Copper grease

[Garfields]

As an aside
If you find wheels have seized on to the hub flanges
Replace the bolt/studs loosely drive forward a little and brake then back and break.
Much easier and safer than abusing with hammers etc
Alloy wheels can be really prone to the problem as mentioned above

 

[Guigsy]

Surely putting lubricant on threads is a bad idea? It reduces friction, so doesn't it just mean that that the specified torque for that fastener may no longer be enough to hold it in place for the forces it's designed to cope with?

 

[tonyidle]

Why copper grease? I'm firmly in the 'lube everything' camp but copper grease is only needed where extreme heat is likely. Chain spraygrease works for me.

 

[tonyidle]

Surely putting lubricant on threads is a bad idea? It reduces friction, so doesn't it just mean that that the specified torque for that fastener may no longer be enough to hold it in place for the forces it's designed to cope with?

It may - but it never has for me. But then I've never used a torque wrench on wheel fasteners either.

 

[gus-lopez]

Why copper grease? I'm firmly in the 'lube everything' camp but copper grease is only needed where extreme heat is likely. Chain spraygrease works for me.

i ave it .it is free.

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[tonyidle]

i ave it .it is free.

Good enough

 

[Steve L]

Never lubricate critical fasteners unless it is specified to do so. The friction of thread surfaces and underhead are essential items taken into consideration when specifying Torque figures. If you lubricate then apply the specified torque the Joint and fastener will be in simple terms be overtightened/ overstressed. Critical Fasteners :- a fastener where failure could cause damage or accident, obvious ones seat belt fasteners and wheel bolts/nuts. Copper grease exhaust fasteners at reduced torque.
NB:- It's the "Friction that prevents the assembly from falling apart.

 

[Geo]

You can take Horses to water !!

 

[donkey]

As the thread is titled 'Copper Grease' I would add that it was designed for exhaust nuts and bolts. The grease element obviously dries out but leaves a coating of copper. This helps future removal of said nuts and bolts.
It was never intended to be used on brake components.
There are some very good ceramic brake system lubricants available. I have been using one for about ten years now and can report that it has totally prevented any pad/calliper sticking on all the vehicles I maintain.
It may appear quite expensive but a little goes a very long way, as it should only be used sparingly.

Geoff

 

[L' Hobo]

As the thread is titled 'Copper Grease' I would add that it was designed for exhaust nuts and bolts. The grease element obviously dries out but leaves a coating of copper. This helps future removal of said nuts and bolts.
It was never intended to be used on brake components.
There are some very good ceramic brake system lubricants available. I have been using one for about ten years now and can report that it has totally prevented any pad/calliper sticking on all the vehicles I maintain.
It may appear quite expensive but a little goes a very long way, as it should only be used sparingly.

Geoff

Your right of course, we should all be using ceramic lub on our brakes BUT as you say, 'a little goes a long way' and this also applies to Copper Ease and I, and many others, still have a couple of pots of it which I will not be used up before my days.

By the way, I may be teaching my mother to suck eggs but Copper Ease should never be put on with ones finger. This may transfer detritus onto the thread etc.
Far better to use one of those little brushes one gets for cleaning your electric shaver, this you can leave in the tin.

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[Jaws]

Just a quick question is it a no no to put copper grease on wheel studs/bolts , I should know but for the life of me can’t remember. Thanks

Yes on steel wheels, emphatic NO on ally wheels
We in the UK often ( !!! ) get salt put on the roads
This will start an interaction ( by electrolysis ) between the copper and the ally and cause migration of the ally in to the copper
I know a lot of people use it but the above is true no matter what
For those that have used it of ally here is a test for you.
When you undo something after a few years and the copperslip has gone all sticky and bally sort of thing, what you are feeling is the ally in the copper
It is why you often do not find copper slip ( apart from a small tube ) at motorcycle dealers.. Apart from a few speci8fic jobs they just do not use it

 

[2GB Racing]

Very interesting subject this any getting plenty of comments, I also build race car engines usually just a ex road car engine but assembled with due care and many internal modifications ie blue printed.
When assembling the bottom end ie crankshaft ladder, big end eyes, head bolts, flywheel bolts, clutch pressure plate etc. The fasteners be it bolts, studs or nuts are replaced with ARP ( American racing products ) items specific for the installation and always the instructions are to coat the threads internally or externally under nut heads and both sides of washers with the supplied ARP lubricant then torque down to required torque.
This method allows less friction between metals giving false torque readings and correct clamping loads and calculated stretch as the ARP fasteners are stated as x number of uses depending on application.
The ARP lubricant is similar in viscosity to CV joint lubricant and far from Copper slip I add.

 

[Guigsy]

Very interesting subject this any getting plenty of comments, I also build race car engines usually just a ex road car engine but assembled with due care and many internal modifications ie blue printed.
When assembling the bottom end ie crankshaft ladder, big end eyes, head bolts, flywheel bolts, clutch pressure plate etc. The fasteners be it bolts, studs or nuts are replaced with ARP ( American racing products ) items specific for the installation and always the instructions are to coat the threads internally or externally under nut heads and both sides of washers with the supplied ARP lubricant then torque down to required torque.
This method allows less friction between metals giving false torque readings and correct clamping loads and calculated stretch as the ARP fasteners are stated as x number of uses depending on application.
The ARP lubricant is similar in viscosity to CV joint lubricant and far from Copper slip I add.

I guess that's fine, provided the spec is engineered for lubricated threads.

 

[Catpirate]

Hi Guys, I use copper slip on exhaust fastenings , wheel hubs and various other parts I wish to undo in the future, but not threads. Where I have Steel studs or bolts passing through aluminum I use this

Duralac Anti Corrosive Compound for Stainless and Aluminium (PB) 115ml

Duralac is a highly effective jointing compound which prevents electrolytic corrosion between dissimilar metals typically stainless fitting on an

www.marinesuppliesdirect.co.uk

Although made for stainless through aluminum it works for most steel bolts

 

[jockaneezer]

When I worked for a major tyre manufacturer, the curing presses, where the tyre is "cooked" in a mould with 600°C superheated steam had the majority of fasteners coated in copperslip, but they still seized and galled. We changed to using Triflow aerosol spray containing ptfe which seemed to help and as a bonus, it smelled of pear drops !

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[Steve L]

A long time ago I was gainfully employed supplying Fastening Tools to Industry the main ones being "Aerospace" and the "Motor Vehicle Industry. The tooling varied in sophistication but the cutting edge was tools that could count, tighten to torque, angle and yield either a combination of all three or just one or two parameters. Torque is the most common but just a compromise because of the possible variables within the assembly. Torque and Angle quite common ( as in my Merc Injector bolts) and finally yield. As far as I know fasteners taken to torque and angle or/and yield must not be reused. The objective was to assemble a vehicle with a complete record of all critical fasteners When, why and by whom. So in theory when the cam belt tensioner falls of your Fiat/ Peugeot /Merc and its a warranty claim they can track back via the Vin number to when it was assembled. The wheels will almost certainly have been attached using a 5 spindle nutrunner to a torque and possibly angle. Again traceable. All done to protect themselves from liability claims.
So the question is the wheel comes off your MH at 60mph and causes an accident ( people have been killed by truck wheels) the enquiry finds the wheel fasteners are lubricated (not to spec) are you liable? I have seen truck wheels where studs have broken and the centre of the wheel has become detached from the rim, nasty. I could go on and on. Trust not bored you to tears.

 

[PP Bear]

Yes yes and yes, I use it on all fasteners including plastic and have for years, they should make a man’s aftershave from it, it’s that manly.

Had this debate on here back in 2015, with eyes to the right, equalling nays to the left. I emailed copperslip directly and they standby the yes indeedy eyes to the right

Used extensively throughout my military career as well, so me 42 years of service says slap it all over (but not the brake surfaces you understand). Never had a wheel fall of a truck, landrover or challenger tank come to think of it.

 

[John Barrett]

Yes yes and yes, I use it on all fasteners including plastic and have for years, they should make a man’s aftershave from it, it’s that manly.

Had this debate on here back in 2015, with eyes to the right, equalling nays to the left. I emailed copperslip directly and they standby the yes indeedy eyes to the right

Used extensively throughout my military career as well, so me 42 years of service says slap it all over (but not the brake surfaces you understand). Never had a wheel fall of a truck, landrover or challenger tank come to think of it.

IIRC, bits fell off Chieftains and Challengers without any help from copper grease!
My consulancy stint at ROF Leeds in 1987 explained why!