D+ Simulator control wire (1 Viewer)

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MisterB

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enough to know i shouldnt touch things i know nothing about ....
Has anyone fitted a D+ simulator in their motorhome? Or have any experience of them?

I want to connect my sat dish control box to a D+ so it automatically retracts when the ignition turns on and wondered if it was a viable option.

We use the switch on the sat dish control at the moment and it's not an issue but I do like it when 'things work' automatically!!

I could remove lots of trim etc and locate a D+ under the dash, but the D+ simulator might make it easier to install.
 
Jan 28, 2008
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if you use a smartcom relay it can de fitted to any live wire, they are adjustable up to about 13,5 volts so only make the circuit once the alternator kicks in . smartcoms are said to be unreliable but this is because people use them to carry more amps than designed for just using it to produce a d plus will be fine. if i knew how i would show the wiring diagram thats in my head if your realy stuck pm me
 

funflair

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As a D+ is only a live signal albeit produced when the alternator is generating would it not be as easy or easier to just take any ignition switched +ve to the dish controller as the OP says they want it controlled on ignition on.
 

Lenny HB

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I expect your van already has a D+ relay box. Modern vans run so much off the D+ converters have to fit one to avoid damage to the alternator. Ours is under the passenger seat but it could be anywhere.
 
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MisterB

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I expect your van already has a D+ relay box. Modern vans run so much off the D+ converters have to fit one to avoid damage to the alternator. Ours is under the passenger seat but it could be anywhere.
Thanks, it's an Adria 2018 on a Fiat Ducato base - if anyone knows where the 'box' might be.

funflair - thanks, simple is best ( though simple may involve spending a few hours removing trim etc ! Hence why I'm looking for options.) and I will prob end up going down the switched live route though

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Tombola

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or maybe this adrai twin d+ could be similar to yours
 
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MisterB

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Where do the dish wires come down, anywhere near the fridge d+
Yes but I'm not sure about routing the wires from there. Adria fitted wires from the general area of the on board electrics up to the cupboard above the fridge for both a sat dish (3 wires) and solar (2 wires), so I was hoping to utilise those rather than running new cables.
 
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Jul 6, 2009
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If the cupboard where the wires are above the fridge, if you take the bottom vent off outside you should be able to pick up the wire that becomes live as its the one that controls the relay to power the fridge on 12 volts when the engine is running. Done the same to mine 2019 Burstner
 
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MisterB

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An old post but I did think I had it sorted BUT, the Renogy 60A DC to DC charger doesn't charge .... I've been through the check list to identify the problem and one of the checks is to ensure that the D+ signal is <9v .... I've checked and mine is 13.4 - I took the connection from under the dash that only became live when the ignition is on, as the D+ is only a signal wire I suspect I'm using the wrong connection and having an ignition live is not the correct connection to pick up.

I've contacted Renogy to ask them to confirm, but until then, can anyone offer any advice on how to resolve the issue please? I am currently touring and home next week, so it's not massively important, but it would be nice to resolve it sooner rather than later.

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Apr 27, 2016
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The Renogy 60A DC-DC charger should turn on whenever its D+ input is high, ie over 9V or so. You could check this by running a wire directly from the starter battery, via a switch. When you switch it on, it should start charging, and when you switch it off it should stop. Obviously don't leave it switched on a long time when the engine is stopped and the alternator is not charging the starter battery. If it doesn't respond correctly to the switch, then the problem wasn't the D+ signal.
 
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MisterB

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Thanks. I've just re read the trouble shooting list that Renogy sent to me. I obviously didn't read it right as I thought it needed a voltage of less than 9v but on re reading it, a voltage of less than 9v and the DC to DC won't operate. I tested the voltage at the D+ and it was 13.4, so it should operate.

The green light indicating that it is (or should be) working, there is no red light which indicates a fault
 
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If you drive a vehicle of the VAG family (VW, MAN TGE etc) which is fitted with a smart alternator (identifiable by the fitment of a battery monitor module attached to the battery -ve terminal) there is a dedicated circuit for this which originates on the Body Control Module (BCM). This signal is enabled by coding of the BCM and is normally used to switch in the supply to charge a second battery via a relay. This signal becomes active when the alternator is charging but will also drop when the vehicle 12v circuits are supplying extra heavy loads, i.e. load shedding.
Those of us with diagnostic equipment like VCDS can enable this on the BCM, which I have done on my own vehicles in the past.
 
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MisterB

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If you drive a vehicle of the VAG family (VW, MAN TGE etc)
Thanks but it does say earlier in the thread that the van is based on a Fiat Ducato
 
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MisterB

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Lenny HB

Thought I'd move this conversation to a different thread ... Thanks for the info re wiring up my B2B ... Is there anyway I can test it without having apuljak remove the charger?
I am just concerned that if only had the B2B and it failed whilst touring, how could I reinstate the ability to charge the battery?

Thanks
 
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MisterB

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MisterB. Like you Dave, I'm not that technically blessed either, but as the two posts above, I had the split charge system interrupted, by the fitting of a normally closed relay, which opens upon an ignition signal, thereby allowing the 60A B2B to fully charge the batteries, which are also powering the 3 x way F/F.

Should the B2B fail at anytime, I just need to disconnect either the pos or neg wire to the relay, which returns everything to normal charging from the CBE system.

Good luck with it. (y)

Jock. :)
Thanks. I do like the idea of 'interrupting' the split charging system !

I moved your comments to here as the other thread was being overtaken by well meaning Funsters and I felt it was turning what I thought was a simple helpful post based on a practical experience to one of correct terminology ... I wasn't going to go and tell the site operator that they really need to get their terminology correct and stop selling 2kw of electricity to anyone who wants it!! :giggle:
 

Lenny HB

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Lenny HB

Thought I'd move this conversation to a different thread ... Thanks for the info re wiring up my B2B ... Is there anyway I can test it without having apuljak remove the charger?
I am just concerned that if only had the B2B and it failed whilst touring, how could I reinstate the ability to charge the battery?

Thanks
Depends how the van is wired often just pulling the fuse they fit by the starter battery that feeds the distribution unit if the relay is inside, so easy to put back in.
You are worrying too much most vans now only have a B2B & no split charge relay & you have solar.

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