on Saturday & the leisure battery was completely flat when we came back from watching 'Peter Kay' so we had to start the engine just to get a light on!!
We have a solar panel & that was working fine a few weeks ago but now I'm getting 14+ volts in the morning but down to 10v by the evening with nothing switched on (that I can find).
I want to disconnect the leisure battery and charge & test it but will the solar panel be OK or do I have to turn something off first - obviously I won't let the terminal touch anything!

cheers
Chris
You MUST Isolate the solar panel Before you disconnect the Leisure Battery, and connect a new/recharged battery before reconnecting the solar panel, either remove the fuse from the solar panel feed to the solar controller/regulator or cover the solar panel with a sheet of cardboard or a towel, with your battery readings it sounds like either your battery has had it’s day or something is being inadvertently left on or draining your battery.
 
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They are both connected to the battery terminals. I was just going to disconnect the negative??
I went out just and the voltage has dropped from 13.5 30 mins ago to 10.9 now it's going dark - looks like it must be the battery :cautious:
That sounds very much like my recent experience. Batter seemed fine then voltage dropped to 10 something. I took it out, put it on my shed bench and connected my CTEK charger. All the CTEK lights suggested it was accepting charge but a couple of hours later the CTEK was too hot to touch. Disconnected and the battery will be going to the tip. Reason for posting is to warn about possible fire if the charger in your van tries to recharge it and gets too hot like mine.
 
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OK it's definitely had it, from charged it drops to 10v without any load - also I can hear it bubbling when it's on charge so a cell must be gone.
Any opinions on which battery is best from these two:
Yuasa L36-AGM class A 95AH Absorbent Glass Mat 'dry' battery I think at £155
or
Halfords HLB750 class B 110AH lead acid battery at £125

Apparently the Absorbent Glass Mat batteries generally last longer but are sensitive to overcharging & high voltage.
AGM batteries are about the worst choice for Motorhome.
If you don't do much off grid stick with a flooded cell like the Varta LDF range.
If buying from Halfords get a Halfords trade card (apply online & pick up at store they never ask for proof of trade). Saves over 25% on batteries makes them cheaper than Battery Mega Store.
 
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Is the Victron a simple swap in for the old Duo controller?
Unfortunately not, the Victron has one battery connection, yours has two, I assume configured for engine battery, and leisure battery, in my case I still needed solar for the engine battery, and therefore just connected a "battery master" between the two, if you don't spend any time off grid this may not be a problem, just connect the leisure battery. Victron kit is one of the best you can use.

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I had some issues with my battery and controller, instead of connecting and disconnect the solar every time I wanted to take the leisure battery off, on the advise from here, I fitted and 20 amp trip on the pos lead so I can just flick the button for maintenance time
 
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AGM batteries are about the worst choice for Motorhome.
If you don't do much off grid stick with a flooded cell like the Varta LDF range.
If buying from Halfords get a Halfords trade card (apply online & pick up at store they never ask for proof of trade). Saves over 25% on batteries makes them cheaper than Battery Mega Store.
Is that experience of AGM batteries or from research? The reason I ask is I've just bought one :crying:
I read a lot about them and they seem better than wet batteries and similar to Gel for holding voltage & taking loads.
The solar panel seems to all be working OK and the charger on hook up and also the alternator so hopefully it was just the battery!
My son has a Halfords trade card so I did get the 20% off - partly why I went for the more expensive battery.
It's worth pointing out that you don't get discount off everything with a trade card, I bought a new bike chain and that was the same price, I think it just covers service parts & tools mainly - if you have an AA card you get 10% off everything though!

thanks again everyone for your help :thanks3:
 
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Is that experience of AGM batteries or from research? The reason I ask is I've just bought one :crying:
I read a lot about them and they seem better than wet batteries and similar to Gel for holding voltage & taking loads.
The solar panel seems to all be working OK and the charger on hook up and also the alternator so hopefully it was just the battery!
My son has a Halfords trade card so I did get the 20% off - partly why I went for the more expensive battery.
It's worth pointing out that you don't get discount off everything with a trade card, I bought a new bike chain and that was the same price, I think it just covers service parts & tools mainly - if you have an AA card you get 10% off everything though!

thanks again everyone for your help :thanks3:
Last van had AGM's they lasted 18 months and they wouldn't honour the warranty. Loads of us on here have had problems with them even our leader Jim. Loads of bad reports on them on German forums. They are just not suitable for use as a leisure battery.
Probably OK if you buy the professional ones buy they are nearly as dear as Lithium.
 
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Hi all,
first night away at Stratford on Saturday & the leisure battery was completely flat when we came back from watching 'Peter Kay' so we had to start the engine just to get a light on!!
We have a solar panel & that was working fine a few weeks ago but now I'm getting 14+ volts in the morning but down to 10v by the evening with nothing switched on (that I can find).
I want to disconnect the leisure battery and charge & test it but will the solar panel be OK or do I have to turn something off first - obviously I won't let the terminal touch anything!

cheers
Chris
discontent it at night, should be safe😁.... hope that helps

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Is the Victron a simple swap in for the old Duo controller?
As previously said No but the Votronics Mppt duo range is suitable also 5% fun discount from roadpro
 
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A lot of the problems peeps get are because of poor charging, not necessarily how they are used. Different types of batteries and different optimum charge profiles so it also depends on what charger you have. You may be ‘stuck’ with FLA if that all your charger will support. If it’s not charged properly it will give you a limited life on your battery. I’ve installed a B2B charger and built in MPPT solar controller and a 7 stage charger so everything charges everything in a very ‘managed’ and prioritised way. Never ever worry about any of my batteries now. Self sufficient so far, will give up one day but hopefully some time off yet 😀👍
 
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Tip! Don't be silly worth 10-15 quid at the scrapie.
Wish I lived near your scrapie then, took my old Yuasa AGM to ours yesterday (it was down to about 60Ah after 4 1/2 years) and got £7.80 for it (30p/kg)!
 
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Yep

Same wire out the old one into the new one

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Wish I lived near your scrapie then, took my old Yuasa AGM to ours yesterday (it was down to about 60Ah after 4 1/2 years) and got £7.80 for it (30p/kg)!

I recently got £7 for a nominal 60Ah car battery. I'd think a 110Ah leisure battery would have been about £10. They quote 45p/kg. TBH, I was happy that I didn't have to take it down the public tip, which still requires booking in advance.
 
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Get a better solar charger so you can at least see what's going in


See what's in your battery


And buy two of these


I got a discount of 5% on solar charger and battery sensor

And free vent kit for the batteries
Did you know the Halfords HLB700 is the same battery as YUASA EFB 100AH. Halfords aren't always halfrauds....
 
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Yes I did but halfords didn't have any of them as it was during lockdown and I wanted to get them fitted so I could use the van
 
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Did you go for the YUASA branded ones then?
I know there are merits in gel/AGM but I decided to go for old school wet lead acid, albeit EFB. Lithium is still yet in its infancy. It may have advantages but it's still far too expensive. I worked in a bus manufacturing plant and I was intrigued by the constant improvements in the battery technology. They were building 600v lithium battery banks! Many of them were being returned for various reasons (from London New Routemasters). The cells would have been fine for storage use (rather than traction). I could have got small packs for free because of the disposal cost. But that was then.....
 
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Yes I went with the yuasa efb from alpha batteries, yes they worked out at £120 a battery with free vent piping and free delivery.

I could of got them cheaper but no one had them in stock and they did

It's only been 6mths but went from 1 x 85Ah to two x 100ah batteries with victron solar from the dreadful thing I had before and coupled it with the smart battery sense aswell

Think the most the batteries have been down to is 12.42v and that when I went away for ten days in the van moving about a 100miles every three days

Im happy with them and the set up works for me, will be interesting to find out how it all works when I do some shift paramedic shift and have to live from the van in October for two weeks

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I was a bit worried about the venting. Is the vent on the left hand side of the battery, covered with a red plug but nothing on the right hand side?
I removed this plug but didn't get around to putting a vent pipe on it. I guess gassing should only be a problem if it's allowed to overcharge, which shouldn't happen if you're happy with your charging system (mine's a Renogy B2B).
My battery bank is under a bed in the habitation area. Hydrogen rises.... Oh dear, I'd better get a vent kit just in case.
 
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Send you a picture of mine as I have two batteries like this...
 
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I used a battery bracket which I secured to the floor and then connected the batteries using the harness from Sargent
The problem with those is the cables are way under size.

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The problem with those is the cables are way under size.
I did notice that too after greeting it but I did email Sargent and they said it was fine but not sure how

They are fitted and it seems to all work

Yes vented to out side the vehicle through the battery box, no point in vent a battery into the habitation area 😂
 
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Yes that's what |I want to remedy...
I forgot, you're working with a motorhome. I'm with a converted van, I have to find a place to put the hole.
 
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Yes that's what |I want to remedy...
I forgot, you're working with a motorhome. I'm with a converted van, I have to find a place to put the hole.
I did secure with a rubber gromit as the battery box had venting already
 
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Nearly all UK build vans the wiring is under size. We'll worth upgrading to give better electrical performance.
But how much is that going to cost as a full rewire is why why above what I can do, I can do simple things like roof light replacements, joinery and put doors back on

I can save your life if you get shot or blown up but electrics are out of my knowledge

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But how much is that going to cost as a full rewire is why why above what I can do, I can do simple things like roof light replacements, joinery and put doors back on

I can save your life if you get shot or blown up but electrics are out of my knowledge
You can just double up the wiring to higher current devices like the heater, lighting being LED will be OK, well worth doing between the batteries and the distribution unit.
 
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