Damp motorhome project - Roof repair

[Johnenigma]

Hi Terry any chance you can post a link to the small plunge saw and track saw you've got?

Last week Lidl were advertising a plunge saw.

 

[Johnenigma]

Hi the best / cheapest that works / is Puraflex40 from Toolstation under a £5 a tube sticks anything and half price of Sikaflex. ( Also made by them ) Where things are stuck with double tape use a length of wire like a cheese wire
I think Lidle are doing a cheap Parkside 4ins plunge saw at the moment, will do what you need My tracksaw was +£600 so not needed Small belt sander was about £50 get 80 grit belts,on thin boards it's like using a power plain but very controllable

Don't need a cheese wire for the tape. It has all come apart.

 

[Terry]

Cannot post a link on phone,but if you Google small plunge saw it comes up with a few from Toolstation, Screwfix , Argos etc

 

[Argar]

Last week Lidl were advertising a plunge saw.

Just seen that, going to nip over later but suspect none left!

 

[Argar]

Terry Couldn't remember the name of the alternative to Sikaflex, will be buying a batch when I next need some!

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[Terry]

Terry Couldn't remember the name of the alternative to Sikaflex, will be buying a batch when I next need some!

It will stick your Batton's to Ali and F glass plus anything else you need to stick plus if you leave it open (with nozzle on ) it does not cure after 24 hrs unlike Sikaflex I use it for sticking all sorts in my builds instead of screws

 

[Johnenigma]

My motorhome, the gift that keeps on giving. Following all the wonderful advice, I have stopped demolition and concentrated on what is already demolished. Took out a corner post that was rotten, thank goodness for a multitool (from Lidl), but it was still quite hardwork. To find there were pinholes in the panel and aluminiunm rot on the seam. Help please, how do I go about repairing this?

 

[The Coops]

Still need a gallon of four star? Possibly could lead to spontaneous combustion occurs due to the heat generated in drying out quite common in hayricks!

 

[TheBig1]

you will need to clean it up and bond in aluminium patches on the inside. If the whole panel is pinholed, it is either replace it, or coat the inside with rubber fibre tanking paint. But if it is too bad, no choice but to bond on new panels

 

[Terry]

Replace panels Don't bother trying to paint over that lot

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[TheBig1]

Looking on the bigger screen of my laptop, that is a re-panelling job

 

[Johnenigma]

Still need a gallon of four star? Possibly could lead to spontaneous combustion occurs due to the heat generated in drying out quite common in hayricks!

Are you saying that the dissimilar metals that caused the corrosion may also cause it to ignite now there is no water around it??? Hahaha.

 

[The Coops]

Basic chemistry 1960's O level!

 

[Johnenigma]

Basic chemistry 1960's O level!

Yes I know. It was a funny remark about a quicker solution to the repair, rather than a technical question. Thanks.

 

[Johnenigma]

I had to do a similar repair. With all the roof ply and insulation removed, looking up there were so many pinprick corrosion holes it looked like the night sky. I chemically treated the corrosion then applied self adhesive alloy patches, marked the inside then sealed the outside first. That meant I could then know where to apply the interior patches. I then painted the inner surface of the alloy roof skin with household gloss. I did glue a 3mm ply sheet up first then the ew roof battens, celotex and patterned wallboard. I worked on the principle that the 3mm ply, roof battens and wallboard formed a box section for strength. Once all was up I sealed all edges with Silastik to prevent moisture rising up to the alloy skin. I applied two coats of EDPM rubber to the roof to finally seal everthing. EDPM rubber was Pro Guard Liquid Rubber from Allrimes Coatings Ltd.
View attachment 444887

I am reading your thread with interest, I have decided to use the same method as you have.
My questions are, what plywood did you use against the aluminium roof, specialist 3mm or B&Q 3.6mm?
At the moment, with only partial dismantling, I have only found 1 pinhole.
Now I have started my repair, I feel your pain.
How did you glue it to the aluminium? My slight concern is if using something like PU40 that it may cause lumps in aluminium, because of its consistency it does not spread.
Using props and spreader bars, how to clamp it to the aluminium while adhesive goes off and cures?

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[Argar]

Just wondering if anybody has any recommendations of the best way to hind the joins between wallboards? Unfortunately I can't get the jointing tape for Bowburn which is the wallboard we're using.

 

[Terry]

You can get a H section plastic strip or a 2 piece strip, fasten half to van side and the other half clips into bottom half ( overlaps each board by about 6 mm each side

 

[Argar]

Terry I've seen the H strip - do you know of anywhere that will send without charged £20 in postage?

 

[Terry]

Hi, sorry I usually pick it up while getting the rest of stuff for build.No idea on postage/ delivery costs. All I can suggest is ring around, you will only need4/5 lengths.

 

[Terry]

Just done a Google search, found Tubeway,small 2way H section for 3 to 5 mm boards

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[Lenny HB]

These any good.

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[The_Kraken]

Caravan Warehouse do a good selection of wallboard trim with matching paper or they also do plain trim and separate wallpaper if they don’t do your matching trim so you can at least glue some on yourself.

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[Johnenigma]

I had to do a similar repair. With all the roof ply and insulation removed, looking up there were so many pinprick corrosion holes it looked like the night sky. I chemically treated the corrosion then applied self adhesive alloy patches, marked the inside then sealed the outside first.

Going through posts again, I have now got to this point where I have to repair some holes in the roof. I am removing the Flue (I think the original source of water ingress) and the TV aerial.

There is some corrosion around these holes, can I ask what you used to chemically treat the corrosion?

There doesn't appear to be any pin prick holes as yet, apart from 1 hole. My thoughts on the hole left by removing the flue, 2 pack epoxy bond a piece of aluminium to the underside, then 2 pack epoxy bond a patch on the top of the roof. Seal the underneath patch with aluminium tape and PU40 with PU40 around the top patch? I don't really want to put any more screw holes in the roof.

 

[Argar]

Installed the beams and put in some insulation - ready to add wallboard next.

 

[Argar]

This weekends progress - got the first ceiling board glued in - that was probably one of the difficult jobs so far - but looks good!

The next job is to add the plywood layer above insulation before moving on to fitting ceiling boards at the back of the van!

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[Argar]

More ceiling board glued in now - need some better weather to do the plywood layer above.

 

[Vipar]

Are those Akro’s home made?

 

[TheBig1]

Are those Akro’s home made?

those are standard plasterboard props and absolutely brilliant.

 

[Argar]

Are those Akro’s home made?

Hi as TheBig1 says they are standard plasterboard props have seriously helped me do the roof. The price has nearly doubled since I bought the longer ones last year!

Bought them off eBay btw!

 

[Argar]

Plywood all installed and sealed - screws for internal furniture fixed in. That's the roof nearly finished until the read wall is done!

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