Hi there, I'm waiting on a new Reich pump arriving but I'm just unsure about the electrical connection on the outside. I'll attach a photo but my question really is just, can I just cut the cable on both sides and attach another type of connector or is there some obvious way to disconnect these connectors from the cable that I don't know about? Sorry if it's a daft question!
Changing the water pump - electric supply connection
- Thread starter bruno66
- Start date
pappajohn
LIFE MEMBER
If the pump comes with a different connector then the simplist way is cut the relevant wires ONE PAIR AT A TIME and either through crimp or use a different connector.
Actually, cut whichever two wires go to the old pump and connect to the wires on the new pump.
That way you are leaving everything as it is.... No need to remove the multi connector
Actually, cut whichever two wires go to the old pump and connect to the wires on the new pump.
That way you are leaving everything as it is.... No need to remove the multi connector
pappajohn
LIFE MEMBER
Anything will do... Spade connectors, through crimps, bullet crimps, choc blocks (if you must) as long as they are separated and insulated with tape etc.
If you're changing like for like are you aware that this connector separates? You will need to squeeze the clips on the side and pull apart.
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pappajohn
LIFE MEMBER
Seems an awful lot of wires for a simple pump though.
Probably contains wires for level gauge as well if not other things.
I'd be surprised if the pump isn't on yet another connector.
Yes, I've had them apart but don't know how or even if the wires can be released from either male or female piece? Are they a resumable type of connector?
Sorry that's my bad photography! It is separate from the level gauge it's just I didn't separate them for the photo!
Never gave that a thought!I think they are MateNLok (MNL) connectors, like this.
3 way MATE N LOK FEMALE CONNECTOR ALT/26060-1-09
3 way polarised female MATE "N" LOK connection block suitable for use on automotive/motorcycle wiring systems. Male housing part ref
They can be removed with care. Use a fine screwdriver, small drill bit or even a paper clip to press the barbs in. Then the pin will slide out. There is a special tool to do this, but it is very expensive (nearly £100 last time I looked). With a bit of practice I find I can remove them quite easily with a fine screwdriver.
The pins/receptacles are available separately, and if your vehicle uses them it might be an idea to keep a few handy for just this situation.
Use a crimp tool for UNinsulated terminals to crimp the pin onto the wire. I found the cheaper tool like this is best.
Crimping tool for UNINSULATED terminals ALT/TT70-01
You are buying a crimping tool for UN-INSULATED auto electrical terminals. Tool gives a "fold-in" crimp (See images) The tool has a
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Thank you very much for that reply, I'm afraid I'm completely useless at this sort of stuff, so would a simple connector block do the same job even as a temporary measure to get me through a weekend away with the van? And if so why are those type of connectors not used anyway? Why the need for crimping etc? Sorry if it's basic electronics but as I say I know nothing about the subject! (Wish I'd paid attention at school)I think they are MateNLok (MNL) connectors, like this.
The pins are crimped onto the wires, then slid into the plug/socket. Tiny barbs lock them in place to stop them coming out.3 way MATE N LOK FEMALE CONNECTOR ALT/26060-1-09
3 way polarised female MATE "N" LOK connection block suitable for use on automotive/motorcycle wiring systems. Male housing part refwww.altecautomotive.co.uk
They can be removed with care. Use a fine screwdriver, small drill bit or even a paper clip to press the barbs in. Then the pin will slide out. There is a special tool to do this, but it is very expensive (nearly £100 last time I looked). With a bit of practice I find I can remove them quite easily with a fine screwdriver.
The pins/receptacles are available separately, and if your vehicle uses them it might be an idea to keep a few handy for just this situation.
Use a crimp tool for UNinsulated terminals to crimp the pin onto the wire. I found the cheaper tool like this is best.
I have a 'professional' ratchet type crimper but it seems to distort these pins too much, so this is one instance where the cheap tool is best. At work I can use a special MateNLok crimp tool (expensive) which does the job well, but the cheap tool does as good a job, in two steps.Crimping tool for UNINSULATED terminals ALT/TT70-01
You are buying a crimping tool for UN-INSULATED auto electrical terminals. Tool gives a "fold-in" crimp (See images) The tool has awww.altecautomotive.co.uk
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Yes, it would work. That's what pappajohn meant by 'choc blocks'. They can last forever but have a tendency to work loose over time in a vehicle, due to vibration. If all the joints in a vehicle were choc blocks, you would have continual reliability issues.
Crimp joints are made by putting the stripped wire end inside a hollow metal connector, and squeezing hard to form the connector round the wire. A good crimp is partially cold-welded by the pressure. Crimp joints are used in vehicles, and also in aircraft, for reliability. They are regarded as more reliable than even solder joints in a vibration environment.
You've probably seen 'pre-insulated' crimp spade terminals, red, blue and yellow. The colour indicates the wire thickness it is designed for. Red = thin, blue = medium, yellow = thick. Crimp pliers to squeeze them onto wires are not very expensive and are easy to use.
Thanks very much for the replies, very knowledgeable and informative people you are! I might give it a go now rather than the block.
Can I ask one more question regarding the plumbing side now, the previous pump was an older Reich model and had a separate non return valve which attached via its compression connector. The new pump is the type with integral non return. What do you use to connect the pipe to pump now? The short length of pipe is attached at the tank cover with a rusty jubilee clip which I would like to replace and the old non return connection obviously doesn't fit over the new pump.
Can I ask one more question regarding the plumbing side now, the previous pump was an older Reich model and had a separate non return valve which attached via its compression connector. The new pump is the type with integral non return. What do you use to connect the pipe to pump now? The short length of pipe is attached at the tank cover with a rusty jubilee clip which I would like to replace and the old non return connection obviously doesn't fit over the new pump.
Brilliant.
Old thread resurrection.
Hymer MLT 570 - My Reich Tandem pump just wirrs away, but does not pump anything.
It appears pumps are like spare tyres, you always carry one as you know they will fail at the most inconvenient time.
I've bought a new pump and a spare off Amazon for £53 each
However it just has bare wires as a connection.
Thanks for the advice about not using choc blocks as a long term fix, so I've bought the correct plug and socket from
Link here from Altech (two pairs for £8 incl delivery)
Old thread resurrection.
Hymer MLT 570 - My Reich Tandem pump just wirrs away, but does not pump anything.
It appears pumps are like spare tyres, you always carry one as you know they will fail at the most inconvenient time.
I've bought a new pump and a spare off Amazon for £53 each
However it just has bare wires as a connection.
Thanks for the advice about not using choc blocks as a long term fix, so I've bought the correct plug and socket from
Link here from Altech (two pairs for £8 incl delivery)
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