Can damp be dried out

[Fatboy]

Hi All,

Following on from a previous post, my 12 month old Kontiki has 44% damp in the floor behind the drivers seat. The dealer has said they will repair this by removing the lino, drying and treating the floor and resealing the joints. Im obviously devastated at this as right now I have a 12 month old van with damp so my service history is bad for when I try to sell in future.

My question is can damp really be repaired, will they get these readings back down below 20% or am I now stuck with a damp van floor. Another thing with the new swifts, no readings were taken at all on the walls or roof. They say it cant get damp because of the construction, is this right?

I am at the point where I am going to get an independent damp report done in case this has to go further, as the repair has yet to be approved.

 

[CazPaul]

I would make sure you take readings all over
Have you a booklet/manual of the type of construction?

 

[Fatboy]

I would make sure you take readings all over
Have you a booklet/manual of the type of construction?

 

[CazPaul]

View attachment 825859

I bet the sales talk before buying was none of it could get damp

I remember the Elddis SOLID construction, not quite how they hoped.

How has the floor got damp do they know?

 

[Fatboy]

I bet the sales talk before buying was none of it could get damp

I remember the Elddis SOLID construction, not quite how they hoped.

How has the floor got damp do they know?

So it looks like it’s not sealed behind the drivers side wheel arch. It’s going in for repair but I’m concerned their repair and what I want are two divert things. I’ve got a dehumidifier going and heating the van right now in the hope of brining the levels down a touch

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[LithiumConvert]

My question is can damp really be repaired,

Many years (decades) ago, we had a serious damp problem wih a CI.

It took two big repairs (one under warranty) to get it fixed, but we had many years of dry motorhome travel afterwards.

 

[Stag man]

You can get a moisture meter or even better (as you suggest) an independent report
Looking at the spec for your flooring, I would question whether it can be fully dried, it’s the Styrofoam core which concerns me.
Lifting Lino is not going to fix anything IMHO

 

[Fatboy]

You can get a moisture meter or even better (as you suggest) an independent report
Looking at the spec for your flooring, I would question whether it can be fully dried, it’s the Styrofoam core which concerns me.
Lifting Lino is not going to fix anything IMHO

So I have a good damp meter Extec 257 which is pinless but my word against swift is worthless so I thought an dependant report was probably the way to go. I agree with you a repair is lip service then I’m left with a sealed damp floor. My service history now concerns me too that I have a damp van.

 

[HugoBNB]

Yes, moisture can be dried out. Time and/or a dehumidifier will do the job, but only if the cause of the ingress is resolved. The problem is how long the materials were damp in the first instance. Delamination, rot, corrosion are the long term worries. I would suggest that investing in an independent survey and report that assesses the immediate problem and highlights the potential long-term problems would be a good move.
Good luck, I hope you get sorted quickly.

 

[CazPaul]

You can get a moisture meter or even better (as you suggest) an independent report
Looking at the spec for your flooring, I would question whether it can be fully dried, it’s the Styrofoam core which concerns me.
Lifting Lino is not going to fix anything IMHO

Surely it’s the timber upper floor that’s caused the problem not the styrofoam?

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[VXman]

I had damp in my wall and the dealer local to me (Heart of England Motorhomes) said once it's in you cannot get it out. He said it's a big job requiring cutting the section out from the inside and repairing it. He wouldn't do it under warranty as I hadn't bought it from them.

Took it to Camper UK who did do it under warranty. They dried it out and resealed the water inlet and TV outlet that was assumed to be the problem.

So who's correct?

 

[Fatboy]

I had damp in my wall and the dealer local to me (Heart of England Motorhomes) said once it's in you cannot get it out. He said it's a big job requiring cutting the section out from the inside and repairing it. He wouldn't do it under warranty as I hadn't bought it from them.

Took it to Camper UK who did do it under warranty. They dried it out and resealed the water inlet and TV outlet that was assumed to be the problem.

So who's correct?

That’s my worry, a new camper and my hab checks say damp, I’m scared I’ll never get that back to below 20%

 

[Lenny HB]

Just taking the vinyl up and drying it will do bugger all.
At the least the top ply layer of the floor needs removing to inspect the water damage and see if it needs further work.

Don't let them fob you off.

 

[VXman]

That’s my worry, a new camper and my hab checks say damp, I’m scared I’ll never get that back to below 20%

Well, after the repair job Camper UK issued me a new damp report with all the readings below 15%. the affected area did have 40%. However, do I believe them???

 

[Fatboy]

Well, after the repair job Camper UK issued me a new damp report with all the readings below 15%. the affected area did have 40%. However, do I believe them???

Did you check yourself?

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[Bramidan]

I would have thought unless everything is stripped out and the damp parts exposed that damp will take an age to dry out and will continue to rot.
If it’s completely sealed how is it supposed to dry out?

 

[HugoBNB]

That’s my worry, a new camper and my hab checks say damp, I’m scared I’ll never get that back to below 20%

It will certainly fall below 20% if there is no more moisture topping it up. But, your concerns should be as follows IMHO;

Why/how did it pass QA when it left the factory?

How long has it actually been damp? From what you have described, that could have been from the first time it was out in wet weather.

As LennyHB said above. They must remove the vinyl flooring as, if they do not, this willl prolong the drying-out, and compound any consequential damage to surrounding surfaces, fixings, corrosion-proofing. All of which may not be apparent now.

If they do effect a repair, I would strongly recommend that you make it a condition of you agreeing to it, that they accept a defects period on the repaired section that is at least, equal to the overall warranty on the habitation that came with the MH when you bought it. Furthermore, that for the first, say 24-months, that the repair is annually independently inspected at their cost.

Top and bottom of this from what you have described, is that the MH was may not have been fit for purpose when it left the factory.

I think it would be prudent to document it all and involve the NCC. At the end of the day, it is your hard earned money that paid for it and you should expect, whilst nothing is ever 100% perfect, for it acceptably close.

I hope you get it sorted soon.

Best wishes.

 

[Portland]

I would be very careful about using to much localised heat and a dehumidifier as it could cause surface drying and shrinkage which could split the surface panels

 

[IRHP]

So it looks like it’s not sealed behind the drivers side wheel arch. It’s going in for repair but I’m concerned their repair and what I want are two divert things. I’ve got a dehumidifier going and heating the van right now in the hope of brining the levels down a touch

Thats an odd one, that sounds like it would be part of the original base vehicle. Surprised they aren't blaming the manufacturer.

 

[Fatboy]

Thats an odd one, that sounds like it would be part of the original base vehicle. Surprised they aren't blaming the manufacturer.

Been under the van today and everything looks sealed, is it possible the floor was damp during manufacture?

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[Stag man]

It might look ok/sealed but is it?
Water has a way of seeping thro minute cracks (capillary action)
To be sure, a mechanic with a sealant gun will stop any more ingress but your floor section is damp.
Eventually it might look/test dry on the surface but is that the case internally?

 

[HKF]

Just to put the cat amongst the pigeons, when we had problems with water ingress n our ceiling we took our MH to a couple of Benimar dealers. One of them, who ultimately said they weren't able to do the work needed because it was too big a job (?), did a damp test while we were there, with a pinned tester. When we were driving home, I said to my husband, "Did you see how he put his finger on the pin when he tested the front bit?" He said yes, he'd seen it. In our case, I suspect he'd done that to increase the reading and, therefore, 'prove' it was too big a job for them. However, it left me wondering how many other tests are done like this to get work that doesn't actually need doing. After all, it's easy to do without the customer realising, even if you're there when the test is done.

 

[Fatboy]

Just to put the cat amongst the pigeons, when we had problems with water ingress n our ceiling we took our MH to a couple of Benimar dealers. One of them, who ultimately said they weren't able to do the work needed because it was too big a job (?), did a damp test while we were there, with a pinned tester. When we were driving home, I said to my husband, "Did you see how he put his finger on the pin when he tested the front bit?" He said yes, he'd seen it. In our case, I suspect he'd done that to increase the reading and, therefore, 'prove' it was too big a job for them. However, it left me wondering how many other tests are done like this to get work that doesn't actually need doing. After all, it's easy to do without the customer realising, even if you're there when the test is done.

I have an Extec 0257 meter which although not as good as the protimeter the dealers use it is a good piece of kit. It’s pinless and goes to a depth of around 20mm. I’m in the process of drying it using a dehumidifier and warming the hab area and it’s improving. Strangely enough measuring from under the van I’m picking up good readings so it’s definitely the ply under the Lino that’s damp.

 

[VXman]

Did you check yourself?

I don't have a damp meter.

 

[rosalan]

After the major problems Swift had a few years ago with damp penetrating the floors and even earlier with leaky Kontiki's, I am astounded that the problem has not fully been knocked on the head. To be sure it can happen to any individual van built by falable humans but I am begining to wonder if it is a more deeprooted design fault where a cuboid box, twisted and bounced on the road, begins to develop hairline faults in its integrity.

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[Petroleumblownapart]

I had damp in my wall and the dealer local to me (Heart of England Motorhomes) said once it's in you cannot get it out. He said it's a big job requiring cutting the section out from the inside and repairing it. He wouldn't do it under warranty as I hadn't bought it from them.

Took it to Camper UK who did do it under warranty. They dried it out and resealed the water inlet and TV outlet that was assumed to be the problem.

So who's correct?

I use Camper UK and WILL NOT go anywhere else. Yes it always cost more than I want it to but their service guys are top notch in my experience.

 

[Bleau’s]

If i put my protimeter across my fingers it always shows 22 to 24 % I kept it when i finished as a caravan trader beware of those which make a noise they can easily be frauded by putting them across fingers in a cupboard to pretend it is damp.

 

[Fatboy]

If i put my protimeter across my fingers it always shows 22 to 24 % I kept it when i finished as a caravan trader beware of those which make a noise they can easily be frauded by putting them across fingers in a cupboard to pretend it is damp.

Agree but nothing to gain with this as I’m not selling it. Readings were taken by the dealer and my meter backed them up. The good news is they appear to be improving now I’m drying the area out with heating the van and airing the area

 

[Lenny HB]

As LennyHB said above. They must remove the vinyl flooring

I said you need to remove the top ply layer of the floor.

I think it would be prudent to document it all and involve the NCC.

Fat lot of good that will do NCC is funded and run by manufacturers & dealers.

 

[HugoBNB]

I said you need to remove the top ply layer of the floor.

Fat lot of good that will do NCC is funded and run by manufacturers & dealers.

I stand corrected having reread your post on the plywood. If it has been damp for a prolonged period, the plywood has probably already delaminated.

There is not a lot of hope for us all when we have a build problem then....

Safe travels