Charge Powerbank While Driving

[Pausim]

If you use an XT60 plug into the port that will (allegedly) accept 300w why wouldn’t it accept 300 watts at 12 volt from a dc charge source?

Presumably because the internal circuitry and wiring has a 10A limit, so you only get 120W at 12V and need 30V to get 300W.

 

[eddie]

Presumably because the internal circuitry and wiring has a 10A limit, so you only get 120W at 12V and need 30V to get 300W.

No I suspect the cigar type plug is fused at 10 amp which would be normal.

You never see a cigar type socket rated more than 120w

 

[Tigger-Tim]

No I suspect the cigar type plug is fused at 10 amp which would be normal.

You never see a cigar type socket rated more than 120w

We're not talking about a cigar type plug here. This is an XT60, which is nominally rated at 60A. It's the input to the solar controller in the powerbank.

 

[eddie]

We're not talking about a cigar type plug here. This is an XT60, which is nominally rated at 60A. It's the input to the solar controller in the powerbank.

The other end of the supplied lead is a fag plug!

 

[Ian_H]

Im pretty sure theres a 10A limit built in. I have an anker solix and thought the lead Eddy shows was far too thin. I made one up and connect via the xt60 socket (and a switch and a fuse) to my lithium leisure battery. It charges at 120W. The original lead puts in 100W via the lighter socket.

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[ianto999]

Thank you to all (again). I have decided on my course of action. I am going to VanBitz soon for a tracker. I will just get them to sort me out. No more comment required.

Let us know what they decide to do, it’s a common issue, without one simple solution for all, even within same van (I also have twin) the specs vary a lot each year.

 

[rob1234]

The number of them that expect everything for free in return for a positive review, and get upset when uou laught and tell them to get stuffed

yep this is true one scouser put a vid out ,saying that the poweroak was the best thing since sliced bread ,,so i bought one ,,and its been ok ,for me ,,but 2 weeks later he saying another one was the best ,,cant really trust there opinion

 

[mgibbons]

I'm wondering how I can ensure that the Ecoflow River Pro which I recently purposed for motorhome off-grid use - mainly hairdryer - is only charged when the engine is running off I use one of these attached to the leisure battery? I presume that there is some kind of relay which I can interpose in the 12v wire that would detect the engine running by the increased voltage. Any suggestions? I do not want a manual switch. Cheers.

 

[Pausim]

I'm wondering how I can ensure that the Ecoflow River Pro which I recently purposed for motorhome off-grid use - mainly hairdryer - is only charged when the engine is running off I use one of these attached to the leisure battery? I presume that there is some kind of relay which I can interpose in the 12v wire that would detect the engine running by the increased voltage. Any suggestions? I do not want a manual switch. Cheers.

If you have a smart alternator increased voltage can be problematical. Victron on their new Orion XS B2B use a sophisticated algorithm to detect engine running but I prefer to use the D+ signal.

 

[autorouter]

I'm wondering how I can ensure that the Ecoflow River Pro which I recently purposed for motorhome off-grid use - mainly hairdryer - is only charged when the engine is running off I use one of these attached to the leisure battery? I presume that there is some kind of relay which I can interpose in the 12v wire that would detect the engine running by the increased voltage. Any suggestions? I do not want a manual switch. Cheers.

You need a wire that comes on when the engine is running, to trigger a relay. Many motorhome functions use this system, so usually it is quite easy to find such a wire in a convenient place. There will be a distribution/fusebox for the hab 12V electrics, and there's bound to be a suitable wire there. As Pausim says, the D+ signal, which comes on when the alternator is producing power, is the best. The split charge relay, B2B, fridge 12V supply, and many other devices are wired using the D+ to trigger them.

Or you could just use the ignition to trigger the relay. There's a small difference between the ignition and the D+: when you turn the key, the dash lights come on - that's the ignition. When you start the engine, the alternator light goes out - that's the D+.

In general, voltage-sensitive relays (VSRs) are not a good idea in a motorhome, because voltages rise and fall for all kinds of reasons: solar, mains charging, starter battery trickle-charging etc. Best to use and ignition or D+ trigger.

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[mgibbons]

You need a wire that comes on when the engine is running, to trigger a relay. Many motorhome functions use this system, so usually it is quite easy to find such a wire in a convenient place. There will be a distribution/fusebox for the hab 12V electrics, and there's bound to be a suitable wire there. As Pausim says, the D+ signal, which comes on when the alternator is producing power, is the best. The split charge relay, B2B, fridge 12V supply, and many other devices are wired using the D+ to trigger them.

Or you could just use the ignition to trigger the relay. There's a small difference between the ignition and the D+: when you turn the key, the dash lights come on - that's the ignition. When you start the engine, the alternator light goes out - that's the D+.

In general, voltage-sensitive relays (VSRs) are not a good idea in a motorhome, because voltages rise and fall for all kinds of reasons: solar, mains charging, starter battery trickle-charging etc. Best to use and ignition or D+ trigger.

Thanks the the detailed reply. I shall look into it. Any thoughts on this as an alternative if the D+ cable is inconvenient?

 

[mgibbons]

If you have a smart alternator increased voltage can be problematical. Victron on their new Orion XS B2B use a sophisticated algorithm to detect engine running but I prefer to use the D+ signal.

Cheers