Cob light strip

[Keene]

Cob light strip - (5m 12v) is there anyway I can use this without being plugged into mains power in my Moho? Thanks.

 

[Itsmcb]

WOW, Thank you so much for the detailed information. I did mention to my husband that it might be a tad bright when I ordered the cob. It is dimmable, therefore, I wasn’t concerned and have been looking for the appropriate switch to attach. I had intended to place the strip to create an ambient light, so basically that is why I made that choice. I was then going to alter the length as required and work out the difference and change the ampage plug. I am not over fond of the white LED lights. They look cold. I bought warm white and was hoping for a cosy glow. It is as simple as that. No thoughts of traversing the highways and byways with the cob on the exterior of the MoHo, but now you mention it …… lol. My hopes have been dashed for interior ambient lighting. We were caravaners before our first MoHo a year ago and the choice of luminaire was easy, one cosy table lamp did the trick. I do appreciate the time you have taken to reply to me.

There’s nothing to stop you having a cosy table lamp in your motorhome, anything you had in your caravan will still work.

 

[The Wino]

I don't know how old your MH is but on the subject of LEDs if you have any old fashioned tungsten or other filament lamps swapping the LEDs will save loads of battery life.

 

[autorouter]

Thanks. When I bought it I asked what I needed and was told 5Amp 12V DC which I bought.

Everyone calls the motorhome electrics voltage '12V', but that's only the 'nominal' voltage. In reality it varies quite a lot, and often goes up to to 14.5V when the leisure battery is being charged up. Devices that are supposed to work from a '12V' mains power brick are usually expecting 12V +/- 1/2 a volt, and may not like being powered at over 14V.

To get round this, you can use a 12V voltage stabiliser, like this:

8-40V to 12V 6A DC Voltage Stabilizer 72W Car Power Supply Regulator Waterproof

Feature:1:Waterproof, dust proof, shockproof, small volume, simple installation.2:Not isolation shape DC regulated power supply module, high stability of output.3:Wide voltage input, built-in over current, over voltage, over temperature, short circuit, and automatic protection functions.4:Great...

carlightbulb.com

It takes in any voltage from 8V to 40V, and puts out a steady 12V. It is capable of running your 60W LED strip.

You will need connectors for this. Probably the round barrel connectors - usually centre positive, outer negative. There are several sizes that look very similar. The hole can be 2.5mm or 2.1mm. I find the easiest way to be sure is to see if a 2.5mm drill will fit in the hole, obviously only try when it's switched off.

 

[The Wino]

A lot of helpful posts here including the safety warning from HarryML7. I would also add to that the message that even 12V systems badly implemented can and do cause fires and as such should be treated with caution.

As also explained, there are only 2 ways of getting the 13A mains sockets live in the motorhome. One is connection to an Electric Hook Up (EHU) or as you put it, plugged in. This delivers mains voltage (230V AC) into the motorhome and it will make the 13A sockets live. The other way is by using an 'inverter'. That takes 12V DC from your on-board battery and creates 230V AC. In some motorhomes this is then provided to the 13A sockets in the motorhome, but sometimes just has a single socket. The bigger the inverter the more current it draws from the battery, so a thicker cable is needed and the faster it will flatten the battery.

As you have found, there is no such thing as a 12V hairdrier that is effective. That's quite simply because a hair drier needs 1500W upwards to be any good. At 230V that is roughly 6.5 Amps being drawn, but at 12v its a massive 125 Amps. That will flatten most batteries in just a few minutes and the cable size has to be huge and unwieldy. Most 12V sockets are rated at only 180 - 200W which is roughly 15A at 12V. It means therefore that any inverter that plugs into a 12V socket can only run low power equipment such as laptop chargers, possibly small TV's etc. Anything like toasters, kettles, hair driers, electric heaters etc need much bigger inverters and much bigger batteries and the invertors is wired directly to the battery bank using very thick cables.

Now your LED light (Chip On Board LED type) actually needs a 12V DC supply at 5A meaning it's 60Watts. (5x12=60) so that could run directly off the 12V socket with the correct lead, but that has to be wired the correct way round as LED's only work if the voltage is connected the right way round. That's because the D in LED stands for Diode. A diode only passes current in one direction a bit like a one way valve in a water supply. It would be much more efficient to connect it that way as both the inverter and the power supply you bought for the light use power to convert first from 12v DC to 230V AC, and then from 230V AC back to 12V DC to feed the light. No conversion is free in physics so you are wasting power converting it twice. So while the light itself might only be drawing 5A as above, the invertor is likely to draw 7 or 8 amps meaning the batty will flatten quicker. If you have a single lead acid leisure battery, that's likely to be about 90 Amp Hour., Ah ha, I hear you say, that means I can run it for 10 hours or so..... Not true. You might get half that before destroying the battery.

It does bring me back to why on earth you would need such a powerful LED light in a motorhome. I do stage lighting as a hobby and can confirm that a 60W COB LED produces as much light as a 424W traditional tungsten lamp! (usually equated with a 500W fresnel or PARCAN luminaire given the losses in the optics). I have lit many whole shows on half a dozen such units! But one of those is more than four 100W light bulbs.... in a motorhome? Or is this to mount outside the van while travelling? If it is, I regret to tell you it would be illegal and you sooner or later would be stopped.

Hopefully this is of some assistance, but I suspect the first question you need to answer for yourself is the last I pose being "Why?"

I think the op was told a 5w power supply would work rather than the led strip ran at 5w. It could easily be a lot less but the person selling the power supply thought get 5w and it's going to easily cope. On the voltage I think id try running them straight of the MH 12 v supply it won't be exactly 12 v but I don't think there's voltage stabilisers on any of the other led lights in a motorhome so why would the led strip need one?

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[meanders]

I think the op was told a 5w power supply would work rather than the led strip ran at 5w.

The OP stated in post #14 "I bought a 12v 5amp power supply adaptor charger". That's 60W not 5W unless Ohm's Law has been superseded while I have been asleep.

Your basic point that it was likely to be the maximum draw assuming the seller understood the requirement, but we had little else to go on.

 

[The Wino]

The OP stated in post #14 "I bought a 12v 5amp power supply adaptor charger". That's 60W not 5W unless Ohm's Law has been superseded while I have been asleep.

Your basic point that it was likely to be the maximum draw assuming the seller understood the requirement, but we had little else to go on.

Sorry yes I meant 5amp but as you say a 60w led strip is pretty unlikely as it would also be to recommend a power supply equal to the maximum required.

 

[autorouter]

As others have said, 60W of LED is bright. Your idea of cutting it down is reasonable, think of it as 12W per metre. Individual LEDs usually take about 3V to 4V, so the cut points will be about every 3 or 4 LEDs if it's working on 12V. Often the cut points are marked with a small scissor symbol.

You can probably get clip-on connectors to attach the pos and neg wires, but I prefer to solder the wires onto the pcb track pad. Distributed around, the LED strip should be fine for general lighting and under cupboard lighting.

 

[Pausim]

I had to Google COB lights to find out what made them different from ordinary LED/SMD lights. Every day is a school day. If others are interested in the difference there are many explanations on the web, this is just one of them.

COB vs SMD LED Strips Explained

PRO Blog - All in one package is the most powerful, flexible Prestashop blog module

arc-led.co.uk

 

[Keene]

This was the reply I got from the supplier when I enquired about the plug I would need. - No plug is supplied with this item as the light is normally hardwired to a 12v system. The size of fuse depends on how many metre of strip light do you use. Current draw per metre is 12W that means if you use all 5 metre the draw will be 60W (5 amps) and the required fuse is 7 - 10 amps. You should also take into consideration the current rating of the smallest cable in the circuit and fuse should be somewhere in between your cable rating and the light draw.

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[starquake]

WOW, Thank you so much for the detailed information. I did mention to my husband that it might be a tad bright when I ordered the cob. It is dimmable, therefore, I wasn’t concerned and have been looking for the appropriate switch to attach. I had intended to place the strip to create an ambient light, so basically that is why I made that choice. I was then going to alter the length as required and work out the difference and change the ampage plug. I am not over fond of the white LED lights. They look cold. I bought warm white and was hoping for a cosy glow. It is as simple as that. No thoughts of traversing the highways and byways with the cob on the exterior of the MoHo, but now you mention it …… lol. My hopes have been dashed for interior ambient lighting. We were caravaners before our first MoHo a year ago and the choice of luminaire was easy, one cosy table lamp did the trick. I do appreciate the time you have taken to reply to me.

You may be better buying a seperate controller for your LED strip and a regulated 12v supply (motorhome supplies although 12V are actually 12.6V when full on battery, and 13.X when charging (higher on some). Still 12V to 12V, but if you over volt LED strip of any case it'll burn out ... they are designed for a regulated 12V supply, which a motorhome socket is NOT!

(but you can fix this with a DC converter board, 12V to 12V regulated).

Bear in mind LED strips with controllers are effectively cheap as chips these days (even full RGB ones are ~ 10-15 quid for 5 meters). I would perfronally if putting in a van not use white ones, it's nicer being able to use multiple colours. (you can get them with the white LED too, called RGBWW strip, so still has cool white, but also can do blue, red, organge, in fact any colour you want by blending). Basically you can have the van look like a posh plane ambience if you want! We have RGB single colour strip at moment in the van using a 12V stirp with 12V controller, but I have noted the previous owner who installed it, only used a 2A capable controller so it's a max of 24W on our strip today, but it's also single adressible (ie it cannot do multiple colous over the length). I am now planning an upgrade and will fit a DC-DC to the van followed controller I'll probbaly build myself out of an ESP32 chip and some soldering (running the WLED controller software) and a new RGB individually adressible strip. WLED is a magic word in the LED world, as it is wifi controlled lighting, like phillips hue, but fully open sourced. You van will need a mifi device to use such a thing though. The chip is about £5 and there are many guides to doing this online if you search (or you can buy premade controllers for about 15-25 quid on amazon running it). Why use a homemade contorller? I can use at 4Amps instead of the 2 amp the traditional controller allows as a peak allowing a significantly brigter ambience if I want it (will only use when needed). 4A on a leisure batttery will use half the battery in 10 hours!

 

[starquake]

I had to Google COB lights to find out what made them different from ordinary LED/SMD lights. Every day is a school day. If others are interested in the difference there are many explanations on the web, this is just one of them.

COB vs SMD LED Strips Explained

PRO Blog - All in one package is the most powerful, flexible Prestashop blog module

arc-led.co.uk

Oh theres so many things these days in the LED strip SMD world. There are individually adressible, adressible in groups of 3, groups of 5 and finally as an entire strip. Then there are the strips that have 2 LED's per segment with 2 LED above/below each other using same colour for each. These are particularly bright and typically 24v not 12v (as they are in effect 2 12V stips on a single 24V strip).

It's probably worth people reading about WLED and the strip types it supports... theres also a vast difference in packaging...
The ones that "look" amazing do not usually come with amazing adressibility. I was coveting some neon looking LED (basically looks/feels like old school neon) and then found it's single colour addressible only if its in RGB typically. You can get also some similar effects to COB by using diffusers.

Worth looking at BTF lighting on amazon or aliexpress for all the strips avaialble, as they have some good pictures showing the differences. (think thats the name). Once you know the chip type on the strip you like, then look for the same chip from "other" suppliers as it's often cheaper per metre and from the same factory potentially. There are many "lighting strip" specific suppliers on amazon and aliexpress outside the "bigger" names.

Key thing is though this is extreemely cheap nowadays, 5 metres length (cuttable) of strip is $10-15 even with a full "outdoor" coating on it typically. Worth noting the 2815 chip series however for 12V van use (when individually adressible) uses a TON less power, and is only $2 more per 5 meters. Think it's half the power use, as the COB strip mentioned needing 60W is on the higher end, I'm building a project with 300 individual LED elements using 90W peak theretically, but the reality is I'll be limiting that to 50W peak on the controller (as building your own controller you can limit curent easily).

For original poster worth noting having a controller you can limit the brightness on isn't just "useful" it will prevent fires. Running your LED strip at capacity max brightness it will be extremely hot extremely quickly I would wager, and I don't jsut meant the LED's, I also mean the strip itself and it's connectors. Most connectors are actually only limited to 3A continous (ie, 36W, ie, less than the 60W your strip wants), and you need to inject the power into the beginning, middle, and end of the stirp to go above 3A.... ie, you are supposed to ideally solder a joint and wire for power at each location (beginning, middle, end) to allow the "per connection" current draw to be shared. Some strip already has that prewired (expensive strip), most does not, and expects to be used by people able to solder a wire or two across the strip to inject power other end.. If you just power through a "single" JST connector above 3A I would expect some melting over time potentially.

 

[pappajohn]

Fighting a loosing battle here.
Ignore all 3 pin sockets, they are all 230v.
You need a fag lighter socket in the van.
Then you need a usb plug to fit the cog socket.
Plug the USB plug on the light strip into the USB socket.
If it doesn't have a USB plug you can't connect it to 12v.

 

[starquake]

Fighting a loosing battle here.
Ignore all 3 pin sockets, they are all 230v.
You need a fag lighter socket in the van.
Then you need a usb plug to fit the cog socket.
Plug the USB plug on the light strip into the USB socket.
If it doesn't have a USB plug you can't connect it to 12v.

Bit untrue here, only 5V LED strips run on USB. If you were not aware there are 12V and 24V LED strips too, and these most certainally will not light up on a USB plug.

I don't personally run any strips at 5V in the motorhome, givne the 60W lighting the original poster has mentioned that woudl require double the thickness of cable and double the wiring injection points for full brightness. Theres also I would say a substantial fire risk element to running 60W of 5V strip (it's a lot more dangerous as you need double the current, so a lot thicker wire to avoid this).

Nothing wrong with 5V strip, but it is rather underpowered even for general van lighting in my opinion with a peak of 10W when USB powered. I can't even light half a 5 metre strip with a 5v supply. (it's fine if you talking 2m lengths).

 

[pappajohn]

Fighting a loosing battle here.
Ignore all 3 pin sockets, they are all 230v.
You need a fag lighter socket in the van.
Then you need a usb plug to fit the cog socket.
Plug the USB plug on the light strip into the USB socket.
If it doesn't have a USB plug you can't connect it to 12v.

Ignore.....just read the later replies.
It's obviously not 5v USB.
The thread is very confusing due to wrong spec and incorrect info etc.

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[Keene]

I don't know how old your MH is but on the subject of LEDs if you have any old fashioned tungsten or other filament lamps swapping the LEDs will save loads of battery life.

Thanks, It is a 2003 Burstner Harmony 625t with 38,000 on the clock. The lighting was already modified when we got it a year ago. It is in immaculate condition. The LED's are cold white, which I hate with a vengeance. I like warm lighting. The white LED's put me in mind of Spain about 50 years ago when the lighting made everything look dingey. I got a light with USB charger and motion sensor for during the night. I also need to change the carpets as they are very dark grey.

 

[starquake]

Thanks, It is a 2003 Burstner Harmony 625t with 38,000 on the clock. The lighting was already modified when we got it a year ago. It is in immaculate condition. The LED's are cold white, which I hate with a vengeance. I like warm lighting. The white LED's put me in mind of Spain about 50 years ago when the lighting made everything look dingey. I got a light with USB charger and motion sensor for during the night. I also need to change the carpets as they are very dark grey.

Yeah our default LED (came with van) are also cold white, and far too bright, which is why the previous owner fitted the 2A rated 12V RBG strip (which can produce any white or any colour) comfortably.

The one our previous owner installed is similar to https://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof...aurant-Restaurants/dp/B07N67B9KB?tag=mhf04-21 -> as said I plan to replace with a individually adressible, less power use than 5050 LED (so brighter for less power in effect). The current strip DOES use the full 2A when fully illuminated.

The above -> includes the strip, a remote, and the previous owner skipped the 12V regulation on it. Honesltly LED lighting isn't expensive, you do just need some soldering skills to ideally run a fresh cable (and fuse) back to the consumer unit for them. If you talking low current (2A) stuff you may be able to spur off some existing 12V.

Don't forget you need a controller + remote (and maybe a switch) though if buying strip not in a kit like the above which includes a controller + kit (RGB strip will not light up without a controlelr!).

 

[Keene]

Fighting a loosing battle here.
Ignore all 3 pin sockets, they are all 230v.
You need a fag lighter socket in the van.
Then you need a usb plug to fit the cog socket.
Plug the USB plug on the light strip into the USB socket.
If it doesn't have a USB plug you can't connect it to 12v.

Yeah our default LED (came with van) are also cold white, and far too bright, which is why the previous owner fitted the 2A rated 12V RBG strip (which can produce any white or any colour) comfortably.

The one our previous owner installed is similar to https://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof...aurant-Restaurants/dp/B07N67B9KB?tag=mhf04-21 -> as said I plan to replace with a individually adressible, less power use than 5050 LED (so brighter for less power in effect). The current strip DOES use the full 2A when fully illuminated.

The above -> includes the strip, a remote, and the previous owner skipped the 12V regulation on it. Honesltly LED lighting isn't expensive, you do just need some soldering skills to ideally run a fresh cable (and fuse) back to the consumer unit for them. If you talking low current (2A) stuff you may be able to spur off some existing 12V.

Don't forget you need a controller + remote (and maybe a switch) though if buying strip not in a kit like the above which includes a controller + kit (RGB strip will not light up without a controlelr!).

I am now at the extremely confused state. The kit in the link looks good. I didn't buy one and opted just for strip to unplug when not in use, although I was going to attach a dimmer switch which the cob can take. Soldering isn't a problem, I can do that. It is what goes where with what is becoming more blurred by the minute........ Thanks for your illuminating reply. I may have to revert to candle power .....

 

[starquake]

I am now at the extremely confused state. The kit in the link looks good. I didn't buy one and opted just for strip to unplug when not in use, although I was going to attach a dimmer switch which the cob can take. Soldering isn't a problem, I can do that. It is what goes where with what is becoming more blurred by the minute........ Thanks for your illuminating reply. I may have to revert to candle power .....

If you spending money on a dimmer you probbaly better getting a controller that does full RGB control as they are similarly priced. I only started learning this LED stuff about a week ago and I have to admit it is complex with so many chinese controllers available.

Apologies for making your life a bit harder, but it's well worth research on if you want a simple chinese controller with rbg remote, something that connects to wifi, something with music reactivity, or just a dimmer. Mad thing is the dimmer controller from the same people that do the controller setup actually costs more (as lowering current is more complex than telling each individual LED to dim with a microcontroller).

The strip is almost the easy bit sorry! As you know if you just conenct 12V on your strip it'll give you full 60W and thats likely as meaders said, like you having full on floodlights in your van (given the lumens will be like a halogen 500w light). Thats why I'm sadly suggesting you may have got the wrong strip, and may want actually RGBWW strip (ie, rbg with 2 white leds for warm and cool) and a controller able to control it -> as if you going to all the effort to put a 12V supply in plus dimmer it's likely not much more to do a better job (as I've now found myself with the less than ideal 2A/24W strip in my van) and at same time get additional features.

The guy that owned our van before, left the old (horrid) white lighting in place and switches, and just fitted the remote (for the strip there now) above the power switch, thats what I'd reccomend anyone doing this does until they certain they got it right.

remember with a good controller you can set the default turn on colour and brightness according to your needs (or have it remember last setting).

If you want easy, get a controller + strip kit as I linked from amazon (or similar -> there are hundreds on amazon) , and just wire in with a fuse. That is the simplest option, but won't be the brightest as usually the controller + strip 12V kits have a 2A or 4A limit). That requires less thought than a dimmer which would need to suit your strip (something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/JOYLIT-Dimmer-Dimming-Controller-Lights/dp/B074D82WVX?tag=mhf04-21) is a dimmer controller, which costs more than a new strip + controller but would allow you to use your strip you already have but requires some wire/soldering. Neesd the strip to confirm it's compatible with PWM dimming (but almost all are so this is a fair topic). You'll obviously want a nicer lightswitch probably too. (you can see how lightswitch, wiring, dimmer module all come to poentially more than new strip with controller now!). Remember you need either a fuse at board or an inline fuse if you spurring off too as the manufacturer has already told you.

Cutting/rejoining strip for corners is also a subject you may want to investigate, most strip can be cut either every LED, every 3 or every 5 emitters (depends on teh chip to where the cuts are) -> it's ALWAYS marked on the strip. TO join to a new strip you just extend the 2, 3, or 4 wires (LED doing single colour is just power, so 2 wire, for RGB entire strip it's often 4 wires, for individual RGB it's often 3) between the old strip and new strip. You can get extension wiring to solder to (2, 3,4 pin that isn't too untidy) from amazon or aliexpress (or just use 3 strings of normal 12V car wiring at ~ 18AWG). If you need 90 degree bends, you can also get clip on bends, but these look a little less tidy and wouldn't work in our van as to cover ceiling we need 3 strands, one for each side, and one for uplights by the cab). Doing a tidy job without visable strip (and hidden wire) is a lot harder. I suspect your strip as single colour can be cut every single LED, but this isn't always case.

 

[Keene]

If you spending money on a dimmer you probbaly better getting a controller that does full RGB control as they are similarly priced. I only started learning this LED stuff about a week ago and I have to admit it is complex with so many chinese controllers available.

Apologies for making your life a bit harder, but it's well worth research on if you want a simple chinese controller with rbg remote, something that connects to wifi, something with music reactivity, or just a dimmer. Mad thing is the dimmer controller from the same people that do the controller setup actually costs more (as lowering current is more complex than telling each individual LED to dim with a microcontroller).

The strip is almost the easy bit sorry! As you know if you just conenct 12V on your strip it'll give you full 60W and thats likely as meaders said, like you having full on floodlights in your van (given the lumens will be like a halogen 500w light). Thats why I'm sadly suggesting you may have got the wrong strip, and may want actually RGBWW strip (ie, rbg with 2 white leds for warm and cool) and a controller able to control it -> as if you going to all the effort to put a 12V supply in plus dimmer it's likely not much more to do a better job (as I've now found myself with the less than ideal 2A/24W strip in my van) and at same time get additional features.

The guy that owned our van before, left the old (horrid) white lighting in place and switches, and just fitted the remote (for the strip there now) above the power switch, thats what I'd reccomend anyone doing this does until they certain they got it right.

remember with a good controller you can set the default turn on colour and brightness according to your needs (or have it remember last setting).

If you want easy, get a controller + strip kit as I linked from amazon (or similar -> there are hundreds on amazon) , and just wire in with a fuse. That is the simplest option, but won't be the brightest as usually the controller + strip 12V kits have a 2A or 4A limit). That requires less thought than a dimmer which would need to suit your strip (something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/JOYLIT-Dimmer-Dimming-Controller-Lights/dp/B074D82WVX?tag=mhf04-21) is a dimmer controller, which costs more than a new strip + controller but would allow you to use your strip you already have but requires some wire/soldering. Neesd the strip to confirm it's compatible with PWM dimming (but almost all are so this is a fair topic). You'll obviously want a nicer lightswitch probably too. (you can see how lightswitch, wiring, dimmer module all come to poentially more than new strip with controller now!). Remember you need either a fuse at board or an inline fuse if you spurring off too as the manufacturer has already told you.

Cutting/rejoining strip for corners is also a subject you may want to investigate, most strip can be cut either every LED, every 3 or every 5 emitters (depends on teh chip to where the cuts are) -> it's ALWAYS marked on the strip. TO join to a new strip you just extend the 2, 3, or 4 wires (LED doing single colour is just power, so 2 wire, for RGB entire strip it's often 4 wires, for individual RGB it's often 3) between the old strip and new strip. You can get extension wiring to solder to (2, 3,4 pin that isn't too untidy) from amazon or aliexpress (or just use 3 strings of normal 12V car wiring at ~ 18AWG). If you need 90 degree bends, you can also get clip on bends, but these look a little less tidy and wouldn't work in our van as to cover ceiling we need 3 strands, one for each side, and one for uplights by the cab). Doing a tidy job without visable strip (and hidden wire) is a lot harder. I suspect your strip as single colour can be cut every single LED, but this isn't always case.

Please don't apologise, all replies are most welcome. The COB has less places to cut then LED strips but you don't see individual lights, a nicer complete light. I did a fair bit of research before deciding to buy what I did, due the many different options relating to power etc. I thought I would go a simpler route!!! The one I chose seemed simple, it was waterproof, dimmable and that was it. Once I recessed it, I was going to measure the length I had used and ampage and get the appropriate size converter plug. I need to take a step away from it now, then comeback and try and absorb the advice given to make sure I don't blow the bloomin' MoHo up!!!! LOL Thanks again for your advice.

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[starquake]

Please don't apologise, all replies are most welcome. The COB has less places to cut then LED strips but you don't see individual lights, a nicer complete light. I did a fair bit of research before deciding to buy what I did, due the many different options relating to power etc. I thought I would go a simpler route!!! The one I chose seemed simple, it was waterproof, dimmable and that was it. Once I recessed it, I was going to measure the length I had used and ampage and get the appropriate size converter plug. I need to take a step away from it now, then comeback and try and absorb the advice given to make sure I don't blow the bloomin' MoHo up!!!! LOL Thanks again for your advice.

Yeah, I get that, and the not seeing individual LED thing can be fixed trivially with a LED strip diffuser (if you were not aware of term), but you can buy varietys similar to COB that also don't need them. In the van we found you cannot see individual LED when bounced off white ceiling on our van at least -> the white ceiling of a motorhome in our case acts as a suitable diffuser to not have light hot spots. Worth noting if you using strip facing directly down under cupboard non-COB will likely need a diffuser if not ceiling bouncing.

The key thing if you doing "funky" coloured lighting is more the density of LED as the higher the density the less likely you are to see indivudual LED's making up the colours in theory. (lower power per LED but more of them in effect!), also leading to less heat.
It's worth going to a lighting store to see all the options before buying from somewhere "cheaper" as LED strip is all made in same factories in effect and most has a 50k hour warranty anyhow (even from aliexpress) (well from the reputable stores at least).

COB is a good choice though, we actually have some in our kitchen under counter lighting, which is fed to a 240-12v converter plus in-line dimmer under the cabinets. Mad thing is I paid £300 for it, when I realise now, it's about £30 of components at most.

 

[autorouter]

Sorry if you already know this, but whether light is 'warm' or 'cold' depends on the 'colour temperature'. But it's the opposite of what you might think. The lower temperatures (2700K to 3000K) are 'warmer' than the higher temperatures (4000K or even up to 6500K). Think red hot, orange hot and white hot. Red/orange is considered 'warmer' than white.

Also, dimming an incandescent light bulb gives it a 'warmer' colour as its filament temperature goes lower. However dimming an LED doesn't change its colour temperature, it keeps the same warmth or coldness.

Colour Temperatures Explained

www.simplyled.co.uk

 

[starquake]

Sorry if you already know this, but whether light is 'warm' or 'cold' depends on the 'colour temperature'. But it's the opposite of what you might think. The lower temperatures (2700K to 3000K) are 'warmer' than the higher temperatures (4000K or even up to 6500K). Think red hot, orange hot and white hot. Red/orange is considered 'warmer' than white.

Colour Temperatures Explained

www.simplyled.co.uk

Indeed, it's why I prefer RGBWW as a static "warm" isn't always what we want, we often want a mix between the cold and the warm in reality, means you get best of both. That is personal preference though!

At home in living room we use the hue dual white LED bulbs able to do any variety of white (warm , cold , or mix). We only at home use RGB in certain bulbs.

 

[Phill D]

I need to take a step away from it now, and try and absorb the advice given

I am not surprised

It has got more than a bit complicated

 

[Keene]

Yeah, I get that, and the not seeing individual LED thing can be fixed trivially with a LED strip diffuser (if you were not aware of term), but you can buy varietys similar to COB that also don't need them. In the van we found you cannot see individual LED when bounced off white ceiling on our van at least -> the white ceiling of a motorhome in our case acts as a suitable diffuser to not have light hot spots. Worth noting if you using strip facing directly down under cupboard non-COB will likely need a diffuser if not ceiling bouncing.

The key thing if you doing "funky" coloured lighting is more the density of LED as the higher the density the less likely you are to see indivudual LED's making up the colours in theory. (lower power per LED but more of them in effect!), also leading to less heat.
It's worth going to a lighting store to see all the options before buying from somewhere "cheaper" as LED strip is all made in same factories in effect and most has a 50k hour warranty anyhow (even from aliexpress) (well from the reputable stores at least).

COB is a good choice though, we actually have some in our kitchen under counter lighting, which is fed to a 240-12v converter plus in-line dimmer under the cabinets. Mad thing is I paid £300 for it, when I realise now, it's about £30 of components at most.

Geez, that's the kind of thing I seem to be good at, paying over the odds just to find out differently later. Thanks.

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[starquake]

Geez, that's the kind of thing I seem to be good at, paying over the odds just to find out differently later. Thanks.

Yeah,

Here is $22 USD of stuff I've got for a van project:

This one shows the input 12V on the DC barrel (5521) connector, connected to a controller from aliexpress $10 to a strip of 2811 non white LED strip (also $10). No tools required to connect DC cables to controller or controller to LED, it's literally a jaws action like in modern light fittings. Still needs fuse. I need to add a (wifi) remote to it for control, but can use iphone (or the button on the controller ) for on off now. Can be set to any colour and has loads of animations too, ie so I can have flikering fireplace type effect on the ceiling.

I would link the store page on aliexpress for the controller, but as ever, they've sold out given amazon is retailing the exact same controller for about £40, which more than likely is someone who brought all the chinese stock, imported it, and is now selling.

You can buy similar controllers all over - if you after a WLED (wifi open source thing) controller https://shop.allnetchina.cn/collections/quinled/ -> is a good place to potentially go, or same via aliexpress. These are US designed, but chinese manufactured open source controllers, which you can flash yourself with code.

You probbaly just want a dimmer but I wanted to show you how easy it is, just add fuse + holder and a 12v cable to the bottom of the controller here via a length of wire. This controller supports up to 10A 12V, split across effectively 2 connectors, so 5A, or about 60W per connector, but does require you to be using the 3 pin addressible strip, not 2 pin. This effectively supports any RBG, RBGWW strip out there near enough, and literally is a 5 min job to setup.

Should add this is also prior to any diffuser being fit so you can see the individual LED's clearly when not reflecting obviously... but this is fully water sealed except for the 3 ping JST connector and the individual wires from the LED which I need to fix with some waterproof electrical tape.

I was planning to use similar controller for the back of the TV project (backlights for a hellova lot less than Phillips want) but I now need to wait on some Qunled controllers coming, as it's far easier than getting the compoents individually to solder myself to a ESP chip.

 

[starquake]

Should add it's running on floor at near full brightness in middle of day to check for hotspots with a heat gun, I didn't take this just for you, more to make sure the power supply and controller don't have anything concerning after a few hours running. The LEDS are now warm, and are set for a 5A current at moment (so peak of 60W), so this is about as high as I want to push it, as the strip itself is a toasty 30 degress set at this power level.

 

[Keene]

Yeah,

Here is $22 USD of stuff I've got for a van project:
View attachment 898300

This one shows the input 12V on the DC barrel (5521) connector, connected to a controller from aliexpress $10 to a strip of 2811 non white LED strip (also $10). No tools required to connect DC cables to controller or controller to LED, it's literally a jaws action like in modern light fittings. Still needs fuse. I need to add a (wifi) remote to it for control, but can use iphone (or the button on the controller ) for on off now. Can be set to any colour and has loads of animations too, ie so I can have flikering fireplace type effect on the ceiling.

I would link the store page on aliexpress for the controller, but as ever, they've sold out given amazon is retailing the exact same controller for about £40, which more than likely is someone who brought all the chinese stock, imported it, and is now selling.

You can buy similar controllers all over - if you after a WLED (wifi open source thing) controller https://shop.allnetchina.cn/collections/quinled/ -> is a good place to potentially go, or same via aliexpress. These are US designed, but chinese manufactured open source controllers, which you can flash yourself with code.

You probbaly just want a dimmer but I wanted to show you how easy it is, just add fuse + holder and a 12v cable to the bottom of the controller here via a length of wire. This controller supports up to 10A 12V, split across effectively 2 connectors, so 5A, or about 60W per connector, but does require you to be using the 3 pin addressible strip, not 2 pin. This effectively supports any RBG, RBGWW strip out there near enough, and literally is a 5 min job to setup.

Should add this is also prior to any diffuser being fit so you can see the individual LED's clearly when not reflecting obviously... but this is fully water sealed except for the 3 ping JST connector and the individual wires from the LED which I need to fix with some waterproof electrical tape.

I was planning to use similar controller for the back of the TV project (backlights for a hellova lot less than Phillips want) but I now need to wait on some Qunled controllers coming, as it's far easier than getting the compoents individually to solder myself to a ESP chip.

WOW thanks for that. I have screen saved to peruse at my leisure... The cob I bought is also fully waterproof.

Yeah,

Here is $22 USD of stuff I've got for a van project:
View attachment 898300

This one shows the input 12V on the DC barrel (5521) connector, connected to a controller from aliexpress $10 to a strip of 2811 non white LED strip (also $10). No tools required to connect DC cables to controller or controller to LED, it's literally a jaws action like in modern light fittings. Still needs fuse. I need to add a (wifi) remote to it for control, but can use iphone (or the button on the controller ) for on off now. Can be set to any colour and has loads of animations too, ie so I can have flikering fireplace type effect on the ceiling.

I would link the store page on aliexpress for the controller, but as ever, they've sold out given amazon is retailing the exact same controller for about £40, which more than likely is someone who brought all the chinese stock, imported it, and is now selling.

You can buy similar controllers all over - if you after a WLED (wifi open source thing) controller https://shop.allnetchina.cn/collections/quinled/ -> is a good place to potentially go, or same via aliexpress. These are US designed, but chinese manufactured open source controllers, which you can flash yourself with code.

You probbaly just want a dimmer but I wanted to show you how easy it is, just add fuse + holder and a 12v cable to the bottom of the controller here via a length of wire. This controller supports up to 10A 12V, split across effectively 2 connectors, so 5A, or about 60W per connector, but does require you to be using the 3 pin addressible strip, not 2 pin. This effectively supports any RBG, RBGWW strip out there near enough, and literally is a 5 min job to setup.

Should add this is also prior to any diffuser being fit so you can see the individual LED's clearly when not reflecting obviously... but this is fully water sealed except for the 3 ping JST connector and the individual wires from the LED which I need to fix with some waterproof electrical tape.

I was planning to use similar controller for the back of the TV project (backlights for a hellova lot less than Phillips want) but I now need to wait on some Qunled controllers coming, as it's far easier than getting the compoents individually to solder myself to a ESP chip.

WOW, thanks for that. I have screen saved for perusal at my leisure..... This is the reel I bought, which has caused me 'pain'. The power supply I was advised to get.

 

[starquake]

Yeah, you don't need the power supply (as that is for a 240v system not 12v as in van when not on mains) except to test the strip before install (I have a similar 12V supply you see in the picture connected to the barrel connector instead of the 12V in terminal connections). You could obviously use it when on mains (but then won't work in van unless you have an inverter), but you'd want to ideally add a fuse holder between the pings on the connector and the strip in case of short circuit, but I'd actually warn you those terminal connections (I have a few) get quite "warm" at 5 amp (the DC5521 female to bare wire on end of your supply you purchased. Personally I wouldn't run those above 3A (the wire ones as the connector isn't really suited to high power draw, and if you google around LED forums you'll see many have melted when placed in over 3A continuous load). You need (depending on strips tolerance) as remember vans batteries run from 11.5V to 14V (depend on solar/charger in place etc) a DC to DC regulator circuit ideally with a fuse. (example product https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/sh...s/mean-well-50-watt-12v-dc-voltage-regulator/) -> theres probably one on aliexpress cheaper given meanwell is sold there (and likely you can get smaller too, but if your peak draw is 5A, you can't really go lower than 50W). Then you need a PWM dimmer as previously linked assuming the COB strip you using requires PWM dimming. Why I say this is running in a van on 12V with solar on with a 14V base supply may burn out your strip potentially if you turn on in "daytime". That said, I know a lot of folk in motorhomefun (including some vechile converters) do not use a LED driver regulating the 12V so it's always 12V dead on -> it's a personal choice I would say. In my particular case, I already have 5A of regulated 12V supply where I need it for the project this weekend. The above would be my method of doing it "safely" .... others may have other ideas. (ie, 12V supply (with fuse at 5A) to regulator (to PWM controller) to fuse to strip would be my personal way of doing it). 12V -> fuseholder -> regulator -> pwm controller -> fuse (5a) to strip on the hot side.
If you ignore the regulator, just add PWM controller for diming and fuse that to the strip.

Thing you may want to peruse of interest:

FCOB LED Strip

Full Series Digital LED Strip Light. WS2811 WS2812B WS2813 WS2815 SK6812 RGB RGBW, BTF-LIGHTING is a top quality LED lights wholesaler. Deliver high performance hence low power consumption led strips. We support custom order as well.

www.btf-lighting.com

(BTF are a major brand that sell on aliexpress and amazon (aliexpress is a lot cheaper but takes 7 day delivery typically). There are cheaper, but BTF's store is a good example of all thats available and they have controllers of all sorts. Hate to tell you could get full RBGWW addressible COB strip for close to amazon price, and they'll sell you a controller and remote for any colour for the wall of the van too (ie, not needing wifi/google/alexa like mine does). BTF also sell a lot of plug and play controllers for LED strips of various types, dimming, RGB control, the lot, and for quite cheap.

I mentioned Quinled and linked the store (google it) as they are a good supplier of WLED controllers which include a fuse for the LED strip on the board, but WLED does require you to either get a WLED remote (some available) and configure it to the board, or use wifi/alexa once configured to control the lights. Theres also a "phone" app ... it's not for all, but as said, it allows you to custommise litereally each of the 300 leds on a strip to your own brightness and colour levels as desired (it works by telling each chip using the third pin how bright and which colour to shine unlike the PWM method which just lowers the amount of supply they get to dim in laymans terms). WLED would be quite useful once programmed to build a "virtual" fireplace as one example of it's use, or do a Christmas display for a house with thousands of lights. BTF have a lot of "simpler" contorllers and dimmers in their store so the strip is not at "eye watering" levels all the time.

 

[starquake]

Should add https://www.btf-lighting.com/produc...ws2811-sk6812-fcob-5050-rgb-rgbw-cct-music-bt seems to from the text at bottom support both SPI addressible LED strip & cruicially dimmable via PWM type single colour strip, and uses bluetooth or a remote control. May not be a bad option, I've not used it myself, but it's likely a better option than the simple PWM one I linked before as it'll allow use of remotes and other things so you don't need to wire a lightswitch and can use wireless instead.

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[Keene]

Should add https://www.btf-lighting.com/produc...ws2811-sk6812-fcob-5050-rgb-rgbw-cct-music-bt seems to from the text at bottom support both SPI addressible LED strip & cruicially dimmable via PWM type single colour strip, and uses bluetooth or a remote control. May not be a bad option, I've not used it myself, but it's likely a better option than the simple PWM one I linked before as it'll allow use of remotes and other things so you don't need to wire a lightswitch and can use wireless instead.

I did see the RBGWW strips, but as I just wanted warm white I didn't get it. I opted for the COB as it gives me the continuous light without seeing the individual segments. BUT!!!!! I doubt I will fit it, unless I get some hands on help. I'll do a bit more homework to see exactly what is fitted in my MoHo. Don't know if there is an inverter or not. I'm sure there are other members will also appreciate your input and those who have also posted on this subject. Thanks again.