Compressed air after drain down? ie Floe systems or similar?

PaulC70

PaulC70

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Bailey Autograph792F
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Since June 2021
So, came across the floe system at about £200 and wondered if it's snake oil but there seems a lot of good reviews and a search on here reveals people are actually using it with good effect.
Then I found the kit that I could add to the inboard tank https://www.obicampingandleisure.co.uk/floe-motorhome-draindown-kit-for-inboard-water-tanks/ which you basically tee into the system and use a compressor?

As some of the posts are a year plus old, can I ask those using either system if they are still happy with it, do they think it was worth it?
 
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There are a variety of floe draindown kits. The one you need is this one:

www.ebay.co.uk

Floe Motorhome Draindown Kit - For inboard water tanks | eBay

It is also supplied with barbed hose adaptors. The kit is supplied with an excellent instructional DVD. Floe Kits simply use compressed Air to push any water out of the pipework. Once this kit is fitted, there is no dismantling of any pipework or fittings.
www.ebay.co.uk

Mine was about £45 a few years back. I use a footpump to pressurie it.

It's also good for clearing out debris in the pipework (ie. black particles). Whilst on tour, the toilet solenoid valve started leaking and filling up the toilet bowl. A quick blast with the Floe removed the debris trapped in the valve.
 
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is there a need though?
open drain leave taps open not suffice ?

the site hwere I have a static uses a compressor at the end of the year for all the vans, but do we reaaaly need it in the MH ?
 
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Tombola said:
is there a need though?
open drain leave taps open not suffice ?

the site hwere I have a static uses a compressor at the end of the year for all the vans, but do we reaaaly need it in the MH ?
Click to expand...
I blow through each tap and leave open. Simply because a few years back droplets left in the tap ceramic mechanism froze and cracked the fragile ceramic internals.
Leak when refilled and expensive part.
 
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Tombola said:
is there a need though?
open drain leave taps open not suffice ?

the site hwere I have a static uses a compressor at the end of the year for all the vans, but do we reaaaly need it in the MH ?
Click to expand...
Im leaning toward a yes I have to admit, mainly as I've seen a few vids of their use where they have managed to remove some excess water but more yucky was the black particles also removed?
 
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Made up my own "Floe" system when we had our caravan back in 2012 \ 13 for a few pounds and used it a few times.
Used to get about 3/4 pint out of the pipework however never used it, or similar, on the motorhome.
 
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I fitted a DIY system similar to the one in Techno's post for very little and use the bike pump to push the water through, including the flush on the loo. cheap and simple to fit and does remove a fair bit of water laying in the pipes.
 
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I also have a DIY system. I teed a tyre (Schrader) valve into the pipe that comes out of the water tank (submersible pump type). After opening all the drain taps and running the pump til it's empty, I connect up a digital tyre pump with a cutout of about 1.5 bar (20 psi) to avoid the possibility of overpressurising the boiler. I then open the taps one by one, hot and cold, to blow out any remaining water. The digital pump switches on and off to keep the up the pressure. And don't forget the electric toilet flush too (forgot that once, it froze and cracked the solenoid valve).

Blowing air out of all the pipes and fittings is what swimming pool professionals do if there's a possibility of freezing.
 
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Another version of technos. I generaly remove the valve and use a 12v airbed pump to push the water through (low pressure high volume)
pump-pipework.jpg
.

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My ARV had a factory fitted compressed air system on the fresh tank and all pipework for draindown ......nothing new, it was a 1999 model.
 
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I did as a previous one, put a tyre valve onto a small piece of water pipe break the nearest connection after the pump then using a bike pump pressurise the system to 1.5 bars then drain exactly the same as the floe YouTube video, l think it cost about a £1
 
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Right so just been out to look at the van and took this photo.
pipe.jpg


So basically, water obviously flows from the submersible pump to the pressure switch and then onto the rest of the van. Im assuming if I put the T piece in after the switch (with a one way tap so as not to pressurise the switch) then this should be the right place?
 
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This is a pic showing the arrangement for a submersible water pump. So, your proposed configuration looks ok.

20211102_130757.jpg

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No idea what your pressure switch is for. There should be a non-return in the system somewhere, normally on the pump outlet, afaik. This prevents water in the pipework draining back into the tank.

Might be safer to locate the new closing valve and T-piece downstream of the "pressure switch".
 
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Wagoneer said:
No idea what your pressure switch is for. There should be a non-return in the system somewhere, normally on the pump outlet, afaik. This prevents water in the pipework draining back into the tank.

Might be safer to locate the new closing valve and T-piece downstream of the "pressure switch".
Click to expand...

I think I called it a pressure switch but now realise its the tap switch adjuster if thats the right name for it to adjust the pump?
 
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As a variation on the theme, I used a wetvac. I removed the filler cap to the water tank. There is a join in underside of the cap where a stiff plastic hose pushes in which the pump and non return valve attaches to. Slide the pipe out and put the wetvac hose over the end. Make sure you have at least one tap open, and probably the furthest away is best. Turn on the hose, and let it suck any remaining water out of the pipe run.You can then open taps closer along the pipe run and shut the one just done, and repeat till all taps have had the nozzle applied. Best to make sure there is at least one tap open all the time somewhere on the system. I saw a plumber doing this to internal copper pipes to get it ready for a new joint.
I only managed to pull about a cup full of water out of the system, but I had previously blown down the shower hose.
I also shut the valve on the boiler so as any residue left in there was dragged out as well. If, like me you already have a wet vac it's a cheap process.
Mike.
 
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I had a Floe system on our previous vehicle. Found I didn’t use it and feel comfortable that leaving the drain valves open as well as the taps including the boiler drain off is okay (until there is a problem that is).
 
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PaulC70 said:
I think I called it a pressure switch but now realise its the tap switch adjuster if thats the right name for it to adjust the pump?
Click to expand...

Do you have an external water filling inlet for directly attaching a mains water supply ?

If so, that's probably the reason why you have a pressure reducing valve (PRV). Directly upstream of the PRV is what looks like a "T-piece coupling" which could be the connection to the external fill point. Directly downstream of the PRV looks like a non-return valve (NRV).

It looks like Bailey have directly transferred their caravan water system to motorcaravans !!!

If my assumptions are correct, you could probably install the new T-piece and closing valve in the section of pipework above the water tank, as per the pic in post #20 (a more convenient location in my view).

I'd be interested to know how you fill the water tank and how the system operates if you have a permanently attached mains water supply attached, whilst on site.

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No it's just filled from the outside with a hose.
 
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PaulC70 said:
No it's just filled from the outside with a hose.
Click to expand...

That's interesting. You just wonder why Bailey installed a pressure reducing valve into the system. Most submersible pumps are only rated at 30psi (2 bar) or less.

My previous Hymer had a submersible pump but no fancy pressure reducing valve.

There are a few threads on here about the whale water filling system:

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

Bailey Motorhomes

www.motorhomefun.co.uk www.motorhomefun.co.uk
 
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From my experience with household plumbing in a former life, my feeling is that simply making sure all outlets are open (drain cocks and water tank valve open, taps open), should be enough. Water expands when it freezes, and if it is trapped, then the pressure it exerts is enormous. But if it has somewhere to expand into, then it is unlikely to cause a problem. My only caveat to that would be the water pump. I can see there might be water left inside the pump, depending on its design, but running the pump for a couple of seconds when all the water is drained should clear it. But then again, better safe than sorry. Compare the cost of a Floe system to the cost of repairing the water pipes I suppose it makes sense. Personally, because we use our MH throughout the winter, it seems an unnecessary extra bit of work. But I do like the ballon idea from Tom A above - very ingenious and simple. I shall use his idea when we next have a freezing spell.
 
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I think you’re just buying peace of mind! I suggest you stop to consider what you are trying to achieve, and how your proposed solution might achieve that.

I’d expect all those who go to extremes to remove all water will say that they’ve never had a problem as a result, partly to justify their efforts, but how do they know that they’d have had one otherwise? Most of those who do little more than drain their tanks down don’t suffer either! I do think it’s a good idea to clear the taps and filter as well, however.


I assume you are simply wanting to avoid frost damage and expensive repairs? If so, just do as I suggest: Turn the pump off and empty the fresh tank, empty your boiler (most important), open all outlets and remove the filter cover. The filter cover (if you have an external pump) is usually just before the pump inlet and is a common thing to suffer frost damage. It will crack if the water inside it freezes and then let air in when you use the pump afterwards. They are not expensive but it’s easy to protect them by taking them off. Any water left in the pipework will probably have space to expand to if it freezes but, if it did crack a joint, those parts are not expensive to replace (although they might be awkward to get at).

I have difficulty believing that blowing air through a system would be successful at removing all the water (although it would be enough to achieve what I suggest) and may introduce air containing other problems (oil?). As soon as air can escape one way, it’s not going to force it any other, so clearing the whole system may not possible. Much better to let gravity do it for you.

At the beginning of a season, you can flush the system through (with or without cleanser) to remove stale water and anything that might have developed in the meantime. Just remember to close all the drains and replace the filter cover before you start.

It’s good to consider theses things, but try to ponder on how you will use your motorhome more than what might go wrong. We buy them to enhance our lives rather than create ulcers.
 
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