D+ Source on 2018 Fiat Ducato Based Adria Twin

[Alesupper]

Hi All, I have no voltage on my D+ cable going into my EBL208S. Does anyone know where this is fed from and also the location of the fuse? This is on a 2018 Fiat Ducato based Adria Twin. Please see attached photos. I presume that this is the D+ relay because the green wire goes to the D+ input on the EBL208S (pin 16). TIA.

 

[Jim Schush]

Just checked pin 1 and voltage is good, also checked pin 3 with engine running and again voltage good.
I am using the van for a couple of days over the weekend so I will try and work out from the schematics how to test block 1 to test if there’s any output from the EBl.
Thanks again to everyone for the advice so far.

 

[fred_jb]

Hi..
The d+ as we refer to it does not necessarily have to have a voltage present..
On a ford transit I had the d+ provided for the converter was a ground switching signal...
You could use this to power a relay coil..which in turn could then provide a 12 volt feed to power circuts which were required to be engine run actuated..
Hope I've explained that OK.
Andy

Same situation with the Fiat Ducato. The so called D+ signal is actually a connection which connects to earth when the engine is running. It's available on a connector under the B post lower panel alongside a connection which gives 12V when the ignition is switched on.

In my van the converter has used these two connections to power a relay which then activates when the D+ signal goes to earth. The relay is used to switch a 12V supply on whenever the relay activates, and it is this positive signal which is used as the D+ input to the EBL and potentially other equipment. This means that any fault finding of the D+ operation needs to include checking this relay and its connections.

 

[Jim Schush]

Having spent the last few days away in the van with no other issues other than fridge not operating on 12v whilst driving and 12v Starter battery indicator not operating on 12v, I have checked what I can see and get to, I found the negative battery terminal to be loose, I have tightened it up and can confirm 12v power inc D+ going into the EBL, 12v including D+ coming from EBL and also 12v inc D+ present at both sides of the fridge connector.
I have visually checked the PCB board and cannot see the burnt out fuse that I had last Christmas when I had to have a new PCB board fitted.
I am now looking at how it is best to check if the DC heater element could of failed.
I am also wondering if there is any warranty on the PCB board that I had fitted last year ( just in case that’s the problem).

 

[Jim Schush]

Just an update on this issue, the EBL was sent away for repair and I was advised to change the vehicles starter Battery (almost 7 years old).
Refitted both the EBL and the new starter battery today and everything is now working.

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[autorouter]

Refitted both the EBL and the new starter battery today and everything is now working.

When you say everything is now working, does that include the fridge on 12V while driving, or is that still a problem?

 

[Jim Schush]

When you say everything is now working, does that include the fridge on 12V while driving, or is that still a problem?

The fridge is now working while driving.

 

[Jim Schush]

Update….
Everything worked as it should over the weekend with the fridge working whilst driving and the battery 12 v reading working fine.
This morning as we left York I checked the battery after I unplugged the ehu and no reading from the new starter battery and when started the fridge stays on Gas.
Fuses again all look ok so I am again scratching my head.
When I refitted the EBL I replaced the 5 pin mate lok that connects to the unit, the top connecter that looked previously heat stained was cleaned and refitted.
Maybe I should possibly re look at that connector again and if necessary replace that connector.