compressor fridge

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Thinking abut getting a compressor fridge do they swallow up battery power 12v
bill
 
I have been pleasantly surprised with the Siemens 230v fridge freezer in my new Morelo. Had lot's of motorhomes, but none with an all electric fridge freezer. To start with it is fed from it's own stand alone inverter to prevent inefficiencies of having the main inverter on continuously. The stand alone inverter is powered by the demand control from the fridge freezer, when it calls for the compressor to run it starts the inverter and so the cooling process commences.

I have been very impressed with the cooling capacity and it is greatly more efficient than the usual absorption fridges I have had in the past. I am not too concerned about power as I have a large lithium bank fed from an equally large solar array. I was concerned about noise from compressor, although not a light sleeper we have both intentionally listened out for it and have not heard anything making any noise so far.

The other added bonus for us is no outside ugly grill which is required with the absorption.

Would I have it again, a little early to tell, but to date I am far more positive and impressed than I thought I may be prior to collection.

I pushed back on going gas free which Morelo are pushing so opted to keep the gas hob as opposed to the induction they now offer. I have however got the option of the 3 fuel supplies for the Alde heating which is always a bonus.
 
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3200ah......you aren't going to need solar or shore power for a few days at a time Bill
Wnen you consider most people only have around 200ah of lead acid.
 
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My Waeco compressor fridge always draws around 7amp when first starting. This drops to around 4 amps after a while. However, it is such an efficient unit that it soon gets down to temperature and obviously switches off.
By the way mine is also fitted with a Waeco MPS-35, which is an automatic power supply. It delivers the 12v, but whenever on EHU it switches over and delivers 24v, making the fridge super efficient on EHU. It has the advantage of not robbing the current coming from the onboard charger, allowing full output to leisure systems and battery.
By the way most Waeco fridges are rated 12/24volt.
Geoff
 
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3200ah......you aren't going to need solar or shore power for a few days at a time Bill
Wnen you consider most people only have around 200ah of lead acid.
You need to read the post where Bill says oops they are only 135ah each so I think revised to 540ah ;)

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Hydrogen vents upwards, it’s such a light and small molecule gas that is very hard to contain. The smallest of vent, gap, will let it out. The concentration of hydrogen air to combust is quite high, hence minimal ventilation is more than enough. Besides, the gas escapes on excessive gassing only, if he gets the voltage right for his use and conditions, it will have very little gassing. Hence I recommended the hydrocaps. They are specifically designed to recombine the gases back into the solution and return to the cell. I got mine fitted from new, and minimises the water top up, despite high absorb voltage.
But a charging problem in a battery would produce Hydrogen Sulfide which is heavier than air, that was the point I was trying to make ;)
 
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But a charging problem in a battery would produce Hydrogen Sulfide which is heavier than air, that was the point I was trying to make ;)
Very true, the rotten egg smell ( hydrogen sulphide) is always a indication of over charge, I had it once in the summer with plenty of ventilation. That’s why is important to find the equilibrium of the correct absorption voltage, in normal operation does not happen. Just hydrogen oxygen that will re combine most of it.
 
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Bill corrected himself and they are 135ah each so yes they would be manageable by hand (y) I wouldn't want to drop one in the hull of a boat though;)

I don't know what people do about venting lead acid batteries in boats but having Hydrogen Sulphide sitting in the bottom of the hull doesn't sound safe to me, don't want you to blow yourself up Wildbill
It's hydrogen gas and it's a vented lead acid battery hydrogen is lighter then air hydrogen sulfide is produced from rotten materials and crude oil or contaminated oil that stagnates
This boat has had lead acid battery's since the 1950/60s i am improving the battery locker to give better ventilation to.
I am putting in skin fittings port and starboard just below deck level and well abusive the water line to vent the locker that will be a sealed unit
the domestic gas locker is getting made out of GRP with a tight fitting lid and drop vent abusive water line
It will also have the bilge gas protection system up dated Co protection an all cabins
at least 1 fire extinguishers per cabin fire blanket for galley As well as a raw water fire fighting system hose
We already have the life jackets self inflating for all crew members fully serviced and ready to go
bill
 
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Do yourself a favour and get two 6v blocks of Trojan t125 or rolls surrette s300. Don’t bother with truck batteries, and fit hydro caps, instead original caps. It will save you allot of water top ups. I use rolls surrette 6v on the house, 8 of them for 48v system. Fitted new in March 2016 and still going strong. A hydrometer is mandatory, it will tell you exactly the health and state of the batteries like no other devise. I got hydrovolt that has the temperature compensation built in, made in Germany and very accurate, about 15 quid. Or a durite floater but you need to measure at 20 degC or calculate the temperature compensation.
My battery management is fairly good and i like tinkering i have always owned a hydrometer and thermometer
i only buy battery's i can top up my self on the boat's i have owned
bill
 
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Wildbill I have a compressor fridge in my doblo it is power hungry, it also has a faulty switch and is noisy.
I get round the faulty switch (it wont turn off) by removing the fuse, it does get very cold and i find if i have it nice and cold i can leave the fuse out overnight and everything is fine the next morning. Bit of a faff really need to source a new switch but fear it would mean removing the fridge completely and I don’t really want to go down that route.
 
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