Blooming Flippin Fiats

[pappajohn]

Being a bit of a bodger, that Allen key would get a suitable screwdriver blade hammered in the gap.

 

[Dunslow]

Silver-Fox is partly right but rarely will someone snap a large stud by hand but it has been known with help of an air gun.

Torque setting are a combination of, getting the correct tightness and not stretching the bolt too far. Most people do not realise that every time one torques a wheelnut to its proper extent, it also stretches the stud a little bit further and weakens it. this is why wheel-studs on older vehicles, should be changed but rarely are.

And there was me thinking I remembered being taught that correct torque applied stretched a bolt within it's elastic state, and not so far into it's plastic state thereby stretching a stud a little bit further each time.

 

[L' Hobo]

And there was me thinking I remembered being taught that correct torque applied stretched a bolt within it's elastic state, and not so far into it's plastic state thereby stretching a stud a little bit further each time.

You might be right, when I served my naval apprenticeship the word plastic had not been invented but, in my mind is the question, how many times can one stretch those tread edges before they flatten and you have a smooth thread?

 

[Northernraider]

Dinnae panic...a breaker bar and the correct hex key will remove it no problem.

 

[Tea Bag]

You might be right, when I served my naval apprenticeship the word plastic had not been invented

Hi L'Hobo.
" Oh for the days when Ships were wood and Men were Steel " ( Sorry......... I have drunk tonight and tomorrow nights beer ration and could NOT resist it. ) Fair play to you.
Tea Bag

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[PP Bear]

Hi L'Hobo.
" Oh for the days when Ships were wood and Men were Steel " ( Sorry......... I have drunk tonight and tomorrow nights beer ration and could NOT resist it. ) Fair play to you.
Tea Bag

Bit of rum, sodemy and the lash never hurt a fly, now keelhauling was another matter. ️

 

[Dunslow]

Only as an interpretation of what I perceived I was being told (I didn't listen that much),rather than "having a go".
When I did mine, the determined torque figure (by the manufacturer, not us) was to prevent damage to the fastener and was a calculation of the elastic limit, that the thread form was then determined so it could apply said torque/ stretch without stud / bolt , nut damage. I.E. metric coarse, metric fine, whit, unc, unf. The best description of a thread is, imagine unrolling the thread, from end of bolt, towards the head. You've just made a ramp. coarse thread=steep ramp, fine thread= shallow ramp. now apply the torque force as a pushing force to the end of the ramps (wedges). the shallower ramp will hold tighter with the same effort, but without deforming the face of the wedge.

Dinnae panic...a breaker bar and the correct hex key will remove it no problem.

And a 6' scaffold tube (to undo only, of course)

 

[L' Hobo]

Only as an interpretation of what I perceived I was being told (I didn't listen that much),rather than "having a go".
When I did mine, the determined torque figure (by the manufacturer, not us) was to prevent damage to the fastener and was a calculation of the elastic limit, that the thread form was then determined so it could apply said torque/ stretch without stud / bolt , nut damage. I.E. metric coarse, metric fine, whit, unc, unf. The best description of a thread is, imagine unrolling the thread, from end of bolt, towards the head. You've just made a ramp. coarse thread=steep ramp, fine thread= shallow ramp. now apply the torque force as a pushing force to the end of the ramps (wedges). the shallower ramp will hold tighter with the same effort, but without deforming the face of the wedge.

And a 6' scaffold tube (to undo only, of course)

interesting theory, we didn't do much 'theory' mostly practical tasks like stripping an engine down, blueing/scrapping the white metal bearing and putting it all back together again + seeing how the feed pumps/donkey boilers etc. worked.

The problem I found with the 6' scaffold tube was, when undoing the studs on a flat floor, there wasn't much movement to be had under the van floor because the studs are on the back of the brakes and the slack in the components of the metre long breaker bar and scaffold pole, it didn't leave too much space for a good purchase.
Better if it's done over a pit or ramp if you can find one.

 

[Northernraider]

Only as an interpretation of what I perceived I was being told (I didn't listen that much),rather than "having a go".
When I did mine, the determined torque figure (by the manufacturer, not us) was to prevent damage to the fastener and was a calculation of the elastic limit, that the thread form was then determined so it could apply said torque/ stretch without stud / bolt , nut damage. I.E. metric coarse, metric fine, whit, unc, unf. The best description of a thread is, imagine unrolling the thread, from end of bolt, towards the head. You've just made a ramp. coarse thread=steep ramp, fine thread= shallow ramp. now apply the torque force as a pushing force to the end of the ramps (wedges). the shallower ramp will hold tighter with the same effort, but without deforming the face of the wedge.

And a 6' scaffold tube (to undo only, of course)

Ach mine came off nae bother. If you want to know tight try taking the wheel nuts of a mercedes vario. That's back breaking

 

[Dunslow]

The problem I found with the 6' scaffold tube was, when undoing the studs on a flat floor, there wasn't much movement to be had under the van floor because the studs are on the back of the brakes and the slack in the components of the metre long breaker bar and scaffold pole, it didn't leave too much space for a good purchase.

Turn the hubs left / right accordingly. loads of room.
(I did my apprenticeship as a boilermaker before joining the Army)

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[Dunslow]

If you want to know tight try taking the wheel nuts of a mercedes vario. That's back breaking

Don't they have rh and lh threads Tam?. Were you going the right direction?

 

[Northernraider]

Don't they have rh and lh threads Tam?. Were you going the right direction?

I was but they are seriously tight.

 

[Dutch 68]

Ach mine came off nae bother. If you want to know tight try taking the wheel nuts of a mercedes vario. That's back breaking

Try the wheel nut on Ducati single sided swingarm, it’s legendary

 

[L' Hobo]

Turn the hubs left / right accordingly. loads of room.

On mine, that part of the 'hub' was rigid with the brake components bolted to it, maybe yours is different?

 

[bobnick]

What's all the fuss about
Surely a quirt or 2 of WD will sort it, sorts everything else out..........................even my bad back

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[L' Hobo]

The problem I found with the 6' scaffold tube was, when undoing the studs on a flat floor, there wasn't much movement to be had under the van floor because the studs are on the back of the brakes and the slack in the components of the metre long breaker bar and scaffold pole, it didn't leave too much space for a good purchase.
Better if it's done over a pit or ramp if you can find one.

Sorry, perhaps I should have pointed out that the above refers to the original OP's Thread and not wheelnuts.

 

[jockaneezer]

I've got one of those cheapy pneumatic chisels and have ground the pointed end flat on the "spike" type round chisel. A quick brrrrt down inside the head of that hex bolt will rattle it's fillings and loosen it off.
I always use it on brake/suspension jobs, it's great for loosening seized brake nipples too.
Another plus is I've also found I haven't melted any more cv bellows and ball joint rubbers since I swapped to the chisel from the oxy/propane torch !

 

[PP Bear]

So here we go, proper man porn….don’t look if your squeamish in any way….

 

[PP Bear]

So, used my sexy new 14mm hex drive and wiped off the front calliper carrier brackets, unboxed the new front discs and…….they‘ve supplied the wrong ones , so had to order replacements and went on to fit the new ones and the new pads on the rear and then changed the brake and clutch fluid, so now all back on the road and ready for the off.

I really like how easy it is to bleed the clutch, easy peasy, which makes a real change.

 

[L' Hobo]

So, used my sexy new 14mm hex drive and wiped off the front calliper carrier brackets, unboxed the new front discs and…….they‘ve supplied the wrong ones , so had to order replacements and went on to fit the new ones and the new pads on the rear and then changed the brake and clutch fluid, so now all back on the road and ready for the off.

I really like how easy it is to bleed the clutch, easy peasy, which makes a real change.

Your van must have the 290 chassis because you certainly wouldn't say that if you had a X250. You have to remove the air filter and pipes before you can even start.
Nice to know the have made it easier although I still wonder why it's not included in any of the service schedules?

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[Landy Andy]

So here we go, proper man porn….don’t look if your squeamish in any way….
View attachment 661424

View attachment 661426

“European Style”

What does that mean?? Metric??

 

[PP Bear]

“European Style”

What does that mean?? Metric??

All metric

Your van must have the 290 chassis because you certainly wouldn't say that if you had a X250. You have to remove the air filter and pipes before you can even start.
Nice to know the have made it easier although I still wonder why it's not included in any of the service schedules?

Mines a 2005 2.8JTD. Had to remove airfilter pipe and wiggle to get access, with feel and hardly any vision, but then surprisingly easy.

 

[uzsnowdrop]

Your van must have the 290 chassis because you certainly wouldn't say that if you had a X250. You have to remove the air filter and pipes before you can even start.
Nice to know the have made it easier although I still wonder why it's not included in any of the service schedules?

Nobby question, how do you easily tell what type of chassis you’ve got x250 etc?? Mate wants to buy from classified but we are both scratching our respective heads….

 

[L' Hobo]

Nobby question, how do you easily tell what type of chassis you’ve got x250 etc?? Mate wants to buy from classified but we are both scratching our respective heads….

Google Wikipedia Fiat Ducato, that has all dates and relevant details.

 

[Landy Andy]

Nobby question, how do you easily tell what type of chassis you’ve got x250 etc?? Mate wants to buy from classified but we are both scratching our respective heads….

By what year it is.

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[uzsnowdrop]

By what year it is.

Thanks landy andy, my mates on it