Cold Air coming in new Autotrail

They're visible Vlad, the o/s has a solid cover & the n/s has a plastic frame with thin rubber flap, if it's the same as mine.
 
Vlad has an earlier model cab X244 it may be different
 
WOW !! Thanks for that.. The vents are on all models up to 2006 and on all of the 2007 .. Also on all the much later vans I have worked on..

Aint worked on any of the new vans yet but one thing for sure.
If they are not in some doors then there is certainly no reason to worry about blocking them off on the vehicles that do have them
 
Bond.. I have a 500, a 1kw, and a 2 kw setting on the outer ring of the electric heating control. Also there is an inner rotatable bit which is the thermostat, going from 1 to 9 if I remember correctly.. Also. if you set the blower fan on a LOW setting, e.g., 1 or 2, then the air has more time to heat up behind the fire.. Otherwise you are blowing it around before it is properly hot.. Hope that makes sense... Mitch..
PS. Anyone who doesn't have blown air heating can retrofit it dead easily. On one of our previous vans, I just ordered the fan unit, which screws, with 3 self tapping screws, into pre-drilled holes, after pushing out the circular round pre-punched piece on the back of the fire.
That bit only takes 5 minutes. Then you drill the holes for where you want the outlets and fit the vents.. The foil lined cardboard ducting hose just pushes onto the back of the vents.. secure them to the van and job done.. Hope this isn't stating the bleeding obvious to anyone, but it is serious option.. PSS. I gleaned all the measurements from looking at other vans.. It all cost £160 I think..
Mitch..
 
Bond we have a 2010 comanche & this winter we have stayed in the UK so I insulated all the heating pipes with this product, see picture. I found it in b&q half price as it was a clearance item, 3 rolls for a fiver.If you google the name you will find the manufacturer & then possibly another supplier. Take the ducting pipes out, wrap this around the pipes leaving approx 2 inches to allow the pipe to be refitted. Use strong/sticky tape of your choice (gaffa tape ) to hold the insulation to the fitting & the outlet. See 2nd picture. If you are a bit handy & willing to investigate the ' build' of your autotrail you will find that cupboard bottoms will come out to reveal bare pipes which can be insulated. Hope this helps.

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Regards cold air from front we had same problem and found it was coming from where the seat belt goes down into the roller I cut two pieces of water pipe insulation just bit wider than seat belt pushed into gap and hey presto hope this helps
 
Bond.. I have a 500, a 1kw, and a 2 kw setting on the outer ring of the electric heating control. Also there is an inner rotatable bit which is the thermostat, going from 1 to 9 if I remember correctly.. Also. if you set the blower fan on a LOW setting, e.g., 1 or 2, then the air has more time to heat up behind the fire.. Otherwise you are blowing it around before it is properly hot.. Hope that makes sense... Mitch..
PS. Anyone who doesn't have blown air heating can retrofit it dead easily. On one of our previous vans, I just ordered the fan unit, which screws, with 3 self tapping screws, into pre-drilled holes, after pushing out the circular round pre-punched piece on the back of the fire.
That bit only takes 5 minutes. Then you drill the holes for where you want the outlets and fit the vents.. The foil lined cardboard ducting hose just pushes onto the back of the vents.. secure them to the van and job done.. Hope this isn't stating the bleeding obvious to anyone, but it is serious option.. PSS. I gleaned all the measurements from looking at other vans.. It all cost £160 I think..
Mitch..
Mitch, when you say electric heating control are you talking about on the electric motor itself or the main controls above the door?
 
Take the seatbelt covers off, the ones from floor to ceiling. Then if you are underneath with a torch you will perhaps see a hole about two inches square where chassis body meets habitation. I filled mine with expanding foam. 2010 chieftain. Easy for mice to get in
 
Mines all digital, it has elec1 - elec2 (guessing that means 1kw & 2kw) & gas or mix. On mix boost it's like toast but sounds like Concorde taking off! What year's yours Mitch?

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Does the Autotrail have switchable vents anywhere?
Yes, i have an Autotrail apache, the diversion flap is behind the fire, accessed by a narrow cupboard door. The flap is controlled by a wire lever and operates a flap inside the duct which pretty much controls the amount of airflow to either front or rear of the van. I'll take a picture of the unit which is actually fitted to truma heaters that I've had in a number of caravans I've owned along with my Autotrail. It does make alot of difference when set correctly. I usually set the flow slightly in favour of the front of the van which is further away from the fire. This compensates for the temperature drop due to distance and pretty much balances out over the overall area. I hope I've explained that ok but if anyone needs any clarification I will try to oblige.
 
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I'm not sure if the Autotrail has this, anyone else heard or got info on this?
The airflow regulating lever is shown at 25 in diagrams and instructions on its purpose. As said this makes a huge difference in balancing heat throughout the van. Best when using Gas or Gas & Elec together. Using electric alone is a waste of time as airflow from vents is only luke warm by the time its got to the further extremities of the van.
Lance
 
In our new Autotrail Delaware (2015 Model) there is no actual Fire as shown above but we are suffering from the same cold problem at the front of the van. Shutting off the vents in the bedroom only causes the heating to over heat and stop working all together, there is nothing blocking anything. I will be looking at the suggestions on this thread though as I believe the commanche as per the thread starter is almost identical to ours apart from the extra length and twin axle.

Thanks
 
We have invested in two 60 watt tube heaters & placed them diagonally across the cab floor with a fan heater between the seats blowing warm air towards the lower half of the dash. This warms any cold air around the cab area & the dash/windscreen directs it back into the lounge area. We also have silver screens on the outside which drastically reduce the amount of coldness within the cab. With the internal pleated blinds closed we do not suffer from any condensation.

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Zzzzzac, if you also do as I have suggested with the ducting pipes (see thread above & pictures) it will reduce the temperature loss of the air coming out of the pipes.
 
I don't like to admit it but we use a plug in fan heater when on hookup. Keeps us lovely and warm!!!!

So do we, at least to warm the van up initially (y)
 
So do we, but in really cold weather, it has to be the gas blown air heating, as that heats the under bed garage and toilet/shower areas too.

Cheers,

Jock.
 
I have taken delivery of these and just now have one spare. If anyone wants to claim it? it will be available at £9 at Camperfest. I had to pay postage and buying three was cheapest.
CA_01281521025097-X2.jpg
 
I have taken delivery of these and just now have one spare. If anyone wants to claim it? it will be available at £9 at Camperfest. I had to pay postage and buying three was cheapest.
CA_01281521025097-X2.jpg
Blimey - that's expensive! You can get them from Fiat dealers for less than £4 (last year anyway). I've got a spare one needing a home as the Fiat dealer recommended it for stopping draughts but when he went to fit it (van was in for a service at the time) there was not enough room to do so because of the way the Alko chassis fitted onto the Fiat cab. So he used sealant instead and handed me the blanking plate for free. Anyone want it, send me a PM. :Smile:

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Fiat parts online £7.66 incl VAT plus postage. The other price goes back to 2010
I don't know how they came up with that tale as the Alko chassis rails bolt to the outside of the cab chassis extensions and are no where near those vents
 
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All I can say is that last year, the price quoted me at the desk by the Fiat Commercial dealer in Worcester was £3 something. Maybe worth giving them a ring .......
 
Another area to look at is the seal, or lack of it, on the roof lights.
Some technical reason to do with air circulation per so many cubic metres of space in a particular room of the motorhome means that the (British) manufacturers have to omit the seals in the roof lights. Ring up the technical help department at AutoTrail for the official answer, as I did, and you will be told that they can't do it, but what an owner does is up to the owner. Phone number is 01472 571000.
Anyway, I bought seals from Leisure Spares Ltd and fit them myself. Made a huge difference. www.leisurespares.co.uk
Hope this helps (y)
 
Then Mark (CLS) pointed out there was a diverter flap on the top of the fire under the 'false floor' in the wardrobe - problem instantly solved - we didn't have a clue that was there till then!

I'm just ploughing through this thread (when I'm supposed to updating one of my spreadsheets!) and I read this. I've just been out to look at my MH (Bessacarr) and looked for this flap but there doesn't seem to be one.

Jenny, can you describe exactly what it looks like and where it is please?

Keith Hart

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I'm just ploughing through this thread (when I'm supposed to updating one of my spreadsheets!) and I read this. I've just been out to look at my MH (Bessacarr) and looked for this flap but there doesn't seem to be one.

Jenny, can you describe exactly what it looks like and where it is please?

Keith Hart


Hi Keith

There is a picture on page 4 of the thread - posted by Wickolad. I think that is the flap you are asking about
 
Techno thanks for the link but it works out at £19.60 after adding postage.
 
Buy a heavy duty black plastic tray from a garden centre, use one of the vents as a template cut around it and glue over the opening with Sikaflex, why not :-) Cheap as chips !
 

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